Automatic transmission to manual transmission (1985 -86 MkI)

Extra tools I had to buy in addition to my normal hand tools:
Toyota Repair Manual or Haynes manual
10 mm deep socket
12 mm deep socket
14 mm deep socket
30 mm socket ½-inch drive (for axle nuts)
10 mm and 12 mm hydraulic nut wrenches
Drill bit (5/16)
A second hydraulic jack

PARTS I REMOVED FROM THE PARTS CAR Two 1985s, and one 1987) :
1. 5-speed transmission (which includes the shift lever on the transmission [selecting bell crank assembly: #3590F & control shift lever: # 33527] and reverse switch: # 84210) (Note: Use a transmission from an 85 or 86 if you have a 85 or 86 MR2. Sometime in 1987 they changed the transmission and I think the mounting point for the rear transmission mount may have changed.). Also need clutch release fork: #31240, clutch release bearing assembly: #31230, release fork ball: # 31236, and clutch release fork boot: # 31126.

17. ECU from the same year M/T car (1985 and 1986 are the same. I kept getting error codes when I used an ECU from a 1987 MKI.) NOTE: I have been informed that the A/T ECU will work with the manual transmission without any problems

NEW PARTS I BOUGHT:
1. Clutch pressure plate
2. Clutch disc
3. Throwout bearing
4. Transmission fluid
5. Hydraulic brake fluid
6. Electrical connectors
7. Cotter pins for the drive shafts
8. Rear transmission rubber isolator (Good time to inspect/replace all isolators for wear/tears)

Front Removal

1) Loosen lug nuts. Raise and support the corner of the car you are working on. Remove wheel.

2) Remove two 17mm bolts holding caliper and mouting bracket to the rotor. Support the caliper on the strut assembly so as not to damage the brake line.

3) Remove rotor by jiggling and pulling it off.

4) Now you should see three Torx bolts holding the dust shield to the steering knuckle. You can also use a 10mm socket to get these loose. Here’s a pic of the bolts, there’s a third one on the opposite side as well. You have to go at these at an angle, becuase the hub is in the way. It also took a pair of pliers on the nut driver to get these loose.

5) Now the dust shield should be loose. However, you can’t just pull it off over the hub. So you need to cut a slot in it so you can. Do that in the spot below with a dremel or rotozip type tool.

6) Ended up having to cut off more than indicated above, since the metal was not as flexible as I thought. Used the side-cutting bit on a Rotozip. Here’s the dust shields off, to show you how much you need to cut off.

1. disconnect the cable from the tranny. It’s a garden hose type of screw on connector. Small vise grips helped to turn it. Then just pull it out.

2. take out 7 screws on the dash, 5 up and 2 on the side. Take off top dash plate. Take off 2 nuts (10mm socket) and take off the metal bracket (just pull it up and out).

3. Now you can get to the speedo connector. Use a small screwdriver to pry the white plastic tab on the right out a little and at the same time push in the longer tab on the left and with your third hand pull the connector out.

4. In the fronk take off the plastic shield and pop out the two rubber grommets on the cable, then just pull the cable out into the fronk.

5. under the car pull the cable down and after taking off the plastic protectors unclip the cable from the three clips. Pull the cable out and you’re half way done.

6. Shove the new cable down from the fronk and route it back, pay attention going over the tranny, but everything is easy.

7.Shove the front of the cable into the hole. Get under the dash with a light and after three tries you will find where it is supposed to go. Just shove it onto the connector at the speedo and button up the dash.

8. The tranny has a slot and the cable has a tit on the side, make sure the tit slides in and screw on the cap and you are done.

If you can get your old inner cable out of the old sheath, then all you have to do is pull the cable out at the tranny end. Grease the new cable and slide it all the way in. You may have to twist it some and you may have to lightly use vise grips to shove it in, but it will go. My cable was broken 2 feet from the tranny end and no amount of twisting and pulling would allow it to come out the front. The cable can be had for $60 and the whole thing can be had for $120. Luckily, my parts car had a perfect one.

You can use a drill on the cable to test if the speedometer is working.
If you need to pull out the speedo “sub-assembly” from the tranny, use a 12mm socket on the bolt next to the speedo cable. The bolt holds a flat piece of metal that fits into a slot in the sub-assembly. Once those are out of the way, just wobble the sub around and it will come out. There is an o-ring on it and it has been setting in there for 20 years, so yep it may be tough to pull out. Mine however came out easily.

1. Exhaust

-Silvertop

The complete 16v exhaust system can be used with the 20v silvertop. The only needed modification will be to the outermost flanges of the stock 16v header (pictures are of an ae86 header, but the bolt patern is the same)

The 20v header can also be used, but will require either a custom bpipe, or modifications to an existing 20v bpipe. The 20v silvertop header also has clearance issues with any exhaust side mounted starter. Clearance between the ST header and starter will only be a few millimeters.

