P02XX Fuel and Air Metering

P0200 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 1
P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 2
P0203 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 3
P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 4
P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 5
P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 6
P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 7
P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 8
P0209 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 9
P0210 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 10
P0211 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 11
P0212 Injector Circuit Malfunction – Cylinder 12
P0213 Cold Start Injector 1 Malfunction
P0214 Cold Start Injector 2 Malfunction
P0215 Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction
P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction
P0217 Engine Overtemp Condition
P0218 Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0219 Engine Over Speed Condition
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0221 Throttle/pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222 Throttle/pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0224 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent
P0225 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction
P0226 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input
P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input
P0229 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
P0233 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Intermittent
P0234 Engine Overboost Condition
P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0239 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0240 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0241 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Low
P0242 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit High
P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Malfunction
P0244 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range/Performance
P0245 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A low
P0246 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A High
P0247 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Malfunction
P0248 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Range/Performance
P0249 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Low
P0250 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B High
P0251 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Malfunction (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0252 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Range/Performance (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0253 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Low (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0254 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” High (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0255 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “A” Intermittent (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0256 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Malfunction (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0257 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Range/Performance (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0258 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Low (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0259 Injection lump Fuel Metering Control “B” High (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0260 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control “B” Intermittent (Cam/Rotor/Injector)
P0261 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Low
P0262 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit High
P0263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0264 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0265 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit High
P0266 Cylinder 2 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0267 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0268 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit High
P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0270 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0271 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit High
P0272 Cylinder 4 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0273 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit Low
P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit High
P0275 Cylinder 5 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0276 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit Low
P0277 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit High
P0278 Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0279 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit Low
P0280 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit High
P0281 Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0282 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Low
P0283 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit High
P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0285 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit Low
P0286 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit High
P0287 Cylinder 9 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0288 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit Low
P0289 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit High
P0290 Cylinder 10 Contribution/balance Fault
P0291 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit Low
P0292 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit High
P0293 Cylinder 11 Contribution/balance Fault
P0294 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit Low
P0295 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit High
P0296 Cylinder 12 Contribution/Balance Fault

P03XX Ignition System or Misfire

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0309 Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
P0310 Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected
P0311 Cylinder 11 Misfire Detected
P0312 Cylinder 12 Misfire Detected
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Input Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Input Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0350 Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0359 Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0360 Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0361 Ignition Coil K Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0362 Ignition Coil L Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction
P0371 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Many Pulses
P0372 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Few Pulses
P0374 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A No Pulses
P0375 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Malfunction
P0376 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Many Pulses
P0377 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Few Pulses
P0378 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
P0379 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B No Pulses
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit “A” Malfunction
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P0382 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit “B” Malfunction
P0385 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0386 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0387 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P0388 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0389 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Intermittent

P04XX Auxiliary Emission Controls

P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Plow Malfunction
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation flow Excessive Detected
P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit High
P0407 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit Low
P0408 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit High
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction
P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Open
P0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
P0415 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Malfunction
P0416 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Open
P0417 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Shorted
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay “A” circuit Malfunction
P0419 Secondary Air Injection System Relay “B” Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0421 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0423 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank l)
P0424 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0431 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0433 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0434 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System leak Detected (small leak)
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve circuit Malfunction
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Tank Detected (gross leak)
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0462 Fuel level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 Fuel level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 Fuel level Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0466 Purge flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0467 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0468 Purge flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P0469 Purge flow Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High
P0474 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance
P0477 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
P0479 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Intermittent
P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0481 Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0482 Cooling Fan 3 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction
P0484 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current
P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Malfunction

P05XX Vehicle Speed, Idle Control, and Auxiliary Inputs

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High
P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction
P0506 Idle Control System RPM lower Than Expected
P0507 Idle Control System RPM higher Than Expected
P0510 Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction
P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance
P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Low Voltage
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch High Voltage
P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0531 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0533 A/C Refrigerant pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0534 Air Conditioner Refrigerant Charge Loss
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0551 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0552 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0553 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0554 Power Steering Pressure sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0560 System Voltage Malfunction
P0561 System Voltage Unstable
P0562 System Voltage Low
P0563 System Voltage High
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal Malfunction
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal Malfunction
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal Malfunction
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal Malfunction
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal Malfunction
P0570 Cruise Control Accel Signal Malfunction
P0571 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low
P0573 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit High
P0574 through 10580 Reserved for Cruise Codes

P06XX Computer and Auxiliary Outputs

P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P0602 Control Module Programming Error
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0604 Internal Control Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error
P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error (Module Identification Defined by SAE J1979)
P0606 PCM Processor Fault
P0608 Control Module VSS Output “A” Malfunction
P0609 Control Module VSS Output “B” Malfunction
P0620 Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
P0621 Generator Lamp “L” Control Circuit Malfunction
P0622 Generator Field “F” Control Circuit Malfunction
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction
P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
P0655 Engine Hot Lamp Output Control Circuit Malfunction
P0656 Fuel Level Output Circuit Malfunction

P07XX Transmission

P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical
P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High
P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0728 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
P0746 Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or Stuck Off
P0747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
P0749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent
P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0751 Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0754 Shift Solenoid A Intermittent
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0759 Shift Solenoid B Intermittent
P0760 Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
P0761 Shift Solenoid C Performance or Stuck Off
P0762 Shift Solenoid C Stuck On
P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical
P0764 Shift Solenoid C Intermittent
P0765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction
P0766 Shift Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off
P0767 Shift Solenoid D Stuck On
P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P0769 Shift Solenoid D Intermittent
P0770 Shift Solenoid E Malfunction
P0771 Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
P0772 Shift Solenoid E Stuck On
P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical
P0774 Shift Solenoid E Intermittent
P0780 Shift Malfunction
P0781 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0782 2-3 Shift Malfunction
P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction
P0784 4-5 Shift Malfunction
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P0786 Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance
P0787 Shift/Timing Solenoid low
P0788 Shift/Timing Solenoid High
P0789 Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent
P0790 Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction

P08XX Transmission

P080l Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
P0804 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction

00-05 Celica GT & MR2 Spyder – 5 speed – C56
1- 3.17
2- 1.90
3- 1.39
4- 1.03
5- 0.82
R- 3.25
Final Drive- 4.312

Celica GTS & Lotus Elise 2ZZ – C60
1- 3.166
2- 2.050
3- 1.481
4- 1.166
5- 0.916
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

MR2 Spyder 6 Speed Sequential 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.392
4- 1.031
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

07 Corolla 6-Speed *with Puller Reverse*- C66
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

99+ Corolla (NOT FX) – 5 speed – C59
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.885
5- 0.725
Final Drive- 3.914

