Fuses

Tools required: None

Difficulty: If you can’t figure this out after reading my writeup.. Step away from the car.

Probably the easiest thing to check is the fuses.

First you need to get your fuse removal tool. Go to the engine compartment in the back and find the fuse box (as shown below). Note: The fuses you are looking for are NOT located back here. You just need the tool to remove the tiny fuses.

Now grab the white thing I’m pointing to in the picture below.

Neat huh?

Now go back up to the frunk and find the fuse box and take the cover off. On the underside of the cover you will find a diagram, situate it so the fuse pattern matches the fuses themselves (it’s easier then it sounds once you look at them). I included a picture of the diagram situated as though you were standing on the side of the car next to the fuse box. I also put two red arrows pointing to the fuses you will need to check.

Now take your tool and remove the fuses to inspect them.

What you’re looking for is a broken wire. This means the fuse is blown, I have a comparison below.

The one on the left as you can see has a solid wire all the way through. It is fine, but the one on the right has a break in the wire. That means it’s shot as was mentioned before.

If you do have a blown fuse fear not. Toyota thought of everything and included a couple of spare fuses of varying ratings. Make sure you pick the one with a 30 on it if you do end up having to replace one of the fan fuses otherwise you will just blow out your brand new fuse once the fan kicks in. I circled the spare fuses in the picture below.

Relays

Next up are the relays.

Tools required: A multimeter and probably some 14 gauge electrical wire.

Difficulty: Easy as pie.

This first picture is a well written set of instructions on how to do this. I am mostly guiding you on a few (very) basic points it doesn’t cover for this part of my how-to.

The relays are located in the same fuse block and the fuses were. I’ve put arrows going to the relays you need to check in the picture below.

Pull one out and set it upside down somewhere.

Next you will want to set your multimeter up so it is measuring resistance (ohms). This picture shows mine setup to do just that.

A little side note, I went to lowes to get a cheap multimeter and they had one for 15 bucks but there was only one left and it was opened. I’ve had that one before but lost it or something and it worked just fine. However the one shown in this picture was bought at advance autoparts for 16 dollars and I can say for sure it is of much higher quality.

Now you will want to connect the wires up to the electrodes as shown to check for continuity. If you do have continuity you will get a reading (for example 100) if there isn’t any you will just get a 1 like is shown in my picture above.

The motors themselves

Tools: Your hands.

Difficulty: Stupid easy

Another easy test is to see if the motors work. I want to make it clear this test isn’t going to give you a definitive answer but it can help to point you in the right direction. Basically all you have to do is spin the fan blades and see how long they keep spinning. If one spins a lot shorter ammount of time it could mean it’s either dead or on it’s way out. Here’s a video showing a aging motor.

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b221/dar…es6-24-0830.flv

If the motor is bad here’s a writeup for replacing that.

The grounds

Tools: Wire stripper/cutter

Difficulty: Easy but not necessarily for the total idiot.

I don’t have any pictures of this but I can tell you how to do it. Basically you just need to cut the ground wire of your motor and try to ground it to the chasis of your spyder by stripping the insulation off and attaching it to some piece of metal on the car. To attach it you can just tape it and I’ve heard using liquid tape can be a good idea as well.

Tools needed:
10mm socket for battery removal
12mm socket for (-) battery cable flip
14mm socket to remove rear strut crossbrace
Dremmel with small cone grinder and small cutting bit (comes with most Dremmels)
3-5 zip ties to attach any loose hoses and wires
Pliers, to bend (+) positive battery bracket
Box cutter, or sharp knife to notch Red plastic (+) positive battery cover & white plastic battery tray
Rustoleum paint

Remove rear strut crossbrace 14mm
Disconnect the (-) battery terminal
Disconnect the (+) battery terminal
Unbolt battery hold down nut 10mm

Remove battery from car

This is the diagonal brace thats just behind the muffler and leads down to the rear lower brace.
Next #1 in pic snap off tab with pliers. I just bent it back n forth until it came off.
#2 use Dremmel with cone grinder to enlarge the hole so the stock battery hold down bracket tab will fit in the hole. Just need to open the hole a little.

Next take the white plastic battery tray trim off the corner as seen in #2 so it can fit in to the space.
Then with the Dremmel cone grinder or a large drill bit make the hole as seen by #1 in this pic. This hole is for the J-Bolt to hold down the battery to the rear crossbrace

Looking down you want to line up / mock up the battery top tie down brace with the hole you enlarged and drop down the J-Bolt to get an idea where to make your hole for the J-Bolt to go.

