3VZ-FE toysrme?
4VZ-FE JDM?
5VZ-FE Found in 1995.5-2004 Tacomas, 96-02 4runner, 95 T100(Rumor has it this was a Disti 5vz),00-03 Tundra -Weasy2k

1MZ-FE 94-99 Avalon, 94-02 Camry, 99-02 Solara, 98-03 Sienna
1MZ-FE*^ 03-04 Camry/Solara
1MZ-FE* 98-99 es300/rx300, 00-04 avalon/sienna 01-04 highlander
2MZ-FE* JDM?
3MZ-FE*^ 03-05 highlander, 04-05 Sienna, 05 camry/solara, 03-05 RX/ES 330

1GR-FE*^ 05 Tacoma
2GR-FE*^ 05 Avalon, 05 Rav4
3GR-FE*^
4GR-FE*^

2GRS-FE* IS350!!! i want!

* vvti equip
^ Drive by wire

Note: a Supra engine WILL NOT FIT!! it’s an inline6 get with the program!!

Drive by wire:
Out of all the new v6′s only the vvti 1mz never had it. the 3mz and gr series are all equip with it. There is also the +03 camry/solara too but they don’t have vvti. I wouldn’t suggest anyone to use these unless you plan to use a gr engine. Other wise you’ll have to deal lag; the pedal is designed for fuel economy in mind….

Transmission: The following transmission will work with some modification
E153 – although big compared to the s54 it’s much stronger and can take a beating. Mr2 transmission may need to have it’s dowel pins remove to fit on the block. I didn’t document the number of bolts used in a mr2T bellhousing as im using a v6 bellhousing w/ internals. but from my understanding it will cover more than the s54. Theres also a plus to using this tranny since some comes with LSD.

S54 – Opposite from the tranny above the mounting holes need to be enlarge.

note: if using an e153 on a n/a chasis you need the rear turbo hubs, axles and shifter cables

Clutch/Flywheel:
You need a v6 flywheel from any of the engine listed above that came with a manual transmission. With the exception of the vz’s truck flywheel. The MR2T flywheel will not work as the crank pattern is different; you can weld/redrill it but that will just compromise the strenght of the flywheel. Using a e153 you can use a stock turbo cluch setup but if using a s54 you need a E153 pressure plate and a s54 clutch combo (splines on the tranny is different)

Carrier bearing:
Every v6 from my understanding has one except for the longitudinal mounted ones like the 5vz’s. BUt if your using an S54 the axle doesnt need it. This is only for those using the E153. The bearing on Mr2T axle needs to be moved about 1/4″ left or right im not sure anymore it’s been too long.

Motor Mount:
In an Mr2 setup there are 4 mounts; 3 sits on the transmission and the other sits on the waterpump bracket (passenger side). You only need to make one mount for the passenger side. I suggest buying a spare driver side mount from the transmission and shaving off the plating and build a mount around it. You also need to reinforce the metal cylinder around the rubber mount because it has a weak spot. Mitch has a draft for the plate that goes ontop of the water pump bracket.

Exhaust:
Other than the 5vz where the exhaust joins ontop of the tranny, they will merge under the oilpan. Headers that come with precat are not usable as they will hit the motor mounts. Theres too many variants but i’ll just leave it for the exhaust shop to deal with

1992-1996 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6, 185 hp (137 kW)
1997-2001 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6, 194 hp (145 kW)
2001-2003 3.0 L 1MZ-FE* V6, 220 hp (164 kW)
1997-2001 2.5 L 2MZ-FE V6, 200 hp (149 kw) at 6000 rpm with 180 ft·lbf (244 N·m) at 4600 RPM
2004-2005 3.3 L 3MZ-FE* V6, 230 hp (172 kW)

1GR-FE* 236 hp (183 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 ft.lbf (382 Nm) of torque at 3800 rpm
2GR-FE* 268 hp (200 kW) at 6200 rpm with 248 ft.lbf (336 Nm) of torque at 4700 rpm
2GR-FSE** 315 hp (232 kW) at 6400 rpm and 377 Nm (277 ft.lbf) at 4800 rpm
3GR-FE* ???
3GR-FSE** ???
4GR-FSE** 204 hp at 6400 rpm with 265Nm of torque at 4800 rpm

*single vvt-I
** dual vvt-I

The 5vz-fe has proven strong parts, when the TRD supercharger is used, good power can be made. Even safely if you add fuel!

