• T3/T4 50trim Turbocharger (nocash kit)
• Supra Twin Turbo 540cc/min fuel injectors
• Apexi S-AFC
• Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator
• Two stage water injection
• Greddy Intercooler
• K&N FIPK Intake
• Apexi AVC-R boost controller
• Ross forged pistons

Session 1

Fuel Pressure – 43psi

AFC Values:

Boost: 1.10kg/cm^2 (15.6psi)

Peak HP:185.6 @ 6460

Peak Torque: 197.3 @ 4807

Wideband datalog

Notes

Running very rich as expected

Session 2 – repeat of session 1.

Peak HP: 179.1@6476

Peak Torque: 186.8@4680

Session 3 – Same run except increased boost to 1.20kg/cm^2 (17.0psi)

Peak HP:229.7@6116

Peak Torque: 206,1@5501

Notes

Still running rich – AFR went from 9.35 to 9.79 near peak power.

Comparing Session 1 and Session 3 – 17.0psi in red.

Peak power increased 43HP from 1.4psi of additional boost. Strange kink at 5000RPM on the higher boost run.

Session 4 – Same as session 3 except fuel pressure lowered one turn.

Peak HP: 245.1@6097

Peak Torque: 211.8@5620

Notes – AFR increased from 9.75 to 10.25 around peak power. Peak HP increased 15.6HP.

Comparing session 3 and 4 (session 4 in red):

Session 5,6 – Same as above except increased boost to 1.30kg/cm^2 (18.5psi)

Around peak power, AFR leaned from 10.25 to 10.45. Judging from the AFR, one would think that you would want to go more lean. This would have been my intention, but out on the road, I looked at the wrong part of the graph! So, I increased fuel pressure a half turn for the next run, which (naturally) made less horsepower.

Session 7 - Increased fuel pressure 1/2 turn.

Peak HP: 251.4

Peak Torque: 224.9

Notes – wideband certainly shows slightly more rich. Power dropped 6HP from 257, to 251.

Session 8 - increased boost to 1.35kg/cm^2 (19.2psi).

Peak HP: 266.0

Peak Torque: 234.1

AFR was about the same.

Notes -Increasing boost from18.5psi to 19.2psi increased peak HP by 15. Comparing runs 7 to 8 (19.2psi in red):

Session 9 – AFC Adjustments

Comaring runs 8 to 9 (run 9 in red):

Notes – Power dropped about 8HP. Not sure why – AFR was about the same.

Session 10 – More AFC adjustments going to put in more fuel (put some timing back in).

During this run the ECU detected detonation. This is based on the fact that the TVIS LED changed state whenever the throttle was in any other position besides closed. That is as soon as you touch the throttle the LED changed. After about 1 minute of driving the ECU returned to normal operation and also permitted full boost (TVSV LED). I do not know why there would be any detonation from a less agressive AFC setting. As you can see, the AFR was also rich.

Since the ECU returned to normal operation so quickly, I continuted tuning.

Session 11 – Same as above except changed 5500RPM to -4.

Notes – Power has returned. This run is very similar to run 8.

Session 12 – After a couple tries at other AFC settings, I ended up with this. This is after several other tries.

Comparing first graph (15.6psi) to last (19.2psi) – 3.6more psi of boost:

I drove the car with the above settings, and all seemed well – no detonation, and the engine seemed to be running very well. My only guess as to the detected detonation during session 10, is because of too much timing. I believe that the stock ECU is somewhat agressive with timing, and that is why such rich AFRs are required. Thsi is where an aftermarket engine management system would really help.

LoveHorsepower Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit Installation Video – Full Resolution – 115MB windows media format. Right click and save as to view.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Video Tuning Guide Video – Full Resolution – 92MB windows media format. Right click and save as to view.

Some of the pictures and notes from the video are presented here, but please see the video for the installation instructions and tuning guide. Also please see the fuel injectors removal instructions as the process is very similar since the fuel rail must be removed.
Here is the strut tower brace – remove the two 14mm bolts and two 14mm nuts.

