List of tools:

30 mm 12 point socket to remove the drive shaft nut (Ace Hardware)
14 mm 6 point socket to remove most bolts on tranny, engine mounts
17 mm 6 point socket to remove the two top tranny bolts and control arms
12 mm 6 point socket to remove battery tray, top engine mount bracket, ground wire to tranny
10mm 6 point socket to remove neg on battery etc
22 or 24mm 6 point to remove oil drain plug
Different length
extenders for sockets and universal joints for some angles to get socket on the bolts
1 Large flat head screw driver or small “pry bar” to pop off driver side axle
1 Jack two is better
3 Jack stands, two to hold up car one for engine when tranny is out (or jack to hold engine up)
Braker bar ( most tranny bolts are on with 50 ft lbs or less) not to bad
*2 cargo straps one with ratcheting ( time saver and makes removing / installing the tranny SO MUCH EASIER)
Dremmel or small hack saw to cut out small piece of the front engine mount to access the clutch release cylinder (so you don’t have to disconnect and bleed the clutch system)
1 Step stool
1 funnel
1 roll of paper towels

Now for the fun.

While the car is on the ground loosen the 30mm bolt holding the axle shaft. Make sure you bend up the locking tab on the nut I used a hole punch then a screw driver.

Remove the rear crossbrace (14mm) then battery and air box all the way up to the intake.

Remove the battery tray assembly 12mm

Remove the two pins holding the shift cables make sure to mark one of the cables to know which one goes to which pin. I use a paper towel and wire to mark the longest cable.

Remove the back up plug, bolt to ground wire 12mm

Remove the bolt holding down the wire harness to the transmission 12mm

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the rear of the car

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the front of the car. Its not easy to see but with a long screw driver or pry bar you can move around the engine hoses & wire harness to put on the socket

Now jack up the car and make sure you use jack stands. I have the smaller type 2 ton, you’ll need to raise the car high enough to slide the tranny out. I went three or four exposed notches.

When under the the car I started with the starter bolts 14mm

Then the two bolt holding the clutch cylinder 12mm

Then remove the the engine long bolt 14mm or 17mm and the three bolts 14mm holding the mount to the car and the bolt at the rear lower transmission 14mm

Remove the holding clip and then cut out a notch with a dremmel to slide the clutch cylinder out

Remove the two 14mm bolts behind the header. You might need extensions and universal joint with the scoket & ratchet.

Remove the lower tranny bolts 14mm

Remove the lower control arms bolts 17mm. The nut with the dial remove. The other control arms you must turn the bolt not the nuts. The nuts have a spike on back of them that will not let it turn. The bolts are the way to go.

Remove the three amigo header bolts and pop off the down pipe (you don’t need to remove the down pipe)

Place a oil pan under the tranny then remove the oil drain nut 22mm or 24mm. drain the oil.

I used an air chisel fork to pop off the axle a large flat head screw driver or small prybar will work (the air chisel fork was used as a pry bar only not hooked up to an air source, the bit has a turned up side like a fork has and that gives it a little more leverage). Turn the other wheel a little at a time until it just pops off. Don’t force it, keep turning the other wheel a little at a time until it comes off there is a C-clip that needs to slip down so the shaft slides out.

Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 4 bolts 14mm to the car.

This part you’ll need a jack to support the engine and lower it a little to slide out the tranny (only one engine mount will be attached) don’t drop it to low. Also, I used a jack stand as add comfort, I placed it an inch lower (just in case)

First replace the strut crossmember brace, then tie off one end of the cargo strap to it and wrap it around the bell housing through the engine mount brackets and hook or tie off ( leave slack to lower the engine two to three inches) Then place the jack under the oil pan closet to the bell housing, I used the first rib line. Don’t place it under the lowest widest part of the oil pan, that is where the oil pick up is and you don’t want to damage it. Depending on how high your jack goes, up I used a 4×4 the same length as my jack, my jack is small 2 ton. Jack up the engine just to take the load off the mount.
Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 3 bolts 14mm to the tranny

The arrow pointing to the left it where I place my flat head screw driver to pry the bell housing a little.

At this point slide under the car and slide the tranny to the wheel side. All its wight will be supported by the cargo strap. FYI the tranny weighs around 65 or 70 lbs. not to heavy

Go back up and lower the tranny using the strap to the ground, slide it out.

Putting it back

Slide the tranny back under the car wrap one of the cargo straps back around the bell housing through engine mount brackets over the strut crossbrace like before.

New part: next place the ratcheting cargo strap around the small end of the tranny. You want to angle the transmission up into place parallel to the engine. You want to zig zag the straps up.

Rotate the tranny in the straps to align the tranny up. I was turning the tranny counter clockwise a few times when I was ratcheting it up.

When you have the tranny line up with the straps slide back under the car and push the tranny up and towards the engine. If its aligned up it will slide into place fairly easy. When you feel the drive shaft slide into the clutch your all most home. Make sure the bolt holes line up and the two pins and it should pop into place. I hand tightened the bolt just under the “pin” next to the header and the lower bolt closer to the firewall, then snug them down. Then put in the top two bolts and work your way around. Do the starter bolts after the Driver side tranny mount is installed.

At this point you should have 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine. Two large 17mm bolts on top two 14mm on the bottom and one 14mm bolt by the header. reattach the driver top engine mount bracket 3 12mm or 14mm bolts to the tranny then jack the engine/tranny up so you can slide the thru bolt to hold the tranny and engine mount together. The jack under the engine can come out the engine is supported by the two mounts. Then do everything in reverse and don’t forget to fill with gear oil.

Best of all we can use this cap (12mm bolt) at the top of the transmittion to fill with oil (no mess), unbolt and turn, its held in with a gasket

The final step filling with a funnel.

** IF YOU DON”T GET THE PINS TO LINE UP WITH THE BOLT HOLES SOMETHING IS MISS ALIGNED.** most likely the clutch is not centered after a clutch change. Don’t force the tranny in, just lower and check the clutch by loosing a few bolts on the housing and recenter the clutch and tighten it back to spec

You should have everything apart and the key focus is the hard part which is passing the cable though.

Step Two

You need to cut the cable here.

The cable will now pass though this bracket so there is no need to remove it. If you chose to remove it good luck as there is a bracket for the fuel line in the way and the bolts are next to impossible to remove due to the limited space. In my opinion you don’t need this bracket. It would be nice but as long as the cable passes though you should be fine.
.

You can see the bracket thought the hole but its not easy to take a picture of it.

Step three.
You will want to remove two 12mm bolts that hold the fuel tank closest to the engine and let the tank hang down a little. This is not dropping the tank because there are bolts on the other side which hold the tank in place. This is so you can make a little more clearance for the thickest part of the new cable to pass though.

Step four

You want to remove this bracket because you will not be needing it.

Step five
You will now pass the new cable from the cabin to the bottom of the car. Just push it though and if you feel like there is blockage pull back and push again until it freely passes.
Because you have dropped the tank a little it will have enough clearance to pass though.

Thats it. Not so bad but it would be worse if you need to remove and install that bloody bracket which in my opinion has no use except to have it hang upwards which the cable does naturally anyway.

These are designed to replace the oem rubber bushings in the engine compartment to improve feel at the gear stick.

I felt an install guide would be useful as there were a few things i would have done differently if i was doing this again.

Bought from speedsource here
Cost about £12 shipped.

In the packet.

First be aware that the two bushings differ slightly, one is marked L for lower, and goes on the lower of the two linkages.

I unplugged the passenger side 02 sensor to give a little more room.

First remove both cable ends, simply pull off the cotter pin and remove the top washer on each one, this allows you to lift the linkage and bushing off the shaft.

Now we need to remove the oem bushings you can see in the picture above.
This can be tricky, i found the best way was to push a slim flat blade screwdriver through the rubber then lever the bushing out.
Once out you are left with an empty ring.

And two oem bushings,

The instructions now tell you to remove the lower washers from the shaft, but mine had none.

