Front Removal

1) Loosen lug nuts. Raise and support the corner of the car you are working on. Remove wheel.

2) Remove two 17mm bolts holding caliper and mouting bracket to the rotor. Support the caliper on the strut assembly so as not to damage the brake line.

3) Remove rotor by jiggling and pulling it off.

4) Now you should see three Torx bolts holding the dust shield to the steering knuckle. You can also use a 10mm socket to get these loose. Here’s a pic of the bolts, there’s a third one on the opposite side as well. You have to go at these at an angle, becuase the hub is in the way. It also took a pair of pliers on the nut driver to get these loose.

5) Now the dust shield should be loose. However, you can’t just pull it off over the hub. So you need to cut a slot in it so you can. Do that in the spot below with a dremel or rotozip type tool.

6) Ended up having to cut off more than indicated above, since the metal was not as flexible as I thought. Used the side-cutting bit on a Rotozip. Here’s the dust shields off, to show you how much you need to cut off.

1) Bleed out as much brake fluid from the system as you can.

2) Remove the 14mm banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper.

3) Remove the top of the brake line hose from the pipe fitting. First pull out the U clip (red) and then unscrew the union bolt (green) holding the hose to the line.

4) Remove the U-clip that holds the brake line to the strut assembly.

You can then remove the brake lines from the car.

If you notice on each line, there are 2 E-clips. You need to remove both, to reuse on the new Goodridge lines.

5) Place one of the E-clips in the place indicated by the blue arrow.

Install the other E-clip to the end of the line (opposite the banjo bolt).

6) Install the new line opposite of how you removed it.

Here’s some pics for the front:

And the rear:

Tools needed:

• Various sockets and wrenches
• Screwdriver
• Rebuild kit ~$20(Toyota part # 04479-32011)
• Air compressor (to remove caliper piston)
• Denatured alcohol or brake fluid to clean parts

Front Removal

Here’s the front rebuild kit, about $15 from local auto parts store.

1) Loosen lugnuts, raise and support front of vehicle. Remove lugnuts and wheel.

2) Drain the brake fluid pressure from the bleed valve on the caliper. Place a hose over the valve and use an 8mm wrench to loosen the valve.

3) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to it’s mounting bracket.

4) Remove the 14mm banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper. Expect some brake fluid to leak through.

5) Here’s some pics of the caliper removed.

6) Push the slider out one side of the caliepr. I just used a pair of pliers as shown below to do this.

7) It should pop loose, then you can pull it the rest of the way out

Remove the 2 rubber dust boots.

9) Inside the caliper, you will see a collar. Remove this.

10) Do the same for the other sliders, and here’s the parts you will have removed.

11) Use a small screwdriver to pry out the piston set ring.

12) Pull out the piston boot.

13) Remove the piston from the cylinder with compressed air connected to the banjo bolt hole. Tighten the bleeder valve and make sure to place a block of wood or a rag inside the caliper, so that when the piston pops out it is not damaged. And believe me it will POP.

14) Pry out the piston o-ring with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to score the cylinder walls.

15) Just a pic of the cleaned up calipers after under a brass cleaning wheel.

16) Clean the sliders and collars in denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.

17) Also, clean the inside of the cylinder and the piston with denatured alcohol or brake fluid.

Front Assembly

1) Here’s all the parts laid out:

2) Make sure everything is nice and clean. Use denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.

3) Using the grease that came with the rebuild kit, grease up the cylinder o-ring. And then place it in the cylinder.

4) Grease up the piston

5) And insert it in the cylinder. It may take some force to get it in there. But it should slide smoothly once over the seal.

6) Insert the new cylinder boot around the piston. Then insert its set ring that holds the boot in place.

7) Grease the outside of the collar and slide it into the cylinder.

Grease one of the dust boots and insert it into the cylinder. Then grease up the slider.

9) Now, here’s a little trick. Take the other boot, and place it backwards over one end of the slider.