The diameter of the 20v header pipes is identical to those on the 16v. The 20v header may have a slight advantage due to the use of theta plates, but dimensionally, the headers are the same or similar.

-Blacktop

The 16v header can also be used with the blacktop, but will result in power loss due to the Blacktop’s larger exhaust ports. A typical 16v header/manifold will be a bit constricting. 16v manifolds have been used with blacktops, so it is possible. Larger diameter 16v headers may be available.

For best results, use the blacktop header (or exhaust header that has the same exhaust port dimensions) when possible.

The exhaust mounted starter will not clear the larger diameter blacktop header. This will be an issue with any 1985-1987.5 20v conversions where the original c50 transmission is to be used since these transmissions lack the intake side mounting position. You really have 3 options in this situation.

a. Use the 16v setup, and take the performance hit
b. Use a later c52 transmission (or bellhousing) that does have the intake starter mounting position
c. Modify the 20v header to clear the starter.

Once again, a custom bpipe will have to be made, or an existing bpipe modified

Keep in mind that 87+ mr2’s used a larger diameter bpipe, cat, and muffler, so this is your best choice for the 20v. The 4agze equipped mr2’s used the same exhaust setup as the NA cars did.

2. Transmission

All mk1 mr2 transmission will physically bolt up to the 4age 20v. There are considerations you must make though.

-A series motors used 2 different sizes of flywheel. Early mr2’s, up till around 1986, used a 200mm flywheel. From 86 on, a 212mm flywheel was used. (200mm and 212mm pertains to the griping area of the flywheel. The actual diameter of the flywheels was the same). The 20v came with the later size flywheel, so when ordering a replacement clutch and pressureplate, just ask for a clutch kit for a 1989 mr2. If using the smaller flywheel, ask for a set from an 85 mr2. Either clutch set will be sufficient for the stock 4age 20v.
-Early c50 transmissions only had one mounting position for the starter. With this transmission, you are limited to mounting the starter on the exhaust side of the motor. These transmissions are on the 85-87.5 mr2’s. Later mr2’s had the c52 transmission. This transmission had a secondary starter mounting position on the intake side of the motor, just like the stock 20v transmissions. If you plan on using your 16v exhaust manifold, which is perfectly fine with a silvertop, you can mount the starter on either side. If you plan on using a 20v header, especially the blacktop’s, the header will not clear the exhaust mounted starter. If you must use the exhaust mounted starter in this case, the header will have to be modified for clearance.

-The c52 and c56 that comes with a 20v can also be used with modification and transferring a few parts from the original mr2 transmission, namely your mr2 selector shaft, and the entire mr2 shifter assembly. On the silvertop c52, a hole will have to be drilled for the selector shaft and the oil seal. On the C56 however, there is no casting for the oil seal. One of 3 approaches has to be taken.
-Add the additional aluminum casting, and drill as you normally would
-Fab an adapter or a makeshift casting (this has been done with JB weld, not the ideal way, but seems to be holding up in this case)
-Reuse the center transmission casing from your original mr2 transmission. This requires taking both transmissions apart

Here are some pics of the problem area:

-6speed transmissions are available for the 20v, known as the c60. Some blacktops came with a 6speed stock, although it was not a real common option. The same considerations must be made for the oil seal casting that have to be made when using a blacktop c56 5 speed. Getting a blacktop with a 6speed is usually somewhat pricey.
One other option is to use a 00+ Celica 6speed. The bellhousings are different, but can be swapped somewhat easily. All that holds the bellhousing to the central casing are the external 12mm bolts, and two 12mm bolts on the inside of the bellhousing that are attached to a reverse lockout arm. Once the external bolts are removed, the internal ones can be removed and installed through the 1-2 inch resulting gap. It’s a little bit tricky, but is much easier than taking the transmission apart. Once apart, remove the old differential bearing races and shims from the 4age bellhousing and replace them with the ones from the original 6speed bellhousing. It is very important that the differential stay with all of its original races and shims. This is the only way to keep the tension on the differential somewhat within spec. Too much or too little tension, and you will burn your differential bearings.

The celica 6speed will also require the use of 1991+ mr2 NA axles. No drilling is required since the Celica’s selector shaft is already on the correct side of the motor. Just add the mr2 selector shaft and shift assembly.

3. Cooling

The 20v does require hoses to be run differently. It is very straight forward, and one of the easiest parts of the swap. Rather than draw up a detailed explanation, here are some detailed pictures:

The rule of thumb that I use is link the driver’s side hard line that runs under the center of the car to the driver’s side water outlet on the 20v motor. Same for the passenger side. The passenger side hardline (the one with the oil cooler) goes to the water inlet on the back of the head next to the exhaust manifold. I usually try to incorporate my filler neck into this side of the cooling system. The needed hose stock can be purchased at Napa along with any flexible hoses you might want to use.