Remove the four 12mm bolts holding on the throttle body inlet.

Remove the two 10mm bolts and the two 12mm bolts holding on the throttle body bracket.

Remove the four 12mm bolts holding on the throttle body.

Then move the throttle body out of the way without removing the coolant lines. If you would like to remove the coolant lines, it’s not a big deal, just be prepared for a small amount of coolant to leak out, and replace that coolant when installation is complete.

Remove the 12mm bolt supporting the EGR assembly, and disconnect the EGR electrical connection.

Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the EGR assembly to the intake manifold. See arrows on right of picture.

Remove the Allen bolts holding the EGR assembly onto the head. The EGR assembly can now be removed.

Remove the two 12mm bolts holding on the cold start injector pipe. There are two washers per bolt.

After the cold start injector is removed, unbolt the wiring harness from the intake manifold – two 10mm bolts.

Unbolt the three bolts holding the fuel rail in place. Pull on the wiring harness to move it out of the way, and then lift out the fuel rail.

Remove the 10mm bold holding the fuel inlet pipe in place, then remove the stock fuel pressure regulator.

Stock regulator removed:

Install the 90 degree fitting into the fuel rail where the stock regulator once was.

Connect one of the three barbed fittings included in the kit. There is no reason to use any teflon tape on this connection.

Attach the fuel hose and hose clamp.

Assemble the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with the fittings and fuel pressure gauge included in the LoveHorsepower kit.

Drill two mounting holes in the firewall at an appropriate location. Be sure that the top of the regulator will clear the hood when closed. Check that you have clearance to loosen the adjusting screw on top of the regulator – ie make sure that when the screw is full loosened, you still have clearance to close the hood. Use the fittings and hose clamps included with the kit to attach the fuel return line. Please use teflon tape on the gold colored fittings. All other fittings (blue) do not require any sealant.
LoveHorspower Regulator Kit installed!

Only adjust the base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected or with the engine off. Please see the installation and tuning videos!
Purchase a kit here!

LoveHorsepower Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit Installation Video – Full Resolution – 115MB windows media format. Right click and save as to view.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Video Tuning Guide Video – Full Resolution – 92MB windows media format. Right click and save as to view.

Check out a more detailed tuning page on the exact process we went through to tune the MR2 with the LoveHorsepower.com Regulator Kit, AFC, and boost.

• Apex-i S-AFC (Super Air Fuel Controller).
• LoveHorsepower Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit (Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator).
• Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Wideband Lambda Cable (Wideband Oxygen Sensor Kit).
• LoveHorsepower Stage Two Water Injection.
• 550cc/min Fuel Injectors from the twin turbo Toyota Supra.
• GTech meter – Pro Competition Version.
• TVIS (Toyota Variable Induction System) and TVSV (Toyota Vacuum Switching Valve) LEDs.

After the above components were installed, the tuning process could begin! First the S-AFC high throttle map was zeroed. The low throttle map was set to -7% at most RPM points. The Low throttle point was set to 30%, and the High throttle point was set to 50%. Our turning setup consisted of the GTech meter to datalog RPM, horsepower, and torque. A laptop was connected to the LC-1 kit to datalog air fuel ratios. We set out with a goal of 11.5 for the air fuel ratio when under full load/full boost. The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) was set to a base fuel pressure of 30psi with the engine off (no vacuum). All of our tests were done with water injection turned on using a two stage setup. The first stage (3 gallon per hour nozzle) coming on at ~9psi of boost and the second (5 gallon per hour nozzle) at ~14psi. Distilled water was injected.

All of our tuning runs were done in 2nd gear by zeroing the GTech meter, and starting off in 1st gear from a stop. We would accelerate normally up to about 3000RPM, then shift to 2nd gear and apply full throttle until ~7200RPM. The first run was done at 15psi of boost, and resulted in a very rich mixture, and poor performance. In fact, the engine was running so rich that below about 5500RPM the engine felt like it was bogging down. It was not happy at all!