Euro Spec Transmissions

00-02 MR2 Spyder 5-Speed 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.914

03+ MR2 Spyder 6-Speed 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.914

2003 Avensis 1ZZ-FE – C250
1- 3.545
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 1.031
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.941

2003 Avensis 3ZZ-FE – C50
1- 3.545
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.312

2003 Celica 1ZZ-FE- C60-2
1 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 1.031
5- 0.864
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.312

99+ Corolla (NOT FX) – 5 speed – C59
1- 3.166
2- 2.050
3- 1.481
4- 1.166
5- 0.916
6- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

1992-1996: 1MZ-FE
Compatible, but not recommended.
Early 90′s 3vz is proven to work also*

Source Cars:
Avalon
Solara
Lexus ES300
Camry

What to Buy / Get with Engine:
“remember to get a 97+ manual motor w/ ecu or you will have drama”

– Engine Long Block -dugh
– Transmission (97+ recommended, not required for Turbo owners)
– AC Compressor
–Alternator*
– AC Lines to compressor (cut)
– Alternator
– Engine Mounts
– Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there)
– ECU
– ECU Harness (uncut)
– Dash Plugs that go to ECU
– Tachometer from 97+ 1MZ-FE Car (only if you started with a NA tach
– Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)*optional
– 94+ V6 Intermediate Shaft (with 6 bolts on CV joint) *must be modified
Credits -derek2000GT

Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read
There aren’t really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don’t worry about upsetting your balance.

Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT)

There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you’d like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003)

Engine Mounts: General
Someone should definitely post some blueprints here.

“In total there are 5 possible mounts–3 for the tranny and 2 for the engine (anterior and posterior). The passenger side 3S-GTE/5S-FE engine mount must be abandoned if you anticipate putting a supercharger on (and who doesn’t).” -chall

I have built two motor mounts that use the pass side mount. Complete fabrication of all mounts is not necessary but recommended if you want a mount to absorb any engine noise.

Fuel Return: Adapting Properly
The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accomodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from a 3VZ-FE which is a direct fit.

3VZ-FE Option
“This is old news to Camry guys but a 3VZ-FE return fuel rail system will bolt right on to 1MZ-FE. this set up gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. …if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in.

…if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail i would highly reccommend the 3VZ-FE rail install…save time and will be 100% OEM.” -derek2000GT

Tapping the Rail Option
“The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system.” -chall

I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars.

Tachometer: Get it Working
“You will need to buy a tach from a 97+ 1MZ-FE equipped car. (AVALON, CAMRY, SOLARA, SEINNA, ES300) The tachs are the same on all models and will bolt right into cluster w/ no mods at all.” -derek2000GT

“It is almost scary how plug and play most Toyota parts are, at least in this swap. The tach looks virtually identical to the stock MR2 tach (the mechanical part that attaches to the back of the face). …we found that the tach slips right in and, thud, no tach adaptor needed.” -chall

“You will need the tach overlay for an NA MKII MR2. It has a 180 deg sweep with a 6300 redline. As oppesed to a 180 deg sweep 7000 redline/ 7250 revlimit Turbo gauge. Without it your tach will be completely inaccurate. It fits and has the same font/ look as other MR2 gauges.” -Luke

I have also used a 1k ohm resistor and diode hooked to two of the negative sides of the coils and used the stock tach. If I’ve not updated the link, I will shortly.

BUT:
“The block-transmission bolt patterns on the 5S-FE, 3S-GTE, and the 1MZ-FE are the same. Any transmission that works with one engine should work with any of them.” -chall
(This includes manual transmissions)

Some Info About VVT-I
VVT-I Engines availble only in automatic, until 2003. (Manual Tranny bolts on though)
Wiring / ECU issues will need to be addressed, due to automatic transmission errors
TRD is developing piggyback VVT-I ECU, available 2003

A piggyback VVT-I controller is neccessary to properly run. (Wolf EMS: http://www.wolfems.com.au) -derek2000GT

Driveshafts: Adaption and Conversion
“The V6 intermediate shaft (A) bolt right to MR2 CV joint on passenger side. ….Use a V6 intermediate shaft that has 6 bolts on CV joint which is same a MR2 so you can bolt to outer MR2 axle” -derek2000GT

The 93+ Turbo drivers side driveshafts should fit properly, without any adjustments.

*EDIT*

Please see the FAQ on this, you will have to machine a new C-clip for the driveshaft to work. No one has successfully found a shaft that will correctly fit the V6 mount and MR2 tranny. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. (I want specific model and year info along with a quick photo if possible)

Radiator hoses I used
(1)71704 Hose to connect to the factory pipe in the engine bay, left side.
(2) 80413 Heater hoses 90 degree bend on the end.

These hoses work real well. I had to cut them to fit,but have the correct bends and are reasonably priced.

The right side hose will be a little harder, but consists of cutting the pipe under the car, rotating the bend roughly 90 degrees, and routing the hose up the firewall just on the outside of the Belt. I will post pics of this when I’m finished later this week.

Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified, see SCC’s how to install a V6 for the most simple solution.

**Pete94t**

IF you don’t want cruise, you can re-route the main line under the car to the driver’s side and it’s the perfect length to the throttle body, with no junction boxes the pedal feel is better.

**Edit**

This works well, I have this done on my Yellow 91.

**Chall**
Technically speaking, the solara/camry transmission is the E351, not the E153, and I think this denotes the difference in drive gear ratios and final drive. Also, the synchros are much better than in the ’91-’93 turbo transmission. If you have the turbo transmission it will work, but you run out of first gear more quickly. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. this lets you get rid of the speedo cable, which removes one of the major hassles of taking the MR2 guage cluster out. Of course, you will need the linkage from an MR2 transmission and also need to drill a hole to use this linkage on the solara tranny–easy to do.

The half shafts are turbo on the driver’s side, and solara on the passenger side only because there is a 1/8″ or 3mm*** difference in the carrier bearing position. Turbo shafts will fit nicely in the solara transmission. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. It is impossible to combine the two shafts to make one as the type of CV joint on the solara shaft is enclosed and the diameter of the shaft in the CV joint is smaller.

Personally, I think that the passenger side mount for the engine should be abandoned altogether because you cannont add the supercharger and you will definitely want to add the supercharger. Front and rear engine mounts are not hard to fabricate and I have autocad diagrams of one design, but not the only design by any means.

–I have lowered my compression ratio by using 8.5:1 JE pistons and Eagle 22R rods but the rods take machining to thin them for the 1MZ (by .135 per side) and they are about .012 different in their C-C. But you can get them on Ebay and they are an initial $350 investment plus whatever it costs in your area to machine them. When and if you order pistons, let them know so that you can get pistons with the piston pin positon correct.