Look at this as your mock up, see how the battery will set in the space.

Looking down Use the dremmel with the cutting bit (looks like a small metal circle ball with fins) The space is tight, at a 45* angle to drill a hole large enough so the J-Bolt will fit. You don’t need to go to low just about 1/2 inch from the top of the rear member.

I painted the hole, using Black Rustoleum to prevent rust
After you make the hole place the J-Bolt thru the white plastic battery tray and into the new hole as seen in this pic

Bend the (+) positive battery connector as seen in this pic

Next flip the (-) battery terminal cable ( unbolt 12mm and flip over)

Next unbolt and turn this (-) battery terminal cable body ground as seen in this pic, then re-bolt

Place the battery into its new location with the terminals being closest to the tranny/old battery location. Next #1 slide the battery hold down bracket into the hole, then #2 attach the J-Bolt to the battery hold down bracket and tighten bolt 10mm so battery is held into place. When done the battery will not move at all. #3 zip tie the wires to this spot.

Bolt on the straighten (+) positive battery cable to the (+) positive post on the battery. Next cut/notch the L-shaped Red plastic (+) positive battery cover and snap into place as seen in this pic

Next attach the (-) battery cable to the (-) battery post as seen in this pic

Top view when done, Zip tie any loose hoses & wires

After rear strut cross bar is reinstalled & I put a piece of aluminum diamond plate in to old battery space for a home made cold air box.

List of tools:

30 mm 12 point socket to remove the drive shaft nut (Ace Hardware)
14 mm 6 point socket to remove most bolts on tranny, engine mounts
17 mm 6 point socket to remove the two top tranny bolts and control arms
12 mm 6 point socket to remove battery tray, top engine mount bracket, ground wire to tranny
10mm 6 point socket to remove neg on battery etc
22 or 24mm 6 point to remove oil drain plug
Different length
extenders for sockets and universal joints for some angles to get socket on the bolts
1 Large flat head screw driver or small “pry bar” to pop off driver side axle
1 Jack two is better
3 Jack stands, two to hold up car one for engine when tranny is out (or jack to hold engine up)
Braker bar ( most tranny bolts are on with 50 ft lbs or less) not to bad
*2 cargo straps one with ratcheting ( time saver and makes removing / installing the tranny SO MUCH EASIER)
Dremmel or small hack saw to cut out small piece of the front engine mount to access the clutch release cylinder (so you don’t have to disconnect and bleed the clutch system)
1 Step stool
1 funnel
1 roll of paper towels

Now for the fun.

While the car is on the ground loosen the 30mm bolt holding the axle shaft. Make sure you bend up the locking tab on the nut I used a hole punch then a screw driver.

Remove the rear crossbrace (14mm) then battery and air box all the way up to the intake.

Remove the battery tray assembly 12mm

Remove the two pins holding the shift cables make sure to mark one of the cables to know which one goes to which pin. I use a paper towel and wire to mark the longest cable.

Remove the back up plug, bolt to ground wire 12mm

Remove the bolt holding down the wire harness to the transmission 12mm

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the rear of the car

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the front of the car. Its not easy to see but with a long screw driver or pry bar you can move around the engine hoses & wire harness to put on the socket

Now jack up the car and make sure you use jack stands. I have the smaller type 2 ton, you’ll need to raise the car high enough to slide the tranny out. I went three or four exposed notches.

When under the the car I started with the starter bolts 14mm

Then the two bolt holding the clutch cylinder 12mm

Then remove the the engine long bolt 14mm or 17mm and the three bolts 14mm holding the mount to the car and the bolt at the rear lower transmission 14mm

Remove the holding clip and then cut out a notch with a dremmel to slide the clutch cylinder out

Remove the two 14mm bolts behind the header. You might need extensions and universal joint with the scoket & ratchet.

Remove the lower tranny bolts 14mm

Remove the lower control arms bolts 17mm. The nut with the dial remove. The other control arms you must turn the bolt not the nuts. The nuts have a spike on back of them that will not let it turn. The bolts are the way to go.

Remove the three amigo header bolts and pop off the down pipe (you don’t need to remove the down pipe)

Place a oil pan under the tranny then remove the oil drain nut 22mm or 24mm. drain the oil.

I used an air chisel fork to pop off the axle a large flat head screw driver or small prybar will work (the air chisel fork was used as a pry bar only not hooked up to an air source, the bit has a turned up side like a fork has and that gives it a little more leverage). Turn the other wheel a little at a time until it just pops off. Don’t force it, keep turning the other wheel a little at a time until it comes off there is a C-clip that needs to slip down so the shaft slides out.

Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 4 bolts 14mm to the car.

This part you’ll need a jack to support the engine and lower it a little to slide out the tranny (only one engine mount will be attached) don’t drop it to low. Also, I used a jack stand as add comfort, I placed it an inch lower (just in case)

First replace the strut crossmember brace, then tie off one end of the cargo strap to it and wrap it around the bell housing through the engine mount brackets and hook or tie off ( leave slack to lower the engine two to three inches) Then place the jack under the oil pan closet to the bell housing, I used the first rib line. Don’t place it under the lowest widest part of the oil pan, that is where the oil pick up is and you don’t want to damage it. Depending on how high your jack goes, up I used a 4×4 the same length as my jack, my jack is small 2 ton. Jack up the engine just to take the load off the mount.
Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 3 bolts 14mm to the tranny

The arrow pointing to the left it where I place my flat head screw driver to pry the bell housing a little.

At this point slide under the car and slide the tranny to the wheel side. All its wight will be supported by the cargo strap. FYI the tranny weighs around 65 or 70 lbs. not to heavy

Go back up and lower the tranny using the strap to the ground, slide it out.

Putting it back

Slide the tranny back under the car wrap one of the cargo straps back around the bell housing through engine mount brackets over the strut crossbrace like before.

New part: next place the ratcheting cargo strap around the small end of the tranny. You want to angle the transmission up into place parallel to the engine. You want to zig zag the straps up.

Rotate the tranny in the straps to align the tranny up. I was turning the tranny counter clockwise a few times when I was ratcheting it up.

When you have the tranny line up with the straps slide back under the car and push the tranny up and towards the engine. If its aligned up it will slide into place fairly easy. When you feel the drive shaft slide into the clutch your all most home. Make sure the bolt holes line up and the two pins and it should pop into place. I hand tightened the bolt just under the “pin” next to the header and the lower bolt closer to the firewall, then snug them down. Then put in the top two bolts and work your way around. Do the starter bolts after the Driver side tranny mount is installed.

At this point you should have 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine. Two large 17mm bolts on top two 14mm on the bottom and one 14mm bolt by the header. reattach the driver top engine mount bracket 3 12mm or 14mm bolts to the tranny then jack the engine/tranny up so you can slide the thru bolt to hold the tranny and engine mount together. The jack under the engine can come out the engine is supported by the two mounts. Then do everything in reverse and don’t forget to fill with gear oil.

Best of all we can use this cap (12mm bolt) at the top of the transmittion to fill with oil (no mess), unbolt and turn, its held in with a gasket

The final step filling with a funnel.

** IF YOU DON”T GET THE PINS TO LINE UP WITH THE BOLT HOLES SOMETHING IS MISS ALIGNED.** most likely the clutch is not centered after a clutch change. Don’t force the tranny in, just lower and check the clutch by loosing a few bolts on the housing and recenter the clutch and tighten it back to spec

This morning I taped off the parts and started to coat the calipers.
Rear Before & After two coats

Front Before & After two coats

After waiting three hours I applied the LT SPYDER decals.
Front

Rear

All done and wheels on.
Rear

Front

You should have everything apart and the key focus is the hard part which is passing the cable though.

Step Two

You need to cut the cable here.

The cable will now pass though this bracket so there is no need to remove it. If you chose to remove it good luck as there is a bracket for the fuel line in the way and the bolts are next to impossible to remove due to the limited space. In my opinion you don’t need this bracket. It would be nice but as long as the cable passes though you should be fine.
.

You can see the bracket thought the hole but its not easy to take a picture of it.

Step three.
You will want to remove two 12mm bolts that hold the fuel tank closest to the engine and let the tank hang down a little. This is not dropping the tank because there are bolts on the other side which hold the tank in place. This is so you can make a little more clearance for the thickest part of the new cable to pass though.

Step four

You want to remove this bracket because you will not be needing it.

Step five
You will now pass the new cable from the cabin to the bottom of the car. Just push it though and if you feel like there is blockage pull back and push again until it freely passes.
Because you have dropped the tank a little it will have enough clearance to pass though.

Thats it. Not so bad but it would be worse if you need to remove and install that bloody bracket which in my opinion has no use except to have it hang upwards which the cable does naturally anyway.

Rear swaybar installation parts list:

1. Addco 7/8 swaybar
2. 2sRus High and Tight rear endlinks
3. Energy Suspension greaseable bushings (9.5158G)

Tools required:

1. Jack, stands
2. 14mm socket, 14mm combination wrench (x2)
3. Torque wrench
4. Dremel tool with metal grinding bit
5. Lithium grease

Procedure:

First, the good news. This is one of the easiest suspension mods to do. You only need a few tools. As with almost any mod, however, expect the unexpected as you go along.