Once we have the datalog from the LC-1 and the GTech meter, we could graph both of them on a computer. Then using a graphics program, the resulting graphs were resized to have a similar scale. Here is the result of the first run:

The top graph is the air fuel ratio (AFR) from the LC-1. The bottom graph is the HP and torque vs RPM from the GTech meter. As can be seen, power down low is very poor, and the fuel mixture is well below 10.0 during the engine run. Way too rich! You can also see how the power really nose-dives around 3000RPM where too much fuel starts to come in. The power graph is also very jagged, and indeed, it felt that way.

We then lowered the fuel pressure down to about 25psi, and performed another run. The engine was still running very rich, and was still bogging at lower RPM points, but not as badly. The decision was made to increase boost pressure to about 17psi. This resulted in still poor performance down low in the RPM range, but more pull up top, and with an AFR above 10.0 up top. While doing the tuning in 2nd gear, it’s a good idea to do some runs in 3rd to achieve a higher load on the engine at lower RPM points. This allows the turbo to spool up to full boost while the RPMs are still low (~3500RPM – 4000RPM). Detonation is more likely to occur under high loads and low RPMs rather than high loads and high RPMs. This is one of the reasons why F1 engines spin so fast – there simply isn’t enough time for detonation to occur at those engine speeds. When doing one of these tests, the ECU detected detonation. This was noticed by the behavior of the TVIS LED. When the ECU detects detonation, it will activate the TVIS under any throttle position other than closed. It is possible that the ECU detected what I’ll call false detonation. Sometimes by running so rich the ECU will think it has detected detonation. I’m not sure why this occurs, but it apparently does indeed happen. I also cannot say for certain if this is what happened at this point in time.

I then started new, and increased the fuel pressure to about 32psi. I then began to do more tuning runs again, this time only concentrating on the upper RPM ranges and using boost to get the AFR to come up. At about 18psi of boost (guessing from poor notes!), this is the resulting AFR:

As can be seen above time 14.0 seconds, (about 5000RPM) the AFR starts to come up. This is where the engine really starts to pull very well, even though it is still rich and not even reaching 11.0 AFR. More 3rd gear runs were done, and again detonation was detected by the Toyota ECU as indicated by the LEDs. Dang!

Since the engine experienced detonation, and were still running very rich, we restarted our tuning effort with a different strategy. I decided to increase the base fuel pressure to 38psi and work from there. Now I know what you’re thinking – you were already rich, and now you want to add more fuel? Are you crazy? Well – bare with me.

Certainly after upping the fuel pressure to 38psi, things were rich everywhere. I kept increasing boost slowly until I reached 22.6psi. At this point the upper RPM range (above 5500RPM) started to get close to 11.5AFR. It also really pulled hard up top here. Since the lower RPM ranges were still too rich, and taking fuel out with the FPR would have resulted in too lean a mixture up top, my only option left was to remove fuel with the AFC. One other important note, is that I noticed that the injector duty cycle was going to 100% above 5000RPM, pretty much regardless how much boost I ran (above 15psi). Since the ECU behaves this way, really, the only way to tune the top end is by adjusting fuel pressure. If you use the AFC to tune the top end, I would be very worried about too much timing being added in. So – off to tuning the lower RPM ranges with the AFC by taking out fuel/load. I was very cautious in doing this, and only took out 1-3% change per run, and checked to make sure there was no detonation, and that the AFRs were still good (and rich). I still wanted those ranges to be rich since by telling the ECU there is less load with the AFC, it will advance the ignition timing. After numerous runs, I came up with this:

As you can see, in the upper RPM ranges where the AFR comes up to about 11.4 it really starts to pull great. In the lower RPM ranges, it’s still very rich (probably could be made more lean with the AFC to help low end torque out). That said, at least it’s not in the low 9s anymore! Here are the AFC settings for the low and high map at this point:

This is a big improvement over our initial 15psi run with the AFC zeroed out – a gain of 81.6HP and 55.8ft-lb of torque with 7.6psi more boost pressure. How’s the T04E-50 trim turbocharger doing? At 22psi the turbocharger is operating is a good range on the compressor map. With a pressure ratio of 2.49, the turbo is pushing approximately 40.0lb/min at 7200RPM. At 4500RPM, it is pushing 25.0lb/min. Plotting these on the T04E-50 trim compressor map:

So, at 7200RPM the turbocharger is in a nice 75% island and cruising along somewhere between 105,620RPM and 118,700RPM. Now that’s some serious revs, and it sounds sweet too! Looks like we could run more boost – more tuning to come.