The heater hoses are also very straight forward. The 16v hoses can be used, but it is better just to buy the correct diameter tubing, and simply cut new hoses to length.

4. Throttle cable

My preferred method for dealing with the 16v cable being too short for the 20v is to simply reroute it. I drill a second hole in the fire wall about 6inches to the passenger side of the original throttle cable hole (be careful not to hit anything under the dash when you do this). I then route the cable under the dash, under the center console, behind the rear firewall and out the trunk release cable hole in the rear firewall (if you want to keep your trunk release, a second hole can be drilled). This puts the throttle cable in the perfect position with more than enough length.

5. Wiring

This is the heart of this conversion. Many 20v swaps have failed due to installers being unable to master the wiring. To make this part of the swap go more smoothly, I offer a complete plug and play solution. Here is a picture of the finished product:

It is perfectly fitted for the aw11. The air conditioning works along with the enginebay cooling fan. The 20v ecu will mount in the stock aw11 location. I test every harness on my own vehicle so that it is know to be operational and defect free before I ship it. The harness is loomed and ready to run.

The whole concept is to offer a harness that looks and fits like it was oem. Its as if you went to the Toyota dealership and ordered a stock harness, although my harness is cheaper than a dealership replacement harness. The cost is $350 and has a 100% success rate.

It’s a superior product compared to other offerings on the internet that claim to be plug and play. Competitive offerings ship mostly unloomed (ie you get a barewire harness), totally untested and have been known to contain defects. You as the end user get to sort through all the issues. Far from a hook it up in 20 minutes and turn the key proposition.

If you decide to do the wiring yourself, it is best to get an uncut 20v harness. There will be plenty to modify and change to make it work with the aw11 bodyharness, but is much easier than trying to get a cut harness to work. With a typical cut harness, you end up reconstructing a good portion of the harness. Not good if you are not pretty advanced at automotive wiring. Either way, there is a lot of soldering involved.

Here is a link to a good step by step on how to get an uncut 20v harness to work in the aw11.

http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/blac…ng/wiring.html

Swapping a 20v 4age for a 16v 4age has become a very common practice. Aside from significant performance advantages, you will be getting a newer engine typically with much lower mileage. Parts availability for the 20v has improved over the years as well. There are a number of Toyota dealerships that specialize in JDM parts. Champion Toyota comes to mind. Almost all the parts can be purchased easily and are priced like normal USDM dealership replacement parts. Considering many mr2 replacement parts have to be ordered anyway, getting 20v parts is not much more of a hassle.

The 20v conversion is a fairly easy bolt-in swap. Perfect for those looking for a high revving engine with a wonderfully broad powerband who also want stock reliability.

1. Mounting Points- All 3 transaxle mounts can be used from the C-52. Some fab work is necessary for the passenger motor mount.

2. Evap/Fuel system – make returnless, somewhat extensive
*check the other board for write-up with pics on making a return system returnless*

3. Slave cylinder – minor requires 3/16 female to male M12 coupling (brake fitting) From the firewall chassis fitting to 3/16″ aluminum brake line. Use tube bender to make custom bends. Attach to the C-60′s slave.

4. Header – reweld flange or contact David Lea (LittleRocket) who sells Brad Bedell’s header. I custom frabricated my own B-Pipe. Bedell may eventually have a B-Pipe available.

5. Axles – 91+ MR2 N/A non-ABS

6. Power Steering Pump removed – 1ZZ Idler pulley PN:13570-22010

7. Coolant/Heater hose – custom setup, many ways to do this.

8. Clutch selector cable bracket – Moddified C-52 bracket to sit higher on the C-60

9. Transaxle Mod – Note: I used a transaxle from a JDM Fielder which is like that of the Matrix/Vibe. I had to reverse the select lever to exit the front of the housing. Using the Celica version does not require this mod. PapoJ rotated the selector lever 180* to match the cables, but used a C-52 bellhousing. This allowed for him to use the C-52 cable bracket in the factory location. I modified my C-52 bracket to sit higher like it did on the original transaxle. All internal springs, clips, select levers, etc. were swapped from the Fielder’s select lever shaft to the Celica’s version select lever shaft.

Celica select lever shaft. PN: 33261-20080

9. Dipstick and Tube – MRS 1ZZ
- some minor tweaking was required to get it to fit.
Dipstick PN: 15301-22040
Guide(tube) PN: 11452-22040

10. Fuel Line – filter to fuel rail. I cut banjo fitting from the fuel line of the 4AGE where it mates to the filter and the quick-connect from the 2ZZ fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. These fittings were already barbed and inserted into 5/15″ fuel injection hose. *Dont Use Fuel/Evap Hose* Its not rated for the higher PSI. Hose clamps should be used as well. 1 hose to connect the 4AGE filter to the 2ZZ rail.

