For the winter you are going to want a dedicated set of snow tires. The reason for this is a summer compound will harden up like a rock in the cold. For the most part you can still drive in the cold on a summer tire so long as you take it slow and don’t do anything crazy. But then take into account summer tires are also meant for mostly dry grip. The tread pattern will at most be designed to take away water during a summer shower. However anything that isn’t a liquid will just fill up the tread and leave you with slicks. You also cannot run just two winter tires like people so often do. Especially with a summer tire up front the back end will have plenty of grip buy the front will not want to turn or stick to the road. Even in the dry the car will be all over the place even in a straight line. The same goes for the all-season front/ winter tire rear combo. It is dangerous to yourself and others on the road.

Now that you know WHY you need a winter tire let’s talk about what you are going to mount them on. This will save you money in the long run because you will get on average at least 2 seasons out of your winter tires. If you didn’t get a second set of wheels you would be mounting and remounting tires each spring and fall. A set of 15” steel wheels will run you about $120 on tirerack.com. However, to get steel wheels for an “MR2” off of tire rack you have to trick the system a little. When selecting a tire/wheel package you are going to have to enter 2005 Scion XB instead of 200x Toyota MR2. If you don’t they don’t offer steel wheels for the MR2. The scion has the same bolt pattern and has an offset that will fit the MR2 just fine and many (including myself) have used them. Also for anyone interested the actual size of the 2005 scion XB steel wheels are 15×6 with a bolt pattern of 4×100 and a +40 offset.

Before you select which tire you have yet another thing to consider. What size are you going to buy? Now most of us know that in the summer at least a wider tire is going to provide more traction and make you less likely to slide. At the same time, for better or worse a lot of people believe that having a smaller tire up front then in the back will make the car less prone to oversteer. Without thinking too much about it, it would appear the same logic would apply to a tire in the snow. Greater contact patch means more room for the tire to grip right? Well, not quite. You see when you are driving along in a car on the snow the tires are trying desperately to sink into the snow to get grip. They need pressure pushing them down into the snow before they can get any significant traction. If you were to run a really wide tire in the snow you would just float on top of the snow and slide all over. If you get a narrow tire it will dig in and you will be able to get the grip needed to stay on the road. Now about that stagger, applying that principle to your traditional stagger of having a smaller tire in the front would actually be, in a sense, a REVERSE stagger. Thus, instead of helping to control the oversteer it would promote it! In theory you could run a larger tire in front and smaller in the rear but that wouldn’t be practical for those days when there wasn’t any snow on the road and you were traveling at higher speeds. To compromise it would be best to just run the same size all around. It still leaves the issue of what size you are going to choose. For that you have to analyze what conditions you feel you will facing the most. If it is mostly or completely snow a 185/55/15 will do just fine. It will dig in and give you plenty of grip when the white stuff starts flying. If you are worried about seeing ice a 195/50/15 might be a better choice. The theory behind this being ice is more like normal pavement in that a larger contact patch is better since you are not sinking into the ice itself. This theory was developed by myself and another member (WIWhite87) a while back and is just something we came up with in our heads. There is no real scientific backing behind it. However it was mentioned by Tem that in Finland they run as narrow of a tire as possible (Something like a 155mm width) and have no issues on Ice. This could mean that a narrower tire actually is beneficial on the ice as well. The idea that backs this theory is it’s not so much the ice that is slick it’s the very thin layer of water that forms between your tire and ice that make things slick. This is why a siped tire does so well on the ice. It wicks away the water so the tire is able to come in full contact with the ice instead of riding on that very thin layer of water. It is hard to tell which theory is correct but in the end if you are only choosing between a tire that is 185mm wide and 195mm wide you are probably not going to see any major differences. The tire itself will make more of a difference in the end.

Note: A 185/60/15 or a 195/55/15 can be substituted in as well if the other two are not readily available. They will however make your speedometer read a little slow. The 185/60/15 will read 2.9% slow while the 195/55/15 will read 1.6% slow.