You will need:
8mm socket
philips screwdriver
rag
new dist cap
new rotor
I chose oem toyota replacement parts

Approx cost: $40

Approx time: 15-30min

1.  First off remove all the spark plug wires from the distributor cap.

A.  No need to mark them seeing as how the distributor cap and the wires should be numbered. (Verify this before disconnecting wires.  Mark with tape/marker if they are not.) 

B.  You may need to unhook the one vacuum hose to give you some more room.

7.  Reassembly is pretty much self explanatory, just reverse the process. Wipe off any oil or dirt before putting it back together.

A.  If there is a bunch of oil, chances are you need to replace the seals in your distributor which is a whole differant deal.

After replacing my cap and rotor I noticed better idle and acceleration immediately. I was delightfuly surprised and happy with the result.

Startup video after rebuild (right click and save-as).
Engine running video after rebuild (right click and save-as).

Here are the four pistons removed:

• Engine Removal Pictures

After the engine was removed from the car, the head was then removed from the engine.

• Removed Head Pictures

The block was then stripped of the accesories.

• Stripping the Block

The following machine work was done to the block:

• Bore cylinders 0.5mm over the stock bore.
• Clean and hone the block.
• Install 8.5 compression ratio forged Ross pistons, and Ross racing rings.
• Shot-pean the stock rods.
• Balance the rotating assembly.
• Install Clevite crankshaft bearings.

The block was then assembled and painted with high temp paint.

• Assembling the Block

The head was sent to Alabama cylinder head where it was cleaned, the valves were re-seated, and it was pressure tested.  After installing the camshafts, the valve clearance was set.

• Installing the Head

Here are some pictures of the engine before it was installed back into the car:

• Engine about to be Installed

The engine was then installed from the bottom.

• Installing the Engine

The break in procedure could be done as follows:

1. Right before starting for the first time, put a cap-full of oil into each spark plug well.
2. Install and torque the spark plugs.
3. Fill the crankcase with non-synthetic oil.
4. Start the engine, and immediately hold the RPMs around 2000RPM for 1 to 2 minutes.
5. Set the ignition timing.
6. Bleed the coolant.
7. Drive the car gently until hot.
8. Use 50% throttle in 4th gear between 3000 and 4000RPM, then snap the throttle shut.  Use the lowest boost possible.
9. Repeat 10 times, then use 60% throttle, and up to 80% throttle – repeating each different throttle position multiple times.  This should help seat the rings.
10. Drive the car at under 4500RPM for about 200 miles at varying loads and RPMs, then change the oil.
11. Drive as above until 500 miles.
12. Change the oil again, and crank up the boost

(note: these pictures are over a year old, and there have been some subtle changes to the kit, so your kit may not appear EXACTLY the same as the one pictured)

Here is a picture of the kit in it’s packaging, after I removed it from the box:

Here is the kit unpacked:

(note: the turbine housing ceramic coating is optional. All adapters come ceramic barrier coated as a standard feature of the kit)

Here is a close-up of the turbocharger:

Here is the turbo after I spent an hour or so, polishing the compressor housing:

Here is a picture of the kit after I polished the turbo, down pipe, and dump tube. The down pipe and dump tube have a fine, semi-polished finish, so it only took a couple of minutes to bring the shine up by hand.

The Install

First install the adapter to the manifold:

Next, install the turbo to the adapter:

Next, install the down pipe to the turbo:

Install the oil feed line to the block, using the supplied fitting. (note, the fitting pictured is different on my kit, because I had a 5S block, which was drilled and tapped for 1/8 BSPT)

Now bolt the oil drain line to the turbo, using the flanged connection. After that, you can install the manifold, turbo, and down pipe into the car as a unit, which I feel is one of the strengths of this kit. The complete assembly is quite heavy, so get a friend to help with this part if you can.