–I would use the 1MZ alternator. What Luke and I did was to attach the wires to the alternator using simple electrical connections and pouring epoxy around the connections so that now we have an alternator that has the long wires attached.

Claire

*** Edit by Brad, Original was 1cm

**Chall**
If I am understanding correctly, you are asking whether the turbo transmission without LSD uses the same axles as the LSD E153 and the Solara 351. I put a Toyota MR2 LSD into a Camry 5 speed (year 2000) and it uses the MR2 axles that I had machined to move the carrier bearing retainer groove. Of course, the differential defines which axles are used in these transaxles, so using an MR2 LSD (which fits exactly) guarantees that the turbo axles will work.

I don’t have succesful experience with mixing axles. I tried it but perhaps I used a too new axle to try to change the intermediate shaft, as the newer axles from the Solara/Camry are entirely different from the ’90/’95 US MR2 axles. It cost me $50 to have the turbo axle machined, and I thing that was kind of a rip-off.

Here is what I think about the swap:

–Not much needs to be done to the 1MZ-FE itself unless you are going to more than 4 PSI of boost. Derek has found that the return fuel system from other engines works well, or you can simply drill and tap both ends of the fuel rail and make a U-shape out of it to make a return system.

–You can use the stock Solara/Camry ECU, auto or manual, with the wiring diagrams that Luke worked out.

–I would abandon the passenger mount and make front and rear engine mounts for the 1MZ-FE so that you can supercharge later.

–I would abandon the turbo/NA water system after the main pipes beneath the gas tank, and connect more directly with a couple of pipe bends.

–I would get rid of the brake booster line across the firewall.

–I would move the oil filter with a remote kit.

–I would have the passenger axle machined.

–If you want A/C, have the MR2 lines tig welded to the 1MZ-FE lines. There may be much better solutions; I don’t know.

–You can direct connect the cruise control to the throttle and the throttle body very simply, but you have to move the throttle cable to the drivers’ side.

–I prefer the ratios of the Camry/Solara transmission E351 over those of the MR2 E153.

Overall, this is a simple process and should not take long if you prepare for it.

**SBCelicaGT**

1MZFE engine debuted in 1992. in 1997 it was updated with among other small changes, a returnless fuel system. later on it had VVTi as an option. all 3 generations of engine are aluminum. the 92-96 return fuel rails will bolt to the gen2 engines. or you can make your own returnless fuel system and it doesnt require any drilling or tapping.

axles: all the solara/avalon/sienna/ etc. axles I have seen arent rebuildable. I.E. they dont have the bolts in the middle to attach the inner and outer sections.

the mr2 turbo inner axles work just fine with the Solara tranny. the only mod you need to do is to slot the carrier bearing mount ever so slightly as it will be off by a few millimeters. For the celicas, you can then bolt outer alltrac axles to the inner turbo axles. for you mr2 guys, you can just use the whole turbo axles.

ecu: auto tranny ecu will work but you will have ECU codes till you find a way to fool the ECU into thinking there is an A/T in your engine bay by way of wiring resistors to the ends of the solonoid plug. Easy fix.

Eagle rods for the 22R will work. You will need to do the following:

Put the back of the car on stands. You will absolutely need a trolley jack later in the procedure, so don’t even dream about trying this with only the emergency jack. At some points, when you’re hauling and shoving at things down there, you’ll be very glad the vehicle is secure.

Remove the rear and center shields (aka: diapers). Note which fasteners are screws and which ones are poppets, as they are just as much fun to refit as they are to remove.

Here’s the rear mount. Easy to get to, easy to remove. Before you unbolt it from the frame, pad your trolley jack saddle and place it beneath the bell housing. You don’t want to lift the motor, you just want to fully take its weight off the mounts.

And here’s the front mount. You’ll have just barely enough room to get to it. Keep your tools at arm’s reach. Unlike the rear mount, with its four bracket bolts, the front mount only has three. That’s the good news. The bad news is that only the lower center is easy to get to. The others require patience and good tools. I’ve circled all three. The one you can’t see is the one that will test you.

I recommend doing the mounts one at a time. You could do them both at once, but if you slip out of alignment, you’ll need friends to help horse the motor back into position. So first I removed the rear mount, and cleaned it thoroughly. That’s the editor way.

Here’s the rear inserts snapping into place. I lubricated the inner part with WD-40, to aid in fitment and hopefully give myself a bit of relief as the mounts resettle. WD-40 will disipate eventually, so I thought this a wise move.

Have your assistant (no photos, I was under the car!) give the jack small inputs until the center holes line up, then shoot the center bolt home. Torque the bracket bolts to 38 ft/lbs, torque the center bolt to 66 ft/lbs.

Here’s the troublesome bolt on the front mount. It actually goes in the other way, but I thought you’d like to see the position. Reinstall the mount, double-check your work, and wipe down and clean and lubricate all the parts you have access to down here. This is a great opportunity since the shields are off and you’re down here anyway. As always, I was pleased to note the general cleanliness and good operating condition of my Spyder.

Driving impressions: No vibration on startup. A good sign. I began to experence some faint vibration or buzzing when launching out of first, and in engaging second gear on rolling starts. It could be worse, but I’m pretty well braced up already with Corky’s and Che’s. A rear STB would probably help. Once into third and beyond there are no vibration effects. In first and second, there’s now no lag on throttle – the accelerator pedal instantly pushes the car forward. Nothing extreme here, but a general sense of things being tightened up and more solid-state, more fly-by-wire. I suspect my 0-60 time is slightly improved. I may add more comments later after the mounts break in fully, a period I expect to take between four to eight weeks, depending on much I get to run the car.

PITA factor: Minimal, maybe two brewskies. Aligning the front mount bracket bolts took a long time, as it was difficult to force the polyurethane blocks through the bracket. I used a screwdriver through the center bolt track to horse the mount up and down, side to side, until the bolts finally seated.

Startup video after rebuild (right click and save-as).
Engine running video after rebuild (right click and save-as).

Here are the four pistons removed:

• Engine Removal Pictures

After the engine was removed from the car, the head was then removed from the engine.

• Removed Head Pictures

The block was then stripped of the accesories.

• Stripping the Block

The following machine work was done to the block:

• Bore cylinders 0.5mm over the stock bore.
• Clean and hone the block.
• Install 8.5 compression ratio forged Ross pistons, and Ross racing rings.
• Shot-pean the stock rods.
• Balance the rotating assembly.
• Install Clevite crankshaft bearings.

The block was then assembled and painted with high temp paint.

• Assembling the Block

The head was sent to Alabama cylinder head where it was cleaned, the valves were re-seated, and it was pressure tested.  After installing the camshafts, the valve clearance was set.

• Installing the Head

Here are some pictures of the engine before it was installed back into the car:

• Engine about to be Installed

The engine was then installed from the bottom.

• Installing the Engine

The break in procedure could be done as follows:

1. Right before starting for the first time, put a cap-full of oil into each spark plug well.
2. Install and torque the spark plugs.
3. Fill the crankcase with non-synthetic oil.
4. Start the engine, and immediately hold the RPMs around 2000RPM for 1 to 2 minutes.
5. Set the ignition timing.
6. Bleed the coolant.
7. Drive the car gently until hot.
8. Use 50% throttle in 4th gear between 3000 and 4000RPM, then snap the throttle shut.  Use the lowest boost possible.
9. Repeat 10 times, then use 60% throttle, and up to 80% throttle – repeating each different throttle position multiple times.  This should help seat the rings.
10. Drive the car at under 4500RPM for about 200 miles at varying loads and RPMs, then change the oil.
11. Drive as above until 500 miles.
12. Change the oil again, and crank up the boost

I used Grant’s procedure as outlined here:
http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/precat-removal/

In addition to his list of needed items, I found it helpful to have:

A torque wrench rated from 20-150 ft-lbs
A full assortment of ratchets, various 10, 12 and 14mm spanners
Craftsman 10, 12, and 14mm sockets both shallow and deep
An air compressor
A power drill
Box of sandwich bags, masking tape, and a pen
Tube of anti-seize bolt treatment
Can of WD-40
Can of Boeshield T-9
Can of matte black spray paint
Can of bolt loosener
A dozen shop rags
A roll of shop cloths
Shop light
A notebook
Bandages
Scotch, aspirin, Ibuprofin

I wrote down everything I did, in order. Each part that came off (bolt, nut, O2 sensor, etc.) went into a labeled baggie. Special notes were made if one bolt was longer than another, etc. Each removed item was stored with its hardware, and labeled.

Once the main heatshield was off, I painted it matte black. Since your car is going to be off the road a while, why not perform this upgrade? You’ll have plenty of time to apply the dozen or so coats necessary.

Eventually, you’ll get the header off. Expect major trouble with the three 14mm pre-cat to main cat bolts. The nuts are lock-nuts and will resist removal. The gasket set ran me $56 (including a set of three 14mm studs and locknuts). I needed a propane torch to heat one of them and I needed a garage to remove one broken stud.

Sooner or later, you’ll have the target isolated. At this point, I have 21.5K miles on the odometer. Oil consumption is approx. 1/2 quart per 3,000 miles. Visual inspection of the O2 sensor ports indicates no precat damage. Now’s the time to do it.

Still OK from the bottom – and the top looks the same. This is what I was hoping to find. Note that new studs and nuts have been installed. MrT did that for me for free, once I bought the parts. Otherwise, you’ll probably need an allen driver and a 14mm thread tap.

It took about 20 to 30 minutes to clear each chamber. Once you have a good bite on the polystyrene housing, they come out quick. A drill with a large-bore bit helped, but a long-shaft screwdriver and hammer were enough. I wore a mask, goggles, and gloves for most of the procedure – the material is considerably hazardous and I’d avoid contact with it. The header-to-manifold gasket has two indentations on the upper corners. These should be turned toward the front of the car.

If anyone needs this stuff, I’ve got a boxful. Although getting to this point may be time-consuming because of troubles and tool acquisition, consult your notes and reverse the procedure. Re-assembly only took about 4 hours. Here’s where labeled baggies and notes will pay off big time.

I found that it was best to attach all the nuts and bolts loosely, and then tighten them gradually. The upper heat shield didn’t want to sit right until I loosened up the mid-shield bolts, then the upper locked in. So just set the mid-shield bolts enough to grab, affix the upper shield, then lock down the mid-shield last. Put anti-seize on anything you think will be heated. Clean and wipe everything you have access to, including sways, rods, everything you can see. You won’t be down here again anytime soon, so make the most of the opportunity.

Didn’t throw the CEL on startup and went for a road test. Sound is far improved – just about on a par with my old ’71 MGB. Gurglier and poppier, and the lower-range sound is deeper and throatier. In the high revs, I’m hearing more of a “ripping” sound – and this mates perfectly with the TM duals. Volume isn’t increased but there’s more intimidation available. And now I can sleep easy. Total time: 1 week. Cost: approx. $250

The goal of the project was to design and build an affordable ignition upgrade for the MR2 Turbo (3S-GTE).  The original plan was to build my own ignition circuits using the Motorola MC3334P chip, and four ignition coils (one for each spark plug).  The MC3334P chip has current limiting capability, and the ability to automatically adjust dwell time.  I did get the car to run with four coils, but the igniter circuit kept overheating, and I, in general, had problems with it.  The biggest challenge to the project was designing the digital logic to take the place of the stock distributor (ie a spark plug selection circuit).
The stock Toyota ECU (as it is on many Toyota’s) uses a position sensor in the distributor (G1 and G2) to determine the engine position.  It then adjusts the timing based on various engine parameters and sends a signal (5 volt pulse waveform) called IGT to the stock igniter.  The signal goes high to charge the coil, and then low to fire the coil.  The stock igniter returns a feedback signal to the ECU (called IGF) to tell the ECU that it actually did fire.  It is the IGT signal that needs to be modified and then sent to different igniters/coils.
The first iteration of the circuit used a Flip Flop, Inverter, a comparator ( for signal conditioning of IGT, and G1), and a 3 to 8 line decoder (inverting).  This circuit did work, and the car ran with four coils, but there was some problems (as stated earlier) with the four igniters.  Since the charge time could be so long for four coils, it was decided to try to build a system using a ‘wastespark’ design with twin tower coils.  GM uses this type of coil, as well as electromotive, and numerous other manufactures including the 1986-88 RX-7.  These coils (RX-7 coils) in particular are very powerful coils (ie have a low primary resistance).  The downside to these coils is that, new, they cost around $250.00.  With igniter they cost around $350.00.  Fortunately I found a couple at a junk yard with igniters for $70.00 (for two!).  It seems very likely that the GM coils/igniters could also have been used.  I’ve been told that the GM coils can be had for around $30.00 – new.  The digital logic was then modified to fire just two coils instead of four.  Because of the simplified operation, the G1 signal was thought not to be needed to make the circuit work.  It would, however, probably be best to design a circuit that would use G1; however no problems have been found with the current setup.  (new) – There is a slight problem – every once in a while during start up the circuit does not ‘sync up’ with the firing order and the ignition has to be turned off and restarted.  This happens infrequently, and is easily reminded by just trying again.
Here is a diagram (bad drawing sorry) of the setup:

The two coils (+12) are hooked to the stock wiring for the ignition.  There is a 40 amp (if memory served) fuse for this circuit, which is plenty.  The ground for each coil was wired to two separate ground locations using 12 gauge wire.  The wiring from the selection circuit to the igniter should be shielded, but does not have to be very think – 18
gauge wire is plenty.  Up until now, I was taking the output of the stock coil (which would normally go to the distributor) and feeding it into a 4.7k resistor.  This kept the IGF signal happy (and hence the ECU) as well as the tachometer.  However charging the additional coil didn’t really make sense.  So the MSD tach adapter (PN8910 HEI) was purchased from Summit Racing for about $26.00. This (basically coil) attaches to where the stock coil originally connected.  The nice thing about this setup, is that switching back to the stock ignition is relatively easy (if nice connectors are used).  I used bullet connectors from Radio Shack.
What about charge time?
The charge time for each coil is basically doubled from what it would have normally been with the stock ignitor/coil.  The nice thing about this is that even at 7200RPM the coils should give a nice strong spark (each only ‘sees’ 3600RPM).  The bad thing is that it is somewhat wasteful as the coils do not need to be charged that long.  I have
monitored coil temperature, and even after a long drive (45 minutes) they are cool to the touch.
Results
I do not have any concrete results yet.  However, my 1991 MR2 turbo did have a hesitation problem on cold starts on cold mornings.  This is all but gone with the new ignition!  Gas mileage improved from 18.00 to 18.7 (first try) – OK so that’s not that big a deal.  I have new plugs which I plan on running at a gap of 0.40 to see what happens.  There does seem to be more high end punch – but that’s seat of the pants speculation.  Since there are no spark plug wires attached to the distributor, there will never be a need to change the cap&rotor.  The losses (from the spark jumping from the rotor to cap) are eliminated since it is now done electronically.
How do I build one
I’ve spent a long time designing this ignition – starting the engine, looking at signals – over and over etc..  The selection circuit is not built with a micrcontroller – it is all ‘in hardware’, and is wire wrapped for durability.  The original plan was to make an ignition kit that could be purchased – but some more development needs to be done for that can happen.
If you are interested in building a setup like this for your Toyota – I’ll be happy to help.
Just send me an email!

Old picture of ignition coils in car

Update 12/09/2002

Much work has been done on the ignition project since last reported.  For one, G1 and G2 both need to be used to keep the circuit in sync.  The big problem is that the G signals can occur before the signal to fire (IGT) or after the signal to fire.  This causes havoc!  Signal conditioning with comparators proved hazards, as changes in the outside temperature caused the resistances to change, which caused the signal conditioning to no longer work.  Thankfully national semiconductor has a nice chip, the LM1815, which conditions these signals (G1 and G2) nicely.  I still had the problem, with the G1 and G2 signals occurring before or after the signal to fire the coil.  This signal (G1 OR G2) was used to reset the primary flip flop (the one that sends the signal the the coils (Coil 1 and Coil 2) to fire (ie the modified IGT signals).
What Chris Conlon came up with (thanks Chris!) was to delay the G signals using a series of flip flop circuits and the N1 signal to the ECU.  N1 is yet another signal to the ECU from the distributor.  It is a many toothed gear so the ECU gets numerous pulses for each revolution of the distributor.   This signal was also conditioned with the LM1815 chip from national semiconductor. Using this signal and Chris’s flip flop delay circuit, I delayed the (G1 OR G2) reset signal two N1 signals.  So, (G1 OR G2) would occur and the circuit would wait to see two N1 signals before sending the reset signal to the primary flip flop.  This worked and the car ran, but occasionally would miss, particularly under rapid throttle changes.  I’m not sure why this current circuit is not working out as planned.  I’ll try to update the information here more with a complete circuit diagram soon.

An overview video of the water injection setup is here (WMV format 8MB) – it’s a little nerdy – but all in good fun!
Video of each of the nozzles spraying inside the throttle body is here (WMV format 4.7MB – MPG format 19.6MB) and another of both spraying is here (WMV format 1.5MB – MPG format 6MPG).  In the first video one can here the Shurflow pump turn on for a few seconds to re-pressurize the accumulator at two points during the video.

Update (12/16/2002) – new Nozzle size.

I’ve switched the two mcmaster car nozzles from a 3GPH and 5GPH, to a 5GPH and 10GPH for a total 15GPH or 946cc/min.  This is not the actual flow, however, since I’m running almost 20psi of boost, and the water pressure fluctuates between 70 and 100psi.  So at 70psi of water pressure, and 20psi of boost, the actual pressure is 50psi.  The shurflow pump is adjustable, and I want to try to change it so that it will turn off at 100psi like it already does, but come back on at around 85-90psi.
Using the formula   where F represents flow and P represents pressure, one can calculate the flow difference.  In this case the nozzles should flow 15GPH at 100psi, so at 50psi, the actual flow is 10.6GPH or 668.75cc/min.  At 80psi the actual flow is13.4GPH or 845cc/min.  So, with the current setup the water flow can range from 30.4% of fuel flow to 38.4% fuel flow, assuming the 550cc/min injectors are static open.
The 3SGTE runs great with this setup – nice and smooth.  The previous day (about 40degrees outside) I was doing some tests and the ECU went into the bad gas mode (see TVIS document).  So, I thought it would be a good idea to raise the amount of water injected.  So far, it’s running great – same boost, same outside temperature, no bad gas mode.
It’s possible that it went into bad gas mode when the water pressure was at its lowest – that coupled with the low outside air temperature.

New Version 2.0 Water Injection!

The new version of my water injection setup uses the following components:

• Shurflow 100psi pump
• Shurflow accumulator
• 2 150psi Solenoid valves
• 2 pressure switches
• Water pressure gauge
• Mini mister nozzles from http://www.mcmaster.com
• Tank with level sensor from junk yard (Oldsmobile)
• LEDs to indicate pump on, solenoid 1 on, solenoid 2 on, and low water in tank

The Shurflow pump has an internal regulator set to 100psi.  The pump is therefore supplied with +12 volts at any time the ignition switch is turned on.  The two solenoids are controlled by the two pressure switches T’d into the intake manifold (boost pressure).  The solenoids and pressure switches were purchased from http://www.poweraire.com.  Total cost for the setup was approximately $30 per solenoid, $40 for accumulator, $80 for pump, $20 per pressure switch, $10 for the gauge from Lowes hardware, $10.00 for the nozzles, $30 for various fittings, hose etc, and about $15.00 for wiring, LEDs, fuse and so forth – so a total of ~$275.00 not including shipping.  The current nozzles are a 3 gallon per hour (first solenoid) and a 5GPH (2nd solenoid) nozzle for a total of 8GPH or 504cc/min at 100psi.  The current tank can hold about 1 gallon of water, so the setup can support full boost for 6 minutes.  The pressure from the setup varies from 60psi (where the pump turns on) to 100psi (where the pump turns off).  By using an accumulator, the pump runs very infrequently.  During ‘normal’ commuting of 50miles a day, I see the pump come on about 2 times.  It takes a good while for the pressure to drop from 100psi down to 60 where the pump turns on.  Once the pump turns on, the pressure builds very quickly from 60psi to 100psi; about 2.5 seconds.
I’m currently running 19.2psi of boost with this setup, and the ECU seems happy so far (no knock mode).  Personal best 0-60MPH time is 4.8 seconds.

