This is a “how to” with some pictures that may assist in taking out our manual tranmissions. If your doing the removal yourself like I did you should alot 4 plus hours for your first time just to remove the tranny. It now takes me about an hour and half to drop my MT and the same to put it back. Its more prep time and making sure you don’t forget to undo something that may hang up the tranny when lowering it.
List of tools:
30 mm 12 point socket to remove the drive shaft nut (Ace Hardware)
14 mm 6 point socket to remove most bolts on tranny, engine mounts
17 mm 6 point socket to remove the two top tranny bolts and control arms
12 mm 6 point socket to remove battery tray, top engine mount bracket, ground wire to tranny
10mm 6 point socket to remove neg on battery etc
22 or 24mm 6 point to remove oil drain plug
Different length
extenders for sockets and universal joints for some angles to get socket on the bolts
1 Large flat head screw driver or small “pry bar” to pop off driver side axle
1 Jack two is better
3 Jack stands, two to hold up car one for engine when tranny is out (or jack to hold engine up)
Braker bar ( most tranny bolts are on with 50 ft lbs or less) not to bad
*2 cargo straps one with ratcheting ( time saver and makes removing / installing the tranny SO MUCH EASIER)
Dremmel or small hack saw to cut out small piece of the front engine mount to access the clutch release cylinder (so you don’t have to disconnect and bleed the clutch system)
1 Step stool
1 funnel
1 roll of paper towels
Now for the fun.
While the car is on the ground loosen the 30mm bolt holding the axle shaft. Make sure you bend up the locking tab on the nut I used a hole punch then a screw driver.
Remove the rear crossbrace (14mm) then battery and air box all the way up to the intake.
Remove the battery tray assembly 12mm
Remove the two pins holding the shift cables make sure to mark one of the cables to know which one goes to which pin. I use a paper towel and wire to mark the longest cable.
Remove the back up plug, bolt to ground wire 12mm
Remove the bolt holding down the wire harness to the transmission 12mm
Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the rear of the car
Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the front of the car. Its not easy to see but with a long screw driver or pry bar you can move around the engine hoses & wire harness to put on the socket
Now jack up the car and make sure you use jack stands. I have the smaller type 2 ton, you’ll need to raise the car high enough to slide the tranny out. I went three or four exposed notches.
When under the the car I started with the starter bolts 14mm
Then the two bolt holding the clutch cylinder 12mm
Then remove the the engine long bolt 14mm or 17mm and the three bolts 14mm holding the mount to the car and the bolt at the rear lower transmission 14mm
Remove the holding clip and then cut out a notch with a dremmel to slide the clutch cylinder out
Remove the two 14mm bolts behind the header. You might need extensions and universal joint with the scoket & ratchet.
Remove the lower tranny bolts 14mm
Remove the lower control arms bolts 17mm. The nut with the dial remove. The other control arms you must turn the bolt not the nuts. The nuts have a spike on back of them that will not let it turn. The bolts are the way to go.
Remove the three amigo header bolts and pop off the down pipe (you don’t need to remove the down pipe)
Place a oil pan under the tranny then remove the oil drain nut 22mm or 24mm. drain the oil.
I used an air chisel fork to pop off the axle a large flat head screw driver or small prybar will work (the air chisel fork was used as a pry bar only not hooked up to an air source, the bit has a turned up side like a fork has and that gives it a little more leverage). Turn the other wheel a little at a time until it just pops off. Don’t force it, keep turning the other wheel a little at a time until it comes off there is a C-clip that needs to slip down so the shaft slides out.
Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 4 bolts 14mm to the car.
This part you’ll need a jack to support the engine and lower it a little to slide out the tranny (only one engine mount will be attached) don’t drop it to low. Also, I used a jack stand as add comfort, I placed it an inch lower (just in case)
First replace the strut crossmember brace, then tie off one end of the cargo strap to it and wrap it around the bell housing through the engine mount brackets and hook or tie off ( leave slack to lower the engine two to three inches) Then place the jack under the oil pan closet to the bell housing, I used the first rib line. Don’t place it under the lowest widest part of the oil pan, that is where the oil pick up is and you don’t want to damage it. Depending on how high your jack goes, up I used a 4×4 the same length as my jack, my jack is small 2 ton. Jack up the engine just to take the load off the mount.
Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 3 bolts 14mm to the tranny
The arrow pointing to the left it where I place my flat head screw driver to pry the bell housing a little.
At this point slide under the car and slide the tranny to the wheel side. All its wight will be supported by the cargo strap. FYI the tranny weighs around 65 or 70 lbs. not to heavy
Go back up and lower the tranny using the strap to the ground, slide it out.
Putting it back
Slide the tranny back under the car wrap one of the cargo straps back around the bell housing through engine mount brackets over the strut crossbrace like before.
New part: next place the ratcheting cargo strap around the small end of the tranny. You want to angle the transmission up into place parallel to the engine. You want to zig zag the straps up.
Rotate the tranny in the straps to align the tranny up. I was turning the tranny counter clockwise a few times when I was ratcheting it up.
When you have the tranny line up with the straps slide back under the car and push the tranny up and towards the engine. If its aligned up it will slide into place fairly easy. When you feel the drive shaft slide into the clutch your all most home. Make sure the bolt holes line up and the two pins and it should pop into place. I hand tightened the bolt just under the “pin” next to the header and the lower bolt closer to the firewall, then snug them down. Then put in the top two bolts and work your way around. Do the starter bolts after the Driver side tranny mount is installed.
At this point you should have 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine. Two large 17mm bolts on top two 14mm on the bottom and one 14mm bolt by the header. reattach the driver top engine mount bracket 3 12mm or 14mm bolts to the tranny then jack the engine/tranny up so you can slide the thru bolt to hold the tranny and engine mount together. The jack under the engine can come out the engine is supported by the two mounts. Then do everything in reverse and don’t forget to fill with gear oil.
Best of all we can use this cap (12mm bolt) at the top of the transmittion to fill with oil (no mess), unbolt and turn, its held in with a gasket
The final step filling with a funnel.
** IF YOU DON”T GET THE PINS TO LINE UP WITH THE BOLT HOLES SOMETHING IS MISS ALIGNED.** most likely the clutch is not centered after a clutch change. Don’t force the tranny in, just lower and check the clutch by loosing a few bolts on the housing and recenter the clutch and tighten it back to spec
OK, after managing to find myself a new Toyota soft-top at a fraction of the standard new price I was stuck wondering if I should attempt to fit it myself or put it to a garage/fitter for peace of mind. Toyota said it would take 8 hours to do and quoted me something like £700 inc vat to fit. I managed to get my own hands on a guide of sorts so I thought I might as well give it a go as it was forecast to be a nice weekend. I have not finished the re-assembly yet but I thought I would post pics of the disassembly. From fully fitted to entirely removed took me 2.5 hours on my own – and I am far from a mechanical expert, a year ago I had never even changed a car’s oil or fitted a new air filter.
Here is the car as it looked first thing this morning. I had fitted a perspex window which was fastened on with pop-rivets. Less than ideal but kept the wind and rain out save for a bit of moisture from time to time. If anyone else finds themselves in my boat I would recommend it as a quick fix as there isn’t much that can be done with the old roof.
1. Pop off the scuff plates on both sides of the car. There are 4 clips which hold them on, push them inwards with a screwdriver or similar object to unlatch them. I used a current testing tool, with a pointed end which turned out to be perfect for this and the other steps that require a similar action.
2. Remove the ‘lower rear separator covers’ by pulling out the fastenings marked on both sides of the car. I used my fingers for some and a pair of needle nose pliers for the more stubborn ones. You might want to wrap the latter in duck tape or similar if you’re protective about the condition of your fastenings. Once the fittings are out, lift the whole thing out of the cabin.