Once the assembly is in the car, reinstall the exhaust manifold nuts. After they are secure, you can attach the oil feed and return lines. The return line attaches to the stock rubber elbow that comes off the oil pan, and normally attaches to the metal CT26 oil return pipe:

This is a good time to install the down pipe support bracket to the block:

Now you will measure the distance and routing for your water feed and return lines, and cut them to length. We leave this part for the end user, in case they have custom requirements, due to a 5S block and water lines, etc. Here is how I routed my lines, using the 3S water pipes:

Note: if you’ve never cut SS hose, the easiest way is to wrap black electrical tape around the diameter of the hose where you are going to cut, then use either a hacksaw, or an air powered cutoff wheel to make the cut. Rinse the hoses out well afterward.

You can go ahead and reinstall your b-pipe, if you haven’t already, and you are finished underneath the car.

Now that all the lines are installed, assemble the dump tube to the wastegate, and then install them as a unit to the manifold adapter. [b]Do NOT use the gaskets supplied with the Tial wastegate. The flanges have a smooth enough finish to seal without the gaskets, and the gaskets invariably blow out within 48 hours of install.[/b]

Go ahead and install the O2 sensor, and your hot pipe, intake, etc. The rest of the install is a piece of cake.

Here are some more pictures:

Boost Control and wastegate line routing

If you are using an MBC, leave the port on top of the wastegate open to atmosphere. Route a vacuum line from the hose barb on the compressor to the “In” on the boost controller. Run another line from the “Out” on the boost controller to the side port on the wastegate.

If you are using an EBC, you can either connect it as above, or if it has a switch to change the logic to control an external gate, like the Blitz DSBC and SBC-iD, you run a line from the barb on the compressor, to the side port on the wastegate. Install a T in this line and run a line from the 3rd leg of the T to the “In” on the boost control solenoid. Run a line from the “Out” on the solenoid to the top port on the wastegate. Be sure to set the head unit to “Wastegate”.

(on the DSBC, this is accomplished via a dip switch on the rear of the head unit)

All in all, this is the easiest turbo kit install I have ever performed. Being able to almost completely assemble the kit outside the car REALLY makes it easy, as opposed to other kits I’ve installed, where you had to install the turbo to the adapter, and down pipe to the turbo while lying underneath the car, working in the confined space of the engine bay.

• T3/T4 50trim water cooled Garrett turbocharger

• Tial wastegate

• Necessary fittings/gaskets for wastegate

• Manifold

• Down-pipe and wastegate exhaust section with flex pipe

• Hoses/fittings to install oil and water lines

• Bolts for wastegate, down- pipe, and exhaust

• 1 page installation instructions.

Here are a couple shots of the kits contents:

The turbocharger!

Comparing a modified CT-26 50 trim with the T3/T4 hybrid 50 trim:

The manifold.  Unfortunately the first and second manifolds that I received were warped.  Here is some pictures of the first manifold that I  received.  This manifold was tapped by Autolab to accept two 1/8″ NPT EGT probes.

The down-pipe.  This down-pipe includes a flex section for the wastegate to vent back into the exhaust.

The installation

The first thing that I did was to do several test fits to make sure everything fit together, and to get the turbo ‘clocked’ correctly.  Both the inlet (compressor) and outlet (turbine) side of the turbocharger can (and need to be) be clocked.  You will want to have the oil outlet (larger oil line) facing the bottom of the car toward the oil pan.  Be sure that the fittings do not interfere with the bolts used to clock the turbo once you have the position you want.  You will want to mount the turbo to the manifold and test fit it in the car after test fitting outside the car.  This way you can also be sure that the intercooler pipes line up correctly and don’t hit the exhaust manifold.

Here are some test fits outside the car.  This includes hand tightening the turbo, manifold, down-pipe and wastegate together.  You can also just check to see how the fittings will go into place.

Couple shots of clocking the turbo.  I found it best to clock the turbine side outside the car and aim the oil outlet toward the oil pan.  Then loosen all the bolts on the compressor side, and lightly tighten one.  Install the manifold/turbo assembly in the car, and move the compressor side to the desired position.  Then tighten at least one bolt and remove the assembly.  Check again to make sure that the water and oil fittings don’t interfere with any bolts.

You can use the boost signal nipple from the stock turbocharger in the new turbo as shown.

I used Teflon tape on all the threaded fittings, and locktite on the turbo to down-pipe, and wastegate bolts.

You can install the ‘blue’ portion of the water fittings before installing the turbocharger.  The front water fitting (red) can also be installed now, but be sure to aim it in the correct direction before installing the turbocharger.  Install the oil line.  The kit comes with the union bolt already containing the line and fitting.  This makes it somewhat difficult to tighten when installing, but can be done OK.  I used the stock washers on the bolt.

You can now bolt the turbocharger and wastegate to the manifold.  Install the air nipples to the wastegate.  Do NOT install the oil return line at this time.  I did that in the following picture, but it is much easier to get the orientation of this fitting correct by installing it after the turbo has been installed on the engine.  You need to make sure that the hose going from the oil outlet back to the pan does not touch or get too close to the down-pipe.  Also, on any water lines, install the included hose onto the fittings before bolting them to the turbocharger.  These hoses are an incredibly tight fit on the barbed fittings, and requires serious muscling to get them into place.  You may also opt to install a hose clamp on them as well.

Water fitting before installing onto turbo.

Install the manifold/turbo/wastegate assembly, and hand tighten the exhaust manifold bolts.  Most of the exhaust manifold bolts cannot be gotten to with a torque wrench, and hence have to be tightened (later) with a standard wrench.  After the assembly is in place, you can install the water lines as shown:

The down-pipe can now be prepared to install.  I just used some gasket maker (copper) sealant on the matting surface between the turbo and down-pipe.

Install the four bolts and lock washers that are included with the kit.  I found one of the bolts very difficult to get to, but eventually managed to get it to turn using a universal joint and small socket wrench.  Some of the bolts are easier to install from below.

Socket wrench/joint.  Arrow marks bolt location. 

The oil dip stick must be bent to avoid contact with the wastegate.

Connect the down-pipe to the wastegate using the supplied two Allen bolts.  These two bolts can be difficult to get to given their location.

Next up is to install the oil return line.  I had to install the fitting and remove it a couple times until I got the orientation correct.  You will use the stock rubber hose along with the hose and adapter included with the kit.  Try to keep the hose away from the down-pipe.

Install the oil inlet steel braided line.

Install the stock O2 sensor.  Unfortunately it is very tight between the wastegate and the O2 sensor which makes installing it difficult since you cannot see the bolts you’re trying to tighten.  In addition there is little clearance for the lower bolt and a wrench is needed.

The water hoses supplied with the kit, while being high quality, do not fit the stock metal lines very well.  The supplied hose is slightly too large.  I used some 1/4″ fuel hose and copper tubing to make a ‘bridge’ pipe between the two.  I put the copper tubing inside the 1/4″ fuel hose, and put that inside the stock rubber hose and hose supplied with the kit.  You can also use electric tape and wrap the metal stock fittings so that the hose fits better.  Be sure to check for leaks!

Install the intake pipe which fits nicely over the machined turbo inlet, and all the other hoses (PVC, blow off valve, etc.).  Happy boosting!

Intake spec is between .15 and .25mm.
#1 both between .178mm and .203mm.
#2 left between .203mm and .228mm – right between .178mm and .203mm
#3 both between .203mm and .229mm
#4 left between .178mm and .203mm – right between .152mm and .178mm

Exhaust spec is between .20mm and .30mm.
#1 left between .254mm and .279mm – right between .305mm and .330mm
#2 both between .279mm and .305mm – left is slightly tighter.
#3 both between .279mm and .305mm
#4 both between .229mm and .279mm – right is slightly tighter.

