The engine should be cool for this procedure, or you are likely to get burned.

First, you need to remove the ECU fuse or the positive battery terminal clamp. This allows the ECU to “reset” itself.

Seen here

What you’ll need to clean the MAF:MAF cleaner (the magazine article says choke & carb cleaner is OK too, but I just bought the dedicated stuff), Phillips head screwdriver

So, pop the hood and let’s see where this puppy lives.

Oh! There he is! (blue arrow)

Let’s get a little closer. Now he’s boxed in.

OK, now we know where he is. Let’s get started.

There’s a tab on the top of the MAF sensor wire harness. Push the tab down and pull the harness away from the MAF

There are 2 Phillips head screws to be removed, as indicated by the blue arrows. They’re little, so don’t lose them when you remove them!

Loosen the screws:

Remove the screws and put them somewhere safe.

Now the MAF will lift out:

You’re ready to clean it.

Here’s what you’re aiming for–the platinum wires in there. They can be damaged, so don’t put the spray nozzle directly in contact with them.

Spray the cleaner into the MAF to spray the platinum wires.

There is a little rubber O ring (blue arrow). The SpyderMagazine article mentions you might want to remove it on the chance the cleaner might make it brittle. I didn’t see the spray getting much on there, but you can also spray it with the MAF at an angle so the spray doesn’t get near the O ring.

Put the MAF back in the way it came out (there’s only one way it will fit), and tighten the screws.

Reconnect the MAF sensor wire harness by pushing it back into place.

…and VOILA! You’re done. Go have a beer, and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Or better yet, take the Spyder for a drive, THEN have that pat and beer.

When you clean the MAF, you should “reset” the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to put it through a “re-learning” process. You should do this when you clean the air filter, MAF, get new O2 sensors, spark plugs, injectors, a CAI, or exhaust and/or cat back system. Anything that affects the motor.

What you’ll need:

A Spyder! (year and color vary)

The engine should be cool when you perform this procedure, or you are likely to get burned.

–and a 10 mm wrench if you’re going to remove the negative battery terminal clamp.

You have 2 options: 1) remove the ECU fuse for 20+ minutes (preferred); or 2) remove the negative battery terminal for 20+ minutes. Although less time might be required for reset, it seems that 20+ minutes is the common method. For best results, remove the terminal or ECU fuse before you clean the MAF (or do whatever you’re doing to the car that necessitates the reset).

OPTION 1 (PREFERRED): Removing the ECU fuse. This method has less “collateral damage”–it will not lead to the loss of your radio presets or clock setting.

Where is it? It’s in the fuse box on the forward driver’s side portion of the engine bay, next to the battery.

There’s a small ‘catch’ on the front (frunk side) of the fuse box cover–push it in with your finger and lift up on that end of the cover. The cover will lift off. The rear catches are like hinges, so you pivot the cover and it will disengage from that side.

When you lift the cover off, it will be ‘upside down’–turn it 180 degrees so the diagram on the inside of the cover matches up with the fuses.

Examining the fuse diagram on the fuse box inside cover, you’ll see the ECU fuse as the 2nd one from the bottom on the left side (in the third slot–the lowest slot is empty in a stock Spyder). In this photo, the ECU fuse is outlined in blue boxes on the cover diagram and the fuse box itself. In the rear right corner of the box, there is a pair of plastic fuse pullers (they look like plastic tweezers) designed to safely remove the fuses (yellow arrow).

Remove the fuse pullers, squeeze the top together to separate the forks, and lower the forks over the fuse. Relax your grip on the top, and let the fuse pullers grasp the fuse. They will click into place.

Pull up gently on the fuse pullers (but don’t squeeze the top together, or they will let go of the fuse) to remove the ECU fuse.

Here is a view of the fuse box from the driver’s side of the car, with the ECU fuse removed.

Put it in a safe place.

Leave the fuse out for at least 20 minutes for the “reset” procedure.

To reinsert the fuse, use the fuse pullers to gently reinsert it into its proper receptacle. NOTE: the numbers on the top of the fuse will be upside down to you when inserted correctly (look at all of the fuses–the numbers face opposite your direction). Make sure you put it back in the same direction you removed it. It will click into place.

Release the fuse pullers’ grip on the fuse by pinching the top together and pulling upward. Put the fuse pullers back in their place.