Use the supplied piece of emery cloth to clean the shafts up if they require it.

Start with the lower of the two linkages at the left hand side as it will be easier to work on whilst the other is unattached. Place the speedsource bushing marked L in the ring with the groove to the top.
You now need to secure this by putting the e clip into the groove. I highly recommend you put a rag underneath the area you are working at to catch the e clip if it drops as it needs a fair amount of force to go on. I didn’t and subsequently lost an e clip.

Once the e clip is on replace the cotter pin with one of those supplied.

Repeat for the other linkage..

Job done.

Tbh, i have not noticed a great deal of difference, perhaps because my car has only 3000 miles on it, however Magicd from spyderchat who suggested these to me to compliment the che short shifter, found them to make a big difference.

00-05 Celica GT & MR2 Spyder – 5 speed – C56
1- 3.17
2- 1.90
3- 1.39
4- 1.03
5- 0.82
R- 3.25
Final Drive- 4.312

Celica GTS & Lotus Elise 2ZZ – C60
1- 3.166
2- 2.050
3- 1.481
4- 1.166
5- 0.916
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

MR2 Spyder 6 Speed Sequential 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.392
4- 1.031
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

07 Corolla 6-Speed *with Puller Reverse*- C66
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

99+ Corolla (NOT FX) – 5 speed – C59
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.885
5- 0.725
Final Drive- 3.914

Euro Spec Transmissions

00-02 MR2 Spyder 5-Speed 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.914

03+ MR2 Spyder 6-Speed 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.914

2003 Avensis 1ZZ-FE – C250
1- 3.545
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 1.031
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.941

2003 Avensis 3ZZ-FE – C50
1- 3.545
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.312

2003 Celica 1ZZ-FE- C60-2
1 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 1.031
5- 0.864
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.312

99+ Corolla (NOT FX) – 5 speed – C59
1- 3.166
2- 2.050
3- 1.481
4- 1.166
5- 0.916
6- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

And the one just to the left of it:

These two bushings are metal sleeves inside rubber washers inside the loops of the shifter-cable ends. When you shift, the pin that runs through the metal sleeve compresses the rubber that surrounds it, introducing a softness to the shifting process. Why did Toyota do this? One theory (posted at newcelica.org) is that the rubber bushings reduce potential vibration in the stick. It’s all part of the general automotive conspiracy to insulate the driver from the terrors of “road feel.” Well, we’re gonna correct that right now.

Here’s the kit:

Get it here: http://www.speed-source.net/
Or here: http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_inf…?products_id=78

A page of instructions comes with the bushings. None of the links to the speedsource online instructions work – they all deliver a “404.” So we’ll follow the paper directions. First, use pliers to remove the cotter pin on the upper (right) bushing:

Next, you remove a metal washer on top of the bushing, then you’re supposed to push at the bushing with the end of a screwdriver and it “should just pop out.” Well it doesn’t. You can lean on that sucker all day long and it’s going nowhere. I considered drilling it out, cutting it out with an Xacto knife, all kinds of stuff that would lead to a trip to the ER. Finally, I found a way to get leverage:

In the pic, you’ll see that I threaded a nut and washer combo on the end of a carriage bolt, then slipped that through the inner sleeve of the OEM bushing. By grabbing the end of the bolt with pliers, you can twist the bushing out just like popping a beer cap. Comes out like buddah. This is the trick I wanted to share with you.

Now clean the shifter bracket post, sand it lightly, grease it, and affix the brass insert. The instructions say to fit the insert to the end of the cable and clamp it in place with the e-clip. Don’t. Instead, affix the metal bushing to the post, then slip the cable bracket end over the bushing. And now lock it in place with the e-clip. This is much easier. The final result looks like this:

Once you’ve done the right (upper) bushing, the left (lower) bushing is easy to swap. The metal inserts are different, and the one for the lower arm is marked “L,” which conveniently is the same as the “L” in left.

Use heavy gloves or the bloody knuckles are on you.

Driving impressions
Aww yeah. More “snick-snick” action. Not quite the feel of a British gearbox, but this is as close as you’re gonna get it. Surprisingly, the shifting is not only more notchy, but it’s smoother too. Your 0 – 60 times may improve because the gears shift more cleanly and accurately. It’s like before they were approximating the target and now they hit it dead on, every time (2ZZ guys: this may be a defense against YAMS). I don’t know about you, but when I shift, I want to be a pro hitman putting the crosshairs on the target. Slam that stick, you’re in gear. This mod totally rocks.

Update: No apparent increase in stick vibration – the OEM bushings serve no purpose except adding play where you don’t want it.

I am pleased to say you cannot do much damage if you start to get this wrong. The only words of caution are make sure you don’t stress the wiring in the console when you are taking it off, and once you have unstitched the old gaiter from its frame you are committing yourself to putting the new one on.

To take off the old one:

1. Undo the 2 screws on each side of the centre console. The back one is easily accessed by pushing the seat forward. The front is a bit more difficult because the seat is in the way. I have a handy 90° Philips screwdriver, or alternatively you might have to remove the seats. 4 bolts I understand but I have never done it.

2. Unscrew gear knob

3. Unclip the piece of plastic immediately under the hand brake.

4. Pull the console up from the back, and tip it towards the front then once it is clear of the handbrake and gear lever, tip it slightly to one side, being careful not to damage or stress the wiring.

5. Clip the wiring. A connector to each of the window switches, and 2 clips holding the wires to the underside of the console. All 4 are held in by little clips which you might be able to press with your fingers, or if not a small flat screwdriver should do the trick.

6. With this done you can now take the whole console away from the car.

Turn the console upside down to take out the old gaiter:

1. Note the position of the felt that is glued to the inside bottom of the gaiter. This produces the vertical edge where the leather comes out of the console aperture, which you might want to reproduce with the new gaiter. This is glued on, just pull it off.

2. The gaiter has a wire frame at the bottom which is held in place by 4 little plastic triangular shaped clips, 2 on each side. Bend these clips back as far as you can, then ease the frame out. I used a chisel with the cover still on its head, placed it between the console and the frame, and twisted. It popped out.

3. Turn the old gaiter inside out, and you will see how the silver “ring” at the top is kept in position by a metal circular clip. The clip sits in a recessed groove on the ring body. Remember this for refitting, and undo it.

4. This is the point of no return! Unpick the stitching of the gaiter around the rectangular metal frame.

Fitting the new gaiter takes a bit of trial and error:

If you have a Rhonda gaiter she has given you a little extra material, so you can have it looking floppy (within the confines of the leather) or taut.

1. Turn the new gaiter inside out, and push the silver ring body narrow end first towards the narrow end of the gaiter. Replace the metal clip (or use a rubber band until you have the positioning just right), so that it resembles the original in the photo above.

2. Then turn it out the right way, by holding the silver ring body, and working it through the gaiter. The idea is to get the top of the ring exposed, with the leather folding back on itself, as below.

3. The frame has a little bump on each of its two long sides. These are placed downwards into the gaiter, so when refitting they provided the tension to hold the frame against the clips.

4. Then comes the fiddly bit of fitting the frame on. I found that the frame would actually clip into the console and hold the leather taught without actually gluing, stitching or clipping the leather to the frame. Certainly do it “loose” like this until you are certain you have it right.

5. Feed the gaiter through the aperture from the underside of the console. The gaiter has a bit more material in its body at one side. This is supposed to point to the rear of the car to compensate for a slight lean forward of the lever. Push the frame hard onto the console aperture sides with your thumbs and it will click into place. Try hard to ensure that the frame sits squarely in the gaiter so that there is the same amount of leather all the way round.

6. First time of doing this you will probably find the leather has moved so there is more on one side or the other. If so try again.

Refit the console;

At this stage don’t bother to re-clip the wiring. Feed the gear lever up through the gaiter and replace the gear knob.

Get the console sitting firm and square;

and view how the gaiter looks, both in neutral and in each of the gears. If it’s not quite to your liking, take the console off and try again. The ring body at the top can be moved down the gaiter, and the ring frame at the bottom can also be adjusted to give more or less leather. When you have finished make sure you replace the wire clamp on the ring body if you have used an elastic band as a temporary fix. You could leave it on, but it might perish!

Once it is to your liking and prior to permanent fixing, you might want to clean the console using your preferred cleaner.

Consider if you want to replace the felt?

I have. There maybe some sticky left on it, but a contact adhesive will ensure it stays in place. You may have to cut a small piece of it since the inside edge of the new gaiter is slightly shorter than the old because of the stitching and fold back on the 4 corners. The picture below shows the overlap before I cut it, and also shows the temporary fix elastic band.

You may want to fold the leather “hanging loose” back on itself, and again a contact adhesive will hold it. Don’t staple, they will only rust! If you feel sure of yourself you could do this with the frame off the console (and you may even try stitching), or you could do it with it on. To be honest I didn’t bother, and left it “dangling” as above..

Finally refit the console to the car:

Remember to put the wiring sockets and clips back in. Replace the fixing screws, screw on the gear lever knob, and there you go, a nice new gaiter.

Put the back of the car on stands. You will absolutely need a trolley jack later in the procedure, so don’t even dream about trying this with only the emergency jack. At some points, when you’re hauling and shoving at things down there, you’ll be very glad the vehicle is secure.

Remove the rear and center shields (aka: diapers). Note which fasteners are screws and which ones are poppets, as they are just as much fun to refit as they are to remove.

Here’s the rear mount. Easy to get to, easy to remove. Before you unbolt it from the frame, pad your trolley jack saddle and place it beneath the bell housing. You don’t want to lift the motor, you just want to fully take its weight off the mounts.

And here’s the front mount. You’ll have just barely enough room to get to it. Keep your tools at arm’s reach. Unlike the rear mount, with its four bracket bolts, the front mount only has three. That’s the good news. The bad news is that only the lower center is easy to get to. The others require patience and good tools. I’ve circled all three. The one you can’t see is the one that will test you.

I recommend doing the mounts one at a time. You could do them both at once, but if you slip out of alignment, you’ll need friends to help horse the motor back into position. So first I removed the rear mount, and cleaned it thoroughly. That’s the editor way.

Here’s the rear inserts snapping into place. I lubricated the inner part with WD-40, to aid in fitment and hopefully give myself a bit of relief as the mounts resettle. WD-40 will disipate eventually, so I thought this a wise move.

Have your assistant (no photos, I was under the car!) give the jack small inputs until the center holes line up, then shoot the center bolt home. Torque the bracket bolts to 38 ft/lbs, torque the center bolt to 66 ft/lbs.

Here’s the troublesome bolt on the front mount. It actually goes in the other way, but I thought you’d like to see the position. Reinstall the mount, double-check your work, and wipe down and clean and lubricate all the parts you have access to down here. This is a great opportunity since the shields are off and you’re down here anyway. As always, I was pleased to note the general cleanliness and good operating condition of my Spyder.

Driving impressions: No vibration on startup. A good sign. I began to experence some faint vibration or buzzing when launching out of first, and in engaging second gear on rolling starts. It could be worse, but I’m pretty well braced up already with Corky’s and Che’s. A rear STB would probably help. Once into third and beyond there are no vibration effects. In first and second, there’s now no lag on throttle – the accelerator pedal instantly pushes the car forward. Nothing extreme here, but a general sense of things being tightened up and more solid-state, more fly-by-wire. I suspect my 0-60 time is slightly improved. I may add more comments later after the mounts break in fully, a period I expect to take between four to eight weeks, depending on much I get to run the car.

PITA factor: Minimal, maybe two brewskies. Aligning the front mount bracket bolts took a long time, as it was difficult to force the polyurethane blocks through the bracket. I used a screwdriver through the center bolt track to horse the mount up and down, side to side, until the bolts finally seated.