I still have my notes and the JDM Pinouts(wiring diagram), Connector Chart and Fuse/Relay Box for the early version of the Fielder/RunX/Alan in PDF format. Extensive…

This is how I have wired mine thus far.

I used the molex(N1) in the trunk and M1 and M2. I picked up mating connectors from the salvage yard. These were mated to coresponding wires of 2 of the ECU connectors, engine harness connectors and the added fuse box.

I used the fuse box from the Fielder to incorperate other fuses and relays. One of the relays was made the C/Open and also used the EFI relay and fuse for the EFI system. Unused fuses, relays and associated wiring were scrapped.

I basically used the MR2′s fusebox to run some of the components intended. The Fielder’s box was used to supply power to parts of the system I didnt think I could reconfigure. I was basicly trying to wire the 2ZZ as the engine would have originally been wired, basicly for OBD2 purposes.

The two systems are wired differently and being that I am no expert tried to do this in the most simple fashion for my understanding. The principles between the two systems are similar, but routing is different.

On a cpl of other notes, this being an OBD2 system, it only has one O2 sensor. I found this suprising, but I guess there are different regulations in Japan.

The Celica’s pinout indicates 2 O2′s where this system only has wiring for 1, which splices into the OBD2 port. I also have the Fielder’s exhaust and only 1 4-wire O2 sensor came with it.

The OBD2 port will be in my trunk as opposed to under the dash.

The only thing I havent figured out how to wire up are my oil sending wire, water temp wire and the VSV for the evap. (4age sending unit tee’d into the oil pressure selinoid for VVTL-i. Coolant temp sending unit yet to be installed. I have thought about the blocks drain-cock, but unsure.) I have one plug in the new system I dont have all the pinouts for and Im sure it mates to the oil and water. (I Found this to be incorrect. This connector had wires for the charging system) Im also under the impression that the Celi evap I purchased may be different than that of the JDM version as this schematic doesnt cover that VSV. The Celi’s did cover the wiring for it. This is something Ill have to work around or reconfigure once Im up and running.

Brief summery…

I had a hesitation issue with cam-changeover shortly after the swap. I had thought it was a fuel issue, but wasnt sure. Problem seemed to self correct as the seasons changed and temp dropped. On cooler days, changeover was great, no problems. Warmer (humid) weather and it was back…????

These results were on a Dynojet.

Mods:
-CAI
-Brad Bedell header
-My custom 2-1 collector B-Pipe
-Factory Cat with CherryBomb “turbo style” muffler
-B-pipe Collector merges to a 2.5″ into the cat and 2″ from cat exit back

All are SAE: 1.00 corrected, Max HP @ 7400, Max TQ @ 6800

Pull 1 – 158.64 HP 6:19pm
116.07 ft/lb
63.55 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 2 – 158.29 HP 6:22pm
114.31 ft/lb
63.42 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 3 – 161.35 HP 6:44pm
117.13 ft/lb
64.72 deg.
46% Humidity

I had originally thought the factory pump may have been limiting the fuel. Not the case… I’m running FAT!!! In all of the runs I was rich, down about 9 something.

The difference on the last run was the motor cooled a bit and we ran a fan for the radiator. It appears the fan also helped with the rich condition. The cooler air may have helped the air/fuel because on the last run I saw a low of about 10.5.

Im thinking if I can get my air/fuel into the 13.5-14.5 area I should be putting down about 169-173 HP. Time to fix some A/F ratios.

Im not sure if its the 4age’s fuel pump combined with the 2ZZ’s pressure regulator making for the wrong combo of parts. Should try the other pump. Or if its the cold air intake that the computer is over compensating for. It seems as if it hesitates more on hot days and not at all on the cooler days.

Im thinking this could also be due in part to a faulty O2 sensor. The one that came with 2ZZ’s downpipe was slightly damaged, though I still used it. It could be that the O2 isnt properly reading the signal.

**It is my understanding that the O2 only monitors in closed loop. I also understand that when under W.O.T. the system goes into open loop, at which time the computer just dumps fuel. …so this may not be my issue. I have considered using an Apex’i VAFC-II piggy-back to help lean it out. Some ppl say that the piggy-back will be over ridden by the factory ECU. I understand this as true, when in the closed loop. But, when under open throttle, your in open loop… At this time the piggy-back will kick in and run your engine at the parameters which you have set. Now some of this is just my theory, but really would like to try and correctly resolve the issue before going piggy-back.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2255550

Tools needed:

• Torque wrench that can do 27 ft/lbs.
• 14mm socket/wrench
• 14mm combination wrench (ratcheting is a definite plus)
• Drill (and a metric buttload of crappy bits or 3-4 really good ones)
• Safety glasses (of course)
• Ear defenders
• File
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Center Punch
• Cut-off tool
• Wire wheel
• Stone

• And maybe the biggest tool of all (no reflection on Jeff, of course), a friend with a welder!

