Tools needed:
10mm socket for battery removal
12mm socket for (-) battery cable flip
14mm socket to remove rear strut crossbrace
Dremmel with small cone grinder and small cutting bit (comes with most Dremmels)
3-5 zip ties to attach any loose hoses and wires
Pliers, to bend (+) positive battery bracket
Box cutter, or sharp knife to notch Red plastic (+) positive battery cover & white plastic battery tray
Rustoleum paint

Remove rear strut crossbrace 14mm
Disconnect the (-) battery terminal
Disconnect the (+) battery terminal
Unbolt battery hold down nut 10mm

Remove battery from car

This is the diagonal brace thats just behind the muffler and leads down to the rear lower brace.
Next #1 in pic snap off tab with pliers. I just bent it back n forth until it came off.
#2 use Dremmel with cone grinder to enlarge the hole so the stock battery hold down bracket tab will fit in the hole. Just need to open the hole a little.

Next take the white plastic battery tray trim off the corner as seen in #2 so it can fit in to the space.
Then with the Dremmel cone grinder or a large drill bit make the hole as seen by #1 in this pic. This hole is for the J-Bolt to hold down the battery to the rear crossbrace

Looking down you want to line up / mock up the battery top tie down brace with the hole you enlarged and drop down the J-Bolt to get an idea where to make your hole for the J-Bolt to go.

Look at this as your mock up, see how the battery will set in the space.

Looking down Use the dremmel with the cutting bit (looks like a small metal circle ball with fins) The space is tight, at a 45* angle to drill a hole large enough so the J-Bolt will fit. You don’t need to go to low just about 1/2 inch from the top of the rear member.

I painted the hole, using Black Rustoleum to prevent rust
After you make the hole place the J-Bolt thru the white plastic battery tray and into the new hole as seen in this pic

Bend the (+) positive battery connector as seen in this pic

Next flip the (-) battery terminal cable ( unbolt 12mm and flip over)

Next unbolt and turn this (-) battery terminal cable body ground as seen in this pic, then re-bolt

Place the battery into its new location with the terminals being closest to the tranny/old battery location. Next #1 slide the battery hold down bracket into the hole, then #2 attach the J-Bolt to the battery hold down bracket and tighten bolt 10mm so battery is held into place. When done the battery will not move at all. #3 zip tie the wires to this spot.

Bolt on the straighten (+) positive battery cable to the (+) positive post on the battery. Next cut/notch the L-shaped Red plastic (+) positive battery cover and snap into place as seen in this pic

Next attach the (-) battery cable to the (-) battery post as seen in this pic

Top view when done, Zip tie any loose hoses & wires

After rear strut cross bar is reinstalled & I put a piece of aluminum diamond plate in to old battery space for a home made cold air box.

This guide will give you ideas about how to program “Toyota Vehicle Security System”

It is highly possible that owners would not know what model of security system they have installed, mainly because of missing or misplaced manuals. My research has shown that there is basic pattern in which “most” MR2s’ security system can be programmed.

Disclamer : The author or M2ROC.org accepts no responsibility for people not checking on the correct version of the system before programming it and cocking it up .

Section A
First of all following are the features that security system provides :-

1. Arming Mode
2. Status monitor LED flashing
3. Peizo buzzer
4. Answer back
5. Ignition controlled door lock

Please note the sequence of features above as this determines how to program your security system

Section B

How to “communicate” to system about feature you want to program.

This is achieved by opening and closing the door a set no. of times. Example :-

1. Arming Mode (auto lock after 30s): Open and close the door 1 times
2. Status monitor LED flashing : Open and close the door 2 times
3. Peizo buzzer (Door ajar indication): Open and close the door 3 times
4. Answer back : Open and close the door 4 times
5. Ignition controlled door lock\unlock: Open and close the door 5 times

Section C
To turn any feature “On” or “Off” you have to follow PREPARATION steps listed below (1-10).

The basic “On” and “Off” of any feature can be achieved by :-

1. “ON” : Open and close the door “once”
2. “OFF” : Open and close the door “twice”

How to program any feature

PREPARATION

1) Check that all connectors and terminals of the fitting kit wire harnesses (main) and (engine) are fitted correctly.

2) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
3) Remove the key from the ignition key cylinder and push the “unlock” button of the remote control.
4) Indicator lights will flash twice.
5) Close boot and bonnet completely.
6) Step in the vehicle and make sure that all doors are closed completely.
7) Insert the key into the ignition key cylinder.
8.) Wait for more than 5 seconds.
9) After turning the key to the ACC position, turn the key from the ACC to the ON position five times (Last position : ON).
10) Status Monitor LED will illuminate for 30 seconds.

Feature ON :

1) While the LED is illuminated:

Open and close the driver’s door (See Section B for no of times you need to open and close the door) time.
• Turn the key ACC-ON-ACC 1 time (Last position : ACC).
Indicator lights will flash once.
LED will extinguish.