3. Remove ‘quarter trim panels’. First step is to undo the bolt which fastens the seatbelt to the floor.
Now pop out the two fastenings at the top of each quarter panel. You just pop the central circle down with a pointy object (I used my trusty circuit tester again) and then you can lift them out. Once complete, pop out the panel and feed the seatbelt through the slot to remove completely.
4. Remove luggage compartment lids. Not much to mention here, undo the 6 bolts which hold them on. The lids are remarkably heavy, I might leave them off once I’ve finished to save a bit of weight.
5. Remove luggage compartment boxes. First thing’s first, undo the 2 screw/bolts on the vertical face of each compartment:
Then unclip this wire and pop it out of the driver’s side box using pliers on the fastening underneath.
Then lift out each box starting with the passenger side – the way it fastens prohibits removal of the driver’s side compartment first.
6. Disconnect seatbelt from shoulder height fastening point. 1 bolt holds it in place.
7. Pop out the pull leaver front plate, unscrew the two fastenings behind it and remove.
8. Remove wind deflector. Pop out the two plates which conceal the fastening nuts.
Then unscrew it in 4 places and lift out.
9. Remove luggage compartment cover/garnish.
These two bits are held on with a bunch of plastic clips.
10. Remove tarpaulin material from horizontal frame. 4 screwing caps undone and it’s off the cross bar.
Then make sure it’s unpopped from the fabric at each side too, and remove.
11. Remove horizontal frame/cross bar, 2 bolts at either side of it and it’s out.
12. Remove ‘room partition board’. This is the acrylic wool covered plastic ‘floor’ for the back of the interior. It is fastened with three plastic clips which pop out. Left right & centre.
Notice however that to access this you need to lift up the ‘parcel shelf’. This wasn’t mentioned in my guide but it pushes on to the clip that you can see in the hole of the board. It also attaches via two lengths of chord to the frame of the soft top here:
These just unclip and fold out to release the chord at either side.
13. Unscrew the soft-top from its fittings.
There are a bunch of nuts (circled in red) which keep the top bolted. Undo all of the ones at the back, now look at the miniature steel frame that runs along the side of the roof.
There are 4 or 5 nuts of varying kinds to undo here, then there is the one which I have pointed an arrow to. It’s pretty hard to get to so use an extension for your socket wrench. Little did I know at this point that it is 20 times harder to get back on afterwards!
14. Pull aside the remaining interior tarpaulin material from around the main pillar fixing. I don’t have a picture for this, but there also 3 more screws from memory that hold the main pillar onto the body. One is a large brass coloured bolt, the other two are just regular screws.
15. Now take a visual note of any extra tarpaulin material and move it out of place if required. You should pick up some double sided tape to stick it back into position once the new top is on. Start to move the soft top’s rubber lining outward from the car body like so:
There is a sort of steel gasket which runs along the back length of the window – remember to put this back on first before screwing the nuts back on when you come to fit the new top.
Once it’s been pulled off the bolts that are attached to the body, remove the whole thing with the aid of a helper, lifting upwards from the main pillar.
Et Voila!
This image has been automatically resized. Click to view original at 800×600
Re-installation is the same procedure in reverse.
I have been running with my new roof on for 2 weeks now, no problems so far. It feels great to be able to get the top down again
How To: Install a Clutch in a 2nd Generation Toyota MR2
by Pat Signorino & Shane Craddock | August 8, 2002 1:05 pm
This article is a mish mash of several other articles, and many clutch installs. I put this here to help someone perform their first clutch job, and is not intended to replace the BGB. If something I’ve shown differs from the BGB, go with the BGB instructions.
Step 1: Remove the Starter
There are some electrical connectors usually covered by a black plastic cover.
Be sure to have your battery disconnected first. The black box covers 2 of the wires. Pop it off.
Use the 14mm on that bad boy. Pull the two wires off, and put the nut back on, then replace the black box so you don’t lose them.
There is one connector to the passenger side of the black box.
Unclip that little guy.
Finally, there are two large bolts connecting the starter body to the transmission. These bolts are close to the tranny, and not the skinny ones easily visible at the end of the starter. Unbolt them with a socket and medium extension. Pull the starter out of the tranny, and set it down somewhere without damaging the teeth on the gear.
Disconnect the backup light switch (gray electrical connector on top of the tranny), ground cables (multiple, don’t worry if you can’t find them at this point, you will definitely find them when you start to drop the tranny down), and Speedo cable or Speed Sensor from the tranny.
Here’s a picture of the 91 speedo sensor. 10mm bolt holding it to the tranny at the bottom right.
Remove the rear wheels and raise the car. Place the wheels under the car for safety. You want to support it under the body in front of the rear wheels with jack stands. Note: Ignore the stand in the middle in this picture.
Remove the plastic undertray from below the car. 5 10mm bolts. Drain the tranny fluid.
Push the axles through the axle carriers. This will involve many steps. First, set the parking brake, and take the rear wheels off.
A: Take the cotter pins and axle end caps off.
Parking brake still on right? It’s 32mm socket and breaker bar time. Jeez.
This might help so the socket doesn’t slip off like it did on me multiple times. The pressure from the jack keeps the socket on the bolt where it would normally want to torque/twist off.
Remove the discs with a 10mm bolt screwed into the two small holes to get the disc to pop off the assembly if necessary, see pic…
C: Disconnect sway bar from the end links. 14mm wrench and hex wrench.
D: Disconnect balljoint from lower suspension arm. 2 17mm bolts.
E: Disconnect adjustment arm from brake assembly.
Pop axles through the brake assembly. Before you do this you will have to undo the two strut bolts that connect the strut to the axle carrier (19mm). Use a piece of wood and hammer to hit the axles straight towards the engine. This may take a lot of hits, keep at it, it will free up, and pop through.
They should come out of the carriers and look like this
Remove right hand (passenger) axle only. There are a few ways to do this, the one I used was to remove the axle carrier and just pull the axle out. This first pic is looking through the crossmember at the back of the engine. From below, remove the following
1: Two carrier bolts (removed already)
2: Support brackets nut (removed already)
3: Short support bracket end bolt
4: Long support bracket end bolt
Now, once the bracket is loose (pop it off the block with a screwdriver so it’s free) just pull on the entire axle assembly, and it will dance out of the tranny.
Here’s the whole thing. I think this way is much easier than the BGB way. Thanks to Shane Craddock for the idea on this.
Disconnect the tranny control cables.
The starter (red circle) should give you a reference for where these are.. Pop the 2 clips off with a screwdriver or pliers, pull the cables off, and put back the washers and clips. One cable has 1 washer, and the other has 2, don’t mix them up.
Now, get under the car, and pop these two mount clips off the cables with a screw driver and hammer. They pop straight up and off.
Then push the cables out of the mounts so that they are free floating.
Here’s another shot of a clip partially off.
Here they are disconnected from below.
Remove Exhaust system.
Aftermarket systems are much easier than stock. You may want to use some PB Blaster on all of the bolts a day before hand to make your life easier. If you strip out a stud/nut/bolt, be prepared to drill it out. Notice I previously drilled out the stock studs, and used nuts and bolts instead.
3 on the cat.
2 on the rear b-pipe with the Greddy Power Extreme system.
The rest of the pics show the 3 hanger locations.
Remove Slave Cylinder and Front Motor Mount through bolt and Tranny side of the motor mount
Time to get the slave cylinder off the tranny otherwise you’ll have to cut the lines which would not make things any easier on you later.
The Slave Cylinder can be challenging to remove and install. It’s hard to see the bolts, and to reach them. There are only 4 bolts to worry about. In the past I’ve always seen people (myself included) undoing most of the pictured bolts just because you can’t see what’s holding it on from above or below very well. The top two just hold it down to the tranny. The bottom two sandwich it to the front motor mount and the tranny. The motor mount is not pictured in this pic.