Why the 3vz-fe is superior

Mostly ECU reasons:

It’s OBD-I ECU is the least trouble code throwing, least caring ECU in the line-up. I have tuned 720cc injectors to run on an N/A 3vz-fe acceptibly.

It does not throw/store codes from o2 sensor feedback – even if it is massively different. Black smoke rich to engine melting lean. It doesn’t care.

1mz-fe’s have horrible over sensitive knock sensor problems. 3vz-fe’s do not.

Like running a mild turbo, or N/A without much in the way of fuel/ignition tuning? The 3vz-fe has the large Denso AFM, and a distributor. Stock, off the bat leaning the AFM cog & adding 7* of timing (17*btdc base) advance puts the 92-93 3vz-fe 185bhp to the 94-97.5 3vz-fe’s 200bhp.

200cc stock injectors are Bleh. But with a combination of a walbro 190+, FPR, and either an extra injector, or larger injectors (330cc @ 41/43psi), you can run up to 300bhp out of one without touching the ECU if you don’t want.

Yes… You can install a FPR, 550cc’s, and a Walbro 255 & use the AFM cog to tune over 350bhp… All without a piggyback. it has been done. You will need lots of money, as you will rich so ungodly rich you’ll get stuck at the gas pump.

The 3vz-fe ECU is very accommodating when it comes to closed loop changes. Don’t like the fact that a normal ECU likes to run stoich under boost until open loop? 3vz-fe’s are not prone to tuning such changes out. If they do, we have it covered with $10. A relay +wire
3vz-fe also has a neat ability, transforming it into what essentially stand alone.
Run the TPS’s output (VTA) through one side of a double pole double throw (DPDT) relay. Take the 5v TPS/AFM supply (VC). Run this through the other side of the DPDT relay.
Trigger the relay however you want, when you want to enter open loop mode. Be that all the time, a $3 ebay boost pressure switch, or an output for your piggyback.
Because of it’s ability to run massive size injectors compared to stock, it doesn’t care!
OBD-I > OBD-II
1)easy tuning
2)the one fuel trim change do not continue through open-loop

Afraid you’ll miss OBD-II’s anal retentiveness for troubleshooting?
The 3vz-fe has you covered. Tho the ’94 1mz-fe had the world’s first complaint engine/ECU, the 3vz-fe’s do have an ace up their sleeve.
Diagnostic mode II. Yes… The 3vz-fe is the only v6, and one of two OBD-II Toyota’s with DIAG2! This can’t even be entered with the ECU OFF! It has to be done with the engine running! It will throw every code possible instantly. Guess what happens when you trigger it & you’re not moving more than 6mph? Yep, wheel speed sensor code. All your temp & o2 sensors haven’t warmed up? Ya – count all them too. Along with a half dozen other codes.
Anything triggers anything in DIAG2.

All MZ block engine’s have a 139mph hard speed limit.
All 3vz-fe’s have no limit… You need power VS Aerodynamics to do 190mph.

Mechanical side:

The 3vz-fe itself is *highly* resistant to detonation. Many times more than a 3vz-e, 1mz-fe, or 5vz-fe is. The most resistant to detonation of any of the v6′s. I have personally run 22* of maximum advance over 6000rpm with my SMT-6 with no pinging. On Chevron 87.
Another ported & polished 3vz-fe went to a drag strip to test ignition timing. A base timing of 20* (stock is 10* universal to all v6′s/normal Toyota engines) produced no pinging, but poor performance. On 87 octane.

The 3vz-fe has the strongest stock rods used on any v6. They are massive.
Huge… Iron… Block… We don’t need sleeves, we don’t need block work to lay down 600whp. It’s too similar in construction to a 3000GT’s v6 not to say maybe even 900bhp+.
Other than the cast pistons, the 3vz-fe is stronger part for part than any other v6. It has yet to be seen if the biggest stock 3vz-fe can take down the biggest stock 5vz-fe. Why?

Because Neither Sean, nor I have set out to do it yet.