Feature OFF :

1) While the LED is illuminated :
Open and close the driver’s door (See Section B for no of times you need to open and close the door) times.
• Turn the key ACC-ON-ACC 1 time (Last position : ACC).
Indicator lights will flash twice.
LED will extinguish.

Example : How to auto lock doors on ignition

1) Check that all connectors and terminals of the fitting kit wire harnesses (main) and (engine) are fitted correctly.
2) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
3) Remove the key from the ignition key cylinder and push the “unlock” button of the remote control.
Indicator lights will flash twice.

4) Close boot and bonnet completely.
5) Step in the vehicle and make sure that all doors are closed completely.
6) Insert the key into the ignition key cylinder.
7) Wait for more than 5 seconds.
8.) After turning the key to the ACC position, turn the key from the ACC to the ON position five times (Last position : ON).
Status Monitor LED will illuminate for 30 seconds.
9) While the LED is illuminated :
• Open and close the driver’s door 5 times.
• Turn the key to the ACC position.
• LED will illuminate for 30 seconds.
• Indicator lights will flash 5 times.

Ignition controlled door lock ON :
While the LED is illuminated:
Open and close the driver’s door 1 time.
Turn the key ACC-ON-ACC 1 time (Last position : ACC).
Indicator lights will flash once.
LED will extinguish.

Ignition controlled door lock OFF :

While the LED is illuminated :
Open and close the driver’s door 2 times.
Turn the key ACC-ON-ACC 1 time (Last position : ACC).
Indicator lights will flash twice.
LED will extinguish.

Important : Please note that depending on your model the number corresponding in Section B may differ.

For example in the above documentation “Ignition controlled lock ON” is achieved by opening and closing the door “5” times. But in my car I could only achieve that by opening and closing the door “3” times. It all depends on your model of TVSS installed.

If you ensure that you do not “turn-off” any feature by mistake before identifying the feature no. I think everything is safe.

Try and you will succeed

Parts used
kenwood kvt 627 dvd
audio wiring connector PC2-17-4
Auto leads facia plate FP-11-03

standard head unit ready to be removed
forgot to take a pic of the next part remove the side pieces to reveal the screws that hold the stereo and ashtray

remove heater knobs and 2 screws behind the left and right heater knobs

pull of the surround for the heater controls and unplug the clock

you will see 4 screws holding the ashtray remove these, unplug the cigar lighter

4 more screws on the head unit remove and unplug all plugs and aerial

all these wires

with my head unit i had to run the cables in for the brain of the head unit. i fixed this in the passanger luggage compartment behind the seat

with the new facia part and wiring adapter follow the instructions that came with it and you should end up with somthing like this. on the wiring adapter you will NOT use all the plugs from the original stereo

i then powered up the head unit to check the screen didn’t hit the heater controls

whilst i was at it i did the window switch mod just cut the 2 wires on the window lock switch leaving a couple of inches to resolder the new wires to. join original wires together then cut the blue wire on the wiring adapter which should be the electric aerial control (check the packet to make sure) extent this to either side of the window lock switch, thats is no more aerial up when listening to cd’s or watching a dvd

replace the ashtray and take off the surround from the original stereo clip on the new facia plate, replace the side panels, thats it one head unit fitted

All Roadsters are made the same and when they arrive at their final destination, various parts are added. These include for the UK MR2, Stereo unit, Thatcham 1 alarm, Roadster badge on rear and lots of extra little bits to boot.

Had Toyota had their standard stereo available as a part, I would have bought it, but it is not on any of the part lists.

You will need to order the following parts from a Toyota dealer.

55521 -16030 : Tray / Storage slot
55423 – 17040 : Surrounding trim
86221 -52050 : Left hand spacer
86221 – 52060 : Right hand spacer
86211 – 17050 : Left hand mounting bracket
86212 – 17050 : Right hand mounting bracket

When you pick them up, be cheeky and ask the parts department for 10 or 12 self tapping screws, as you will need a few extra. NB: If you a replacing the existing stereo you will not need the last two parts (L & R Mounting brackets) as they are already attached to the installed strereo.

This is how my central console looked after taking delivery of my Roadster. Very bare and not much happening in the entertainment zones, but I must admit a nice finishing on the two upright pillars.

The two inner covers are the easiest to remove, with your index finger run your finger up the back of the inner cover until you find the recess. Pull the cover forward and it will clip off.

The larger outer covers need slightly more effort to remove. The lower, light grey, cover needs to be pulled away from the central console, to expose two screws and a single bolt. Undo the two screws bur NOT the bolt.

Pull down on the outer cover and it should come away easily.

The next job is to remove the heating / Air Con control facia.

Remove the slider handle and the three control knobs. Behind the left and right controllers are two screws, remove these. The panel should now be free to be removed. Pulling from the bottom, ease the panel away from the dash, you may find it necessary to give extra leverage at the top edge with a small screw diver inserted above the control facia and the main dash

Be careful when removing facia as there are still wires connected to the rear of the unit, to power the clock.