We move onto one of the final decisions you will have to make and that is what type of tire you will be buying. First off let me start by saying you should always buy a “studless ice and snow” tire and not a “performance” winter tire. The reason for this is the “performance” winter will sacrifice snow and ice grip for handling and braking. Not something you want to do on a MR2, when you are in the snow in an MR2 you just want to get through it. The reason I don’t bring up studded tires is IMO they are being surpassed by studless tires. A test done by tirerack shows that for the most part studless tires are as good or better then studded tires on ice. This may be hard to believe but for the most part the reason you can’t get grip on ice is because of a thin layer of water that builds up under your tires. What a studless tire does is it takes the 5 or so sipes that are cut into each tread block and take away that thin layer of water. A studded tire relied upon little metal studs that were inserted into little holes and they would grip the ice surface. The problem is they are loud, hinder braking performance, dry traction suffers, they also hinder snow performance, and they harm the road surface. (Note: if you do end up choosing a studded tire for whatever reason you must insert the studs before using the tire. You cannot insert studs into a tire after it has been used.)

Finally we move onto the detail of which tire to buy. There are many choices out there but I will just mention the few are have gotten the best reviews and seem to hold the most promise for our little car. I’ll start off with the Bridgestone blizzak line of tires since that is what I have experience with. At this current point in time there are two blizzaks to chose from, the now older WS-50 and the new as of this year WS-60. I own a set of the WS-50s (195/55/15) and love them. They are great in the snow and ice. I’ve traveled through snow that was at least 6 inches deep on my driveway and have seen others with snow packed in the grill because it was so deep when they went through it with these tires. You can still find them at tirerack and other tire dealers but they are being phased out (which does mean cheaper pricing) for the WS-60. From what I have read so far the WS-60 is everything the WS-50 was but better. No one has run this tire on the MR2 as of yet but from the testing done by tirerack it can be seen it should be a winner. There is one catch to the blizzak line; the siping (the little grooves that allow the tire to grip so well on snow and ice) only goes through about 60% of the tread. After that it is just a normal winter compound. The other tires I will mention have the siping all the way through. But keep in mind you won’t want to run a tire all the way down to the wear bars in the snow or you will more than likely end up in the ditch. As for the competition you have the Michelin X-ice which is a strong competitor. It provides a little better traction in the deep stuff then the blizzaks but isn’t quite as good in the light snow and ice. It is debatable how much of a difference this really is though. There is also the Nokian Hakkapeliitta which is harder to find. Not as many people run this tire but it is still a solid tire especially for the snow. I have heard the X-ice and blizzaks are better in the ice though YMMV. EDIT: Here is a test done by tirerack that includes the X-ice and WS-60 (which IMO are the two best choices once the WS-50 is gone completely). It also has a winterforce studdable snow tire and a dunlop winter tire as well. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/…ay.jsp?ttid=94 I would also like to note that the last two years Bridgestone has had a deal where you can get 50 dollars back on their blizzak line of winter tires if you purchase them around mid November if I recall correctly. Of course the WS-50 will most likely not be included in this as it is on closeout status and is not being produced anymore.

In the end it all depends upon your needs but no matter what if you need to drive the MR2 in the winter a set of winter tires is a must. I am not sure if I will be buying another set of winter tires once these are worn out or not. The salt and ever present chance of someone smashing into the MR2 will surely take their toll in the end. Winter tires also have a way of taking the fun out of the car; they have soft sidewalls with very little grip so they allow for 0 twisties what so ever. Even if you did take them out for a spirited ride (which would be suicidal) you would quickly wear out the tires which are made of a very soft compound. In the end however running the car in the winter is an experience everyone should have at least once in their life. It can really teach you a lot about this car that you can use for the summer and can lead to some fun times in the snow.

I just thought I would include a couple of threads down here to give you guys an idea of how good winter tires really are on this car.

This thread has some pictures and movies of owners driving in the snow with the Blizzak WS-50

Here’s another thread that’s got a few talking about the new Blizzak WS-60

Michelin has just released a new tire called the Xi-2. There is very little information on it right now but I created this thread about it. http://spyderchat.com/forums/index.php?sho…p;#entry4817515

Also the WS-50 is all but dead right now with tirerack being sold out of the top two sizes for a 15 inch wheel on the spyder. I will update this thread more as we come closer to the winter driving season. I will also be buying a set of winter tires this fall so rest assured I will be staying on top of anything new that is out there.