Like oil? 3vz-fe’s don’t. Yes, even 3psi at a cold idle is in spec… If you’re not on the gas, they don’t have a ton of oil pressure. This is great for turbo life.
FYI Camry 3vz-fe’s have no oil pressure sensor installed while ES 300/Windom’s do.
As long as the red light of death is off – you don’t have an oil problem, no matter HOW bright the yellow low oil level light is! (That’s an inside joke. I killed my OLS when I installed my turbo oil return somehow.)

3vz-fe redlines a 6850rpm, and the fuel cut is at 7100rpm.
Toyota RPM gauges read very, very slow I have logged my engine at 7400rpm on my SMT6… A 5vz-fe would come apart at that rpm without cams, valve springs & other work. Not us. (We have very diminishing power on stock cams after 6000rpm, however it’s best to shift at 6500-6900rpm to stay in powerband)

We don’t waste money on cams… Our engine has the biggest powerband (except maybe a 5vz-fe) under 3000rpm. We have OVER 100whp at 2000rpm. Yes… That’s right… Only a 3vz-fe has the power to spin tires on the Camry platform!

We get HUGE gains from head porting!!!
Seam McElligott got 30-35bhp.
I did my MYSELF and got 25-30.
A Camry owner had his done and got 25, possibly 30.
What do cams do on a 3vz-fe? Turn it into a 1mz-fe! <BLAH!> A cammed 3vz-fe made 220bhp on an MR2 with zero powerband.
We make 220bhp off P&P light N/A tuning, & a y-pipe… And still have the massive low rpm powerband.

The fully built N/A 3vz-e’s made 320bhp.
A fully built N/A 3vz-fe should then make 370bhp. Hey… If two extra valves are good for 50bhps tock, they should be worth it built too!

The downside is that the 3vz-fe has stock cast pistons. Not a problem when you run the correct amount of fuel, however 1mz-fe’s ahve cast pistons WITH a coating. They are minutely stronger (I say minutely because no 3vz-fe has hurt it’s bottom end, stock 1mz-fe’s have melted rings & pistons by running slightly lean at lower power levels than have been achieved by 3vz-fe’s)

Despite what anyone says, the 5vz-fe has one important edge. Displacement… 11.7% displacement advantage will ALWAYS equal an 11.7% power advantage when comparing the same basic setup.
If you have money, this doesn’t matter. A source once had a machinist calculate how far you could possibly stroke a 3vz-fe. 3.7L. The supposed kit that was coming from that was going to cost $4000+, and stroke to 3.5-3.6L.

I’ve worked on them all. Had a hand in one turbo 3vz-e, then turboed another from scratch. Turboed mine a few different odd ways so far. Rebuilt my 3vz-fe more times than you will ever want to know. Worked with 1mz-fe’s & worked on 5vz-fe’s.

3vz-fe JDM’s have no EGR. US’s can be throw away & blocked off. 1mz-fe1′s? Nopers!
3vz-fe’s have EVAP, but don’t care if you throw it away. 1mz-fe’s? Nope!
3vz-fe loose their 5-10bhp from carbon over a few years. 1mz-fe1′s have HORRIBLY over used EGR systems. What a 3vz-fe builds up over a few years, a 1mz-fe1 builds up in 9 months. Guess what, that new 1mz-fe you bought? if the entire intake track hasn’t been cleaned in the last 9-12 months, you can subtract 10bhp.

3vz-fe’s are non-interference. 1mz-fe1′s are also, 1mz-fe2′s are not.
My 2 favorite demonstration pictures of all time.
Don’t think that’s important? I destroyed my first OEM timing belt doing a top speed run when I got to 143mph, but still made it home.

I split my second within min of if running the first time. Shutup. They were installed correctly…

Is a 3vz-fe perfect? No. is it more perfect than everything else? Yes.
It’s the pinnacle of old & new engine design & controls when it comes to tuning.
SMT-6, or SMT-7′s kick other piggybacks’s asses.

Lastly, I like them & own them, so they’re instantly 36.8427545% better than what anyone else owns!

Things to remember:
Cap off coolent hoses
Protect fuel lines from contaminants and dont loose the banjo bolts and crush washers.
DONT CUT your wire harness, if your using a stock ECU you will be grafting the old MR2 harness into your V6 harness.

Keep the stock starter relay, you may remove the fan control and the stock ECU

The following is exactly the same for 3s or 5s swaps.