Replace the cover by turning it back around (so the diagram is now upside down to you), hook the two catches on the rear end on the ‘hinges,’ and push down on the front of the cover until it clicks into place.

OPTION 2: Removing the NEGATIVE battery terminal clamp.

**NOTE: this will result in the loss of your radio presets and clock setting.

The battery is on the driver’s side of the engine bay. Here’s a hint–the positive battery terminal is the one with the red cover with the big PLUS sign on it.

Using a 10mm wrench, loosen (but do not remove) the nut on the negative terminal clamp.

When the clamp is sufficiently loose, grasp both sides of the clamp. Wiggle it back and forth and pull up gently, and it will come off the terminal.

To protect the terminal clamp while you work on other things (like the MAF sensor cleaning), you can wrap it in a cloth.

Leave the terminal disconnected for 20 minutes. To reconnect, simply place the terminal clamp back over the battery terminal and gently push it downward until it is firmly seated on the terminal. Using the 10 mm wrench, tighten the nut so the terminal clamp is firmly secured. If you have an SMT, you may hear the accumulator pump start up when you reconnect the terminal–it can be startling, so just be prepared.

So, now that THAT’S done, let’s move on to the nitty gritty. You can clean the MAF while the ECU fuse or battery terminal clamp is disconnected, to make the most efficient use of your time. See the separate page for cleaning the MAF.

Also if you’re unsure what the issue with your fan is check out my idiots guide to diagnosing a bad cooling fan.

Tools required:
1) 10mm wrench.
2) 8mm wrench/socket.
3) Medium sized Phillips screwdriver.

Optional:
1) Flat headed screwdriver

Now onto the install. Once you remove the frunk plastics you will be greeted with this site.

You’ll need to take off the two bolts (10mm) which have a red arrow going to them and remove the two bars they are holding. Then you will need to remove the two bolts that hold the fan assembly in. These are circled in green above and I have a close up picture with a red arrow pointing at one below.

^^This is why you need a 10mm wrench and not just a socket.
Next pull the wire out from all of the clips holding it in place. Two examples of these are circled in green below. Once that’s done push down on the black connector with a red arrow going to it so it pops off of it’s holder.

Now you can disconnect the plugs on the drivers side motor (pink arrow above) and the black plug that has a red arrow going to it. Below is a picture attempting to show where to push on the connector so you can pull it off. If you’ve ever worked with the other electrical connectors on this car these are no different. Basically you have to wrestle with it a little bit but eventually the thing will pop off. Just keep trying.

Now pull up on the whole fan assembly which will fully remove it (more on why that is in a bit). Once you can move the whole assembly around freely you can get the last connector shown in the picture below. Just put your fingernail or flat headed screw driver where mine is and pull that tab out and it should release quite easily.

Now you can also examine what it was that held in the fan assembly up until now. I have a picture of one of the connectors that slips in a slot on the assembly. This is useful information as you will need to make sure you get the slots lined up so the bottom is secured when you put the assembly back in at the end.

Next remove the nut holding on the fan blades (circled in red below) with a 8mm wrench/socket.

Once the blades are removed you can get to the three screws which are holding the motor in place (circled in red below).

The motor just slips right out at this point and it’s just a matter of doing the reverse of this whole process.

I also have a video to show how much extra resistance my old motor had compared to the one that still worked.

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b221/dar…es6-24-0830.flv

As for difficulty, on a scale of 1-10 (1 being cleaning your MAF) this is a 1.5 I would say. A very easy task which looks hard but probably would only take 15 minutes to half an hour.

Feel free to ask any questions or make comments!

I’ve been waiting till its time to change my oil again to replace the oil cooler hoses, as these guys have been leaking for some time. I decided to replace them with Aeroquip Stainless Steel Braided hoses, since the price difference isn’t all that much, and maybe it could help in the cooling of the oil, since these hoses run so close to the exhaust manifold. But 3′ of regular oil cooler hoses from Autozone can be used for $3 total. The 2 hoses you need to replace are 16″ and 20″ long, with 3/8″ Inside Diameter (or -6AN).