Future
Currently there is no more intercooler mister, as I wanted to keep the hoses going from the solenoids to the throttle body nozzles as short as possible.  By keeping these lines short, there is minimal dripping after the solenoid closes.  It also ensures that when the solenoid opens, water will flow immediately.  I’m planning on adding an additional solenoid and nozzles to mist the intercooler and possibly the front radiator under high boost conditions.

Current Measured Performance
My most recent run with the GTech performance meter shows 258HP running 19.2 psi.
More pictures on the MR2 picture page.

Old version 1.0 Water Injection

I’ve finished putting together and installing my own water injection setup.  It uses a pressure tank that contains a water bladder.  The tank is 2 gallons.  I fill the water bladder with one gallon of water, and then pressurize the tank with an air compressor to 100psi.  The setup uses two pressure switches to control two misting water nozzles (mcmaster car mini-mister nozzles).  The first nozzles comes on at 5psi and sprays water onto the outside of the intercooler.  The second nozzle comes on at 10psi – currently using 189cc/min nozzle at 100psi, and injects right before the throttle plate.  The pressurized water is controlled via two solenoid valves.  This allows the not only a fail-safe for the throttle body injector (in case one solenoid fails), but also permits the use of a second nozzle for the intercooler mister.
Advantages:
No Pump – no pump delay – injection starts immediately.
Doubles as intercooler mister.
High pressure – excellent atomization (at 40-100psi).
Turn on pressure easily adjustable via adjustable switches.
Able to run with denatured alcohol.
Disadvantages:
Filling the tank is somewhat cumbersome, but not too bad.  Have to drain air out, open valve, and gravity feed the tank occasionally letting excess air out.  After filling – close the valve, and pressurize via air compressor.  On a two gallon tank, with one gallon water, and one gallon 100psi air, after all water has been used, pressure will have dropped to 50psi.  The user can just re-pressurize the tank – but that leads to – Knowing how full the tank is.  I’m still working on this one – can use pressure reading to see how full, but would be nice to use an additional pressure switch to turn on an LED when the tank is empty.
ObservationsWater injection really does work – I’ve noticed at least a 100 degree drop in EGTs, and I can run more boost without the ECU going into the bad gas mode.  This can be observed via two LEDs connected to the turbo VSV, and the TVIS ports on the ECU.  When the ECU goes into the bad gas (knock) mode, it will open the TVIS valves under any throttle position other than closed, and the ignition timing seems to be severely retarded.  Since I changed the headgasket (and had the head resurfaced) the ECU has been going into this mode under moderate (14.2psi) with PT upgraded 50 trim turbo – I believe this is due to increased compression.  I’ve been able to run 15.6 psi with water injection without problems, and also tried 17.1psi briefly without issues.  I did some GTech runs with and without water injection, and also with a 50/50 mixture of water and denatured alcohol – results are averaged:
Just distilled water:
14.2 psi without 225
14.2psi with 222
15.6psi with water 242.
50/50 mixture of distilled water and denatured alcohol:
14.2psi – 225
15.6psi – 235
17.1psi – 242.
I attribute the lower numbers with the alcohol to the engine running too rich – but that’s just a guess.
I also did a my personal best 0-60MPH time with distilled water at 15.6psi – 5.22seconds.
More pictures are on the pictures page.
Oh – BTW – the nozzle for the intercooler is 315cc/min.  So one gallon of water will last about 7.5minutes – course that would be under boost conditions – with just the throttle body water injector it would last 20 minutes.

Fuel line

Contrary to what was previously on this page, the 16V fuel line fits fine with no modifications (both SC & NA). I mistakenly used the 20V line which needed to be extended. Sorry about that.
 

Throttle Cable

For neatness this needs to be extended a couple feet. If not, the cable will have to drape over the engine. I combined the MR2 cable with that of the 20V.

Here’s the steps and pics:

- Cut the ends of each off with pliers, being careful not to cut the actual cable.
- Strip the protective rubber about 1/2″ back exposing the metal structure of the cable housing.
- Measure/mark the length of cable needed for when your foot is off the gas pedal & when it’s all the way down. Do the same on the extension end, this time using the actual throttle assembly. If you need to expose more cable on either side, cut off more of the housing.
- Once you get the lengths right, using a 1/16″ ferrule (you may need to enlarge the hole to allow both cables to fit), crimp the 2 cables together.
- Using some 5/16″ ID fuel hose I had sitting around, that acts as a protective covering for the exposed cable/ferrule. Make sure the crimped ferrule can slide through it easy enough.
- Use some heat shrink tubing on the ends of the joint to keep moisture & dirt out.
- Then some clamps to hold the hose onto the metal housing

Alternator Bracket

The 20V has a huge alternator bracket with an idler pulley so that the belt doesn’t interfere with the chassis. You can reuse the 16V NA bracket on the 20V block. However, on the blacktop you will need to cut away some material to clear the hydraulic timing belt tensioner.

Before:

After:

Oil Pressure Sender

Use the 16V oil pressure sensor, as the Trueno/Levins just have an idiot light instead of a gauge.

Clutch/Flywheel Info

If you are replacing the clutch or flywheel make sure to get one for a C series transmission. The MR2 SC clutch/flywheel will NOT fit. The shaft on the C series trannies are smaller than the E series.

Mounting (ECU, MAP, Ignitor/Coil, Coolant Overflow Bottle)

Fab mounts for the ECU in the new driver’s side location.

For the blacktop, mount the MAP sensor at a convenient location near the #1 intake side. I used an existing welded nut on the chassis.

Same goes with the ignitor & coil, but this time near #4. I chose a place on the strut tower. 2 bolts fit perfectly in existing holes. A third hole was drilled and tapped.

Since the filler neck was on the opposite side of the engine bay, I had to use a different location for the overflow bottle. I decided to use a different bottle altogether since mine was weathered pretty bad. Just using a cheapo from Autozone at the moment.

Vaccuum Lines

The 20V has 2 brake booster lines coming off the TBs. Luckily both are on the #1 side of the engine, making it easy to route the hose to the MR2′s single booster line. I used the one that comes of the #4 TB, since the #1′s fitting can be easily removed and a bolt inserted to block it off.

You can also block of a line that was used for the power steering system in the Levin/Trueno. Near the fuel rail by #4 cylinder there should be 3 hoses, each of distinct sizes. It’s the middle sized hose that can be capped.

Crank Pulley

If you have the Silvertop, make sure to use the 16V crank pulley and timing marker. This helps with adjusting the ignition timing. On the blacktop, you can’t use the 16V timing marker since it uses a different tensioner. However, make sure to paint marks along the crank pulley, on all edges. The belt gets in the way of the inside mark making it hard to see.

Decklid Latch

The intake box on the Blacktop interferes with the engine latch. So grind away at the latch until there’s room. I had to bend one side of the latch slightly, as well as remove the bottom bolt hole to make room for the coupling to the air filter.

Axles & Tranny Stiffener

The Levins and Truenos have equal length drive shafts. Unfortunately these shafts are an inch or 2 too long to use in the MR2. The MR2 axles fit fine of course, so it may be possible to Frankenstein something together. The cup of the 20V extension shaft on the passenger side is too large for the MR2′s tulip joints. You may be able to remove the tulip joint from the 20V axle and refit it to the MR2′s axle. I’m not sure. This is something I may try later, as I have a spare driver’s side MR2 axle.

Also, if you use the MR2 axles, the 20V tranny stiffener will not fit. You can either grind away some of the material to make the stiffener fit, or just run without it. To make it fit I believe you need to chop 1 corner off, using one less bolt holding it in place.

I took my time with the wiring, basically working on it throughout the mechanical part of the swap. Since it doesn’t involve any real physical dirty work, I worked on it when I wanted to take a break from those sort of things. Plus once I got the wiring harness mapped out on paper, I could do all the work inside the AC’d house.

1. The first step is to label each connector as you remove it from the engine.
2. Once you get the harness out of the engine, start taking notes on each connector. Include the orientation of the pinout and the wire colors. Make sure to keep some space between the difference pins, as you will be making more notes here shortly.
3. Next, start taking apart the harness, removing all the tape and wire loom. Make sure to keep the harness organized and untangled, as well as in it’s original layout. Once you have the original loom & tape off of a section, loop a piece of electrical tape around the wires. A loop of tape every 12-18 inches will keep everything from getting tangled. Also, make sure to keep the wire loom so that you can reuse it once you get the loom completed.
4. When this is done, begin mapping out each and every wire. This is where most of the time is spent, but it is very important in getting to know the wiring harness. It also makes removing unneeded accessories a breeze. If you did not get a clip or half cut, this is going to make this sorta difficult, as there are quite a few wires that will just terminate at the body harness connectors. Most of these are the instrument cluster, AC, ABS, and ignition switch signals. A couple of them are for the idle-up circuitry as well. If you do have a clip, trace these pins at the body harness connectors if you can’t figure out which signals they are by where they terminate on the engine harness. There’s no need to torture yourself and map out the entire body harness. Unless you really want to. Though it is nice having the body harness stripped so that you can use it for spare wire and pins.
5. Now, start removing these unneeded circuits. These circuits won’t have all their wires on exclusive connectors. So you will need to remove some pins/wires from other needed connectors. To do this, you need something with a very tiny point. I just used a safety pin the whole time. On the late style Toyota connectors, there is usually a lock on them that you need to raise. See the white rectangular area on the connector below? Pry up on the two indented spaces with the safety pin and the lock should raise up. Do NOT attempt to remove the lock entirely from the connector. Not only is it unnecessary, but you could also destroy the lock.

   Once it is in the up position you can remove the pins by releasing the tab that is holding the individual pins inside. Look at the front of the connector and you should easily see the tab that you need to push down. While pushing down with the safety pin, pull the wire out from the back of the connector. For the older style Toyota connectors (what is on the MKI MR2) this is the only thing holding the pins inside the connectors. There is no lock.

   

   The circuits I removed from the 20V engine harness were the ABS, headlights, radiator fans, horns, and AC. Now’s the time to decide whether or not you will want to use AC.

6. After that is done, set the 20V harness aside and begin work on the MR2 harness. I also removed the body harness from the MR2, which made it easier to trace wires back into the fuse box (the engine fuse box is on the body harness of the MR2, engine harness of the 20V). I also needed to run more wires to the MR2s body harness for the Blacktop, more on that later.
7. No need to label every connector on the MR2. Only the main ones that you will reuse, the trunk connector, the grey connectors in the engine bay, and the body harness connectors that interface to the MR2′s interior harness. Also, are you going to use the MR2′s engine bay fan? If so, make sure to label those.
8. Once removed, begin stripping the old tape and loom from the MR2 harnesses. Try your best to keep the firewall grommets intact. I ended up slicing them down the middle to remove them from the harness. This worked farily well.
9. If you are going to use the engine bay fan, remove that circuit. It’s very straightforward. Now, start mapping out the wires that interface between the body and engine harness. Use the wiring diagrams in the BGB and/or Haynes manual to help. There may be some discrepancies within the documentation so be sure to check the circuits by hand just in case.
10. By now, you should understand what all you need to do to join the 20V engine harness to the MR2 body harness. Here’s a diagram that will hopefully help you out, that I put together after the swap (click on it for larger pic). This is the Blacktop wiring diagram drawn in the form of Toyota’s MR2 diagrams. The red lines indicate that it is part of the engine harness, and the black is the MR2′s body harness. So…wherever black meets red is a signal that you will need to pull to your connector interface.
    • The Silvertop harness will be slightly different, at least with the COR. The Alternator Sensing fuse is optional. You could just tie this to B if you wish.
    • Notice how I wired the engine bay fan as well. This way it’s on whenever the ignition is in the ON position. You could wire it up like the 16V MR2 with the temp sensor and the computer if you wish. Just takes a couple more wires and mounting of the sensor in the engine bay.
    • The 2 Battery+ were connected together on the other side of the connector and were part of the alternator & starter wiring direct from the battery. This is taken care of by the battery relocation wiring that I did, where I wired directly from the battery to the starter and alternator.
    • The other 2 were moved to the trunk connector



However, these are not the only signals needed to complete the interface. There are a few other wires on the body harnesses needed for the ECU. Below is a diagram of all the ECU signals. Those in blue indicate signals contained the above wire diagram. TC1 and TC2 are the two trunck connectors I used to complete the interface. So those in black that go to TC1 and TC2 will need to be in the interface as well.



I used the original trunk connector that was on the MR2 harness and an additional connector I grabbed from the 20V body-engine harness interface. I was able to eliminate both engine bay grey connectors on the original MR2 body harness which makes things a little neater in the engine bay. It may be possible to use only one connector, especially if you are doing a silvertop swap.

New Connector Diagrams

Here are pin description tables of the 2 connectors I used. By no means is this the only way to do this, it just is here to give you an idea of the signals you will need to run:

Update (Feb 14, 2008): I changed the first connector around a bit to keep this with what I’m actually currently using. When I shortened the harnesses in the trunk a year or so ago, I moved the 4 ELS signals to the second connector to reduce the number of contacts in this main connector. It was becoming too hard to detach/reattach the connector. I’ve also added the 2nd connector diagram as well as the stock 16V connector diagrams.

New 20V Trunk Connector #1:



	Body Harness (Male) Side		Engine Harness (Female) Side
1	G/W	Check Engine Light to Dash	R/Y	Check Engine Light from ECU
2	Y/Blk	Oil Pressure to Driver’s seat connector	W	Oil Pressure Sensor
3	R/W	Batt from EFI Fuse	R/W	Batt to ECU
4	NC		NC
5	Blk	Starter Relay	Blk	Terminal 50 on Starter
6	Y/G	Water Temp Gauge to Driver’s seat connector	Y/G	Water Temp Sensor
7	Blk	+B EFI Relay	Blk	+B COR, ECU, O2 Sensor, etc
8	Blk/Y	10A Engine Fuse	R/Blu	Alternator IG signal
9	NC		NC
10	Purp/W	Speed Sensor to Driver’s seat connector	Purp/W	ECU Speed Sensor input
11	R/Blk	L&R Reverse Lights	R/Blk	Reverse Switch on Tranny
12	Blk/R	Power from Ignition Main Relay	Blk/W	Ignitor/Coil & Injectors
13		Cooling Fan Relay coil side	LG/Blk	CF from ECU
14	NC		NC
15	Blk	IG- to Tachometer to Driver’s seat connector	Blk	IG- from Ignitor/Coil & Diagnosis
16	W	Alt ‘S’ 5A fuse (added to fuse/relay box)	W	Alt ‘S’ Signal
17	Y	5A Charge ‘L’ Signal from Alternator	Y	‘L’ Signal from Alternator
18	Blu	Fuel Pump	Blu/Blk	Circuit Opening Relay & Diagnosis
19	NC		NC
20	Blk/G	Engine Bay Fan	Blk/G	Engine Bay Fan
21	Blu/W	Engine Bay Fan	Blu/W	Engine Bay Fan
22	Blu/Blk	Engine Bay Fan	Blu/Blk	Engine Bay Fan

Optional

Here’s just another way at looking at the connector pin descriptions (click to zoom in):



Blue = Body Harness side
Red = Engine Harness side
* = there’s 2 ways to do this. I wired the engine bay fan to be on whenever the ignition is on. If you would like to keep the original wiring with the cooling fan computer and the temp sensor, just use the 2 empty spaces for the other 2 wires (Blk/G & Blu/W) in the circuit.

New 20V Trunk Connector #2:

The second connector contains the STA signal, a ground, the idle-up signals, and some optional things I wired in (air/fuel meter and a VVT light in my dash (which i need to fix, cause it’s still not wired right in my dash)).



	Body Harness (Male) Side		Engine Harness (Female) Side
1	NC		NC
2	W/Blk		W/Blk
3	Blu/R	Cooling Fan Relay switch side	W/Blu	ELS1 to ECU
4	Blu	Blower Relay	Blu	ELS2 to ECU
5	Blk/W	Starter Relay	Blk/W	ECU STA
6	NC		NC
7	–	A/F Meter Ground	–	O2 Sensor Ground
8	G	Taillight Relay	G	ELS3 to ECU
9	Blk	Defog Switch	Blk	ELS4 to ECU
10	R	Dash	R	ECU VVT
11	NC		NC
12	–	A/F Meter Signal	–	O2 Sensor Signal

Optional



Blue = Body Harness side
Red = Engine Harness side

Old 16V Connectors

I’ve gotten some emails in the past to document the stock 16V connectors. These vary by year, but here’s what I had on my ’85:

Stock 16V 4-pin Grey Connector in the engine bay:

Battery + Various Big Fuses Battery, Alt, Starter Black	Battery + Various Big Fuses Battery, Alt, Starter W
Engine Bay Fan Power Fan Relay Engine Bay Fan Blue/Black	Term50 Starter Relay Terminal 50 on Starter Black/W

Stock 16V 12-pin Grey Connector in engine bay:

Engine Bay Fan NC Engine Bay Fan Blue/W	–	Clutch Start Switch Driver’s side kick panel Back to starter relay pin Black/W
AC Clutch AC Clutch Fuse ECU Black/W	–	–
–	–	Starter Relay Starter Relay Back to clutch start switch pin Black
–	CEL Gauge cluster ECU G/W	–

• The AC wiring was removed since I ripped out the air conditioning system.
• Same with this engine bay fan wire, since I didn’t use the temp sensor.
• The clutch start switch and starter relay were tied together on the engine harness side. So i just soldered these connections together on the body harness side.
• CEL was moved to trunk connector.

So, to summarize with these 2 connectors: Only 3 of these wires were rerouted to the new trunk connector. The rest were either tied together, used by my new battery wiring, or discarded.

Stock 16V 22-pin Trunk Connector:Here’s the stock 16V trunk connector. The green shows the pins that weren’t moved when redoing the connector for the swap. I tried to keep it the same as much as possible.

	Body Harness (Male) Side		Engine Harness (Female) Side
1	NC		NC
2	Y/Blk	Oil Pressure to Driver’s seat connector	Y/Blk	Oil Pressure Sensor
3	NC		NC
4	NC		Blk	Injector #3 & 4
5	NC		R	Injector #1 & 2
6	Y/G		Y/G	Temp sensor
7	Blk	EFI Relay +B	Black	COR +B
8	Blk/Y	10A Engine Fuse	Blk/Y	Alternator
9	NC		NC
10	Purp/W	Speed Sensor to Driver’s seat connector	Purp/W	ECU Speed Sensor input
11	R/Blk	L&R Taillights	NC
12	Blk/R	Engine main relay&fuses	Blk/R	Ignitor/Coil
13	W/R	7.5A AM2	W/R	ECU
14	NC		NC
15	Blk	IG- to Tachometer to Driver’s seat connector	Blk	IG- from Ignitor/Coil & Diagnosis
16	NC		NC
17	Y	5A Charge fuse	Y	Alternator
18	Blu	Fuel Pump	Blu	#1 COR
19	NC		NC
20	Blk/G	Engine Bay Fan	NC
21	W/Blk	L&R Tail Lights	Br	Chassis Ground
22	Blk	Idle up diodes	Black	ECU ISC

Same as resulting connector after swap