The next few pics are of an install, but will still be helpful, just do the reverse. Under the car, lining up that bolt hole on the right to make things easier.
First step to installing it, temporarily mount the two lower bolts without the engine mount installed.
Here you can see the upper bolt on the drivers side being tightened down with a small wrench and small socket. This is to give you an idea where the bolt is.
Same as above.
Another pic of that bolt.
Here’s the upper passenger side bolt being tightened down. Notice the longer socket than the drivers side bolt.
Another angle of the passenger side bolt.
Finally, remove the lower two bolts which were loosely on there, and put the motor mount on, then re-install the two lower bolts.
At this point it’s a good idea to use a jackstand and a 2×4 to support the engine. Put the 2×4 under the low part of oil pan, not the transmission. We want to keep the engine where it is so we can remove the motor mounts safely. Later it may be necessary to raise and lower the engine to get the transmission on and off. Keep that in mind and allow yourself space for a jack.
Remove the through bolt for the front motor mount.
On the left, the through bolt is removed, and on the right in the tranny side of the motor mount there are two bolts that due to lack of space must be undone with a wrench. The reason to pull these off is because they are holding the slave cylinder to the tranny.
Unbolt rear motor mount through bolt.
I: If the car has ABS, detatch ABS line from the crossmember. 1 10mm bolt on each side. Also, be careful to move the ABS line above the swaybar, or you might damage it when you drop the crossmember.
J: Unbolt assembly arm from car body.
The left arrow points to a crossmember bolt that’s coming up next. The arrow on the right shows you a better shot of the assembly arm.
K: Time to drop the crossmember. Break the bolts loose, but do not take them out yet.
Now is a good time to get another person to help, or use a jack to support the crossmember. Undo the four bolts the rest of the way. Lower the crossmember and pull it out.
Remove drivers side motor mount bolts
From below, these bolts hold the tranny to the tranny side of the motor mount.
The left two arrows point to the top view of the bolts we saw from below two pictures ago. The bolts on the right hold a stay bar, and a mount for the speedo cable.
Another view with bolts loose.
Feel around between the tranny and block and frame for any hoses/wires/clips/etc that are still connected. Disconnect them and don’t forget to install them later.
At this point, the BGB says “REMOVE TRANSAXLE”. Meaning, remove the transmission from the engine block. To do this, you have to unbolt many bolts all the way around the tranny, top/bottom/sides. Below are many pics of a tranny out of the car to give you an idea of where the bolts are. I removed the them in a clockwise order, and then used a marker to write down numbers on the bolt heads. This made reinstall very easy. I suggest you do some sort of organization with the bolts, otherwise you’ll be doing what I’ve seen happen twice, guessing at which bolts go where. Since some of these bolts take a lot of stress, you want to be sure to put them in their proper places. SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION WITH A JACK AND 2X4 or 2X6. YOU NEED A FRIEND TO HELP AT THIS POINT. Your helper will sit on the drivers side of the car with the jack and 2×4 under the tranny. They will raise and lower the jack to help you get the tranny out, as well as help balance the transmission. Sometimes it will be necessary to lower the engine down to get the tranny off. You should already have a jackstand and 2×4 under the oil pan. Use another jack to lower the engine. When you are lowering the tranny, you may find wires/groundstraps/hoses/etc still connected, just disconnect them and write them down on a piece of paper to reinstall when you put it back in. It can actually take some time to separate the tranny from the block. Just keep checking for bolts you may have missed. You can use flathead screwdrivers to help pry the tranny off. Be very careful on this step. The transmission is very heavy, so absolutely make sure you are ready at all times, and have a friend backing you up.
Here you can see how some of the connect to the block.
Notice the “peg” in this picture. There are a few of them in between the block and tranny, and they help position the tranny on install. They also make it a pain to seperate the tranny and block sometimes. Be aware of them.
Here are some about to be removed.
This what the BGB shows you.
Once you get that badboy off and out of the way, you’ll have something like this sticking to the engine (ok, hopefully not this damaged!). Remove this clutch cover and then the clutch disc (14ft lbs on reinstall). There are multiple bolts connecting it to the flywheel. Note which way the clutch is facing. There is a right way and a wrong way, the center section sticks out on one side, and not on the other.
Remove the 8 bolts on the flywheel. Note this is a resufaced flywheel, your old one won’t look quite so nice.
Here’s a new stock clutch on the left next to an old stock one on the right.
Aftermarket on the left.
Old clutch cover.
Here’s the flywheel after being “turned”. In order to maximize the life and biting power of the new clutch, you will want to take your old flywheel to a machine shop to have it turned. Definitely do this!
Another resurfaced flywheel.
Reinstall the newly resurfaced flywheel. Put a drop of locktite or threadlocker on each of the bolts, and torque them down to 72ft lbs in a criss cross pattern, do one pass at 20ft lbs, another at 40, another at 60, then 72.
Clean the hell out of the flywheel and clutch cover with brake cleaner.
FYI: You want to clean the flywheel after it’s on the car otherwise it will get dirty from the install.
Install the clutch cover with the clutch in between the cover and flywheel, facing the correct way.
Use the tool that comes with most clutches to center the clutch disc. Just use your best guess, it can still be adjusted later.
I can’t stress this cleaning and greasing part enough, do this well or you will have a squeaky clutch in neutral. Remove old throwout bearing and release fork, clean them with Brake Cleaner as well. Grease the inside of the new throwout bearing, and the mating surfaces where it meets the the realease fork. Also grease the end of the realease fork where the slave cylinder pushrod connects. I used some lithium grease for this entire section. Be sure that you do a good job on the cleaning, and when greasing, don’t get any large gobs anywhere otherwise some could get on the clutch surfaces and ruin it. Reinstall tranny. Here we’ve got the tranny and engine on jacks, (normally the balance point of the tranny is closer towards the drivers side, but once you’ve got it on, you can move the jack around as shown in this pic) and raised the tranny up, and slid it over onto the engine. You can see a hand at the top starting one of the first bolts. If you are having trouble mounting the tranny on, try to get one of the larger bolts started, but don’t strip it out. Once you get one started, you can move on to the other bolts that are near it. You also have to line up the splines with the clutch disc otherwise the tranny will not slide all the way on, and this can take a few tries. Then you have to get the tranny mated to the block. Just start trying to get the large bolts started. Once you get one or two going, tighten them down a bit, and try the others. Remember the pegs sticking out of the block. These have to be centered first before you can start any of the bolts. Have a friend help raise and lower the tranny and engine to line them up while you try to start some of the bolts.
Note: Be careful when putting the passenger axle back in to not damage the outer seal by putting it in at an angle otherwise you’ll have a tranny fluid leak there. I think we were crossing our fingers in this pic because it’s tough getting those new seals in there correctly 🙂
Engines: Compatiblity / Grocery List
1997+: 1MZ-FE
Best choice for swap.
1992-1996: 1MZ-FE
Compatible, but not recommended.
Early 90’s 3vz is proven to work also*
Source Cars:
Avalon
Solara
Lexus ES300
Camry
What to Buy / Get with Engine:
“remember to get a 97+ manual motor w/ ecu or you will have drama”
— Engine Long Block -dugh
— Transmission (97+ recommended, not required for Turbo owners)
— AC Compressor
–Alternator*
— AC Lines to compressor (cut)
— Alternator
— Engine Mounts
— Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there)
— ECU
— ECU Harness (uncut)
— Dash Plugs that go to ECU
— Tachometer from 97+ 1MZ-FE Car (only if you started with a NA tach
— Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)*optional
— 94+ V6 Intermediate Shaft (with 6 bolts on CV joint) *must be modified
Credits -derek2000GT
Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read
There aren’t really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don’t worry about upsetting your balance.
Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT)
There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you’d like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003)
Engine Mounts: General
Someone should definitely post some blueprints here.
“In total there are 5 possible mounts–3 for the tranny and 2 for the engine (anterior and posterior). The passenger side 3S-GTE/5S-FE engine mount must be abandoned if you anticipate putting a supercharger on (and who doesn’t).” -chall
I have built two motor mounts that use the pass side mount. Complete fabrication of all mounts is not necessary but recommended if you want a mount to absorb any engine noise.
Fuel Return: Adapting Properly
The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accomodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from a 3VZ-FE which is a direct fit.
3VZ-FE Option
“This is old news to Camry guys but a 3VZ-FE return fuel rail system will bolt right on to 1MZ-FE. this set up gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. …if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in.
…if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail i would highly reccommend the 3VZ-FE rail install…save time and will be 100% OEM.” -derek2000GT
Tapping the Rail Option
“The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system.” -chall
I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars.
Tachometer: Get it Working
“You will need to buy a tach from a 97+ 1MZ-FE equipped car. (AVALON, CAMRY, SOLARA, SEINNA, ES300) The tachs are the same on all models and will bolt right into cluster w/ no mods at all.” -derek2000GT
“It is almost scary how plug and play most Toyota parts are, at least in this swap. The tach looks virtually identical to the stock MR2 tach (the mechanical part that attaches to the back of the face). …we found that the tach slips right in and, thud, no tach adaptor needed.” -chall
“You will need the tach overlay for an NA MKII MR2. It has a 180 deg sweep with a 6300 redline. As oppesed to a 180 deg sweep 7000 redline/ 7250 revlimit Turbo gauge. Without it your tach will be completely inaccurate. It fits and has the same font/ look as other MR2 gauges.” -Luke
I have also used a 1k ohm resistor and diode hooked to two of the negative sides of the coils and used the stock tach. If I’ve not updated the link, I will shortly.
Using V6 Transmission: Shift Linkage
“You will have to drill hole on front side for rod for MR2 linkage
and buy a cover (has 4 bolts on other side of linkage)” -derek2000GT
BUT:
“The block-transmission bolt patterns on the 5S-FE, 3S-GTE, and the 1MZ-FE are the same. Any transmission that works with one engine should work with any of them.” -chall
(This includes manual transmissions)
Some Info About VVT-I
VVT-I Engines availble only in automatic, until 2003. (Manual Tranny bolts on though)
Wiring / ECU issues will need to be addressed, due to automatic transmission errors
TRD is developing piggyback VVT-I ECU, available 2003
A piggyback VVT-I controller is neccessary to properly run. (Wolf EMS: http://www.wolfems.com.au) -derek2000GT
Driveshafts: Adaption and Conversion
“The V6 intermediate shaft (A) bolt right to MR2 CV joint on passenger side. ….Use a V6 intermediate shaft that has 6 bolts on CV joint which is same a MR2 so you can bolt to outer MR2 axle” -derek2000GT
The 93+ Turbo drivers side driveshafts should fit properly, without any adjustments.
*EDIT*
Please see the FAQ on this, you will have to machine a new C-clip for the driveshaft to work. No one has successfully found a shaft that will correctly fit the V6 mount and MR2 tranny. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. (I want specific model and year info along with a quick photo if possible)
Radiator hoses I used
(1)71704 Hose to connect to the factory pipe in the engine bay, left side.
(2) 80413 Heater hoses 90 degree bend on the end.
These hoses work real well. I had to cut them to fit,but have the correct bends and are reasonably priced.
The right side hose will be a little harder, but consists of cutting the pipe under the car, rotating the bend roughly 90 degrees, and routing the hose up the firewall just on the outside of the Belt. I will post pics of this when I’m finished later this week.
Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified, see SCC’s how to install a V6 for the most simple solution.
**Pete94t**
IF you don’t want cruise, you can re-route the main line under the car to the driver’s side and it’s the perfect length to the throttle body, with no junction boxes the pedal feel is better.
**Edit**
This works well, I have this done on my Yellow 91.
**Chall**
Technically speaking, the solara/camry transmission is the E351, not the E153, and I think this denotes the difference in drive gear ratios and final drive. Also, the synchros are much better than in the ’91-’93 turbo transmission. If you have the turbo transmission it will work, but you run out of first gear more quickly. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. this lets you get rid of the speedo cable, which removes one of the major hassles of taking the MR2 guage cluster out. Of course, you will need the linkage from an MR2 transmission and also need to drill a hole to use this linkage on the solara tranny–easy to do.
The half shafts are turbo on the driver’s side, and solara on the passenger side only because there is a 1/8″ or 3mm*** difference in the carrier bearing position. Turbo shafts will fit nicely in the solara transmission. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. It is impossible to combine the two shafts to make one as the type of CV joint on the solara shaft is enclosed and the diameter of the shaft in the CV joint is smaller.
Personally, I think that the passenger side mount for the engine should be abandoned altogether because you cannont add the supercharger and you will definitely want to add the supercharger. Front and rear engine mounts are not hard to fabricate and I have autocad diagrams of one design, but not the only design by any means.
–I have lowered my compression ratio by using 8.5:1 JE pistons and Eagle 22R rods but the rods take machining to thin them for the 1MZ (by .135 per side) and they are about .012 different in their C-C. But you can get them on Ebay and they are an initial $350 investment plus whatever it costs in your area to machine them. When and if you order pistons, let them know so that you can get pistons with the piston pin positon correct.
–I would use the 1MZ alternator. What Luke and I did was to attach the wires to the alternator using simple electrical connections and pouring epoxy around the connections so that now we have an alternator that has the long wires attached.
Claire
*** Edit by Brad, Original was 1cm
**Chall**
If I am understanding correctly, you are asking whether the turbo transmission without LSD uses the same axles as the LSD E153 and the Solara 351. I put a Toyota MR2 LSD into a Camry 5 speed (year 2000) and it uses the MR2 axles that I had machined to move the carrier bearing retainer groove. Of course, the differential defines which axles are used in these transaxles, so using an MR2 LSD (which fits exactly) guarantees that the turbo axles will work.
I don’t have succesful experience with mixing axles. I tried it but perhaps I used a too new axle to try to change the intermediate shaft, as the newer axles from the Solara/Camry are entirely different from the ’90/’95 US MR2 axles. It cost me $50 to have the turbo axle machined, and I thing that was kind of a rip-off.
Here is what I think about the swap:
–Not much needs to be done to the 1MZ-FE itself unless you are going to more than 4 PSI of boost. Derek has found that the return fuel system from other engines works well, or you can simply drill and tap both ends of the fuel rail and make a U-shape out of it to make a return system.
–You can use the stock Solara/Camry ECU, auto or manual, with the wiring diagrams that Luke worked out.
–I would abandon the passenger mount and make front and rear engine mounts for the 1MZ-FE so that you can supercharge later.
–I would abandon the turbo/NA water system after the main pipes beneath the gas tank, and connect more directly with a couple of pipe bends.
–I would get rid of the brake booster line across the firewall.
–I would move the oil filter with a remote kit.
–I would have the passenger axle machined.
–If you want A/C, have the MR2 lines tig welded to the 1MZ-FE lines. There may be much better solutions; I don’t know.
–You can direct connect the cruise control to the throttle and the throttle body very simply, but you have to move the throttle cable to the drivers’ side.
–I prefer the ratios of the Camry/Solara transmission E351 over those of the MR2 E153.
Overall, this is a simple process and should not take long if you prepare for it.