When your engine arrives check it over for sludge. Keep in mind some of the V6′es have been in grandmas car and may not have seen much attention.

This motor is a 5VZ but the swap is nearly identical to all other swaps. Notice the complete lack of motor mount on the front of the engine.

This is the 3S flywheel sitting on the 5VZ crank. I suggest replacing the 5VZ flywheel with a 1MZ wheel rather than modifying the 3s wheel.

The 3S-GTE pully fits right onto the 5VZ crank, the 5S pully should too. Remember to RE-mark the 4cly crank pully, the timing marks are in a different location than on the v6

You can not use the 5VZ spacer plate because the starter is on the opposite side. You will need to “modify” the 3S or 5S plate.

1MZ flywheel with MR2 TURBO pressure plate and disk

Here you can see an issue with the axel from the turbo transmission and the 5VZ block. There is no mount location for the axel holder. You will need to make an adapter that will bolt into the motor mount location.

Yes you CAN drop the motor and transaxel in from the top, by yourself I would say even the 4.0 v6 should fit through the top.

Here you can see a prototype adapter for the turbo axel. This should give you a good idea of how everything could bolt up without needing to machine the axel .

This is the coolant outlet on the 5VZ. Since its from a truck it faces the wrong way and needs to be cut and reshaped. I used an angle grinder, torch and bigass hammer. EDIT: the plastic 3VZ-FE coolant outlet bolts up and requires no moddification

 Here is the Cummings turbo coolant F pipe that works perfectly as a coolant fill pipe and heater core hose.

Sorry these are blurry but it serves as a warning to everyone planning a swap. You should get your ECU, harness and, engine from the same year. Toyota was nice enough to move some pins around between 96 and 98 so I had to MAKE my own ECU connector with DB25 computer pins and hot glue. Can you say “GHETTO” I think I can

You can swap all the mount plates from your 5s ECU or 3s to the OBDII ecu and it will mount in the stock location. I have an intercooler pipe running through there so I mounted it on the trunk floor.

Good luck.

Jim

[AndrewMcG]

I thought I would add a couple picks to this thread since I have yet to see any real good pictures of Jim’s motor mount actually mounted on the engine. I had a hard time picturing it until I had one in my hand so I hope this helps somebody.

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Four – 3/8″ barbs (3/8″ = 9.5mm)
Four 3/8″ hose clamps
6′ 3/8″ Fuel/Oil hose
Ultra Black RTV
You will need a tap for your barbs if you don’t have one. $2.50 shipped – ebay

Instructions:
There isn’t anything to say that isn’t obvious. Take the stock Toyota oil filter stand- off & cut it in half. Tap (& drill if needed) the channels to accept your hose barbs. Put your sealant around the threads & tighten (15ft-lb, or pretty hand tight is good enough).
From there you have the one end that bolts to the block & the other that has the oil filter. You can relocate it anywhere you want. You can easily add dual filters, and/or an auxiliary oil cooler.
The half where the oil filter goes is pre-tapped with two plugs at the ends of the oil channels. One can be removed to install an oil pressure fitting, or a hose barb (1/4″, or 3AN) if you need a turbo / supercharger oil supply.

********************

For people not able to drill out their own channels, it may be hard to find 3/8″ barbs that do not require drilling holes out before tapping them. I had my local Nut & Bolt house order me some to my specification. (9/16″-18 NPT w’ 3/8″ barb)

*Note* If you’re not afraid of under sizing the , 5/16″ barbs are very common. The thread size is generally 9/16″-18 thread. The tap will fit straight into the oil channels without drilling.
So if 3/8″ barbs are unavailable, you can always try common 5/16″ barbs. (0.375″ VS 0.3125″). I wouldn’t add a cooler on 5/16″ lines, but otherwise there shouldn’t be a problem.

This part is used only on the 3.0L Camry platform as far as I know. The reason for the part is because the y-pipe does not give clearance for the oil filter.
This will bolt to any 3vz-fe, 1mz-fe, 3vz-e, and 5vz-fe. Possibly other VZ/MZ v6′s.