1) Okay…first off, remove your stock Mk1 seat by removing the four 14mm bolts that hold it to the floor. You’ll be taking the mounting points loose of the rails on these seats and transferring them over to the Spyder seats.

2) You’ll notice that each mounting point is held on by one big rivet (red) and one spot weld (green). The rivet is obvious enough. The location of the spot weld is where the small circular indentation in the metal is.

2) Use a center punch to make an indentation as close to the center of the rivet and on the weld point. Drill them out. Hopefully, you have some nice, new drill bits or you’re going to play hell trying to drill through all this stuff using many, many crappy, dull bits. I had luck starting with a very small drill bit, then using progressively larger bits to widen the holes.

3) Now use the hammer and chisel to take the head off of that rivet. It will bend a bit, then go flying off (wear your safety glasses any time you are working with impact type tools!) Finally, you can take a hammer and chisel between the rail and mounting point to separate them. You’ll notice that one mounting point (the one in the above picture) has a protrusion to hook the seat return spring to. I used a cut-off tool to remove this, as there is no spring on the Spyder seat. Well, in retrospect, I should have looked to see if I could rig that spring up. It’s kind of nice to have the seat go forward when you release it.

4) So now you have the feet removed from your Mk1 seats. Time to work on the Spyder seats…

First off, you’ll notice the two front mounting points have the same set-up as the Mk1, with a rivet attachment and a spot weld…but this “rivet” has a large post/peg that goes into the floorboard on the Mk3.

5) I used a cutoff tool to remove most of this post, then used the same center tap/drill technique as I used on the Mk1 rails and mounts.

You’ll notice that one of the rear mounts on the Spyder has two rivets, a spot weld, and a regular weld on one side. Thankfully, you don’t have to attack this one. It just gets cut off with the cut-off wheel just behind the other rivet which serves as a rail stop.

6) After removing the Spyder mounting points, you’ll need to prep the rails for welding. I used a stone to remove the paint very quickly in the areas where they were to be welded. Each rail had a couple of inches stripped at the front edge. Then I stripped a section from about 11 – 13.5 inches from the front edge to mount the rear feet.

Off to Jeff’s house to weld ‘em (BTW, if you can do this all at the location with the welder, all the better. Driving your car with the seat loose is not very safe and definitely not much fun).

7) Put all four Mk1 mounts in their respective places and tighten them down. Put the seat rails full forward (as if the seat was fully to the rear). Carefully position the seat on the Mk1 mounts. Now tack the front mounts to the set.

Move the seat forward and tack the rear points. Now remove the seat and weld the points securely to the rails. You can probably get away with doing two welds inside the holes you drilled, but why not be safe and draw a bead around as much of the mount as you can?!?

The above picture was of the first seat I did…before I figured out you could cut that rail down a good bit.

9) The Mk3 has an integrated seat belt retainer. Problem is, it accepts a smaller seat belt hook than what the Mk1 uses. So, you can remove a screw on the side of the Spyder seat and use a 14mm wrench to remove the retainer and wiring for it.

10) Install the seat, and check for proper travel. Finally, it’s ready for paint. A quick prime (using rust converter, if necessary) and paint (don’t forget to do the same with the mounting bolts!!!) and you’re set to rock and roll.

11) Install the seat and tighten the 4 bolts to 27 ft/lbs.

Nice, huh? (Forgive how dirty the seats and car are…couldn’t wait to take the picture!)

The passenger seat sits maybe ½” higher than the stockers, but the angle of the bottom cushion of the driver’s side is adjustable, so you lose maybe ½” with it adjusted all the way up, and gain ¾” with it completely down.

Every car has different seat mounting locations. Therefore aftermarket seat manufacturers must sell brackets specific to the car. Sometimes this is included in the price, other times not. And almost always these brackets do not contain the sliders for adjusting the seats. These sliders are an even additional cost. The good news about this is that the stock MR2 seat brackets/sliders can be reused. It just takes a bit of work, and $5 worth of metal from Home Depot.

This writeup shows you how to do this using a set of Sparco Torino II’s. Just a bit of info about these seats if you are interested. These are a great comprimise between full on race seats and comfortable seats. They recline & include nice padding to make long trips or daily driving comfortable, while adding lots of support and side bolsters for more spirited driving. They are a bit on the heavy side though, especially once the mr2 sliders/brackets are added.

1) First of all detach the sliders from the stock seats. I purchased a spare set, so as not to destroy my stock seats. Sorry no pics of this step, but it’s straightforward. Here’s what you should end up with.