**SBCelicaGT**
1MZFE engine debuted in 1992. in 1997 it was updated with among other small changes, a returnless fuel system. later on it had VVTi as an option. all 3 generations of engine are aluminum. the 92-96 return fuel rails will bolt to the gen2 engines. or you can make your own returnless fuel system and it doesnt require any drilling or tapping.
axles: all the solara/avalon/sienna/ etc. axles I have seen arent rebuildable. I.E. they dont have the bolts in the middle to attach the inner and outer sections.
the mr2 turbo inner axles work just fine with the Solara tranny. the only mod you need to do is to slot the carrier bearing mount ever so slightly as it will be off by a few millimeters. For the celicas, you can then bolt outer alltrac axles to the inner turbo axles. for you mr2 guys, you can just use the whole turbo axles.
ecu: auto tranny ecu will work but you will have ECU codes till you find a way to fool the ECU into thinking there is an A/T in your engine bay by way of wiring resistors to the ends of the solonoid plug. Easy fix.
These studs fit the motor with no modifications. Torque them to 65lbs with the ARP lube.
Rod updateMill down the big and small end of the rod .270 (.135 on each side)
Modify either a set of 22R rod bearings so that they fit the new rod width, or modify the bearing locator slots in the rods.
You’ll have to radius the big end to get it to fit into the cylinder bore. *OR* I think boring the motor .040 would do the trick.
Also, be advised that you are adding close to 100 grams of weight to each cylinder. Adding metal to the counter weights on the crank will be necessary.
Good news, the Eagle rods will be tons of overkill on this engine. I suspect the block will fail before the new rods.
Eagle rods for the 22R will work. You will need to do the following:
I noticed the only info for this is a link to Spyder Chat so I made a record when replacing mine, if it’s any use you can use it
While having my tyres replaced I noticed the rear discs & pads were getting worn/corroded and as the MOT is due next month I thought it best to replace them to give time for bedding in.
Here again is a picture record of how it was done (showing rust and all) using tools not necessarily recommended by the manufacturer
JACK UP
SUPPORT CAR
REMOVE WHEEL
REMOVE SLIDER BOLT (12mm RING SPANNER)
ONCE BOLT IS REMOVED
PIVOT UP THE PISTON ASSEMBLY AND SLIDE OFF TOP PIN (This can be a little awkward but it is doable)
YOU CAN NOW REMOVE THE PADS WITH ANTI SQUEAL SHIMS
REMOVE TOP & BOTTOM CALIPER SUPPORT BOLTS (17mm RING SPANNER)
THE OLD DISC CAN NOW BE REMOVED 9There are two drawing holes if needed)
I USED A “WIND BACK” TOOL PURCHASED FROM HALFORDS FOR £19
THIS WAS MORE THAN ADEQUATE FOR THE JOB
WHEN DOING THIS REMOVE THE BRAKE RESERVOIR CAP AND DRAIN OFF THE EXCESS FLUID (As shown in the front brake replacement)
AFTER WINDING BACK THE PISTONS
ROTATE THE SLOTS AS IN PICTURE TO ACCOMMODATE DOWEL IN BRAKE PAD
CLEAN OFF AND LIGHTLY COAT ANTI SQUEAL SHIMS WITH COPPER GREASE
SQUEEZE SPRING CLIPS ON TOP AND BOTTOM OF CARRIER TO LOCATE SLOTS ON PAD NEAREST TO YOU
THE REAR PAD JUST SLOTS IN TO CARRIER (Note that I put a nut on the new disc to hold in place while assembling)
SLOT THE PISTON ASSEMBLY ON TO SLIDER (Again this is a bit awkward but doable)
REPLACE SLIDER BOLT AND JOB IS DONE
BEFORE MOVING OFF START THE ENGINE, PRESS HARD ON THE BRAKE PEDAL THREE OR FOUR TIMES THEN APPLY THE HANDBRAKE THREE OR FOUR TIMES (This should take up the adjustment)
First of all a disclaimer- I am not a professional, merely an ungifted amateur. This guide is simply how I installed my shifting cable bushings and I accept no responsibility for any damage or accidents you incur if you choose to follow this guide.
These are designed to replace the oem rubber bushings in the engine compartment to improve feel at the gear stick.
I felt an install guide would be useful as there were a few things i would have done differently if i was doing this again.
Bought from speedsource here
Cost about £12 shipped.
In the packet.
First be aware that the two bushings differ slightly, one is marked L for lower, and goes on the lower of the two linkages.
I unplugged the passenger side 02 sensor to give a little more room.
First remove both cable ends, simply pull off the cotter pin and remove the top washer on each one, this allows you to lift the linkage and bushing off the shaft.
Now we need to remove the oem bushings you can see in the picture above.
This can be tricky, i found the best way was to push a slim flat blade screwdriver through the rubber then lever the bushing out.
Once out you are left with an empty ring.
And two oem bushings,
The instructions now tell you to remove the lower washers from the shaft, but mine had none.
Use the supplied piece of emery cloth to clean the shafts up if they require it.
Start with the lower of the two linkages at the left hand side as it will be easier to work on whilst the other is unattached. Place the speedsource bushing marked L in the ring with the groove to the top.
You now need to secure this by putting the e clip into the groove. I highly recommend you put a rag underneath the area you are working at to catch the e clip if it drops as it needs a fair amount of force to go on. I didn’t and subsequently lost an e clip.
Once the e clip is on replace the cotter pin with one of those supplied.
Repeat for the other linkage..
Job done.
Tbh, i have not noticed a great deal of difference, perhaps because my car has only 3000 miles on it, however Magicd from spyderchat who suggested these to me to compliment the che short shifter, found them to make a big difference.
Okay here’s a write up for an air filter change. Some things may vary since I have no heat shields but this should get you through it for the most part.
Tool needed-
Phillips screwdriver
Parts needed-
New airfilter
Begin.
1.Open the hood
2.Disconnect maf. (push down on clip and pull wire harness to your right)
3.Unscrew your hose clamp.
4.Pull coolant line off of box:
here
and here
5.For more maneuverability you can pull up on these two small hoses to dissconnect
them from the rubber intake tube.
6.Push forward on these two brass clips that hold the airbox lid on from the front.
They will swing forward and remain on the bottom of the airbox so no need to worry
about them falling off.
Here on the right side
and here on the left side
Optional step:
If you want to remove the top of the airbox completely then you will have to
unscrew the screw to the left (be careful that little bugger is easy to lose) and either
unclip the wire to the right (leaving the clip on the box) or use a pair of needle nose
pliers or flat head screwdriver to get the clip off of the airbox. (leaving it on the wire)
btw you may have to take the top rear strut top bar off to get it out if you have
heat shields still.
7.Now pull up on the front of the airbox (by maf sensor) and rubber tube.
Then while holding airbox up push down on rubber tube, like this.
8.Now slide the box forward to release the back retainers for the airbox.
Here’s what they look like.
9.Now your airbox should be free to pull up and expose your filter. You may have
to lift up on it enough to get your old filter out and then try to slip your new one in.
I’m able to slide the box over to the right since I don’t have any heat shields in.
Just make sure the filter fits in flush with the box and your in good shape.
[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=spydercam;492097]10.Now make sure when you put your box back on to slide the back retainers in
like they were. Make sure they line up like my pic in step 8.
11.Now slide your rubber intake tube to the right side like this:
12.Then slide it over the top of the airbox. Now lift the front of the airbox (by the maf)
and line it up with the bottom of the rubber intake tube. Now you should be able to push
down on the airbox and tube to form this:
13.Now just push down and pull the tube tight to form a good seal.
14.Tighten your hose clamp down.
15.Clip both brass hooks back.
Here on the right side
and here on the left side
16.Plug maf wire harness back into maf.
17.Put coolant line back into place:
here
and here
18.Reconnect two small tubes back to rubber intake tube.
(if you did the optional step make sure to screw your left screw back in and
Ok I’ve read “Path To Shifting Nirvana” And it wasn’t quite clear to me on how to actually adjust the pedal. So I took some a picture and figured I would do it again.
Tools:
12mm Wrench
14mm Wrench
Flashlight/Worklight
Pair of Regular Pliers
1. Loosen the 14mm lock nut on the top of the pedal stop bolt.
2. Loosen the bolt so that the pedal moves towards you. (You will tighten it later in step 9)
3. Now using both the 14mm and the 12mm wrenches you will need to loosen the 12mm lock nut on the rod while holding the rod with the 14mm.
4. Now you can twist the rod to adjust the height of the pedal.
One Full Twist Equals About A 1/2 Inch Of Pedal Movement.
Now when looking at the two pictures above. If you want to make the engagement of clutch CLOSER to the floor then you will want to twist the rod Counter-Clockwise.
If you want the engagement of the clutch FARTHER from the floor rotate the rod Clockwise
*I had to use the pliers here to adjust the rod.*
5. At this point I like to start the car while in neutral. Once started make sure you can easily get it into 1st.
A. If it is hard to get into first then your engagement is set too low. Go back to step 4 and readjust the pedal out farther from the floor.
B. If it goes in easily then you want to go ahead and test to see where the new engagement point is by SLOWLY letting the clutch out.
I like my clutch almost on the floor. Maybe about half an inch off. Which is probably the very least that you should do. You need to set it where you feel comfortable6. Shut off car.
7. Now repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 until the engagement point is where you want it.
8. Now that it clutch is engaging where you want it you will need to re tighten the 12mm lock nut. Don’t forget to use the 14mm to hold the rod.
Now we are going to adjust the pedal stop.
I like the pedal to engage the clutch fully then move back about another 1/2 inch. That way there is no free play in the clutch pedal at all.
9. You should be able to move the clutch pedal by hand. And you should be able to feel where the clutch begins to disengage. (It’s the part where the pedal becomes very hard to push) Push the pedal in until it is at about the point where the clutch wants to disengage.
10. While holding the clutch pedal there begin to tighten the stop bolt (not the lock nut) until it touches the pedal.
Tightening down the stop bolt will make disengagement closer to the floor.
Loosening the stop bolt will make disengagement farther from the floor.
11. Now it is time to go drive the car. Noting where the engagement/disengagement points are in reference to the floor/stop bolt.
**You should be able to move the clutch off the floor at least half an inch before engagement begins. If not then you are not fully disengaging the clutch and will wear it out much quicker.**
**You should also be able to push the clutch in at least half an inch before disengagement begins. If not you are not fully engaging the clutch and will wear it out much quicker.**
12. Go back and repeat steps 9, 10, and 11 until disengagement is where you want it.
13. Tighten down the 14mm lock nut.
14. Now go drive the car and enjoy it. If any of your engagement/disengagement points feel off. Don’t be afraid to go ahead and adjust them. It only takes a minute and sometimes takes a couple tries to get right.
Editors notes: The standard freeplay is 5-15mm. The standard push rod play is 1-5mm. The standard release point is 25mm or more.
Yes, there is a SpyderMagazine article on this. But, I thought, it assumes you already know WHERE the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) is. So I thought I could make it more simple. N00b-proof, if you will. Hey, I’m learning too–may as well share the process.
The engine should be cool for this procedure, or you are likely to get burned.
First, you need to remove the ECU fuse or the positive battery terminal clamp. This allows the ECU to “reset” itself.
What you’ll need to clean the MAF:MAF cleaner (the magazine article says choke & carb cleaner is OK too, but I just bought the dedicated stuff), Phillips head screwdriver
So, pop the hood and let’s see where this puppy lives.
Oh! There he is! (blue arrow)
Let’s get a little closer. Now he’s boxed in.
OK, now we know where he is. Let’s get started.
There’s a tab on the top of the MAF sensor wire harness. Push the tab down and pull the harness away from the MAF
There are 2 Phillips head screws to be removed, as indicated by the blue arrows. They’re little, so don’t lose them when you remove them!
Loosen the screws:
Remove the screws and put them somewhere safe.
Now the MAF will lift out:
You’re ready to clean it.
Here’s what you’re aiming for–the platinum wires in there. They can be damaged, so don’t put the spray nozzle directly in contact with them.
Spray the cleaner into the MAF to spray the platinum wires.
There is a little rubber O ring (blue arrow). The SpyderMagazine article mentions you might want to remove it on the chance the cleaner might make it brittle. I didn’t see the spray getting much on there, but you can also spray it with the MAF at an angle so the spray doesn’t get near the O ring.
Put the MAF back in the way it came out (there’s only one way it will fit), and tighten the screws.
Reconnect the MAF sensor wire harness by pushing it back into place.
…and VOILA! You’re done. Go have a beer, and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Or better yet, take the Spyder for a drive, THEN have that pat and beer.
How To: Remove the ECU Fuse and Negative Battery Terminal Camp
by Hokiemule | August 11, 2008 11:37 pm
When I tried to add these pics to the n00b’s guide on MAF cleaning, it said there were too many pics. So, it gets a thread all by itself.
When you clean the MAF, you should “reset” the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to put it through a “re-learning” process. You should do this when you clean the air filter, MAF, get new O2 sensors, spark plugs, injectors, a CAI, or exhaust and/or cat back system. Anything that affects the motor.
What you’ll need:
A Spyder! (year and color vary)
The engine should be cool when you perform this procedure, or you are likely to get burned.
–and a 10 mm wrench if you’re going to remove the negative battery terminal clamp.
You have 2 options: 1) remove the ECU fuse for 20+ minutes (preferred); or 2) remove the negative battery terminal for 20+ minutes. Although less time might be required for reset, it seems that 20+ minutes is the common method. For best results, remove the terminal or ECU fuse before you clean the MAF (or do whatever you’re doing to the car that necessitates the reset).
OPTION 1 (PREFERRED): Removing the ECU fuse. This method has less “collateral damage”–it will not lead to the loss of your radio presets or clock setting.
Where is it? It’s in the fuse box on the forward driver’s side portion of the engine bay, next to the battery.
There’s a small ‘catch’ on the front (frunk side) of the fuse box cover–push it in with your finger and lift up on that end of the cover. The cover will lift off. The rear catches are like hinges, so you pivot the cover and it will disengage from that side.
When you lift the cover off, it will be ‘upside down’–turn it 180 degrees so the diagram on the inside of the cover matches up with the fuses.
Examining the fuse diagram on the fuse box inside cover, you’ll see the ECU fuse as the 2nd one from the bottom on the left side (in the third slot–the lowest slot is empty in a stock Spyder). In this photo, the ECU fuse is outlined in blue boxes on the cover diagram and the fuse box itself. In the rear right corner of the box, there is a pair of plastic fuse pullers (they look like plastic tweezers) designed to safely remove the fuses (yellow arrow).
Remove the fuse pullers, squeeze the top together to separate the forks, and lower the forks over the fuse. Relax your grip on the top, and let the fuse pullers grasp the fuse. They will click into place.
Pull up gently on the fuse pullers (but don’t squeeze the top together, or they will let go of the fuse) to remove the ECU fuse.
Here is a view of the fuse box from the driver’s side of the car, with the ECU fuse removed.
Put it in a safe place.
Leave the fuse out for at least 20 minutes for the “reset” procedure.
To reinsert the fuse, use the fuse pullers to gently reinsert it into its proper receptacle. NOTE: the numbers on the top of the fuse will be upside down to you when inserted correctly (look at all of the fuses–the numbers face opposite your direction). Make sure you put it back in the same direction you removed it. It will click into place.
Release the fuse pullers’ grip on the fuse by pinching the top together and pulling upward. Put the fuse pullers back in their place.
Replace the cover by turning it back around (so the diagram is now upside down to you), hook the two catches on the rear end on the ‘hinges,’ and push down on the front of the cover until it clicks into place.
OPTION 2: Removing the NEGATIVE battery terminal clamp.
**NOTE: this will result in the loss of your radio presets and clock setting.
The battery is on the driver’s side of the engine bay. Here’s a hint–the positive battery terminal is the one with the red cover with the big PLUS sign on it.
Using a 10mm wrench, loosen (but do not remove) the nut on the negative terminal clamp.
When the clamp is sufficiently loose, grasp both sides of the clamp. Wiggle it back and forth and pull up gently, and it will come off the terminal.
To protect the terminal clamp while you work on other things (like the MAF sensor cleaning), you can wrap it in a cloth.
Leave the terminal disconnected for 20 minutes. To reconnect, simply place the terminal clamp back over the battery terminal and gently push it downward until it is firmly seated on the terminal. Using the 10 mm wrench, tighten the nut so the terminal clamp is firmly secured. If you have an SMT, you may hear the accumulator pump start up when you reconnect the terminal–it can be startling, so just be prepared.
So, now that THAT’S done, let’s move on to the nitty gritty. You can clean the MAF while the ECU fuse or battery terminal clamp is disconnected, to make the most efficient use of your time. See the separate page for cleaning the MAF.
Disclaimer: Altering or removing any part of a manufacturer’s installed emissions system is against Federal Emissions Laws in the United States. Those members who choose to do this agree they are doing it of their own violation, will not hold Spyderchat.com liable, and agree to use their vehicle for “off-road use only”. – Don In my line of work, it pays to be meticulous and only the paranoid survive. After reading the threads out there, I realized that my ’01 was at risk for an engine failure due to the pre-cat placement in the header. I could hope for the best, hope it failed under warranty, or eliminate the problem. I elected to gut the pre-cats.
In addition to his list of needed items, I found it helpful to have:
A torque wrench rated from 20-150 ft-lbs
A full assortment of ratchets, various 10, 12 and 14mm spanners
Craftsman 10, 12, and 14mm sockets both shallow and deep
An air compressor
A power drill
Box of sandwich bags, masking tape, and a pen
Tube of anti-seize bolt treatment
Can of WD-40
Can of Boeshield T-9
Can of matte black spray paint
Can of bolt loosener
A dozen shop rags
A roll of shop cloths
Shop light
A notebook
Bandages
Scotch, aspirin, Ibuprofin
I wrote down everything I did, in order. Each part that came off (bolt, nut, O2 sensor, etc.) went into a labeled baggie. Special notes were made if one bolt was longer than another, etc. Each removed item was stored with its hardware, and labeled.
Once the main heatshield was off, I painted it matte black. Since your car is going to be off the road a while, why not perform this upgrade? You’ll have plenty of time to apply the dozen or so coats necessary.
Eventually, you’ll get the header off. Expect major trouble with the three 14mm pre-cat to main cat bolts. The nuts are lock-nuts and will resist removal. The gasket set ran me $56 (including a set of three 14mm studs and locknuts). I needed a propane torch to heat one of them and I needed a garage to remove one broken stud.
Sooner or later, you’ll have the target isolated. At this point, I have 21.5K miles on the odometer. Oil consumption is approx. 1/2 quart per 3,000 miles. Visual inspection of the O2 sensor ports indicates no precat damage. Now’s the time to do it.
Still OK from the bottom – and the top looks the same. This is what I was hoping to find. Note that new studs and nuts have been installed. MrT did that for me for free, once I bought the parts. Otherwise, you’ll probably need an allen driver and a 14mm thread tap.
It took about 20 to 30 minutes to clear each chamber. Once you have a good bite on the polystyrene housing, they come out quick. A drill with a large-bore bit helped, but a long-shaft screwdriver and hammer were enough. I wore a mask, goggles, and gloves for most of the procedure – the material is considerably hazardous and I’d avoid contact with it. The header-to-manifold gasket has two indentations on the upper corners. These should be turned toward the front of the car.
If anyone needs this stuff, I’ve got a boxful. Although getting to this point may be time-consuming because of troubles and tool acquisition, consult your notes and reverse the procedure. Re-assembly only took about 4 hours. Here’s where labeled baggies and notes will pay off big time.
I found that it was best to attach all the nuts and bolts loosely, and then tighten them gradually. The upper heat shield didn’t want to sit right until I loosened up the mid-shield bolts, then the upper locked in. So just set the mid-shield bolts enough to grab, affix the upper shield, then lock down the mid-shield last. Put anti-seize on anything you think will be heated. Clean and wipe everything you have access to, including sways, rods, everything you can see. You won’t be down here again anytime soon, so make the most of the opportunity.
Didn’t throw the CEL on startup and went for a road test. Sound is far improved – just about on a par with my old ’71 MGB. Gurglier and poppier, and the lower-range sound is deeper and throatier. In the high revs, I’m hearing more of a “ripping” sound – and this mates perfectly with the TM duals. Volume isn’t increased but there’s more intimidation available. And now I can sleep easy. Total time: 1 week. Cost: approx. $250
Welcome back to the SE garage, where our mistakes become your after-dinner conversation.
Rear swaybar installation parts list:
1. Addco 7/8 swaybar
2. 2sRus High and Tight rear endlinks
3. Energy Suspension greaseable bushings (9.5158G)
Tools required:
1. Jack, stands
2. 14mm socket, 14mm combination wrench (x2)
3. Torque wrench
4. Dremel tool with metal grinding bit
5. Lithium grease
Procedure:
First, the good news. This is one of the easiest suspension mods to do. You only need a few tools. As with almost any mod, however, expect the unexpected as you go along.
Clear the decks for business by jacking up the rear end and pulling the wheels. If you have the engine splash guard in place, leave it there.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 718×514 and weights 96KB.
Grab a 14mm combination wrench and break the nuts holding on the stock endlink. The lower:
And the upper – and if your car is like mine, these come right off:
Leave the endlinks in place – they aren’t under load but they’ll help hold the bar as you go after the bushing brackets here with the 14mm socket:
As expected, the rear bar is ridiculously easy to remove. It’s almost insulting. Pull, a half-twist to clear the tailpipe, and out it comes. If you’re timing this job, you’d be at around the 30 min. mark by now. Here’s a parts comparison – note how the stock rear sway is a puny, little girlie swaybar, and appreciate the size and machismo of the High and Tights:
Speaking of the bushings, there’s a problem. The brackets are too wide and will not fit the holes in the underbody of the chassis. You could drill and tap a new hole (not recommended) or modify the bracket (recommended). Use the dremel tool:
You’ll grind the slots on the bracket inward toward the bracket saddle all the way up to the curve. Then the bolts will fit. Grease the bushings, grease the endlink ball pivots. Now, reverse all the above steps to install the Addco. (Make sure the curve in the bar points down.) It’d be nice to have a friend help but it’s simple enough solo. So easy, you’ll be laughing.
Note that you’ll need two 14mm combination wrenches to install the High and Tight endlinks. There’s a nut on the inside of the endlink you need to secure as you tighten the outer nut, which you can see in the comparison photo above.
Here’s the finished result:
In the above picture, follow the swaybar around to where it runs under the frame. There’s a slight indentation there made to accommodate the swaybar. The Addco is so large that it almost makes contact with the body. The ES bushings are large enough to prevent binding and contact, but on my car the clearance is really tight – maybe 1/32 of an inch. The bar rotates in place, but it doesn’t move up and down. So as long as you have clearance, you’re good to go. If you are getting contact, you’ll need spacers under the bushings, and maybe longer bolts.
If you’re clear, then affix the wheels, torque the lug nuts to 76 ft lbs and test the bar.
Driving impressions:
I already have the front Addco, which really planted the front – much more than a FSTB – so I was expecting good things from this mod. Just running the front bar, the back end breaks loose predictably and controllably. With the rear, you should have better cornering as you reduce the last of the body roll. On the other hand, I’ve got Che’s rear member braces back there already, so I wasn’t expecting any OMG! moments.