Clear the decks for business by jacking up the rear end and pulling the wheels. If you have the engine splash guard in place, leave it there.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 718×514 and weights 96KB.

Grab a 14mm combination wrench and break the nuts holding on the stock endlink. The lower:

And the upper – and if your car is like mine, these come right off:

Leave the endlinks in place – they aren’t under load but they’ll help hold the bar as you go after the bushing brackets here with the 14mm socket:

As expected, the rear bar is ridiculously easy to remove. It’s almost insulting. Pull, a half-twist to clear the tailpipe, and out it comes. If you’re timing this job, you’d be at around the 30 min. mark by now. Here’s a parts comparison – note how the stock rear sway is a puny, little girlie swaybar, and appreciate the size and machismo of the High and Tights:

Speaking of the bushings, there’s a problem. The brackets are too wide and will not fit the holes in the underbody of the chassis. You could drill and tap a new hole (not recommended) or modify the bracket (recommended). Use the dremel tool:

You’ll grind the slots on the bracket inward toward the bracket saddle all the way up to the curve. Then the bolts will fit. Grease the bushings, grease the endlink ball pivots. Now, reverse all the above steps to install the Addco. (Make sure the curve in the bar points down.) It’d be nice to have a friend help but it’s simple enough solo. So easy, you’ll be laughing.

Note that you’ll need two 14mm combination wrenches to install the High and Tight endlinks. There’s a nut on the inside of the endlink you need to secure as you tighten the outer nut, which you can see in the comparison photo above.

Here’s the finished result:

In the above picture, follow the swaybar around to where it runs under the frame. There’s a slight indentation there made to accommodate the swaybar. The Addco is so large that it almost makes contact with the body. The ES bushings are large enough to prevent binding and contact, but on my car the clearance is really tight – maybe 1/32 of an inch. The bar rotates in place, but it doesn’t move up and down. So as long as you have clearance, you’re good to go. If you are getting contact, you’ll need spacers under the bushings, and maybe longer bolts.

If you’re clear, then affix the wheels, torque the lug nuts to 76 ft lbs and test the bar.

Driving impressions:
I already have the front Addco, which really planted the front – much more than a FSTB – so I was expecting good things from this mod. Just running the front bar, the back end breaks loose predictably and controllably. With the rear, you should have better cornering as you reduce the last of the body roll. On the other hand, I’ve got Che’s rear member braces back there already, so I wasn’t expecting any OMG! moments.

Backing out the driveway, I’ve got a berm at the end where the drive connects with the street. I felt the effect of the rear bar when the tires passed over this bump. Much more solid now. Heading out… Turn One. Nothing dramatic, but very nice. Turn Two. Ah, I see what it’s doing. The back feels tightened down like the front. Turn Three. Feels like the power of the car connects with the suspension immediately. Turn Four. Accelerating out of curves feels more authoritative.

On the way back, Turn Four is a sweeping right that I often use to test the back end, because I can break the tires loose an inch or two without drama. This time, I couldn’t do it. I didn’t go past 7/10 for the test drive, so I’ll need more time to discover the new limits of the back end – but they’re now beyond what they were. I recommend this mod very highly. PITA factor: One bottle of Stella Artois, and that only because of the bushing issue. Hat tip to lbridges for his advice with the procedure.

Tool needed-

Phillips screwdriver

Parts needed-

New airfilter

Begin.

1.Open the hood

2.Disconnect maf. (push down on clip and pull wire harness to your right)

3.Unscrew your hose clamp.

4.Pull coolant line off of box:

here

and here

5.For more maneuverability you can pull up on these two small hoses to dissconnect

them from the rubber intake tube.

6.Push forward on these two brass clips that hold the airbox lid on from the front.

They will swing forward and remain on the bottom of the airbox so no need to worry

about them falling off.

Here on the right side

and here on the left side

Optional step:

If you want to remove the top of the airbox completely then you will have to

unscrew the screw to the left (be careful that little bugger is easy to lose) and either

unclip the wire to the right (leaving the clip on the box) or use a pair of needle nose

pliers or flat head screwdriver to get the clip off of the airbox. (leaving it on the wire)

btw you may have to take the top rear strut top bar off to get it out if you have

heat shields still.

7.Now pull up on the front of the airbox (by maf sensor) and rubber tube.

Then while holding airbox up push down on rubber tube, like this.