Here’s the 3 feet of hose I ordered from Summit Racing for $15 + shipping, part #AER-FCA0603

I also ordered new copper crush washers for the banjo bolts from the local Toyota dealer, about $4 total. They are circled in red in the below pic (the green ovals representing the hoses I am to replace). I also purchased new worm gear clamps at local Autozone (smallest size they had, range: 7/32″-5/8″)

Washer Part #s: 90430-12018 & 90430-14235 (need 2 of each)

And since I’m up in this area working, I went ahead and replaced the o-rings that go between the oil filter, oil filter sandwich, and the block. Go here for that write-up. And I also dropped the oil pan to replace its gasket. I would suggest at least doing the oil filter gaskets at the same time as doing the oil cooler lines.

Parts:

• 3′ of 3/8″ ID oil cooler lines, $3 for regular rubber hose, $15 for braided stainless
• Copper Crush washers, $4
• Hose Clamps, $1

Removal:

1) Jack up rear of car and support on jack stands.

1) Loosen lugnuts. Jack up and support the vehicle and remove the wheel.

2) Now look toward the rear of the vehicle and remove the 10mm bolts (green) and Phillips screws (red).

3) Also there’s another 10mm bolt on the bottom on other side of the mudflap.

4) Remove mudflap (if installed) and unsnap the wheel well cover from the fender. And here’s what you will most likely see. A nice pile of leaves, dirt, and unknown matter.

5) Clean it out real good and hopefully you won’t have any rust back there.

6) Installation is opposite of removal. (Make sure to tighten lugnuts to 76 ft-lbs.) And then repeat for the other side of the vehicle.

(new piston not pictured)

1) Make sure the clutch hydraulics are emptied.

2) Disconnect the clip & clevis pin from the master cylinder push rod, holding it to the clutch pedal.

3) Here’s the location of the clutch master cylinder under the hood. Remove the black plastic cover if you have that in place.

4) Loosen the 2 bolts holding the cylinder to the firewall. Then loosen the banjo bolt. Pull the master cylinder out from the car. It’s quite tight fit in there, so use the appropriate curse words when trying to loosen these bolts

5) Remove the bolt holding the reservoir to the cylinder

6) Pull back the rubber boot. There’s no need to unscrew the clevis from the push rod. This saves you from having to adjust the clutch pedal after you reassemble it to the car.

7) Using a set of snap ring pliers (or a screwdriver) remove the snap ring holding the push rod/washer in place.

Here’s what you should have now:

9) Pull out the piston/spring assembly. You may have to use compressed air to where the banjo bolt attaches to push out the piston. However mine was quite loose, that it just took a small screwdriver & fingers to get it out.

10) Clean up the inside and outside of the cylinder with denatured alcohol or fresh brake fluid. If you notice any pits or scrapes in the cylinder, you will need to replace it with a new one. Here’s mine after a cleaning and a fresh coat of paint:

11) Lube up the new piston o-rings, with lithium soap base grease (the stuff that comes with the caliper rebuild kits):

12) Slide it into the cylinder

13) Pack the end of the piston, where the push rod will rest & pivot, with grease. Here’s how the push rod, washer, and snap ring are inserted. (Your push rod will probably have the clevis and boot still attached. That’s okay)

Using the snap ring pliers attach the snap ring in place:

14) Replace the boot:

15) Replace the reservoir with the new copper crush washers that came in the kit:

16) Reinstall the master cylinder in the car, opposite its removal. Use new crush washers for the banjo bolt. Unfortunately, my rebuld kit didn’t come with new ones.

17) Fill and bleed clutch system according to repair manual.

Tools needed:

• Various sockets and wrenches
• Screwdriver
• Rebuild kit ~$20(Toyota part # 04479-32011)
• Air compressor (to remove caliper piston)
• Denatured alcohol or brake fluid to clean parts

Front Removal

Here’s the front rebuild kit, about $15 from local auto parts store.

1) Loosen lugnuts, raise and support front of vehicle. Remove lugnuts and wheel.

2) Drain the brake fluid pressure from the bleed valve on the caliper. Place a hose over the valve and use an 8mm wrench to loosen the valve.

3) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to it’s mounting bracket.

4) Remove the 14mm banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper. Expect some brake fluid to leak through.

5) Here’s some pics of the caliper removed.

6) Push the slider out one side of the caliepr. I just used a pair of pliers as shown below to do this.