Here’s the 3vz block – (3vz-e picture)

]]> http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk2/1125/feed/ 0 http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk2/solving-the-valve-cover-gaskets-permanently/ http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk2/solving-the-valve-cover-gaskets-permanently/#comments Sun, 04 Dec 2005 03:17:35 +0000 Darkday http://www.midshiprunabout.org/?p=1123 I didn’t write this for yall, as most of you guys have obviously not experienced leaking valve cover gaskets. (yet) I figured maybe some of you guys doing your swaps could save a lot of trouble for yourself down the road.

This is a “your thoughts” thread. I’m not saying this is how to do it (Tho This is what I’ve done).
(For the remainder of the thread VCG – Valve Cover Gasket. RVCG – Specifying the REAR Valve Cover Gasket, FVCG – You are a moron if you need this definition)
It’s obvious Toyota’s implementation for the v6′s doesn’t work. Blame whatever you want, but there is no arguing the fact that it simply does not work. Worse, nearly every engine has a VCG leaking to some extinct, almost EVER engine will have the RVCG leaking over time.

IMHO it’s from a culmination of two things:
1) I don’t like the groove style VCG. The flat engine’s use corker, rubber”ish”, or rubber/steel core gaskets & have less problems. Not only that, but it is advantageous in that if it is ever replaced (for any reason) you simply use a tube of gasket maker & the seal is nearly indefinite. When applied correctly, they won’t leak until you break the seal!
2) Improper valve cover gasket bolt torque. Even tho the rubber gasket provides some tension on the cylinder head bolts, the spec is 4.3-5.75ft-lb. They easily get loose, or are extremely over tightened when repaired.
3) 1 & 2 are compounded by the huge rearward angle the v6′s are tilted at.

So I’m sick of it. Sick of hearing about it. Sick of most of us considering it a “routine maintenance” item that should be replaced every time someone is going near them. “Oh well you’re getting X done, Have them do the VCG’s before they start to leak!” etc.

Here’s how I think we deal with it once & solve it for the last damn time.

Supply list:
Ultra Black RTV. RTV is *the* gasket “brand” of choice by everyone. Ultra Black is a premium line, and Permatex’s most oil resistant RTV gasket. Even better. It is apply & go. (Non-premium RTV’s need time to setup when mounted & some need to be re-torqued.) It could take 2 tubes. I used 1.
Thread Locker (Medium – Loc-tite & Permatex Blue)
M7-1 Tap
Acetone, Paper towels, Q-tips. (Ya, ya Alcohol works, Acetone just eats oil so much faster tho! Ventilated area for both)
Scraper (or something with a flat edge you can level with)

1) Clean the gasket mating surfaces with Acetone. I find you can push paper towels through the groove, but a few Q-tips make very short work of it & you can be sure you’ve cleaned it thoroughly.
2) Completely fill the groove with RTV & scrape it flat so that it’s a flush surface.
3) Run your tap down the threads of the valve cover bolt holes. This will clean the threads up.
4) (After the RTV has cured – 24 hours) Apply your “normal” 1/4″ bead of RTV as a normal application.
5) (IMMEDIATELY) Put valve cover on & bolt it down. Since we’re no longer using a “light pressure to seal” gasket. Torque the valve covers down to say 18-20ft-lb.
Using online calculators: The stock bolt & hole threads have a Recommended Torque of 15.2 ft-lb & Maximum Torque of 20.2 ft-lb (Not freaking 4-5ft-lb!?)

I don’t think it would be wise to drill & tap for a larger size, though someone could. It’d be hard to drill large enough to have good threads, without having some huge bolt running down it. (I just don’t think there is any reason for like an M10. Those would hold 40-50ft-lb! That’s above the head gasket range!)

1992-1996: 1MZ-FE
Compatible, but not recommended.
Early 90′s 3vz is proven to work also*

Source Cars:
Avalon
Solara
Lexus ES300
Camry

What to Buy / Get with Engine:
“remember to get a 97+ manual motor w/ ecu or you will have drama”

– Engine Long Block -dugh
– Transmission (97+ recommended, not required for Turbo owners)
– AC Compressor
–Alternator*
– AC Lines to compressor (cut)
– Alternator
– Engine Mounts
– Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there)
– ECU
– ECU Harness (uncut)
– Dash Plugs that go to ECU
– Tachometer from 97+ 1MZ-FE Car (only if you started with a NA tach
– Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)*optional
– 94+ V6 Intermediate Shaft (with 6 bolts on CV joint) *must be modified
Credits -derek2000GT

Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read
There aren’t really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don’t worry about upsetting your balance.

Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT)

There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you’d like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003)

Engine Mounts: General
Someone should definitely post some blueprints here.

“In total there are 5 possible mounts–3 for the tranny and 2 for the engine (anterior and posterior). The passenger side 3S-GTE/5S-FE engine mount must be abandoned if you anticipate putting a supercharger on (and who doesn’t).” -chall

I have built two motor mounts that use the pass side mount. Complete fabrication of all mounts is not necessary but recommended if you want a mount to absorb any engine noise.

Fuel Return: Adapting Properly
The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accomodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from a 3VZ-FE which is a direct fit.

3VZ-FE Option
“This is old news to Camry guys but a 3VZ-FE return fuel rail system will bolt right on to 1MZ-FE. this set up gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. …if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in.

…if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail i would highly reccommend the 3VZ-FE rail install…save time and will be 100% OEM.” -derek2000GT

Tapping the Rail Option
“The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system.” -chall

I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars.

Tachometer: Get it Working
“You will need to buy a tach from a 97+ 1MZ-FE equipped car. (AVALON, CAMRY, SOLARA, SEINNA, ES300) The tachs are the same on all models and will bolt right into cluster w/ no mods at all.” -derek2000GT

“It is almost scary how plug and play most Toyota parts are, at least in this swap. The tach looks virtually identical to the stock MR2 tach (the mechanical part that attaches to the back of the face). …we found that the tach slips right in and, thud, no tach adaptor needed.” -chall

“You will need the tach overlay for an NA MKII MR2. It has a 180 deg sweep with a 6300 redline. As oppesed to a 180 deg sweep 7000 redline/ 7250 revlimit Turbo gauge. Without it your tach will be completely inaccurate. It fits and has the same font/ look as other MR2 gauges.” -Luke

I have also used a 1k ohm resistor and diode hooked to two of the negative sides of the coils and used the stock tach. If I’ve not updated the link, I will shortly.

BUT:
“The block-transmission bolt patterns on the 5S-FE, 3S-GTE, and the 1MZ-FE are the same. Any transmission that works with one engine should work with any of them.” -chall
(This includes manual transmissions)

Some Info About VVT-I
VVT-I Engines availble only in automatic, until 2003. (Manual Tranny bolts on though)
Wiring / ECU issues will need to be addressed, due to automatic transmission errors
TRD is developing piggyback VVT-I ECU, available 2003

A piggyback VVT-I controller is neccessary to properly run. (Wolf EMS: http://www.wolfems.com.au) -derek2000GT

Driveshafts: Adaption and Conversion
“The V6 intermediate shaft (A) bolt right to MR2 CV joint on passenger side. ….Use a V6 intermediate shaft that has 6 bolts on CV joint which is same a MR2 so you can bolt to outer MR2 axle” -derek2000GT

The 93+ Turbo drivers side driveshafts should fit properly, without any adjustments.

*EDIT*

Please see the FAQ on this, you will have to machine a new C-clip for the driveshaft to work. No one has successfully found a shaft that will correctly fit the V6 mount and MR2 tranny. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. (I want specific model and year info along with a quick photo if possible)

Radiator hoses I used
(1)71704 Hose to connect to the factory pipe in the engine bay, left side.
(2) 80413 Heater hoses 90 degree bend on the end.

These hoses work real well. I had to cut them to fit,but have the correct bends and are reasonably priced.

The right side hose will be a little harder, but consists of cutting the pipe under the car, rotating the bend roughly 90 degrees, and routing the hose up the firewall just on the outside of the Belt. I will post pics of this when I’m finished later this week.

Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified, see SCC’s how to install a V6 for the most simple solution.

**Pete94t**

IF you don’t want cruise, you can re-route the main line under the car to the driver’s side and it’s the perfect length to the throttle body, with no junction boxes the pedal feel is better.

**Edit**

This works well, I have this done on my Yellow 91.

**Chall**
Technically speaking, the solara/camry transmission is the E351, not the E153, and I think this denotes the difference in drive gear ratios and final drive. Also, the synchros are much better than in the ’91-’93 turbo transmission. If you have the turbo transmission it will work, but you run out of first gear more quickly. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. this lets you get rid of the speedo cable, which removes one of the major hassles of taking the MR2 guage cluster out. Of course, you will need the linkage from an MR2 transmission and also need to drill a hole to use this linkage on the solara tranny–easy to do.