8.Now slide the box forward to release the back retainers for the airbox.

Here’s what they look like.

9.Now your airbox should be free to pull up and expose your filter. You may have

to lift up on it enough to get your old filter out and then try to slip your new one in.

I’m able to slide the box over to the right since I don’t have any heat shields in.

Just make sure the filter fits in flush with the box and your in good shape.

[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=spydercam;492097]10.Now make sure when you put your box back on to slide the back retainers in

like they were. Make sure they line up like my pic in step 8.

11.Now slide your rubber intake tube to the right side like this:

12.Then slide it over the top of the airbox. Now lift the front of the airbox (by the maf)

and line it up with the bottom of the rubber intake tube. Now you should be able to push

down on the airbox and tube to form this:

13.Now just push down and pull the tube tight to form a good seal.

14.Tighten your hose clamp down.

15.Clip both brass hooks back.

Here on the right side

and here on the left side

16.Plug maf wire harness back into maf.

17.Put coolant line back into place:

here

and here

18.Reconnect two small tubes back to rubber intake tube.

(if you did the optional step make sure to screw your left screw back in and

wire and clamp on the right side back to box)

19.Clean up and your ready to go.

Tools necessary:
-10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm wrenches (ratcheting kind is super handy)
-10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets
-ratchets and extensions for said sockets (the air variety will save time)
-channel lock pliers (handy for removing spring clips)
-cable, wire or string (for tieing stuff out of your way)
-clean table top or other horizontal surface, so you can
place the parts out of the way and not lose them
-cherry picker or lift (to pick the car up off of the engine)
-dolly of some kind (to roll the drivetrain out from under the car)
-catch can for coolant (you can drain this at any time, I choose
to do it when I first lift the car up over my head because its
convenient.
-catch can for transmission oil (if you take the axles out, I do
not take them out of the transmission in this walk through. If
I did, I would drain the transmission first to avoid a mess.)
-flathead screw driver
-common sense (please do not be a booger eating moron and get
yourself killed, people will laugh at your obituary.)

Suggested Tools:
-impact wrench (with one of these the tight bolts you encounter
do not pose as much of a threat to your knuckles and your cereal
will taste better the next day.)
-bright portable lights (if I have to explain why, you should not be
reading this and you are a booger eating moron.)
-plenty of room to work (will also make your cereal taste better
the next day.)

Time Needed to Drop:
This was done in 3 hours and 45 minutes of actual wrench time. That includes the 15-20 minute call I had to make to Blitzo because I got stuck and also includes doing several things out of order and needlessly raising and lowering the car. If I were to do this again in the order laid out in this document, I could have this joker out in 1.5 – 2 hours without breaking a sweat from the halogen lights.

Another handy thing to have is a cushy place for your butt. I don’t know about the rest of the world but I enjoy sitting on mine. Especially when I’m “working”.

btw – I also suggest not doing this in the FREAKING cold. It required me to wear gloves because I can’t work when my hands go numb. I generally hate using gloves because I lose a lot of fine dexterity with my fingers, but given my choices I think I picked the better option. I wholeheartedly suggest you invest in a pair if it is FREAKING cold where you plan to do this swap.

Before you get started, I suggest removing the battery. As you can see, I didn’t do that immediately – however I do recomend it first priority as far as safety for the mobile goes.

All setup on the lift, ready to work. I do not condone this type of action with one of these lifts. It is not designed to have the ass end of a car hanging off of it like I did. However, I didn’t see why it wouldn’t work so I did it anyway.

Gratuitous butt shot.

Off with the wheels. The lug wrench that came with the Spyder will do, but the impact made it nicer. 21mm socket, if anyone is curious.

Both rear wheels need to be removed.

As you can see the two 10mm bolts holding the license plate have been removed along with the plate. Do not forget about these small electrical clips. Leaving them on when you pull the bumper skin off will embarass you in front of your friends.

Hit all three 10mm screws that are on each side of the bumper skin. Two are where I have my ratchet placed, one is hiding up in the wheel well but is easy enough to spot.

This needs to be done on both sides.

Pop the hood

While hard to see, I’m removing one of the two 10mm bolts that secure the tail light in place.

This needs to be done for both lights.

Removing the electrical clip that is attached to the tail light housing.

This needs to be done for both lights.

Removing the two 10mm bolts that secure the bumper skin to some actual metal under the tail lights.

This needs to be done for both sides.

Using a flathead screwdriver to pop up the five (less if you tend to lose them like me) plastic clips that secure the bumper skin along the top.

Carefully pulling the bumper skin off. Make sure you have an adequate space already lined up for this joker to sit. Basically, its flimsy, oddly shaped and is something you do NOT want to scratch up. I ended up putting it on the roof of my Two Door.

Removing the two vertical bars behind the bumper skin that are held on with a 10mm bolt and 10mm nut.

Removing the rear strut brace. This is held on by two 14mm nuts at the struts and two 14mm bolts at the body. Once you have them out, it lifts up and you can set it aside out of the way.

Don’t forget about these little clip things that secure the third brake light wiring when you go to remove the hood. Also embarassing in front of your friends if you forget.

Removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the rear deck lid to the hinges. Don’t be a dumbass, get a friend to help you with this. Have them hold up one side while you remove the bolts from the other. It is possible to lay a towel out and work one side at a time but its easier to have a buddy hold up one side while you do the other. They can help you put the rear deck lid on a clear horizontal space as well. Be easy, scratching this piece will hurt your feelings.

Just taking a step back to admire the handy work…of the disassembly…the exhaust work is nothing to write home about and I’m glad that I’m finally getting rid of it. It used to be two mufflers, but I blew one out and had to cut it out and weld a piece of pipe in its place. I had to do this pronto because the muffler gave on a Thursday evening and I needed to be at work Friday morning. btw – This nastiness was what I learned to weld on. I expect the next exhaust system will reflect my improved metal sticking abilities (grin).

Popping the clips that secure the wires for the license plate lights.

Removing the rear bumper from the sub frame rails. There are three 14mm bolts holding this on each side.

Removing the O2 sensor. 2zz’s only use one for A/F ratios, plus its common to do a custom exhaust when you put one in your Spyder.

The exhaust for a 1zz would look nothing like the one pictured in this project.

After 30 minutes you too can have a spyder as light as this one.

Using a 19mm socket, loosen the accessory belt tensioner so you can take the belt off while you have the car on the ground.

Lift the car and pop the coolant drain plugs. There are two 12mm bolts. One on each coolant line. As an aside, the draining is helped if you pull the resevoir cap off the tank in the back of the car. As you can see from all the mud under my car, I hate dirt roads. Mine is finally paved but not before a few weeks of extremely nasty rainy weather got to visit and decorate the underside of my car.

Have a catch can of some sort for when the plugs come out.

Pictured here is me removing the two 12mm bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder to the bellhousing. I used a ratcheting wrench to get these as my air ratchet wouldn’t clear very easily.

Using the impact to zip the transmission mount by the clutch slave cylinder apart. As I recall, that was a 17mm. It may seem strange that I am taking this bolt out, but it needs to come out anyway because it keeps the mount bracket out of your way when you finally lower the engine from the car.

Removing the two 14mm bolts that secure the mount bracket to the bellhousing.

What I ended up with after I removed all that stuff. (one mount down, two to go – the fourth is left on, you’ll see)

Tie the slave cylinder up out of the way so its not stressing the clutch line.

Basically – there are four 12mm bolts that are holding the compressor on. Well that and an electrical clip. Don’t forget about the clip or you will embarass yourself in front of your friends. When removing the bolts, remove the two that are above the compressor first. The bolts are long and thin, so if you do the bottoms first, they won’t come off entirely and simply get in the way when you try to unbolt the top ones.

Untied the slave cylinder and tied the compressor in place. I then used the left over on the wire to secure the slave cylinder to the compressor.

This is the fuel line. More specifically, this is the spot where you should disconnect the fuel line if you intend to pull a 1zz/2zz engine from a Spyder. I simply pressed the white plastic thing together and the rubber line easily lifted off and out of the way.

Keep a rag handy for the little bit of gasoline that will pour out.

Yes, this white plastic thing.

Using a 10mm wrench to remove the bracket that keeps the hydraulic brake line from moving too much.

This is the ABS sensor for the wheel. There is a 10mm bolt that is holding it in place.

Actually removing said 10mm bolt and tucking the sensor up out of my way.

Some random bracket that is held on by a 10mm bolt. Since the hub assembly is coming off, this guy must stay with the car. So I’m taking it loose.

Using Mr. Impact again to zip off the lower 17mm (maybe 14mm, I forget at the moment) bolt that is holding the caliper on.

Removing the upper 17mm (maybe 14mm, I forget at the moment) bolt that is holding the caliper on.

Pulling the caliper off. At which point I balanced it on the forward locator bar for the hub.

Pulling the rotor off. I laid it on the floor out of the way.

Tied the caliper up out of the way so I could unbolt the forward locator bar for the hub.

Unbolting the two 19mm bolts that hold the cup to the strut. Incidentally, this is how you adjust your camber alignment if you’re curious. You buy different diameter sized bolts that allow the cup to tilt in or out a specified number of degrees and tighten them up while holding the hub assembly tilted one way or the other. My friends tried to explain to me that there was rocket science involved in automobile alignments…if they only knew.
btw – caster is not adjustable on these cars, if you have adjusted it you are not concerned with your alignment so much as the butt pillaging that the insurance company is going to give you for wrecking your car.

Removing the 17mm bolt that holds the forward locator bar to the hub. At this point the hub moves really easily.

As you can see.

Every detail shown regarding the hub must be duplicated for the other side of the car.

Removing the three 12mm bolts that hold the battery holder in place. The third one is way down low next to the strut. Its hobbies include making you go find a magnadoodle pen so you can retrieve it when it drops out of sight.

Removed the intake that was behind the battery. I am running a Pelican Racing style intake on my car. Stock intakes will need a little different finagling so I didn’t even go into it here…just remove your entire intake if you would still like to keep up.

Make sure this ground wire comes off the transmission. You will embarass yourself in front of your friends if you don’t when you go to lower the engine out of the car. Its a 10mm or 12mm as I recall.

Remove the 10mm nut holding the starter wire to the fuse panel.

Then take this wire loose and lay it over onto the engine.

All plugs to the ECM have been removed including the four wires that are necessary to integrate to the body harness if you are running a 2zz motor in your Spyder. These wires have to do with the O2 sensor if you’re curious because the Celica GTS keeps its O2 sensor so far away from the engine that it is wired in with the body harness. There are three plugs to the right of the two wiring bundles pictured that must also be removed. They come out with the engine wiring harness.

The scene just before I yank the engine harness through the firewall and lay it on the engine.

Said engine harness yanked through the firewall and laying on the engine.
btw – there are a few little clips for the harness to attach to the transmission that I have not mentioned here, they are pretty obvious when you see them in person and they simply require a flathead screw driver to disconnect.

Right after I laid everything up on the engine and made sure all the wiring junk was separated and out of the way.

The are the shift linkage connections. Just pull the little pin and the washer pops off along with the linkage head. Do not lose those parts.

These little clips tried to hurt my feelings. Basically I pushed the little metal piece down (circled) and forced the linkage (arrow points to it) up with a screwdriver. It popped out. I seem to recall there being a more convenient trick for this, but I don’t know what it is.

Using the impact wrench I zipped the driver’s side transmission mount loose. This was a 17mm I think. 17 or 14… I expect it will be pretty obvious when you start wrenching on it.

This is the modified celica mount used to keep the passenger side of the motor connected. I highly recomend to anyone using a 2zz in their Spyder to get a custom mount. Modifying the celica mount will let you get by, but the other three mounts tend to twist a little because its impossible to elongate the bolt hole enough to sit correctly.

I forget what this looks like on a 1zz, on the 2zz its just a 17mm bolt on the body side, two 14mm bolts on the motor side along with two 14mm nuts on the underside of the bridge mount toward the motor.

I used an old engine stand and laid a board across its legs. Then I placed two tires on the boards to let the motor and transmission sit on. This worked pretty darn well. Once I had the drive train sitting on this, I removed the two 17mm bolts holding the crossmember to the subframe rails and also the 12mm bolt that was holding some kind of bracket for the brake lines. Ignore the detail of the rear sway bar being disconnected. It was not necessary and I put the bolt back right after I took this picture.

Each side of the crossmember has two 17mm bolts and a 12mm bolt that need to be removed.

This is a pic of me lifting the car up from the drivetrain. I don’t recall moving, but apparently I was having some sort of epileptic fit when I pressed the button. Notice how I twisted the motor a bit to better clear the passenger side frame rail. It was at this point that I disconnected the throttle cable. If you forget about the throttle cable you will embarass yourself in front of your friends when you lift the car from the drivetrain.

Another pic to illustrate the twist I put on the drivetrain to clear the passenger subframe rail. BTW – something not pointed out during this is that the 2zz’s have a ground wire connected to the body above the valve cover towards the pullies. If you forget about this, you will embarass yourself in front of your friends when you lift the car from the drivetrain.

Voila – No more engine.

Still no more engine.

Everything that came out with the engine.

Everything I laid on one of my work tables. I keep the related bolts grouped together and move from a top to bottom, left to right motion as I put another pile of bolts on it. This way its easier for me to work backwards and put everything back in its place while I am reassembling.