2) Now, use your favorite cut-off tool (Dremel) to remove all the unnecessary bits. The below picture shows what is safe to remove by the red lines. Do NOT remove what is circled in green. This is the mechanism for the slider adjuster.

3) Here’s pics of the progress. A good set of drill bits is nice to have to drill out these rivets. Again, do not remove anything marked in green.

I didn’t realize before I started priming that I could also remove this other set of teeth. The red circles mark the welds to be drilled out. Make sure you are removing the teeth from the rail WITHOUT the handle.

4) Once stripping all the now useless bits test fit the rails into the car.

5) Measure the lengths needed for the flat bar to go across the rails. I used 3/8″ steel that I purchased at Home Depot. You can now cut the lengths of the bar. Cutting a bit long wouldn’t hurt.

6) Make a template for the bolt locations on the new seat. Here’s pic of template I used. Use this template to figure out where to drill holes in the flat bar. Since the MR2′s steering wheel is shifted about one or two inches toward the center console, I tried to push the seat as far toward the console as possible. This took some test fitting of the seat in the vehicle.

7) Drill the holes in the bar and temporarily mount to the seat.

Now, fit the seat into the car to mark wear the bar should be welded to the rails. This is a bit cumbersome since there’s not much room (much less light) under there to work.

9) Tack weld the bars to the rails and do another test fit. Making sure the seat slides smoothly front to back. And to make sure its not crooked. Make any adjustments to the bar locations as needed. Then get to welding the bars permanently to the rails.

10) Grind the welds pretty and primer everything.

Painted black.

11) Fitted to the seat (pic is prior to paint of course). Use some threadlocker on the bolts into the seat. These are a pain to get to when the seat is installed in the car, so you don’t want these coming loose.

12) Installed and repeat for the other seat.

I don’t have any pics of the headliner removal process, but it’s fairly straightforward. Just a lot of little things.

1) Slide off the cover to the rear view mirror. Remove the 2 screws underneath to remove the mirror.

2) Remove the 2 screws holding each sunvisor in place. Remove the clips that each sunvisor clips into as well.

3) Remove the A-pillar trim pieces on each side. This are held in place by 3 or 4 hidden clips under the trim piece.

4) Remove the “oh-no!” handle on the passenger side and the trim piece under it. Remove that same trim piece from the driver’s side.

5) Remove the cover from the interior light, using a screwdriver to pry one edge out. Remove the 4 screws holding the light in place.

6) Remove the trim piece in the upper rear that was behind the light.

7) The directions here will differ depending if you have sunroof, t-top or hardtop. If hardtop I would assume the headliner should now come off. I’m not sure what needs done on the t-tops. On sunroof models, remove the sunroof, then dismantle the latch from the roof. This allows you to remove the weatherstripping from around the sunroof opening. You can then remove the headliner.

Thoroughly wash each piece that you will be dying and let dry. Then pain the pieces as directed on the spray can. Here are some comparison pictures of undyed vs. dyed.

9) Installation is opposite of removal. Here’s some pics after installation. It looks better in person than in the pics.

Just some reference pics of the headliner removed.

THE reason that you have to remove all traces of R-12 in a system is because the introduction of R-134 turns the R-12 traces to glue. This is in fact, a good thing, as hoses now become sealed up, instead of leaking even more like was previously believed.

It is a myth that all of the O-rings need to be replaced. Also, the oil is the one of the biggest issues, so:

1. Do NOT EVER get a new “R-134″ compressor just because you had an R-12 compressor. It’s the same compressor as an R12 compressor, but it has a different oil charge from the factory. It’s a simple job to flush the compressor with alcohol.

2. The same applies to the condensor and all of the other parts, except the receiver/dryer – all of the system can be flushed with alcohol (denatured). It is NOT necessary to replace major parts of the system because you want to convert it. (The residual alcohol boils out when you pull a vacuum on the system – it has a high vapor pressure.)

3. Put in the required amount of Ester oil, usually about 6 oz. This is synthetic, and is THE perfect replacement for the old crappy mineral oil (R-12) and PAG (R-134).

4. Replace the Receiver/Dryer. It’s cheap, and it affects performance.

5. If you put in R-134, fill with a charge equivalent to 80% of the R-12 charge, which is 28-32 oz. for ’91-’93 MR2′s.

6. Your vacuum pump may not pull to 30 Inches of Mercury (not PSI). Any reasonable vacuum below 20 in. Hg. will do fine. The real trick here is to boil out any residual moisture. The greater the vacuum, the more effective the procedure.

7. Connect both manifold hoses when you get started. There’s less chance of getting air into the system if you pull a vacuum through the whole system, all hoses included. (Open both manifold valves.)

8. A properly charged and functional MR2 A/C system will in fact cool pretty well with R-134. I have proof of this with a few MK2′s.