10) Insert the end of the boot in the cylinder and slide the slider in place

11) Lock the boots in place over the ends of the slider. Repeat steps 7-11 for the other slider.

12) Reinstallation of the calipers on the car is opposite the removal. Make sure to bleed the brakes properly & thoroughly.

1) Support rear of car on jack stands and remove wheel.

2) Remove clip from the hole pin that attaches the cable to the parking brake lever on the caliper

3) Remove the U-shaped retainer holding the cable to the cable support bracket

4) Remove the undercarraige protectors. You won’t have to remove them completely if you are only replacing one of the cables. But if doing both at the same time go ahead and take the time to remove them all the way.

5) Now follow the cable up towards the front of the car & remove the two 12mm bolts holding the cable support brackets to the frame of the car.

6) About a foot further to the front you’ll see another brace holding to the car. Remove the 10mm bolt, and unsnap the cable from hook.

7) Another 10mm bolt & bracket

Now you should have enough slack to remove the end of the cable from the main assembly.

9) Remove yet another bracket held up by two 10mm bolts.

10) Pull the bracket out toward you so that you can get a good angle on it. Now slide (or pry if necessary) the plastic connector off the bracket.

11) You can then pull the cable out through the tube in the main assembly.

12) Installation of the new cable is just the opposite of its removal. You may need to loosen the tension on the cable to attach the new cable. See the next step for a pic on how to do this.

13) Once installed you will need to adjust the tension on the cable. This is easily done by turning the 2 adjusting nuts on each side of the equalizer piece that the 2 cables attach to.

1. Pull the parking brake lever all the way up and down for 2-3 times. Then return the parking brake lever.
2. Depress the brake pedal several times.
3. Check to see if the parking brake crank on the calipers is in contact with the stopper pin. If not, loosen the adjusting nuts & cable until the crank begins to turn. If the crank is already touching the stopper pin, tighten the adjustin nuts & cable right before the crank stops moving.
4. Tighten the adjusting nuts so that the equalizer is horizontal to the ground.

Parts pics:

Here’s just some pics of the new cable:

Old worn out cable:

• Rebuild kit ~$30 from Toyota (Part # 04479-17011)
• Various sockets and pliers
• Denatured Alcohol
• Brake Fluid
• To do a complete rebuild you will also need:
  • Snap ring pliers – long and skinny set (Craftsmen #30353 work well)
  • SST #09756-00010 ($4 from OTC)

   

Here’s the SST that you need if you want to do the full rebuild on the rear calipers.

Rear Disassembly

1) Remove caliper from vehicle. Skip to step #4 if you left the mounting bracket on the rotor.

2) Remove 12mm slider bolt.

3) Pivot the caliper mounting bracket and remove it from the caliper.

Here’s the caliper, and check out that ratty piston boot!

4) Remove the main pin boot with a screwdriver. It may take a hammer to urge it off.

5) Remove the sliding bushing and boot.

6) Peel the cylinder boot down off the piston groove.

7) Using a pair of need nose pliers turn the piston counter-clockwise out of the cylinder.

Just a pic of the piston removed.

Remove the cylinder set ring with a screwdriver. You may need to dig around a little to find it. Then remove the cylinder boot.

9) Insert the SST onto the adjusting bolt, and lightly tighten it with a 14mm deepwell socket.

10) You should be able to see the snap ring down inside the cylinder. Take a set of long, skinny snap ring pliers and remove the snap ring.

I used a Craftsmen #30353 and was able to remove it the first time.

11) Pull out the SST, spring retainer, spring, spring plate, and stopper together with the adjusting bolt. May take some wiggling with a pair of pliers.

Here’s the empty cylinder.

12) Onto the parking brake. Remove the 14mm bolt and cable support bracket.

13) Remove the torsion spring with a screwdriver or pair of pliers.

Remove the 17mm bolt from the parking brake crank.

Not a necessary step, but if you want, remove the crank bracket from the crank. A 2 jaw puller may be necessary.

Pull out the crank.

