By Pat Signorino & Shane Craddock
I picked up some K-Sport Coilovers from voiceofid on the MR2OC Forums. They have threaded tubes that allow you to raise or lower the car without losing spring/strut travel. The Rebound/Damping adjustments are tied together, but work very well (I recently rode in another MR2 with these Coilovers). The kit is total quality, it’s just sad to have to get them dirty.
Threaded lower section allowing you to lower the car and keep your spring/strut travel normal.
Height with Suspension Technique Springs and KYB AGX struts.
Rear engine side panel screw #1.
… and #2.
Here are all the things to remove. From left to right, Swaybar endlink lower section. 2 knuckle bolts. Brake line attachment to the strut body.
Using a flathead screwdriver and hammer, pop out the retaining clip (I don’t have them on mine anymore, so I can’t show a pic). If you’ve never removed the brake lines before, use a dremel, and cut a small break into the middle here. Do not cut into the brake line.
Bend the tab down, and remove the line.
Disconnect the Swaybar Endlink using an Alen wrench and 14mm wrench.
Remove the two 19mm knuckle bolts/nuts (not pictured).
Unbolt the 3 upper bolts, and remove the rear suspension from the car. It can be tricky, I always pull the bottom out on the rear side of the car (as opposed to pulling it to the front first).
Measure the length of the stock suspenion from the hole on the swaybar endlink tab to the end of the strut. Set the K-Sport rotating endlink tab to the same distance, and lightly lock it down with the two alan screws. Do not totally tighten them yet as you may need to adjust it when it’s in the car. Mine sits towards the outside of the car about 1/4 of an inch rather than straight towards the rear like stock.
Pop the new suspension up through the hole. On my car, I had to slightly drill out the hole that is furthermost to the outside of the car.
Time to pop the lower knuckle into position.
I used a small jack underneath the balljoint to raise the lower carrier assembly into place.
Lock down the knuckle bolts. Be sure to use one of the black brake line tabs and install it on the lower bolt if you need it. If you use a crashbolt, place it in the upper section, and pull the top of the disc towards you while tightening down the knuckle bolts. A 2nd person helps with this step.
Set the rotating swaybar tab secion and make sure it has clearance from the body of the car, but don’t give it too much room otherwise you’ll mess up the geometry of the setup, and it can also touch the tire if too far out.
Install the stock rear endlink.
I used a piece of wood and jack to raise the swaybar into position. Don’t move it too much or you could damage the swaybar attatchment points.
Rear all done.
Moving on to the front. Undo the knuckle bolts, then the swaybar endlink. Remove the brakeline from the strut body the same way you did the rear one.
Remove the 4 top bolts, and pull the suspension out of the car. The front is much easier to remove than the rear.
Setup the front suspension this way. I moved the center over one slot to the inside of the car, then used a medium crashbolt to pull the wheel out at the top to give a decent negative camber.
Install the K-Sport front suspenion, and loosely tighten up the top bolts. Pop in the knuckle bolts (remember to install the brake line connector to the bottom bolt), and tighten them down (if using a crash bolt, pull the top of the disc towards you as you tighten). Using a screwdriver and a hammer, tighten the lower black collar.
Install the brake line and clip or zip tie it down.
Install the K-Sport front endlink, and lock it down after adjusting the length.
Front complete. This is the height I got by leaving the lower rotating section flush with the strut housing. I should have lowered it about an inch rather than keeping it flush.