The Golden Rules

Check air pressures in all tyres regularly.
It is preferable that this check be made weekly, when tyres are cold, and using a gauge known to be accurate.

Avoid hard braking and sudden acceleration.
Tyres may wear quickly if consistently subjected to hard braking or rapid acceleration. Adopting a conservative driving style will maximise tyre life.

Use care when parking to avoid tyre damage.
Many impact fractures occur in the sidewall area of the tyre. rather than the tread.
Careful parking will reduce damage to tyre sidewalls that can occur through contact with kerbs.

Ensure that tyres have more than 1.6mm of tread.
Most new tyres have about 8-9 mm of tread pattern when manufactured but when the tread wears down to less that 1.6mm, the tyre may be unsafe to use in wet conditions and should be replaced as soon as possible. Tyres have Tread Wear indicators in their tread pattern which show as lines across the tread when reduced to 1.6mm… this is also the legal limit, if your tyres are below 1.6mm you are breaking the law.

Do not use sealants to repair punctures.
After a puncture, tyres should be inspected internally to assess what damage has occurred, and whether the tyre sill complies with minimum safety standards.

While sealants may be acceptable as a temporary emergency measure after a puncture has occurred, they often do not fully inflate the tyre and accordingly the vehicle should be driven and reduced speeds until the tyre can be changed or permanently repaired. Sealants should not be used as preventative measures. the use of sealants may invalidate tyre warranties.

Understanding Tyre markings

Tyres have a code system moulded into their sidewall which allows you to understand their technical capabilities.

This code provides information on the tyre’s construction (e.g. radial), its size, its load-carrying capacity and its speed rating.

For example, the code on a common fitment for cars is:

205/65R15 95H

205 – indicates the nominal section width of the tyre in millimeters (205mm).

65 – indicates its aspect ratio, a comparison of the tyre’s section height with its section width (65 indicates the height is 65% of its width).

R - indicates radial ply construction.

15 - indicates the nominal diameter of the wheel rim (15 inches)

95H - is a symbol indicating the maximum load capacity and speed at which the tyre can be safely operated, subject to the tyre being in sound condition, correctly fitted, and with recommended inflation pressures (95 represents a maximum load of 690kg per tyre; H represents a maximum speed of 130mp/h).

Tyre speed symbols..

N – 87mph
P – 93mph
Q – 99mph
R – 106mph
S – 113mph
T – 118mph
H – 130mph
V – 149mph
W – 168mph
Y – 189mph
ZR – 149mph

Tyre load ratings..

The maximum weight of the vehicle shouldn’t be more than the weight the tyres are designed to carry.

Tyres with a load rating code of 91 (615KG) shouldn’t be fitted to a vehicle that weighs in excess of 2460KG.. 616 x 4 = 2460.

Tyre rotation

Tyre rotation is vital to achieving even tread wear and long tread life. Rotation is necessary because of the uneven wear characteristics of each wheel position on the vehicle. A good example is Front Wheel Drive vehicles which places braking, steering and driving forces on the front axle tyres. Rear axle tyres only receive braking forces resulting in a much faster wear rate for the front axle tyres. Tyre rotation for these vehicles therefore becomes very important for optimum tyre life.

Tyre rotation should be undertaken every 5,000 to 8,000 kilometres:
EVEN IF THERE IS NO SIGN OF UNEVEN WEAR
Cross Rotation

The “Cross Pattern” provides the best results and can be performed on any Front or Rear Wheel Drive vehicle equipped with 4 non-unidirectional tyres. (Unidirectional tyres must be rotated front to rear only.)

NOTE: Free rolling axle tyres are crossed and installed to the drive axle, while the drive axle tyres are brought straight to the free rolling axle (without crossing).