14) With a screwdriver remove the parking brake crank boot. A hammer may be needed to urge it off.

The empty crank cylinder.

15) Another unnecessary step, but you can remove the stopper pin, that holds the torsion spring in place. A set of pullers or a pin punch works.

Here’s all the parts removed.

And here’s the dissambled adjusting bolt. Pull off the tiny o-ring on the head of the adjustment bolt.

Clean up all reusable parts with new brake fluid or denatured alcohol.

Unfortunately, I do not have any pics of the install. It’s basically the opposite of the removal process. Make sure to grease all the sliding parts real good.

Installation of the snap ring may take a while. You need the snap ring pliers and a long, skinny screwdriver to push it down in place.

All you need to upgrade your 85/86 to the bigger 87+ rotors are the rotors themselves and the caliper mounting brackets. If you want to go all out for this upgrade, you will need the dust shields from the 87+. You’ll need new brake pads too, since you are using new rotors. Any year brake pads will work, they are all the same.

*Note: You will probably notice that I mixmatched front and rear pics throughout this writeup. I’m not trying to confuse you, it’s just the best pics I had when I threw this page together.

1) First off, put the car on jackstands, and remove the wheel.

2) Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the caliper to it’s mounting bracket. Slide the caliper out of the way and secure it in place so as not to bind or put pressure on the brake line.

3) Remove the two 17mm bolts circled below holding the mounting bracket to the hub. (Ignore the fact that the strut assembly is removed from the hub, you don’t have to do that.) Remove the mounting bracket and brake pads off from the rotor.

4) Remove the rotor from the hub. It should just wiggle right off, but it could be stuck on there good. You may need to get two bolts the proper size to push the rotor off the hub.

5) Now you need to decide what to do with the dust shield. There’s 3 possibilities, each involve snipping off part of the shield:

• Replace it with the larger 87+ dust shield
• Cut/Trim it to fit the rotor
• Remove it completely

“Can’t be done. The tabs where the axle carrier (hub) mount to the struts on 85-86 are too thin to accommodate the wider 87+ hub assy. And larger bolts are used on the 87+, as well. You’d have to shave down the edge of the hub and drill the holes in the strut to do this. Ah…so I’ll just change the entire strut assembly…solves that problem, right?

“Next problem…the big metal pieces that the strut arm and control arm bolt to (that are bolted on right behind the engine compartment) are different. No problem…I’ll just shorten the control arm by using the 87+ arm and thereby account for the fact that the 87+ axle assembly’s control arm mounting point sticks out farther. Wrong. The angle is too steep and you end up with an amazing amount of rear wheel toe-in. )…

“Okay…so those damn mounting blocks need to be swapped, too. Wrong. The mounting holes on the frame are in different spots between 86 and 87+. Only one really lines up and without significant modification, those 87+ blocks simply won’t bolt on. Even IF you managed to do all this, remember to swap your ball joints while you’re at it. The mounting bolts for the 87+ are much larger and the 86 ball joints won’t bolt up. “

• Remove the three bolts holding the dust shield on the 87+ assy.
• Cut a wedge out of the bottom of the dust shield wide enough that you can wiggle it free of the hub assy.
• Remove the 85-86 hub the same way.
• Slide the 87+ shield on the 85-86 hub.
• Note points of interference, especially where the strut arm mounts up.
• Cut away material or bend as necessary to make the shield work.

Remove the 3 torx bolts. Just use a 10mm socket to remove them. Here’s a pic of the bolts, there’s a third one on the opposite side as well. You have to go at these at an angle, becuase the hub is in the way. It also took a pair of pliers on the nut driver to get these loose.

Now the dust shield should be loose. However, you can’t just pull it off over the hub. So you need to cut a slot in it so you can. Do that in the spot below with a dremel or rotozip type tool.

I ended up having to cut off more than indicated above, since the metal was not as flexible as I thought. Used the side-cutting bit on a Rotozip. Here’s the dust shields off, to show you how much you need to cut off.