7) It should pop loose, then you can pull it the rest of the way out

Remove the 2 rubber dust boots.

9) Inside the caliper, you will see a collar. Remove this.

10) Do the same for the other sliders, and here’s the parts you will have removed.

11) Use a small screwdriver to pry out the piston set ring.

12) Pull out the piston boot.

13) Remove the piston from the cylinder with compressed air connected to the banjo bolt hole. Tighten the bleeder valve and make sure to place a block of wood or a rag inside the caliper, so that when the piston pops out it is not damaged. And believe me it will POP.

14) Pry out the piston o-ring with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to score the cylinder walls.

15) Just a pic of the cleaned up calipers after under a brass cleaning wheel.

16) Clean the sliders and collars in denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.

17) Also, clean the inside of the cylinder and the piston with denatured alcohol or brake fluid.

Front Assembly

1) Here’s all the parts laid out:

2) Make sure everything is nice and clean. Use denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.

3) Using the grease that came with the rebuild kit, grease up the cylinder o-ring. And then place it in the cylinder.

4) Grease up the piston

5) And insert it in the cylinder. It may take some force to get it in there. But it should slide smoothly once over the seal.

6) Insert the new cylinder boot around the piston. Then insert its set ring that holds the boot in place.

7) Grease the outside of the collar and slide it into the cylinder.

Grease one of the dust boots and insert it into the cylinder. Then grease up the slider.

9) Now, here’s a little trick. Take the other boot, and place it backwards over one end of the slider.

10) Insert the end of the boot in the cylinder and slide the slider in place

11) Lock the boots in place over the ends of the slider. Repeat steps 7-11 for the other slider.

12) Reinstallation of the calipers on the car is opposite the removal. Make sure to bleed the brakes properly & thoroughly.

*Applies mainly to 85-86 NA MR2s. 87+ MR2s have their Intake filter mounted in the trunk. However, if you wish you can follow this writeup & move the filter into the engine bay like the 85/6s.

This is a very common modification for the MKI MR2s and usually the first people do. The stock air filter setup is quite restrictive to airflow. There are quite a bit of writeups for this one, but hopefully I can provide you with more detailed pictures for performing the mod. Things may be slightly different for newer year MKIs.

Results after doing this include faster revving & a louder note from the engine above 3000 rpm and this mod has been dyno’d (not by me and my setup though) and showed about a 5HP peak increase in the upper rpm band. One thing I did notice, is that there is a slight buzzing from the intake between 4000-4200 rpm. Nothing to worry about though, it’s just resonate frequency being induced into the system from removing the factory resonator box.

Here’s what you need to do the basics (there are a few places that sell the entire kit online, particularly Ebay., I went the separate purchases route myself):

• The cone filter, which you can purchase a generic one at your local Pep Boys/Autozone for about 20 bucks. (Or you could find a K&N or Apex’i unit for a little more that requires a bit more fabrication.) It has a 3″ fitting on the end, which is a little large for the AFM, but you can make it work.
• If you have an 85-86 you will need the AFM adapter on the right in the picture below. You can find these at your local junkyard, by looking in a Nissan 240/280x or from someone on Ebay.
• 2″-2″ coupling, which you can purchase at your local hardware store in the plumbing section.
• If you have AC you will need a fitting to hookup the AC idle-up line to the above coupling. I ended up not using the one shown below, instead I stuck with the stock T-fitting and added a 1/4″ barb splicer with some spare hose.
• Also, it’s a good idea to add a rain shield so that water doesn’t run from the decklid onto the filter. So grab some plexiglass or lexan.
• Various scrap metal and bolts to construct brackets that hold the AFM and plexiglass in place.

Total cost is around $50.

Removal

1) Here’s the stock setup. Begin by removing the air filter & its cover:

1) Remove the air filter & AFM. See the intake page for assistance.

2) Remove the Throttle Body by removing the below circled hoses, bolts, etc. Consult the BGB or Haynes for more details:

a) Green – Remove the VTV and it’s hoses, take note of which way the VTV is situated, black side to the rear of the car

b) Red – Air hose and clamp

c) Yellow – 4 coolant hoses

d) Orange – There’s 2 coolant hoses w/ clamps here behind the VTV. Both are full of coolant, so be sure to be ready for some spillage as you remove them.

e) Purple – Remove the throttle spring and the adjustment rod. The rod is removed by just prying and spinning it out.

f) Blue – Now you can remove the two 12mm nuts and two 12mm bolts that hold the throttle body in place. There’s also a 12mm bolt that connects the yellow-circled hoses to the TB, which you cannot see in this pic. You will need to remove it too.