Vehicles equipped with permanent 4-Wheel Drive and those with “on Command” 4-Wheel Drive and driven mainly in 4-Wheel mode, are best suited to a four tyre cross rotation. With this pattern, tyres from both axles are crossed and installed on the opposing axle.
Straight Rotation

Straight Rotation was developed in the early years of radial tyres. This rotation method simply replaces the front to rear and rear to front.
5 Tyre Rotation

If the vehicle owner has a regular tyre as a spare tyre and wishes to include it in the tyre rotation process, the proper procedure is to use the appropriate rotation pattern shown for 4 Tyre Rotation, BUT insert the spare in the right rear position. Place the tyre which would have gone to the right rear in the trunk as the new spare.

Note: Never include a temporary spare tyre in the rotation.

IMPORTANT: Unidirectional treads are designed to perform in the direction denoted on the tyre sidewall only. They must always be rotated front to rear – despite the type of vehicle they are installed on – so the direction of the revolution does not change.

NOTE: MR2 Roadsters have different sized tyres front and rear, and as such can’t be rotated from front to rear.
Of course you all know this fact

Temporary Spares

Temporary use spare tyres or space savers are specially constructed spare tyre and rim combinations provided by vehicle manufacturers as standard equipment in many vehicles.

These spares are lighter and smaller than those which you normally see fitted to motor cars.

Temporary use spare tyres are generally recognizable by their unusual design (yellow rim) and compact size.

Some notes to remember when using a Temporary Spare

1. Fit only the temporary use spare tyres provided by the vehicle manufacturer for your vehicle model. (Replacement tyres offered by reputable tyre companies may also be used provided they match the original equipment specifications.)

2. Temporary use spare tyres are not designed to travel long distances. If you are unsure of the condition of the space saver spare tyre, check it before driving the car.

3. Do not attempt to fit a temporary use spare tyre to any other rim.

4. Use the temporary use spare tyre strictly in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions.

5. Carefully observe the manufacturer’s recommendations for any limits on speed, tyre pressure, load and safe travel distance. Note inflation pressure will not be the same for the temporary spare as the primary tyre. This information can be found either on a placard near the spare tyre or in the vehicle handbook.

Aspect ratios.

Tyre profiles have changed considerably in recent years because of changes in vehicle styling and demand for increased vehicle performance. Today’s tyres have a squat appearance, rather than the tall, narrow look of yesteryear. The aspect ratio is a comparison of the tyre’s section height with its section width (45 indicates the height is 45% of its width).

Upgrade to low profile tyres.

An upgrade to a tyre with a lower profile size than the original will generally improve the vehicle’s steering response, handling characteristics and appearance. There are options available to change the rim width and diameter, which will maintain similar specifications to the original tyre fitment. For more information, talk to your local tyre centre to ensure the upgrade is suitable for your vehicle.

NOTE: When fitting new replacement tyres and/or wheels, ensure any alternative to the original tyre and wheel fitment complies with relevant legislation, and that tyre load and speed ratings equal or exceed the minimum allowed for that vehicle in your state.

Inflation pressure.

It is air that carries the total load of the vehicle and passengers, so correct inflation pressure is essential to ensure the integrity of the tyre and the safe handling of the car.

Pressures should be checked regularly, preferably weekly, when tyres are cold. Never reduce air pressure when tyres are hot from driving because it is normal for pressures to increase while tyres are hot. After checking pressures, ensure that valve caps are replaced as these are the primary seal. Use only sealing-type valve caps.

Over inflation reduces the ability of the tyre to absorb road shocks, resulting in a much harsher ride. In fact, excessive over inflation may lead to impact fracture, or other casing failures. Over inflation will also cause excessive wear of the centre of the tyre. This will result in premature removal of the tyre. Check the tyre placard for recommended inflation pressures.

Under inflation is a frequent cause of tyre damage. Under inflation causes excessive flexing in the tyre, which builds up internal heat and may eventually weaken the casing. It will also cause rapid shoulder and irregular tread wear. Check the tyre placard for recommended inclation pressures.

Air for your tyres
All cars are different, different weights, different sizes etc. Because of this each individual car needs something different from their tyres. Whether it needs high performance tyres for greater handling or smooth and silent tyres for the family car. No matter what tyre you use, incorrect inflation pressure can be detrimental to your tyres.

Rules and Guidelines

All tyres deflate overtime- typically your tyres can lose up to 2psi per month. So it is up to you to check your tyre pressures. Here are some simple rules and guidelines when checking tyre pressures.