The half shafts are turbo on the driver’s side, and solara on the passenger side only because there is a 1/8″ or 3mm*** difference in the carrier bearing position. Turbo shafts will fit nicely in the solara transmission. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. It is impossible to combine the two shafts to make one as the type of CV joint on the solara shaft is enclosed and the diameter of the shaft in the CV joint is smaller.

Personally, I think that the passenger side mount for the engine should be abandoned altogether because you cannont add the supercharger and you will definitely want to add the supercharger. Front and rear engine mounts are not hard to fabricate and I have autocad diagrams of one design, but not the only design by any means.

–I have lowered my compression ratio by using 8.5:1 JE pistons and Eagle 22R rods but the rods take machining to thin them for the 1MZ (by .135 per side) and they are about .012 different in their C-C. But you can get them on Ebay and they are an initial $350 investment plus whatever it costs in your area to machine them. When and if you order pistons, let them know so that you can get pistons with the piston pin positon correct.

–I would use the 1MZ alternator. What Luke and I did was to attach the wires to the alternator using simple electrical connections and pouring epoxy around the connections so that now we have an alternator that has the long wires attached.

Claire

*** Edit by Brad, Original was 1cm

**Chall**
If I am understanding correctly, you are asking whether the turbo transmission without LSD uses the same axles as the LSD E153 and the Solara 351. I put a Toyota MR2 LSD into a Camry 5 speed (year 2000) and it uses the MR2 axles that I had machined to move the carrier bearing retainer groove. Of course, the differential defines which axles are used in these transaxles, so using an MR2 LSD (which fits exactly) guarantees that the turbo axles will work.

I don’t have succesful experience with mixing axles. I tried it but perhaps I used a too new axle to try to change the intermediate shaft, as the newer axles from the Solara/Camry are entirely different from the ’90/’95 US MR2 axles. It cost me $50 to have the turbo axle machined, and I thing that was kind of a rip-off.

Here is what I think about the swap:

–Not much needs to be done to the 1MZ-FE itself unless you are going to more than 4 PSI of boost. Derek has found that the return fuel system from other engines works well, or you can simply drill and tap both ends of the fuel rail and make a U-shape out of it to make a return system.

–You can use the stock Solara/Camry ECU, auto or manual, with the wiring diagrams that Luke worked out.

–I would abandon the passenger mount and make front and rear engine mounts for the 1MZ-FE so that you can supercharge later.

–I would abandon the turbo/NA water system after the main pipes beneath the gas tank, and connect more directly with a couple of pipe bends.

–I would get rid of the brake booster line across the firewall.

–I would move the oil filter with a remote kit.

–I would have the passenger axle machined.

–If you want A/C, have the MR2 lines tig welded to the 1MZ-FE lines. There may be much better solutions; I don’t know.

–You can direct connect the cruise control to the throttle and the throttle body very simply, but you have to move the throttle cable to the drivers’ side.

–I prefer the ratios of the Camry/Solara transmission E351 over those of the MR2 E153.

Overall, this is a simple process and should not take long if you prepare for it.

**SBCelicaGT**

1MZFE engine debuted in 1992. in 1997 it was updated with among other small changes, a returnless fuel system. later on it had VVTi as an option. all 3 generations of engine are aluminum. the 92-96 return fuel rails will bolt to the gen2 engines. or you can make your own returnless fuel system and it doesnt require any drilling or tapping.

axles: all the solara/avalon/sienna/ etc. axles I have seen arent rebuildable. I.E. they dont have the bolts in the middle to attach the inner and outer sections.

the mr2 turbo inner axles work just fine with the Solara tranny. the only mod you need to do is to slot the carrier bearing mount ever so slightly as it will be off by a few millimeters. For the celicas, you can then bolt outer alltrac axles to the inner turbo axles. for you mr2 guys, you can just use the whole turbo axles.

ecu: auto tranny ecu will work but you will have ECU codes till you find a way to fool the ECU into thinking there is an A/T in your engine bay by way of wiring resistors to the ends of the solonoid plug. Easy fix.

Eagle rods for the 22R will work. You will need to do the following: