parts and tools:
vice grips
12mm flare nut wrench
14, 12 & 10 mm socket and ratchet
hammer and flat head screwdriver

all other tools to remove transmission

new manual transmission
shifter cables
master and slave cylindars
clutch hard lines and soft line
clutch hard line connector
brake and transmission fluid
entire shifter assembly
grease
brake pedal from manual transmission mr2
clutch pedal and assembly

start off by removing the center console:

there are some electrical plugs to remove, and you must remove the bolts holding the entire shifting assembly onto the car. You can just remove everything and disconnect the cable. I didn’t know this at first, and since i didn’t intend on keeping any of the pieces I just broke everything and then figured it out you may need to keep the small black computer attached to the shift assembly. I have heard that if you just do a straight manual conversion that you need it to start the car, and the automatic shifter needs to be in park when you remove it. otherwise the car may not start. I believe you also need to plug that computer back in when you’re done. I did not need that computer, probably because i put in the gen 3 with the new harness designed for a manual. after that disconnect the cable from the transmission.

remove the transmission from the car. ( I took the whole engine out ).

remove the gas tank. ( this I needed to do anyway, and would not have otherwise known where to route the cables).

Install your new master cylindar in the frunk. it bolts directly to the clutch pedal you must also install now. there is a dust cover over the hole. push it out from the passenger compartment. place a light on the floor of the passenger compartment facing forward. this allows you to see where to mount the master cylindar. you need to install both pieces at the same time, and it is easiest with two people, although this is the hardest part of the swap IMO. you may notice there is a sensor on the pedal assembly. You will not have anything to plug there so don’t worry about it. generally you would need to depress the clutch pedal to start the car, but I do not need to. I thus assume that the ecu defaults to allowing you to start the car if the sensor bugs out. Its a good thing toyota did that . you also need to install a new brake pedal because the manual car uses a smaller pedal so there is room for the clutch pedal.

now, you may want to rebuild your shifter assembly.

It just takes some time and a little work you may need to get physical to get the shifter out of the bushing. I just hit it against a piece of steel until it came out (probably not the best idea, but it worked.) remove all bolts and retainers and washers, and just get the whole thing into as many peices as you can (remembering where everything goes of course ) now take a look at everything, isn’t that dirty!

clean everything well, and put fresh grease on the bushings. I took this time to install a TRD short shifter

Put it in the car!!! it bolts right in.

route your shifter cables through the rear firewall where your old one went. you can either customise that rubber seal to fit two cables, or get a new one.

see how the center console fits:

if you are just doing the manual conversion, plug that little black computer back in before you install the center console.

route your clutch lines. there is a short one from the master cylindar, and a longer one that attaches via connector to the short one. Use a flare nut wrench to connect them. size 12mm I believe for all connectors on the clutch lines. that is the only connector you need to buy. I got all my lines from Toyota. the long line follows the brake line perfectly, they even left dual hose brackets for you! Just unbolt them one by one and put them back on with both the clutch and brake lines in them. easy!

make sure your bleeder valve works for your slave cylindar BEFORE you put your transmission back in. its in a really bad place to replace if you break it. now put your transmission back in the car. fill it with fluid. hook up the flexible hose to the hard line at the front of the engine bay with a flare nut wrench (12mm). now you just need to bleed the system and you should be good to take it for a test drive. it took me an entire hour of bleeding for the pedal to get pressure, so don’t give up! Also, make sure you don’t let the master cylindar run out of fluid while bleeding. otherwise you get to start all over again!

Enjoy!!!

THE reason that you have to remove all traces of R-12 in a system is because the introduction of R-134 turns the R-12 traces to glue. This is in fact, a good thing, as hoses now become sealed up, instead of leaking even more like was previously believed.

It is a myth that all of the O-rings need to be replaced. Also, the oil is the one of the biggest issues, so:

1. Do NOT EVER get a new “R-134″ compressor just because you had an R-12 compressor. It’s the same compressor as an R12 compressor, but it has a different oil charge from the factory. It’s a simple job to flush the compressor with alcohol.

2. The same applies to the condensor and all of the other parts, except the receiver/dryer – all of the system can be flushed with alcohol (denatured). It is NOT necessary to replace major parts of the system because you want to convert it. (The residual alcohol boils out when you pull a vacuum on the system – it has a high vapor pressure.)

3. Put in the required amount of Ester oil, usually about 6 oz. This is synthetic, and is THE perfect replacement for the old crappy mineral oil (R-12) and PAG (R-134).

4. Replace the Receiver/Dryer. It’s cheap, and it affects performance.

5. If you put in R-134, fill with a charge equivalent to 80% of the R-12 charge, which is 28-32 oz. for ’91-’93 MR2′s.

6. Your vacuum pump may not pull to 30 Inches of Mercury (not PSI). Any reasonable vacuum below 20 in. Hg. will do fine. The real trick here is to boil out any residual moisture. The greater the vacuum, the more effective the procedure.

7. Connect both manifold hoses when you get started. There’s less chance of getting air into the system if you pull a vacuum through the whole system, all hoses included. (Open both manifold valves.)

8. A properly charged and functional MR2 A/C system will in fact cool pretty well with R-134. I have proof of this with a few MK2′s.

9. If you really want a fluorescent dye added, get one that’s Ester oil based, as it will work in almost any system.

10. Ditch the crappy R-134!!! It’s molecules are smaller (so we are told) than R-12 molecules, so it leaks out faster. (This is one reason for the O-ring story – the newer O-rings are supposed to seal “better”. Maybe…)

ES-12a, manufactured by EnviroSafe in Pekin, IL, is THE stuff to get. It is:

1. Non-ozone depleting
2. Non-toxic (well, not severely brain damaging like R-134)
3. Flammable (but not like propane is)
4. It’s only a mail order product for most of us
5. You use less than R-12 or R-134
6. It’s a petroleum product, so it’s molecules are larger than R-12 and R-134 molecules, so it has less chance to leak.
7. It is compatible with almost every A/C oil out there – no need to change oil.
8. For 12 bucks, you can add a can of ProSeal to fix most small leaks.

8. COLD. No, I mean COLD. I HIGHLY recommend the Industrial ES-12a, as it gets colder than the regular version. MR2′s will cycle off about 42 degrees F (measured at the center duct). My Lexus SC300 goes down to 31 degrees. The colder it gets, the more efficient it is, and the less it needs to work to get your car cold. My MR2 has will pull the duct temp up to 50 degrees below the inlet temp. R-12 and R-134 will not ever do that.

I’ve put this stuff in so many cars, I’ve gone through two cases of cans and a 30 Lb. tank.

AND, don’t forget to check your heater water valve to make sure it’s closing all the way. (The heater core lines should be cold to the touch.)

1992-1996: 1MZ-FE
Compatible, but not recommended.
Early 90′s 3vz is proven to work also*

Source Cars:
Avalon
Solara
Lexus ES300
Camry

What to Buy / Get with Engine:
“remember to get a 97+ manual motor w/ ecu or you will have drama”

– Engine Long Block -dugh
– Transmission (97+ recommended, not required for Turbo owners)
– AC Compressor
–Alternator*
– AC Lines to compressor (cut)
– Alternator
– Engine Mounts
– Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there)
– ECU
– ECU Harness (uncut)
– Dash Plugs that go to ECU
– Tachometer from 97+ 1MZ-FE Car (only if you started with a NA tach
– Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)*optional
– 94+ V6 Intermediate Shaft (with 6 bolts on CV joint) *must be modified
Credits -derek2000GT

Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read
There aren’t really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don’t worry about upsetting your balance.

Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT)

There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you’d like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003)

Engine Mounts: General
Someone should definitely post some blueprints here.

“In total there are 5 possible mounts–3 for the tranny and 2 for the engine (anterior and posterior). The passenger side 3S-GTE/5S-FE engine mount must be abandoned if you anticipate putting a supercharger on (and who doesn’t).” -chall

I have built two motor mounts that use the pass side mount. Complete fabrication of all mounts is not necessary but recommended if you want a mount to absorb any engine noise.

Fuel Return: Adapting Properly
The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accomodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from a 3VZ-FE which is a direct fit.

3VZ-FE Option
“This is old news to Camry guys but a 3VZ-FE return fuel rail system will bolt right on to 1MZ-FE. this set up gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. …if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in.

…if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail i would highly reccommend the 3VZ-FE rail install…save time and will be 100% OEM.” -derek2000GT

Tapping the Rail Option
“The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system.” -chall

I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars.

Tachometer: Get it Working
“You will need to buy a tach from a 97+ 1MZ-FE equipped car. (AVALON, CAMRY, SOLARA, SEINNA, ES300) The tachs are the same on all models and will bolt right into cluster w/ no mods at all.” -derek2000GT

“It is almost scary how plug and play most Toyota parts are, at least in this swap. The tach looks virtually identical to the stock MR2 tach (the mechanical part that attaches to the back of the face). …we found that the tach slips right in and, thud, no tach adaptor needed.” -chall

“You will need the tach overlay for an NA MKII MR2. It has a 180 deg sweep with a 6300 redline. As oppesed to a 180 deg sweep 7000 redline/ 7250 revlimit Turbo gauge. Without it your tach will be completely inaccurate. It fits and has the same font/ look as other MR2 gauges.” -Luke

I have also used a 1k ohm resistor and diode hooked to two of the negative sides of the coils and used the stock tach. If I’ve not updated the link, I will shortly.

BUT:
“The block-transmission bolt patterns on the 5S-FE, 3S-GTE, and the 1MZ-FE are the same. Any transmission that works with one engine should work with any of them.” -chall
(This includes manual transmissions)

Some Info About VVT-I
VVT-I Engines availble only in automatic, until 2003. (Manual Tranny bolts on though)
Wiring / ECU issues will need to be addressed, due to automatic transmission errors
TRD is developing piggyback VVT-I ECU, available 2003

A piggyback VVT-I controller is neccessary to properly run. (Wolf EMS: http://www.wolfems.com.au) -derek2000GT

Driveshafts: Adaption and Conversion
“The V6 intermediate shaft (A) bolt right to MR2 CV joint on passenger side. ….Use a V6 intermediate shaft that has 6 bolts on CV joint which is same a MR2 so you can bolt to outer MR2 axle” -derek2000GT

The 93+ Turbo drivers side driveshafts should fit properly, without any adjustments.

*EDIT*

Please see the FAQ on this, you will have to machine a new C-clip for the driveshaft to work. No one has successfully found a shaft that will correctly fit the V6 mount and MR2 tranny. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. (I want specific model and year info along with a quick photo if possible)

Radiator hoses I used
(1)71704 Hose to connect to the factory pipe in the engine bay, left side.
(2) 80413 Heater hoses 90 degree bend on the end.

These hoses work real well. I had to cut them to fit,but have the correct bends and are reasonably priced.

The right side hose will be a little harder, but consists of cutting the pipe under the car, rotating the bend roughly 90 degrees, and routing the hose up the firewall just on the outside of the Belt. I will post pics of this when I’m finished later this week.

Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified, see SCC’s how to install a V6 for the most simple solution.

**Pete94t**

IF you don’t want cruise, you can re-route the main line under the car to the driver’s side and it’s the perfect length to the throttle body, with no junction boxes the pedal feel is better.

**Edit**

This works well, I have this done on my Yellow 91.

**Chall**
Technically speaking, the solara/camry transmission is the E351, not the E153, and I think this denotes the difference in drive gear ratios and final drive. Also, the synchros are much better than in the ’91-’93 turbo transmission. If you have the turbo transmission it will work, but you run out of first gear more quickly. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. this lets you get rid of the speedo cable, which removes one of the major hassles of taking the MR2 guage cluster out. Of course, you will need the linkage from an MR2 transmission and also need to drill a hole to use this linkage on the solara tranny–easy to do.

The half shafts are turbo on the driver’s side, and solara on the passenger side only because there is a 1/8″ or 3mm*** difference in the carrier bearing position. Turbo shafts will fit nicely in the solara transmission. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. It is impossible to combine the two shafts to make one as the type of CV joint on the solara shaft is enclosed and the diameter of the shaft in the CV joint is smaller.

Personally, I think that the passenger side mount for the engine should be abandoned altogether because you cannont add the supercharger and you will definitely want to add the supercharger. Front and rear engine mounts are not hard to fabricate and I have autocad diagrams of one design, but not the only design by any means.

–I have lowered my compression ratio by using 8.5:1 JE pistons and Eagle 22R rods but the rods take machining to thin them for the 1MZ (by .135 per side) and they are about .012 different in their C-C. But you can get them on Ebay and they are an initial $350 investment plus whatever it costs in your area to machine them. When and if you order pistons, let them know so that you can get pistons with the piston pin positon correct.

–I would use the 1MZ alternator. What Luke and I did was to attach the wires to the alternator using simple electrical connections and pouring epoxy around the connections so that now we have an alternator that has the long wires attached.

Claire

*** Edit by Brad, Original was 1cm

**Chall**
If I am understanding correctly, you are asking whether the turbo transmission without LSD uses the same axles as the LSD E153 and the Solara 351. I put a Toyota MR2 LSD into a Camry 5 speed (year 2000) and it uses the MR2 axles that I had machined to move the carrier bearing retainer groove. Of course, the differential defines which axles are used in these transaxles, so using an MR2 LSD (which fits exactly) guarantees that the turbo axles will work.

I don’t have succesful experience with mixing axles. I tried it but perhaps I used a too new axle to try to change the intermediate shaft, as the newer axles from the Solara/Camry are entirely different from the ’90/’95 US MR2 axles. It cost me $50 to have the turbo axle machined, and I thing that was kind of a rip-off.

Here is what I think about the swap:

–Not much needs to be done to the 1MZ-FE itself unless you are going to more than 4 PSI of boost. Derek has found that the return fuel system from other engines works well, or you can simply drill and tap both ends of the fuel rail and make a U-shape out of it to make a return system.

–You can use the stock Solara/Camry ECU, auto or manual, with the wiring diagrams that Luke worked out.

–I would abandon the passenger mount and make front and rear engine mounts for the 1MZ-FE so that you can supercharge later.

–I would abandon the turbo/NA water system after the main pipes beneath the gas tank, and connect more directly with a couple of pipe bends.

–I would get rid of the brake booster line across the firewall.

–I would move the oil filter with a remote kit.

–I would have the passenger axle machined.

–If you want A/C, have the MR2 lines tig welded to the 1MZ-FE lines. There may be much better solutions; I don’t know.

–You can direct connect the cruise control to the throttle and the throttle body very simply, but you have to move the throttle cable to the drivers’ side.

–I prefer the ratios of the Camry/Solara transmission E351 over those of the MR2 E153.

Overall, this is a simple process and should not take long if you prepare for it.

**SBCelicaGT**

1MZFE engine debuted in 1992. in 1997 it was updated with among other small changes, a returnless fuel system. later on it had VVTi as an option. all 3 generations of engine are aluminum. the 92-96 return fuel rails will bolt to the gen2 engines. or you can make your own returnless fuel system and it doesnt require any drilling or tapping.

axles: all the solara/avalon/sienna/ etc. axles I have seen arent rebuildable. I.E. they dont have the bolts in the middle to attach the inner and outer sections.

the mr2 turbo inner axles work just fine with the Solara tranny. the only mod you need to do is to slot the carrier bearing mount ever so slightly as it will be off by a few millimeters. For the celicas, you can then bolt outer alltrac axles to the inner turbo axles. for you mr2 guys, you can just use the whole turbo axles.

ecu: auto tranny ecu will work but you will have ECU codes till you find a way to fool the ECU into thinking there is an A/T in your engine bay by way of wiring resistors to the ends of the solonoid plug. Easy fix.

Eagle rods for the 22R will work. You will need to do the following:

If you sit the stock C50/52 next to the C56, you can easily see what needs to be done to the new tranny. The red circled area is a point of concern on the newer C56s (Blacktop). It doesn’t have a ‘flange’ at the end of the gear selector shaft housing. None of the Silvertop C56s are known to be like this. It will take a bit of machining to do this job correctly. If this part of your C56 looks like the C52, the conversion will be much simpler.

C50/C52 MR2	C56 Silvertop	C56 Blacktop

In either case, you will need to purchase a new selector shaft oil seal from Toyota. I forget how much it was, but was under $10 I’m sure.

Part #: 90311-15003

1) Start by removing the slave cylinder lines and brackets, as well as the engine mounts on both transmissions. Remove the gear selector linkage mounted to the trannies.

2) Now have the tranny in the neutral position. Twist the shaft into the middle position and push or pull it to the middle position.

On the C52, Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the end plate in place (red). Also remove the 14mm bolt that aligns the shaft (blue). Pull out the end plate, you will be reusing it on the C56.

On the C56, Remove the four 14mm bolts holding the shaft in place. As well as the bolt on top of the housing. These bolts are in the same place as the above pictured C52. Slide the selector shaft out. The C56 is now ready for the conversion.

3) Now, on the C52 remove the 12mm nut on the pin holding the lever to the shaft. Take a hammer to the end of the pin to nudge it out. Remove the dust boot from the tranny oil seal. Then the handle should easily come off the shaft.

4) Now, push the shaft out toward the endplate side. May need a nudge from the palm of your hand. You will be reusing this shaft in the C56.

5) In order for the shaft to fit through the C56 you need to drill a hole on the opposite end of the shaft housing. Measure the proper point to drill the hole.

Here’s what it looks like on the Blacktop C56:

Here’s the Silvertop C56:

6) Drill a pilot hole with a small drill bit. Make sure to be parallel with the shaft housing. Turn the tranny so that the housing is on the bottom. This insures that few shavings will enter the transmission gears. You may also want to stuff something inside the other end to collect any other shavings.

7) For the older C56 transmission, increase the size of the hole so that the new oil seal can be pressed in. I’m not sure of it’s size, so you’ll need to measure it yourself. The seal is a press fit, so make sure the size of the hole is smaller than the seal. Tap the seal in place with a mallet making sure it goes in square.

Clean up as much of the fillings inside the housing as you can. Goto Step 10.

For the newer C56, increase your bit size until the shaft fits. My selector shaft was just over 1/2″ wide. So I ended up using a 1/2″ bit and then a smaller one to ream it just a bit. Smooth with very fine grit sand paper. You will most likely need to make this hole larger later on, for the oil seal adapter that you need to make.

9) Here’s a diagram of a possible oil seal, courtesy of Bill Strong:

And here’s what mine ended up looking like after having a friend machine it out of SS stock. Go here for a lot more pics.

10) Once you have the seal pressed in, fit the shaft through the endplate side. It may take a little fidgeting to get the pieces on the shaft to line up properly with the forks inside. Slide the dust boot in place. Replace the lever and bolt and the endplate. Benchtest your new linkage and you are ready to put everything back on and remount the tranny.

Here’s a pic of the lock assembly:

1) Turn the assembly on end and remove the cam’s E-clip. (sorry for the blurry pic)

Here’s the cam removed:

2) Now, simply remove the protective rubber boot.

3) Here comes the part where you have to watch out with tiny pieces falling out. Remove the cap, by simply prying up on the bottom edges.

4) Remove the cover by gently prying on the 2 tabs. The flap & flap spring may fall out. If not, remove them.

5) Now, you need to disconnect the cam extension from the cylinder. Do that by removing the E-clip holding them together.

6) Slide out the extension

And slide out the cylinder.

7) If you have the old cylinder from the 85/86 you can just simply reuse it. You can skip the rest of these steps and just reassemble the opposite of removal.

Since you can’t/don’t want to reuse the old one, you just need to rekey the cylinder. Insert the key you will be using into the cylinder. You will notice that a few (all?) of the wafers do not line up with the edge of the cylinder (shear line).

Make note of which do not line up. Remove the key, and gently remove those wafers. They will simply lift out by your fingers. You may need to insert a small screwdriver from the bottom to help push them out.

Be careful of the springs and ball bearings that are hidden underneath the wafers. They should stay in place with the wafers removed.

9) Exchange positions of the wafers that do not line up. And by trial and error with inserting the key, you should be able to come up with a pattern that allows the wafers to line up perfectly with the cylinder.

In my case, I ended up having one wafer that would never line up. So I simply just removed it from the cylinder all together.

Before putting everything back together. Clean up the old dried up grease, and apply fresh grease to the parts.

10) Asssembly is opposite of the removal. Be careful of lining up the flap spring, flap, and cover.

All you need to upgrade your 85/86 to the bigger 87+ rotors are the rotors themselves and the caliper mounting brackets. If you want to go all out for this upgrade, you will need the dust shields from the 87+. You’ll need new brake pads too, since you are using new rotors. Any year brake pads will work, they are all the same.

*Note: You will probably notice that I mixmatched front and rear pics throughout this writeup. I’m not trying to confuse you, it’s just the best pics I had when I threw this page together.

1) First off, put the car on jackstands, and remove the wheel.

2) Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the caliper to it’s mounting bracket. Slide the caliper out of the way and secure it in place so as not to bind or put pressure on the brake line.

3) Remove the two 17mm bolts circled below holding the mounting bracket to the hub. (Ignore the fact that the strut assembly is removed from the hub, you don’t have to do that.) Remove the mounting bracket and brake pads off from the rotor.

4) Remove the rotor from the hub. It should just wiggle right off, but it could be stuck on there good. You may need to get two bolts the proper size to push the rotor off the hub.

5) Now you need to decide what to do with the dust shield. There’s 3 possibilities, each involve snipping off part of the shield:

• Replace it with the larger 87+ dust shield
• Cut/Trim it to fit the rotor
• Remove it completely

“Can’t be done. The tabs where the axle carrier (hub) mount to the struts on 85-86 are too thin to accommodate the wider 87+ hub assy. And larger bolts are used on the 87+, as well. You’d have to shave down the edge of the hub and drill the holes in the strut to do this. Ah…so I’ll just change the entire strut assembly…solves that problem, right?

“Next problem…the big metal pieces that the strut arm and control arm bolt to (that are bolted on right behind the engine compartment) are different. No problem…I’ll just shorten the control arm by using the 87+ arm and thereby account for the fact that the 87+ axle assembly’s control arm mounting point sticks out farther. Wrong. The angle is too steep and you end up with an amazing amount of rear wheel toe-in. )…

“Okay…so those damn mounting blocks need to be swapped, too. Wrong. The mounting holes on the frame are in different spots between 86 and 87+. Only one really lines up and without significant modification, those 87+ blocks simply won’t bolt on. Even IF you managed to do all this, remember to swap your ball joints while you’re at it. The mounting bolts for the 87+ are much larger and the 86 ball joints won’t bolt up. “

• Remove the three bolts holding the dust shield on the 87+ assy.
• Cut a wedge out of the bottom of the dust shield wide enough that you can wiggle it free of the hub assy.
• Remove the 85-86 hub the same way.
• Slide the 87+ shield on the 85-86 hub.
• Note points of interference, especially where the strut arm mounts up.
• Cut away material or bend as necessary to make the shield work.

Remove the 3 torx bolts. Just use a 10mm socket to remove them. Here’s a pic of the bolts, there’s a third one on the opposite side as well. You have to go at these at an angle, becuase the hub is in the way. It also took a pair of pliers on the nut driver to get these loose.

Now the dust shield should be loose. However, you can’t just pull it off over the hub. So you need to cut a slot in it so you can. Do that in the spot below with a dremel or rotozip type tool.

I ended up having to cut off more than indicated above, since the metal was not as flexible as I thought. Used the side-cutting bit on a Rotozip. Here’s the dust shields off, to show you how much you need to cut off.