Fix the left and right mounting brackets to the head unit. Modern stereos have a standard set of locating dimples and screw points, so (nearly) all units should mount easily. It may take two, three or four screws per side to suitably fix the unit to the brackets.

The craftiest part of all, the Celica storage tray. Yes this part is intended for a new Celica.

There a numerous mounting points on the unit, but it needs to be slotted in-between the newly attached brackets on the head unit. The mounting hole on the top of the unit just behind the first hole is the one we need to get aligned with one of the holes on the brackets. Only 1 self tapping screw is needed per side, as the brackets have locating points which match up with some of the other holes on the tray.

Hook up the stereo and test to see if everything works. There are various places to get the wiring looms to connect the stereo to the vehicle, but I got mine from

www.basesystems.com

The hard part to find is the antenna…..

The hardest part was locating the antenna connector, it was eventually found tucked down beneath the carpeting on the drivers side. The coverings behind the central console pull back very easily and after a bit of investigation you should spot a cable running over the side and away under the carpet. There is about 15 to 20cm of cable terminated in a standard aerial connector. Fold the carpeting back round behind the console and fasten the Velcro tabs.

Now for the clever bits. As the standard head units available are a predefined size, these is going to be a gap at the edges of the stereo, since the Toyota unit is about 15mm wider on each side.

Fear not, Mr. Toyota has already though of that, the two plastic spacers are fitted to the front edge of each bracket to fill the gap. They just clip on over a small meta tab in the bracket. I had to undo two of the stereo / tray mounting screws, fix on the spacer then refit the screws.

Screw the hole assembly into the central console with four self tapping screws.

Clip over the surround trip (not shown on this image for some bizarre reason), before refitting the heating / Air Con facia, as the surround clips behind it on its top edge.

This is how, it should look when it’s all finished.

To fit the stereo from scratch took about 30 minutes.

For those who are interested, the unit is a Pioneer DEH-P6100R CD Tuner see here for more details.

I have found a US only supplier of a plastic vacuum formed adapter to hold standard DIN size stereo in the MR2 roadster, Part number TA2047 from

www.scosche.com

Unfortunately they can only ship to the US, so if you live there or have friends who can send it on, it may be an easier option, but from what I can see, you still have to do most of the hard work of removing the facia and column covers anyway.

There are benefits to running speaker wire through the door as the stock wire is anemic plus having the crossovers in the doors is not ideal. This guide will make it easy for you to do the job if you follow my procedure otherwise it will be a bit more complicated.

These are the tools that you will need.
1. Small flathead screwdriver
2. Fishing tape or a wire with a loop from a coat hanger.

Before we start you must remove the door panels and the mid woofer. You can find out how to do it here. http://www.spydermagazine.com/

Ok let’s get started.

1. Remove the Plastic runner
2. Remove the underside plastic piece by the dead pedal. It is held in with a Plastic screw that you can turn with your fingers.
3. Now we are ready to get to the good stuff. Remove the grommet/rubber sleeve that goes into the body of the car. Use the flat head screw driver and wedge it out while pulling on the grommet. Its not that hard to do and don’t worry as its easy to put back.

4. The next thing to do is place your left hand into the woofer hole and reach up until you feel where the grommet is attached to the door. You will not be able to see this because for one thing it’s inside the door and because your hand is in the way. Once you feel the grommet with the rubber sleeve you should gently pull it in while your right hand on the outside pushes in the grommet. Do not slide the grommet/ rubber sleeve over the wires, don’t worry you won’t be able to but just incase you get the urge. Feel free to use the screwdriver when pushing it in from the outside.

5. Now use the fishing tape or modified coat hanger through the inside of the door, feel the end of the rubber sheath and pass the Fishing tape/wire through being careful not to use excessive force. A little manipulation maybe needed and before you know it its on the outside of the door through the rubber sleeve.

6. Ok we are almost home. Place the speaker wire on the loop and pull it through carefully and that’s it.

7. Now it’s all down hill. Take the wire that you passed through the door and pass it into the hole in the body of the car where the other grommet goes into and at the same time place your right hand in the hole where you removed the plastic piece near the dead pedal. This is where you will receive the wire. When you catch it just pull the slack.

8. Last thing left is to reposition the grommets. Just push out the one on the inside of the door and use the screwdriver on the outside to manipulate and it should catch. Then push in the one on the body. Don’t worry its actually easier than it looks.

That’s about it. If the instructions seem confusing in any way don’t worry as it will make sense when you are actually doing it. When I did the passenger side it was a bit difficult because I did not know how to approach it and I initially had a hard time passing the wire through the rubber. When I figured out how to do the passenger side it became a walk in the park for the drivers side. This is very easy to do as long as you follow my directions otherwise it can be tricky.