* Tyres should be inflated to the vehicle manufacturers recommended pressures.
* Tyre pressures should only be checked when the tyre is cold. This is due to the tyre heating up when in use and causing increased air pressure, which in turn will give an incorrect air pressure reading.
* Always ensure that dust caps are applied tightly to each tyre valve. Dust caps prevent dirt and moisture entering the valve mechanism causing damage and also prevent sudden tyre deflation through the valve.
* Don’t forget the spare tyre.

Different Pressure for Different Occasions

Different driving conditions require different pressures. Here are some simple tips to follow.

* For everyday motoring, tyre pressures should never be lower than the manufacturer’s recommended pressure. Manufacturers recommend air pressure to best give a combination of ride and handling when carrying a load.
* Putting extra stress on your tyres by carrying heavy loads or by towing trailers can significantly reduce the life of your tyres. It must be remembered that it may be necessary to increase the pressure in your tyres when carrying heavier loads (usually +4-6 psi).

Problems of Over and Under Inflating
Correct tyre pressure will ensure you get the best performance and mileage out of your tyres; it will also optimise both ride comfort and fuel economy.

Over-inflation: When this happens it results in the tyre not sitting squarely on the road. Tyre flex is reduced and causes excessive wear through the centre of the tyre. It also results in smaller footprints and less grip.

Under-inflation: This is more common and sometimes not so obvious to notice. It creates excess wear on the shoulders of the tyre and the increase in flexing generates great amounts of heat. The extra heat and strain can increase the risk of casing failure and separation failures.

Balancing your wheels.

Safety is the main reason for balancing the wheels and tyres on your vehicle. Balancing will help ensure a smooth, vibration free ride as well as improving tyre life.

When the wheels on your car have an imbalance, the most notable effect is that the steering wheel moves up and down in your hands or the seat vibrates. This can be extremely frustrating and especially tiring on a long trip, which may result in the driver’s judgement being impaired. In a mishap, a vibration that is excessive may result in some suspension damage if the cause of the vibration is not corrected for a long period of time. As the tyre and wheel assembly is vibrating, the contact pressure of the tyre on the road varies, which can cause irregular wear and will in turn, result in premature tyre removal.

The wheels should be balanced when new tyres are fitted, any time that the tyre is removed from the rim and at regular intervals to take into account any variation in tyre balance from irregular wear.

Wheel alignment.

Correctly wheel aligning your vehicle will ensure that it drives straight down the road. Correct wheel alignment will also ensure that the tyres on your vehicle wear evenly and are not removed prematurely as a result of irregular wear. This will also increase fuel economy.

Wheel alignment should occur upon fitting new tyres to your vehicle and for every 10,000km after. Your vehicle should be wheel aligned at regular intervals throughout the life of the tyre, especially when components have been replaced in the front or rear suspension or if the vehicle has hit anything (e.g. a kerb). Your local tyre centre will be able to inspect the tyres fitted to your vehicle and advise you as to whether a wheel alignment is required.

Repair or replace.

Some tyres are damaged so badly that they must be discarded. Tyres that should never be repaired include those with tread or casing separation; fabric chafer damage which would reduce the tubeless air seal; broken, kinked or exposed bead wires; flex breaks; presence of an internal liquid sealant with any penetration damage through the inner liner; tread depth below 1.6mm; cracks which extend into the tyre fabric; open liner splices which show exposed cords; liner and first ply showing evidence of having been run flat, under inflated or overloaded.

It is recommended that repairs should be undertaken only by qualified tyre technicians, because sometimes tyres with apparently minor external damage have actually sustained unseen but serious internal damage.

Wear life.

The rate of tread wear depends on factors such as vehicle speed, load, braking, cornering, acceleration, inflation pressures, wheel alignment, road surface, climatic and even geographical conditions. A conservative driving style will help to prolong tyre durability.

Valve maintenance.

Tyre valves maintain the air pressure in the tyre. It is recommended that the valve be replaced when new tyres are fitted. Valve caps are the primary air seal, and protect the valve from dust, grit and water. Soft plastic dust caps which have no sealing ability are not recommended.