Threaded lower section allowing you to lower the car and keep your spring/strut travel normal.

 

Height with Suspension Technique Springs and KYB AGX struts.

 

Rear engine side panel screw #1.

… and #2.

Here are all the things to remove. From left to right, Swaybar endlink lower section. 2 knuckle bolts. Brake line attachment to the strut body.

Using a flathead screwdriver and hammer, pop out the retaining clip (I don’t have them on mine anymore, so I can’t show a pic). If you’ve never removed the brake lines before, use a dremel, and cut a small break into the middle here. Do not cut into the brake line.

Bend the tab down, and remove the line.

Disconnect the Swaybar Endlink using an Alen wrench and 14mm wrench.

Remove the two 19mm knuckle bolts/nuts (not pictured).
Unbolt the 3 upper bolts, and remove the rear suspension from the car. It can be tricky, I always pull the bottom out on the rear side of the car (as opposed to pulling it to the front first).

Measure the length of the stock suspenion from the hole on the swaybar endlink tab to the end of the strut. Set the K-Sport rotating endlink tab to the same distance, and lightly lock it down with the two alan screws. Do not totally tighten them yet as you may need to adjust it when it’s in the car. Mine sits towards the outside of the car about 1/4 of an inch rather than straight towards the rear like stock.

Pop the new suspension up through the hole. On my car, I had to slightly drill out the hole that is furthermost to the outside of the car.

 

Time to pop the lower knuckle into position.

I used a small jack underneath the balljoint to raise the lower carrier assembly into place.

Lock down the knuckle bolts. Be sure to use one of the black brake line tabs and install it on the lower bolt if you need it. If you use a crashbolt, place it in the upper section, and pull the top of the disc towards you while tightening down the knuckle bolts. A 2nd person helps with this step.

 

Set the rotating swaybar tab secion and make sure it has clearance from the body of the car, but don’t give it too much room otherwise you’ll mess up the geometry of the setup, and it can also touch the tire if too far out.

Install the stock rear endlink.

 

I used a piece of wood and jack to raise the swaybar into position. Don’t move it too much or you could damage the swaybar attatchment points.

Rear all done.

Installed.

 

Moving on to the front. Undo the knuckle bolts, then the swaybar endlink. Remove the brakeline from the strut body the same way you did the rear one.

Remove the 4 top bolts, and pull the suspension out of the car. The front is much easier to remove than the rear.

Setup the front suspension this way. I moved the center over one slot to the inside of the car, then used a medium crashbolt to pull the wheel out at the top to give a decent negative camber.

Install the K-Sport front suspenion, and loosely tighten up the top bolts. Pop in the knuckle bolts (remember to install the brake line connector to the bottom bolt), and tighten them down (if using a crash bolt, pull the top of the disc towards you as you tighten). Using a screwdriver and a hammer, tighten the lower black collar.

Install the brake line and clip or zip tie it down.

Install the K-Sport front endlink, and lock it down after adjusting the length.

Front complete. This is the height I got by leaving the lower rotating section flush with the strut housing. I should have lowered it about an inch rather than keeping it flush.

I have never done this before on any car so it was all new to me. I knew several methods of removing them and didn’t think it would be difficult at all. Overall it was not difficult but I had some issues.

I have my complete control arm and strut rod off the car in one piece with the ball joint still attached.

I first attempted to use the hammer method. I removed the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut up to the top. I then placed a washer on top of the nut and started smacking it with a medium sized ball-pein hammer… didn’t come out.

So I figured I would try it on my newly purchased press. The press is more than enough to push it out but getting the item in there properly so it sits level and is resting on the area between the boot and control arm was not easy. I ended up getting some metal that was laying around and I had it all setup so it should push it straight out. After beginning to apply pressure the angle iron I had (1/4″ thick) started to bend… ball joint still not out.

After this I figured I would look for a price on the SST to do this. Partznet showed nothing so I searched on Google a bit to find it or others similar and didn’t come across anything except a pivot type separator.

I went back into the garage and figured I would try the pickle fork. I am not a fan of these because they can easily tear the boots and my ball joints were not showing signs of needing to be replaced. Infact they were showing signs of being replaced recently.

I got the pickle fork out, and then I thought about using a 2 jaw puller instead. Put the pickle fork back and found the 2 jaw puller.

I set it up so the two jaws of the puller were inbetween the boot of the ball joint and the control arm. The push rod of the puller was then directly on top of the ball joint stud. I started to tighten it down and before you knew it the ball joint was out.

Here is a picture of how I setup the puller on the second control arm. Once in this position all you do is crank the puller down with a wrench and in seconds the ball joint is out.

I will be calling Toyota one of these days to price the SST for this, if it is too expensive for me I will just continune to do it in this manner.

You may want to attempt to loosen the top strut bolt before jacking up the car.  This is the bolt located under the strut tower cover and is a 19mm bolt.  If the assembly moves when you turn the bolt, it can be removed later.  Only loosen this bolt a small amount, under no circumstances should you remove this bolt at this time.  Jack up the car, and remove the wheel. 

Rear Struts:
Rear strut assembly (spring, housing and strut) before removing:


Start by removing the anti-roll bar that connects to the strut housing.

Then remove the brake line ‘C’ clip, and brake line from the caliper.  Hang the brake line out of the way.

Remove the speed sensor cable, but do not remove the speed sensor.

Loosen the top four bolts that hold the strut in place, and then remove the large lower bolts.

The assembly can now be removed after removing the top four bolts.  You will have to push down on the rotor/hub to get enough clearance to remove the strut housing assembly.  It’s a good idea to put some sort of rag (underwear) to protect the CVT boot.
 

If you loosened the top strut bolt (19mm) before, it will make the next step easier.  If you are removing stock springs, you will need a spring compressor.  Please be careful as there can be a large amount of energy stored in the spring!  With the spring compressor installed, remove the top 19mm bolt and spring.  
Removing the gland nut can be difficult.  Soaking it in WD40 or other penetrating lubricant can help.  Then a pipe wrench and vice can be used to remove the nut.  I choose to paint the old components, and then install the new strut.
Pour a small amount of oil into the housing, and install the new strut.  The oil should take up the space between the strut and the housing.  Make sure not to over-fill it since you will need some space to tighten down the gland nut.

Then install a new boot.

Next the spring.

Lubricate the top piece.

Install the top using the 19mm bolt and spring compressor (if necessary).  Make sure to point the top mount piece toward the large bolt holes on the strut housing.  Tighten the bolt using a torque wrench and vice to hold the top.

Install the rear strut by pushing down on the hub/rotor and move the assembly into place.  Hand tighten the top four bolts.

Install the anti-roll bar to the strut housing.

Install the brake line and speed sensor line.

Don’t forget the ‘C’ clamp on the brake line.  Tighten the large bottom two bolts to 180ft-lb.  Tighten the top four strut assembly bolts to specification.

Front Struts:
Here is the old assembly in place.
 
The first step is to remove the anti-roll bar hook up to the strut housing.  This can be done in two places.  I found it easier to reach the bottom location.  You will most likely need a hex driver and 14mm wrench to remove this bolt.

Next remove the brake line.  You must remove the ‘C’ clip on the strut housing and the bolt on the caliper.

Then hang the brake line up with a string or wire so that it is out of the way and not dripping.

Next remove the speed sensor bolt.  You do not need to remove the sensor itself, there is plenty of slack in the speed sensor cable.

The four top strut bolts can now be loosened.

The large bottom bolts can now be removed.

Now the hub can move out of the way.

The top strut bolts can now be removed, and the whole spring/strut/strut housing assembly can come out.  
If there are stock springs installed, you will need to use a spring compressor to compress the spring so that it doesn’t fly off when you remove the strut bolt (19mm) at the top of the strut bar.  If you have loosened this bolt earlier on, great!  Otherwise you will have to hold the assembly in a vice while removing this bolt.  I’ve found that the Eibach springs I had installed didn’t need to be compressed.  Please be careful as there can be a large amount of energy stored in the springs.
Now comes the hard part.  Removing the gland nut can be somewhat difficult.  I recommended soaking it in WD40, or some other penetrating lubricant.  Then remove it with a pipe wrench.  If this doesn’t work, you can try to put the assembly in a vice, with the vice holding the gland nut.  Then use some extensions to twist the assembly.

Pour a small amount of oil into the housing, and install the new strut.  The oil should take up the space between the strut and the housing.  Make sure not to over-fill it since you will need some space to tighten down the gland nut.

Install a new boot.

Install the spring.  Line up the ‘larger end’ with the bottom.

Clean out the bearing and re-lubricate them.

Line up the top strut mount so that the ‘OUT’ faces the part of the strut housing that points toward the outside of the car (the part of the strut housing with the large bolts).  It also must be lined up with the top of the strut bar as shown.

You may need to use a spring compressor in order to tighten the 19mm bolt.  If you cannot tighten the 19mm bolt to the torque specifications, you can install the assembly, lower the car down, and then tighten the bolt.  Point the top piece (four studs) with cut-out toward the back of the car.

Install the assembly and just hand tighten the top four bolts.

Tighten the lower two bolts to 180ft-lbs.

Re-install the brake line, C-clip, and bolt for the speed sensor line.  Tighten the top four strut assembly bolts to specification.

Adjustable KYB AGXs:

There are really 4 sizes of crashbolts available for 91-92 cars. Stock, Large, Medium and Small. The crashbolts have a smaller diameter on the inside part that holds the wheel on than the stock bolts. Basically, all you do is replace either one or both of the stock wheel spindle bolts for each of the wheels. They are pretty cheap (a few bucks each), and can make a great deal of difference in your cars cornering ability. You can install crashbolts in many different configurations to get differents amounts of negative camber. I chose to install one crashbolt for each wheel, and to use two of the smallest (Toyota Part # 90105-15006) on the top knuckles of the front wheels, and two of the medium size (Toyota Part # 90105-15005)on the top knuckles for the rear wheels.  

Always remember to support the car securely with stands, and not just use a jack.  

Here you can see me holding a crash bolt above the stock bolt I am about to remove and replace.  

Once you have the new one(s) in, and have both bolt loose, have a friend help you by pushing on the top , and pulling on the bottom of the assembly, then tighten them up to at least 150 ft lbs of torque (I reccommend 180 – 200).  

Before and After shots  

The pipe was cut, hammered into shape, and holes drilled in the ends.  By repeatedly fitting them, and re-hammering, new braces were made.  Old braces vs new braces before painting:

Finished:

Installed (passenger and driver’s side):