9. If you really want a fluorescent dye added, get one that’s Ester oil based, as it will work in almost any system.

10. Ditch the crappy R-134!!! It’s molecules are smaller (so we are told) than R-12 molecules, so it leaks out faster. (This is one reason for the O-ring story – the newer O-rings are supposed to seal “better”. Maybe…)

ES-12a, manufactured by EnviroSafe in Pekin, IL, is THE stuff to get. It is:

1. Non-ozone depleting
2. Non-toxic (well, not severely brain damaging like R-134)
3. Flammable (but not like propane is)
4. It’s only a mail order product for most of us
5. You use less than R-12 or R-134
6. It’s a petroleum product, so it’s molecules are larger than R-12 and R-134 molecules, so it has less chance to leak.
7. It is compatible with almost every A/C oil out there – no need to change oil.
8. For 12 bucks, you can add a can of ProSeal to fix most small leaks.

8. COLD. No, I mean COLD. I HIGHLY recommend the Industrial ES-12a, as it gets colder than the regular version. MR2′s will cycle off about 42 degrees F (measured at the center duct). My Lexus SC300 goes down to 31 degrees. The colder it gets, the more efficient it is, and the less it needs to work to get your car cold. My MR2 has will pull the duct temp up to 50 degrees below the inlet temp. R-12 and R-134 will not ever do that.

I’ve put this stuff in so many cars, I’ve gone through two cases of cans and a 30 Lb. tank.

AND, don’t forget to check your heater water valve to make sure it’s closing all the way. (The heater core lines should be cold to the touch.)

The 5vz-fe has proven strong parts, when the TRD supercharger is used, good power can be made. Even safely if you add fuel!

Why the 3vz-fe is superior

Mostly ECU reasons:

It’s OBD-I ECU is the least trouble code throwing, least caring ECU in the line-up. I have tuned 720cc injectors to run on an N/A 3vz-fe acceptibly.

It does not throw/store codes from o2 sensor feedback – even if it is massively different. Black smoke rich to engine melting lean. It doesn’t care.

1mz-fe’s have horrible over sensitive knock sensor problems. 3vz-fe’s do not.

Like running a mild turbo, or N/A without much in the way of fuel/ignition tuning? The 3vz-fe has the large Denso AFM, and a distributor. Stock, off the bat leaning the AFM cog & adding 7* of timing (17*btdc base) advance puts the 92-93 3vz-fe 185bhp to the 94-97.5 3vz-fe’s 200bhp.

200cc stock injectors are Bleh. But with a combination of a walbro 190+, FPR, and either an extra injector, or larger injectors (330cc @ 41/43psi), you can run up to 300bhp out of one without touching the ECU if you don’t want.

Yes… You can install a FPR, 550cc’s, and a Walbro 255 & use the AFM cog to tune over 350bhp… All without a piggyback. it has been done. You will need lots of money, as you will rich so ungodly rich you’ll get stuck at the gas pump.

The 3vz-fe ECU is very accommodating when it comes to closed loop changes. Don’t like the fact that a normal ECU likes to run stoich under boost until open loop? 3vz-fe’s are not prone to tuning such changes out. If they do, we have it covered with $10. A relay +wire
3vz-fe also has a neat ability, transforming it into what essentially stand alone.
Run the TPS’s output (VTA) through one side of a double pole double throw (DPDT) relay. Take the 5v TPS/AFM supply (VC). Run this through the other side of the DPDT relay.
Trigger the relay however you want, when you want to enter open loop mode. Be that all the time, a $3 ebay boost pressure switch, or an output for your piggyback.
Because of it’s ability to run massive size injectors compared to stock, it doesn’t care!
OBD-I > OBD-II
1)easy tuning
2)the one fuel trim change do not continue through open-loop

Afraid you’ll miss OBD-II’s anal retentiveness for troubleshooting?
The 3vz-fe has you covered. Tho the ’94 1mz-fe had the world’s first complaint engine/ECU, the 3vz-fe’s do have an ace up their sleeve.
Diagnostic mode II. Yes… The 3vz-fe is the only v6, and one of two OBD-II Toyota’s with DIAG2! This can’t even be entered with the ECU OFF! It has to be done with the engine running! It will throw every code possible instantly. Guess what happens when you trigger it & you’re not moving more than 6mph? Yep, wheel speed sensor code. All your temp & o2 sensors haven’t warmed up? Ya – count all them too. Along with a half dozen other codes.
Anything triggers anything in DIAG2.

All MZ block engine’s have a 139mph hard speed limit.
All 3vz-fe’s have no limit… You need power VS Aerodynamics to do 190mph.