3) Here’s the the intake with the TB removed. You can see the oily residue. Clean up inside as far as you can reach, but don’t drop anything down in there.

4) Just some pics of the TB cleaned up. It will be just as dirty as the intake. So, take some carb cleaner to it and clean it up nicely. But! before you do this remove the TPS, as getting brake cleaner on it will likely damage it. Just remove the 2 screws and pull it out. You will need to readjust it when putting it back on the car. Also, make sure to clean up the old gasket on the TB and the intake manifold with a razor blade, making sure not to scratch or gouge the surfaces.

Just a pic of the TPS removed:

5) When replacing the TPS it’s a good idea to replace the screws with some allen wrench type bolts. This way the TPS is easier to get to to adjust while the TB is on the car. The name/size of the bolts to get from your local Lowes/Home Depot is “4mm x 12mm cap screw socket”. I also used two 4mm washers.

5) Now you need to adjust the TPS. For help with that, go here.

6) Installation of the TB is opposite of removal. Use some Permatex RTV for the gasket between the TB and intake manifold, or purchase a new gasket from Toyota. Also, make sure to burp the coolant system once you get everything back together. You also may need to adjust the idle speed screw that is on the TB.

Remove the Starter. There are some electrical connectors usually covered by a black plastic cover.

Be sure to have your battery disconnected first. The black box covers 2 of the wires. Pop it off.

Use the 14mm on that bad boy.

Pull the two wires off, and put the nut back on, then replace the black box so you don’t lose them.

There is one connector to the passenger side of the black box. Unclip that little guy.

Finally, there are two large bolts connecting the starter body to the transmission. These bolts are close to the tranny, and not the skinny ones easily visible at the end of the starter. Unbolt them with a socket and medium extension. Pull the starter out of the tranny, and set it down somewhere without damaging the teeth on the gear.
Disconnect the backup light switch (gray electrical connector on top of the tranny), ground cables (multiple, don’t worry if you can’t find them at this point, you will definitely find them when you start to drop the tranny down), and Speedo cable or Speed Sensor from the tranny.

Here’s a picture of the 91 speedo sensor. 10mm bolt holding it to the tranny at the bottom right.

Remove the rear wheels and raise the car. Place the wheels under the car for safety. You want to support it under the body in front of the rear wheels with jack stands. Note: Ignore the stand in the middle in this picture.

Remove the plastic undertray from below the car. 5 10mm bolts.
Drain the tranny fluid.

Push the axles through the axle carriers. This will involve many steps. First, set the parking brake, and take the rear wheels off.

A: Take the cotter pins and axle end caps off.

Parking brake still on right? It’s 32mm socket and breaker bar time. Jeez.

This might help so the socket doesn’t slip off like it did on me multiple times. The pressure from the jack keeps the socket on the bolt where it would normally want to torque/twist off.

Remove the discs with a 10mm bolt screwed into the two small holes to get the disc to pop off the assembly if necessary, see pic…

C: Disconnect sway bar from the end links. 14mm wrench and hex wrench.

D: Disconnect balljoint from lower suspension arm. 2 17mm bolts.

E: Disconnect adjustment arm from brake assembly.

Pop axles through the brake assembly. Before you do this you will have to undo the two strut bolts that connect the strut to the axle carrier (19mm). Use a piece of wood and hammer to hit the axles straight towards the engine. This may take a lot of hits, keep at it, it will free up, and pop through.

They should come out of the carriers and look like this

Remove right hand (passenger) axle only. There are a few ways to do this, the one I used was to remove the axle carrier and just pull the axle out. This first pic is looking through the crossmember at the back of the engine. From below, remove the following

1: Two carrier bolts (removed already)

2: Support brackets nut (removed already)

3: Short support bracket end bolt

4: Long support bracket end bolt

 
Now, once the bracket is loose (pop it off the block with a screwdriver so it’s free) just pull on the entire axle assembly, and it will dance out of the tranny.