Amazingly after 127,000 miles none of the intake valve clearances were out of spec in the slightest!  In this case, I decided to change out the #1, #2, and #3 exhaust valve shims.
The shims can be removed without using Toyota’s SST (special service tool).  I used an Allen wrench and a screwdriver.  It is a good idea to put tape around the screwdriver tip so as to avoid scratches.  The Allen wrench can be used to push the valve down – then the screw driver is placed between the camshaft and the lip on the bucket to keep the valve spring compressed.  The shim can then be removed using a magnet finger and where necessary pushing it a little with another smaller screwdriver.

Once the shims are removed, it is a good idea to label them (ie Exhaust #1, left side).  A caliper can then be used to measure the thickness of the removed shim.

Once the thickness of the removed shim, and the valve clearance with the old shim in place is determined, a value can be calculated for the new replacement shim that will put the clearance back into Toyota’s specification.
For the intake, the formula is N = T + (A – 0.20mm)
For the exhaust, the formula is N = T + (A – 0.25mm)
N = new shim thickness (mm)
T = old shim thickness (mm)
A = measured valve clearance (mm) with the old shim in place.
For this I took the average of the value that would fit and the value that would not fit.  For example, if I measured with the feeler gauge that .279mm would fit, but .305mm would not, I would average those values to come up with 0.292mm for the ‘A’ value in the equation.  For reference here are the measured used shim thickness that I found for the #1, #2, and #3 exhaust valve shims.

Exhaust #1 – Left 2.794mm   Right – 2.794mm
Exhaust #2 – Left 2.8956mm  Right – 2.8702mm
Exhaust #3 – Left 2.8194mm  Right – 2.8194mm

The calculation for the new exhaust #1 left shim would be:
2.794mm + (0.2665mm – 0.25mm) = 2.8105mm.
Toyota supplies shims from 2.00mm to 3.30mm in increments of .05mm.  So here we have a choice of 2.80mm or 2.85mm.  I choose 2.80mm.

The calculation for the new exhaust #1 right shim would be:
2.794mm + (0.3175mm – 0.25mm) = 2.8615mm.
Here I choose to use the 2.85mm replacement shim.

I choose to purchase a new valve cover gasket along with the new shims from Toyota.

The new shims can then be put in.  Again, using the Allen wrench and a screwdriver to hold the bucket down, the new shims can be put in.

Once the new shims are in place, the valve clearance should be re-checked.  In my case, one of the shims was too tight and another was too loose, but by using some of the old shims, I was able to get them very close to 0.25mm.  The valve cover can then be installed – use some silicon sealant to seal around the camshafts and distributor (6 places in all).

The throttle body, spark plug wires, EGR valve, and various piping etc. can now be re-installed.

The water injection setup originally used two pressure switches to turn on two solenoids at different boost pressures.  In order to have better control over the turn on point, I decided that it would be best to use an electronic switch to control the two solenoids.  By doing this I could also have the added benefit of three different flow settings from the same two solenoids.  The controller uses an LM339n quad comparator and three potentiometers to set three different ‘turn on’ points for the two solenoids.  The first potentiometer sets at what voltage (and hence boost) the first solenoid will turn on.  The second potentiometer sets the boost pressure where the second solenoid will turn on, and also where the first solenoid will turn off.  Finally, the third potentiometer sets the boost pressure where both solenoids will turn on.  Currently, I have the first solenoid connected to a 5 gallon per hour nozzle, and the second solenoid connected to a 10 gallon per hour nozzle.  Flow rates will then be:
1st potentiometer setting: 5 gallons per hour (315cc/min)
2nd potentiometer setting: 10 gallons per hour (630cc/min)
3rd potentiometer setting: 15 gallons per hour (946cc/min)
Note that the above flow rates are assuming 100psi of pressure at the nozzle and does not take into account boost pressure (ie differential pressure between pump pressure and boost).  More information on the water injection setup can be found here.

Construction

The components to build up the water injection controller consist of the following items and were all purchased at Radio Shack.