Mechanical side:

The 3vz-fe itself is *highly* resistant to detonation. Many times more than a 3vz-e, 1mz-fe, or 5vz-fe is. The most resistant to detonation of any of the v6′s. I have personally run 22* of maximum advance over 6000rpm with my SMT-6 with no pinging. On Chevron 87.
Another ported & polished 3vz-fe went to a drag strip to test ignition timing. A base timing of 20* (stock is 10* universal to all v6′s/normal Toyota engines) produced no pinging, but poor performance. On 87 octane.

The 3vz-fe has the strongest stock rods used on any v6. They are massive.
Huge… Iron… Block… We don’t need sleeves, we don’t need block work to lay down 600whp. It’s too similar in construction to a 3000GT’s v6 not to say maybe even 900bhp+.
Other than the cast pistons, the 3vz-fe is stronger part for part than any other v6. It has yet to be seen if the biggest stock 3vz-fe can take down the biggest stock 5vz-fe. Why?

Because Neither Sean, nor I have set out to do it yet.

Like oil? 3vz-fe’s don’t. Yes, even 3psi at a cold idle is in spec… If you’re not on the gas, they don’t have a ton of oil pressure. This is great for turbo life.
FYI Camry 3vz-fe’s have no oil pressure sensor installed while ES 300/Windom’s do.
As long as the red light of death is off – you don’t have an oil problem, no matter HOW bright the yellow low oil level light is! (That’s an inside joke. I killed my OLS when I installed my turbo oil return somehow.)

3vz-fe redlines a 6850rpm, and the fuel cut is at 7100rpm.
Toyota RPM gauges read very, very slow I have logged my engine at 7400rpm on my SMT6… A 5vz-fe would come apart at that rpm without cams, valve springs & other work. Not us. (We have very diminishing power on stock cams after 6000rpm, however it’s best to shift at 6500-6900rpm to stay in powerband)

We don’t waste money on cams… Our engine has the biggest powerband (except maybe a 5vz-fe) under 3000rpm. We have OVER 100whp at 2000rpm. Yes… That’s right… Only a 3vz-fe has the power to spin tires on the Camry platform!

We get HUGE gains from head porting!!!
Seam McElligott got 30-35bhp.
I did my MYSELF and got 25-30.
A Camry owner had his done and got 25, possibly 30.
What do cams do on a 3vz-fe? Turn it into a 1mz-fe! <BLAH!> A cammed 3vz-fe made 220bhp on an MR2 with zero powerband.
We make 220bhp off P&P light N/A tuning, & a y-pipe… And still have the massive low rpm powerband.

The fully built N/A 3vz-e’s made 320bhp.
A fully built N/A 3vz-fe should then make 370bhp. Hey… If two extra valves are good for 50bhps tock, they should be worth it built too!

The downside is that the 3vz-fe has stock cast pistons. Not a problem when you run the correct amount of fuel, however 1mz-fe’s ahve cast pistons WITH a coating. They are minutely stronger (I say minutely because no 3vz-fe has hurt it’s bottom end, stock 1mz-fe’s have melted rings & pistons by running slightly lean at lower power levels than have been achieved by 3vz-fe’s)

Despite what anyone says, the 5vz-fe has one important edge. Displacement… 11.7% displacement advantage will ALWAYS equal an 11.7% power advantage when comparing the same basic setup.
If you have money, this doesn’t matter. A source once had a machinist calculate how far you could possibly stroke a 3vz-fe. 3.7L. The supposed kit that was coming from that was going to cost $4000+, and stroke to 3.5-3.6L.

I’ve worked on them all. Had a hand in one turbo 3vz-e, then turboed another from scratch. Turboed mine a few different odd ways so far. Rebuilt my 3vz-fe more times than you will ever want to know. Worked with 1mz-fe’s & worked on 5vz-fe’s.

3vz-fe JDM’s have no EGR. US’s can be throw away & blocked off. 1mz-fe1′s? Nopers!
3vz-fe’s have EVAP, but don’t care if you throw it away. 1mz-fe’s? Nope!
3vz-fe loose their 5-10bhp from carbon over a few years. 1mz-fe1′s have HORRIBLY over used EGR systems. What a 3vz-fe builds up over a few years, a 1mz-fe1 builds up in 9 months. Guess what, that new 1mz-fe you bought? if the entire intake track hasn’t been cleaned in the last 9-12 months, you can subtract 10bhp.

3vz-fe’s are non-interference. 1mz-fe1′s are also, 1mz-fe2′s are not.
My 2 favorite demonstration pictures of all time.
Don’t think that’s important? I destroyed my first OEM timing belt doing a top speed run when I got to 143mph, but still made it home.

I split my second within min of if running the first time. Shutup. They were installed correctly…

Is a 3vz-fe perfect? No. is it more perfect than everything else? Yes.
It’s the pinnacle of old & new engine design & controls when it comes to tuning.
SMT-6, or SMT-7′s kick other piggybacks’s asses.

Lastly, I like them & own them, so they’re instantly 36.8427545% better than what anyone else owns!