Here’s the whole thing. I think this way is much easier than the BGB way. Thanks to Shane Craddock for the idea on this.

Disconnect the tranny control cables.

The starter (red circle) should give you a reference for where these are.. Pop the 2 clips off with a screwdriver or pliers, pull the cables off, and put back the washers and clips. One cable has 1 washer, and the other has 2, don’t mix them up.

Now, get under the car, and pop these two mount clips off the cables with a screw driver and hammer. They pop straight up and off.

Then push the cables out of the mounts so that they are free floating.

Here’s another shot of a clip partially off.

Here they are disconnected from below.

Remove Exhaust system.

Aftermarket systems are much easier than stock. You may want to use some PB Blaster on all of the bolts a day before hand to make your life easier. If you strip out a stud/nut/bolt, be prepared to drill it out. Notice I previously drilled out the stock studs, and used nuts and bolts instead.

3 on the cat.

2 on the rear b-pipe with the Greddy Power Extreme system.

The rest of the pics show the 3 hanger locations.

 
Remove Slave Cylinder and Front Motor Mount through bolt and Tranny side of the motor mount

Time to get the slave cylinder off the tranny otherwise you’ll have to cut the lines which would not make things any easier on you later.

The Slave Cylinder can be challenging to remove and install. It’s hard to see the bolts, and to reach them.
There are only 4 bolts to worry about. In the past I’ve always seen people (myself included) undoing most of the pictured bolts just because you can’t see what’s holding it on from above or below very well. The top two just hold it down to the tranny. The bottom two sandwich it to the front motor mount and the tranny. The motor mount is not pictured in this pic.

The next few pics are of an install, but will still be helpful, just do the reverse. Under the car, lining up that bolt hole on the right to make things easier.

First step to installing it, temporarily mount the two lower bolts without the engine mount installed.

Here you can see the upper bolt on the drivers side being tightened down with a small wrench and small socket. This is to give you an idea where the bolt is.

Same as above.

Another pic of that bolt.

Here’s the upper passenger side bolt being tightened down. Notice the longer socket than the drivers side bolt.

Another angle of the passenger side bolt.

Finally, remove the lower two bolts which were loosely on there, and put the motor mount on, then re-install the two lower bolts.

At this point it’s a good idea to use a jackstand and a 2×4 to support the engine. Put the 2×4 under the low part of oil pan, not the transmission. We want to keep the engine where it is so we can remove the motor mounts safely. Later it may be necessary to raise and lower the engine to get the transmission on and off. Keep that in mind and allow yourself space for a jack.

Remove the through bolt for the front motor mount.

On the left, the through bolt is removed, and on the right in the tranny side of the motor mount there are two bolts that due to lack of space must be undone with a wrench. The reason to pull these off is because they are holding the slave cylinder to the tranny.

Unbolt rear motor mount through bolt.

I: If the car has ABS, detatch ABS line from the crossmember. 1 10mm bolt on each side. Also, be careful to move the ABS line above the swaybar, or you might damage it when you drop the crossmember.

J: Unbolt assembly arm from car body.

The left arrow points to a crossmember bolt that’s coming up next. The arrow on the right shows you a better shot of the assembly arm.

K: Time to drop the crossmember. Break the bolts loose, but do not take them out yet.

Now is a good time to get another person to help, or use a jack to support the crossmember. Undo the four bolts the rest of the way. Lower the crossmember and pull it out.

Remove drivers side motor mount bolts

From below, these bolts hold the tranny to the tranny side of the motor mount.

The left two arrows point to the top view of the bolts we saw from below two pictures ago. The bolts on the right hold a stay bar, and a mount for the speedo cable.

Another view with bolts loose.

Feel around between the tranny and block and frame for any hoses/wires/clips/etc that are still connected. Disconnect them and don’t forget to install them later.