Thats the whole show as far as I’m aware. The most important tool to use for this task is common sense. Yes that bears repeating. If you have any questions, please direct them to someone who cares.

Photos by Marilyn Murray – Copywrong 2005 my rights reserved and all that jazz.

Please add anything constructive, questions or tips from your experience to this thread and I’ll edit and move it to the library later

so how do you change the coolant on the Roadster?

Ok first thing is coolant regardess of what others may say anything is fine as long as it s Ethyl Glycol based and suitable for aluminium engines

You’ll need a lot of it as you will lose a lot bleeding it, cheapest option is Halfords own brand concentrated, get enough to make 20 litres or more.

You will need the car on ramps or stands, I suggest ramps (CLOSE THE RAD DRAIN POINT)

Make sure your heater is on full (no keys in and no engine running)

1. Remove expansion tank cap
2. There is a drain plug for the block, bottom left at the back behind the manifold open it and catch the contents (leave it open)
3. remove all plastics from the front under the nose
4. tied up against the firewall is 2 hoses against a bleed valve
5. take the shorter one and attach to the bleed nipple, masking tape the other end vertically up to the bonnet, open the bleed point
6. take the other hose and attach it to the rad bleed point (drivers side top of rad on the end
7. tape it up verticaly to the bonnet
8. below that bleed point is a plastic thumbscrew open it up but be careful its a crap design and you don’t want it to fall out
9. passenger side of the rad at the bottom is a drain point, open it and catch any coolant that coes out (leave it open)
10. look where the rad feed hoses go under the bonnet and dissapear under the centre of the car. Just after they dissapear there are 2 drain points, ignore them as they will be seized up, just behind them are 2 clips that hold the rubber hoses on, pull those hoses and drain any coolant that comes out, then put them back on.
11. If there is any coolant still in the expansion bottle disconnect the bottle and empty it.
12. when confident no more coolant is coming out close all drain points.

Now to refill

1 mix your coolant
2. fill from the expansion bottle cap slowly pausing to allow any air to come back out,
3. stop filling when the level in the clear hoses at the front is approx the same height as the expansion tank at the rear.
4. close all bleed points
5. start car and idle for 10 mins topping up the expansion tank as needed.
6. kill engine, open bleed points and allow any air to leave the system, topping up at the rear as needed. Massage the coolant pipes where accessable

7. repeat 5 and 6 as neccessary until no more air comes out.

8. shut bleed points replace expansion cap and go for an easy drive (leave plastic out as your not finished yet.)

9. check heater works when driving if not follow heater matrix bleed proceedure below as it’s air locked.

10. return car to ramps, remove expansion cap open bleed points and remove any air that comes out, top up at rear as needed.

if the heater didn’t work follow the below

1. Get an assistant
2. open bleed point on firewall
3. clamp (use a big gclamp) the rad hose that goes between the bleed point and the main rad pipe
4. you need a wet and dry shop vac for this (wicks do one for circa £20 if you don’t have one)
5. seal a hose to both vac and the hose coming from the bleed point.
6. have someone at the rear ensure the expansion tank does not run dry whilst you turn on the Vac
7. you should see the airlock siphon out of the heater matrix up the clear pipe, stop when you are sucking up water

that should do it

repeat various parts as needed if you still have air

keep a close eye on levels and temp over the next few days, expect to have to top up the expansion tanks periodically over the next week.

at all times during the fill proceedure never let the expansion tank run dry.

Front Wheels

Width 15″ x 6″
Offset = et45
PCD = 4 x 100
Weight = 14.6 lbs

Rear Wheels

Width 15″ x 6.5″
Offset = et45
PCD = 4 x 100
Weight = 15.2 lbs

Front Tyres (Bridgestone RE040 or Yokohama A043, USE MATCHING SETS)

185/55/15

Rear Tyres (Bridgestone RE040 or Yokohama A043, USE MATCHING SETS)

205/50/15

commonly recommended replacement tyre options Toyo T1R in stock sizes as above

September 2002 – End of line All Markets

Front Wheels

Width 15″ x 6″
Offset = et45
PCD = 4 x 100
Weight = 14.6 lbs

Rear Wheels

Width 16″ x 7″
Offset = et45
PCD = 4 x 100
Weight =

Front Tyres (Bridgestone RE040 or Yokohama A043, USE MATCHING SETS)

185/55/15

Rear Tyres (Bridgestone RE040 or Yokohama A043, USE MATCHING SETS)

215/45/16

commonly recommended replacement tyre options Toyo Proxies T1R 195/50/15 Front, 225/40/16 Rear