1. (1) LM339n Quad Comparator

2. (3) 1k ohm resistors

3. (4) 10k ohm resistors

4. (1) general purpose diode

5. (1) 5 volt regulator

6. (3) IRF 510 MOSFETs

7. (3) 10k ohm potentiometers

8. (2) 22uF capacitors

9. (1) Prototype board

10. (1) Project box

11. Wire wrap tools, wire, and 14pin wire wrap style socket for the LM339n comparator

12. (4) Potentiometer knobs (only need three, but they come in packs of two).

Basic schematic of the controller:  

The following picture is the completed controller board.  The bottom three devices are the three FETs used to turn on and off the solenoids.  The top left device is the 5 volt regulator – a really nice device that takes any input between some 9volts and 36 volts and makes a rock solid 5.0volts.  Towards the middle of the board are the four 10k ohm resistors and towards the top right are the three 1k ohm resistors.  Toward the top right of the board is where the diode is located, and below that is the LM339n quad comparator.  Difficult to see in the picture are two 22 micro farad capacitors.  One is tied between the output of the 5 volt regulator and ground, and the other is tied between Vcc and Gnd on the comparator chip.  These should suppress some noise in the power source of the controller.
 

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Operation

The circuit consists of four simple comparator circuits.  Comparators 1, 2, and 4 simply give a voltage to the gate of their respective IRF510 MOSFET so that it will start to conduct.  This then supplies the load (solenoid) with a ground, completing the circuit.  The third comparator is tied in with the 2nd, so that when the 2nd comparator turns on, the third will also turn on.  The third comparator, however, doesn’t supply a positive voltage, it supplies ground instead and is connected to the output of comparator 1.  This causes the voltage seen at the gate of MOSFET 1 to be 0, and hence turns off the first solenoid.  When comparator 4 turns on, it turns on MOSFET 3, which turns on solenoid 1.
The 5 volt regulator was used because the boost signal is a 0 to 5 volt signal, and using the +12v battery for the potentiometers would prove inaccurate since this voltage can vary significantly.
Inputs to the controller are:

• Boost signal (0-5 volts with increasing voltage indicating more boost).  I used the signal from the APEXi AFC-R electronic boost controller, but the stock signal could be used as well.

• +12V switched with the ignition

• Ground

Outputs are:

• Solenoid 1 ground

• Solenoid 2 ground

The solenoids share a common +12 volts ignition switched power supply.
To set the three potentiometers, I set the #2 and #3 potentiometers to their highest setting (ie big boost to turn them on).  With the engine off and the ignition on, I set the #1 potentiometer just a little above atmospheric pressure.  Then went for a drive and set the other two, doing trial runs to get the settings right.  It involved adjusting the potentiometer, running under boost and seeing where the turn on point is via LEDs that come on with the solenoids.  I set the first solenoid to come on at about 3psi of boost, the second solenoid (and first off) to come on at about 10psi of boost, and both solenoids to turn on at about 15psi of boost.  In watching the LEDs while driving, once the second stage is hit, the third stage comes on so quick that it’s easy to miss.  In these couple videos (1: WMV format, MPG format, 2: WMV format, MPG format) you can see the first stage come on (red LED), then the second (greed LED) and third follow so rapidly that the red LED just seems to just dim out for a second during the very short time the second stage is active.

Completed Water Injection Controller Box

I used Velcro to install the controller box behind the drivers seat.

Other Uses

The controller box could be used for a many other electric items that are desired to be switched with a rising input signal (voltage) from 0 to 5Volts.  The IRF510 MOSFETs can support 5.6amps of continuous current and 20amps of pulsed current.  Other uses could include:

• Staged Nitrous Oxide solenoids based on boost pressure or throttle position.

• Staged fans (of 5.6amps or less) using a temperature voltage signal.  The fans could be configured to have either the 1st or both fans on by only adjusting the 1st and 3rd potentiometers.

• Intercooler misting solenoid(s)/pump based on throttle position or boost pressure.

• Anything else you want to turn on/off with rising throttle position, boost, or any 0-5 volt signal.