Backing out the driveway, I’ve got a berm at the end where the drive connects with the street. I felt the effect of the rear bar when the tires passed over this bump. Much more solid now. Heading out… Turn One. Nothing dramatic, but very nice. Turn Two. Ah, I see what it’s doing. The back feels tightened down like the front. Turn Three. Feels like the power of the car connects with the suspension immediately. Turn Four. Accelerating out of curves feels more authoritative.
On the way back, Turn Four is a sweeping right that I often use to test the back end, because I can break the tires loose an inch or two without drama. This time, I couldn’t do it. I didn’t go past 7/10 for the test drive, so I’ll need more time to discover the new limits of the back end – but they’re now beyond what they were. I recommend this mod very highly. PITA factor: One bottle of Stella Artois, and that only because of the bushing issue. Hat tip to lbridges for his advice with the procedure.
Editors note: You do not need a power bleeder however it is highly recommended you use one. If you do not have a power bleeder a second person is required to work the clutch pedal while you are under the car. Google is your friend if you are considering this method. 🙂
P0100 Mass or Volume Air flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Air flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Air flow Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air flow Circuit Intermittent
P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0119 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0120 Throttle Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input
P0124 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0147 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0151 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0162 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0163 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0164 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0165 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0166 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0167 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0173 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0175 System Too Rich (Bank 2)
P0176 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0177 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0178 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0179 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit High Input
P0180 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0181 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Performance
P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit low Input
P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0184 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0185 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0186 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0187 Fuel Temperature Sensor U Circuit Low Input
P0188 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0189 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0194 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P0196 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance
P0197 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Low
P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High
P0199 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P02XX Fuel and Air Metering
P0200 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 1
P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 2
P0203 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 3
P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 4
P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 5
P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 6
P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 7
P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 8
P0209 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 9
P0210 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 10
P0211 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 11
P0212 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 12
P0213 Cold Start Injector 1 Malfunction
P0214 Cold Start Injector 2 Malfunction
P0215 Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction
P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction
P0217 Engine Overtemp Condition
P0218 Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0219 Engine Over Speed Condition
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0221 Throttle/pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222 Throttle/pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0224 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent
P0225 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction
P0226 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input
P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input
P0229 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
P0233 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Intermittent
P0234 Engine Overboost Condition
P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0239 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0240 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0241 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Low
P0242 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit High
P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Malfunction
P0244 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range/Performance
P0245 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A low
P0246 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A High
P0247 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Malfunction
P0248 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Range/Performance
P0249 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Low
P0250 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B High
P0251 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Malfunction (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0252 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Range/Performance (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0253 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Low (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0254 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” High (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0255 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Intermittent (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0256 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Malfunction (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0257 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Range/Performance (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0258 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Low (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0259 Injection lump Fuel Metering Control “B” High (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0260 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Intermittent (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0261 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Low
P0262 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit High
P0263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0264 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0265 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit High
P0266 Cylinder 2 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0267 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0268 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit High
P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0270 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0271 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit High
P0272 Cylinder 4 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0273 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit Low
P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit High
P0275 Cylinder 5 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0276 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit Low
P0277 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit High
P0278 Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0279 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit Low
P0280 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit High
P0281 Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0282 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Low
P0283 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit High
P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0285 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit Low
P0286 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit High
P0287 Cylinder 9 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0288 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit Low
P0289 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit High
P0290 Cylinder 10 Contribution/balance Fault
P0291 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit Low
P0292 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit High
P0293 Cylinder 11 Contribution/balance Fault
P0294 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit Low
P0295 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit High
P0296 Cylinder 12 Contribution/Balance Fault
P03XX Ignition System or Misfire
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0309 Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
P0310 Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected
P0311 Cylinder 11 Misfire Detected
P0312 Cylinder 12 Misfire Detected
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Input Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Input Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0350 Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0359 Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0360 Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0361 Ignition Coil K Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0362 Ignition Coil L Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction
P0371 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Many Pulses
P0372 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Few Pulses
P0374 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A No Pulses
P0375 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Malfunction
P0376 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Many Pulses
P0377 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Few Pulses
P0378 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
P0379 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B No Pulses
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit “A” Malfunction
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P0382 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit “B” Malfunction
P0385 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0386 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0387 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P0388 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0389 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
P04XX Auxiliary Emission Controls
P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Plow Malfunction
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation flow Excessive Detected
P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit High
P0407 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit Low
P0408 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit High
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction
P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Open
P0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
P0415 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Malfunction
P0416 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Open
P0417 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Shorted
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay “A” circuit Malfunction
P0419 Secondary Air Injection System Relay “B” Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0421 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0423 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank l)
P0424 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0431 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0433 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0434 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System leak Detected (small leak)
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve circuit Malfunction
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Tank Detected (gross leak)
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0462 Fuel level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 Fuel level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 Fuel level Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0466 Purge flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0467 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0468 Purge flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P0469 Purge flow Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High
P0474 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance
P0477 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
P0479 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Intermittent
P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0481 Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0482 Cooling Fan 3 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction
P0484 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current
P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Malfunction
P05XX Vehicle Speed, Idle Control, and Auxiliary Inputs
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High
P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction
P0506 Idle Control System RPM lower Than Expected
P0507 Idle Control System RPM higher Than Expected
P0510 Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction
P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance
P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Low Voltage
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch High Voltage
P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0531 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0533 A/C Refrigerant pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0534 Air Conditioner Refrigerant Charge Loss
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0551 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0552 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0553 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0554 Power Steering Pressure sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0560 System Voltage Malfunction
P0561 System Voltage Unstable
P0562 System Voltage Low
P0563 System Voltage High
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal Malfunction
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal Malfunction
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal Malfunction
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal Malfunction
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal Malfunction
P0570 Cruise Control Accel Signal Malfunction
P0571 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low
P0573 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit High
P0574 through 10580 Reserved for Cruise Codes
P06XX Computer and Auxiliary Outputs
P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P0602 Control Module Programming Error
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0604 Internal Control Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error
P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error (Module Identification Defined by SAE J1979)
P0606 PCM Processor Fault
P0608 Control Module VSS Output “A” Malfunction
P0609 Control Module VSS Output “B” Malfunction
P0620 Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
P0621 Generator Lamp “L” Control Circuit Malfunction
P0622 Generator Field “F” Control Circuit Malfunction
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction
P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
P0655 Engine Hot Lamp Output Control Circuit Malfunction
P0656 Fuel Level Output Circuit Malfunction
P07XX Transmission
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical
P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High
P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0728 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
P0746 Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or Stuck Off
P0747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
P0749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent
P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0751 Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0754 Shift Solenoid A Intermittent
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0759 Shift Solenoid B Intermittent
P0760 Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
P0761 Shift Solenoid C Performance or Stuck Off
P0762 Shift Solenoid C Stuck On
P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical
P0764 Shift Solenoid C Intermittent
P0765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction
P0766 Shift Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off
P0767 Shift Solenoid D Stuck On
P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P0769 Shift Solenoid D Intermittent
P0770 Shift Solenoid E Malfunction
P0771 Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
P0772 Shift Solenoid E Stuck On
P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical
P0774 Shift Solenoid E Intermittent
P0780 Shift Malfunction
P0781 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0782 2-3 Shift Malfunction
P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction
P0784 4-5 Shift Malfunction
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P0786 Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance
P0787 Shift/Timing Solenoid low
P0788 Shift/Timing Solenoid High
P0789 Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent
P0790 Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction
P08XX Transmission
P080l Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
P0804 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction
While the car is on the ground loosen the 30mm bolt holding the axle shaft. Make sure you bend up the locking tab on the nut I used a hole punch then a screw driver.
[/QUOTE]