At this point, the BGB says “REMOVE TRANSAXLE”. Meaning, remove the transmission from the engine block. To do this, you have to unbolt many bolts all the way around the tranny, top/bottom/sides. Below are many pics of a tranny out of the car to give you an idea of where the bolts are. I removed the them in a clockwise order, and then used a marker to write down numbers on the bolt heads. This made reinstall very easy. I suggest you do some sort of organization with the bolts, otherwise you’ll be doing what I’ve seen happen twice, guessing at which bolts go where. Since some of these bolts take a lot of stress, you want to be sure to put them in their proper places. SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION WITH A JACK AND 2X4 or 2X6. YOU NEED A FRIEND TO HELP AT THIS POINT. Your helper will sit on the drivers side of the car with the jack and 2×4 under the tranny. They will raise and lower the jack to help you get the tranny out, as well as help balance the transmission. Sometimes it will be necessary to lower the engine down to get the tranny off. You should already have a jackstand and 2×4 under the oil pan. Use another jack to lower the engine. When you are lowering the tranny, you may find wires/groundstraps/hoses/etc still connected, just disconnect them and write them down on a piece of paper to reinstall when you put it back in. It can actually take some time to separate the tranny from the block. Just keep checking for bolts you may have missed. You can use flathead screwdrivers to help pry the tranny off. Be very careful on this step. The transmission is very heavy, so absolutely make sure you are ready at all times, and have a friend backing you up.

Here you can see how some of the connect to the block.

Notice the “peg” in this picture. There are a few of them in between the block and tranny, and they help position the tranny on install. They also make it a pain to seperate the tranny and block sometimes. Be aware of them.

Here are some about to be removed.

This what the BGB shows you.

Once you get that badboy off and out of the way, you’ll have something like this sticking to the engine (ok, hopefully not this damaged!). Remove this clutch cover and then the clutch disc (14ft lbs on reinstall). There are multiple bolts connecting it to the flywheel. Note which way the clutch is facing. There is a right way and a wrong way, the center section sticks out on one side, and not on the other.

Remove the 8 bolts on the flywheel. Note this is a resufaced flywheel, your old one won’t look quite so nice.

Here’s a new stock clutch on the left next to an old stock one on the right.

Aftermarket on the left.

Old clutch cover.

Here’s the flywheel after being “turned”. In order to maximize the life and biting power of the new clutch, you will want to take your old flywheel to a machine shop to have it turned. Definitely do this!

Another resurfaced flywheel.

Reinstall the newly resurfaced flywheel. Put a drop of locktite or threadlocker on each of the bolts, and torque them down to 72ft lbs in a criss cross pattern, do one pass at 20ft lbs, another at 40, another at 60, then 72.

Clean the hell out of the flywheel and clutch cover with brake cleaner.

FYI: You want to clean the flywheel after it’s on the car otherwise it will get dirty from the install.

Install the clutch cover with the clutch in between the cover and flywheel, facing the correct way.

Use the tool that comes with most clutches to center the clutch disc. Just use your best guess, it can still be adjusted later.

I can’t stress this cleaning and greasing part enough, do this well or you will have a squeaky clutch in neutral. Remove old throwout bearing and release fork, clean them with Brake Cleaner as well. Grease the inside of the new throwout bearing, and the mating surfaces where it meets the the realease fork. Also grease the end of the realease fork where the slave cylinder pushrod connects. I used some lithium grease for this entire section. Be sure that you do a good job on the cleaning, and when greasing, don’t get any large gobs anywhere otherwise some could get on the clutch surfaces and ruin it.
Reinstall tranny. Here we’ve got the tranny and engine on jacks, (normally the balance point of the tranny is closer towards the drivers side, but once you’ve got it on, you can move the jack around as shown in this pic) and raised the tranny up, and slid it over onto the engine. You can see a hand at the top starting one of the first bolts. If you are having trouble mounting the tranny on, try to get one of the larger bolts started, but don’t strip it out. Once you get one started, you can move on to the other bolts that are near it. You also have to line up the splines with the clutch disc otherwise the tranny will not slide all the way on, and this can take a few tries. Then you have to get the tranny mated to the block. Just start trying to get the large bolts started. Once you get one or two going, tighten them down a bit, and try the others. Remember the pegs sticking out of the block. These have to be centered first before you can start any of the bolts. Have a friend help raise and lower the tranny and engine to line them up while you try to start some of the bolts.

Note: Be careful when putting the passenger axle back in to not damage the outer seal by putting it in at an angle otherwise you’ll have a tranny fluid leak there. I think we were crossing our fingers in this pic because it’s tough getting those new seals in there correctly