Complete service manual instructions can be found here.  The MR2 has four drain plugs, one in the radiator, two in the piping underneath the car, and one in the engine block.  When I drain the coolant, I just remove the drain plug from the radiator, and let it drain.  Then I take a shop vac, and put the hose end into the filer neck in the engine compartment where the radiator cap goes.  I put the vac on reverse (blow) and blow the rest of the coolant out.  This seems to work well at removing the coolant.  I then siphon out the coolant from the overflow bottle.

Bleeding:

The car must be level for the bleeding to work correctly.  My garage floor is not level, but I can use a jack to jack up either the front or rear of the car to make the car level.  To bleed the cooling system, there are two bleeder valves that need to be opened.  They are both located in the front trunk.  One is on the radiator (driver’s side), and the other is on the heater core.  After removing the plastic covers, the radiator bleeder can be seen.

The heater core bleeder is shown in the following pictures.

Next up is to connect some clear hoses to each of the air bleeder valves.  The hose I use for the radiator air drain doesn’t fit quite right, so I use a worm drive clamp on the end of it to make a good seal.

The hoses have to be hung, in some manner, so that they are higher than the filler neck.

The valves can now be opened.  The radiator valve can be opened by hand, and the heater valve can be opened with a large flat screwdriver.  Both of them have to be opened about three turns for air to start to bleed through.  Coolant is added in the engine compartment filler (where the radiator cap goes), and is added until it starts to show up in the clear hoses up front.  Once all the air is removed (which can take some time), install the radiator cap until the first click.  It should still feel loose.  Start the engine and run it at varying RPMs (from 2000RPM to 3000RPM) with the heater all the way at hot for about 2 to 3 minutes.  By varying the RPM, hopefully, the air bubbles will be coaxed into moving to the higher location.  I’m not sure if leaving the air vents open during this stage, or closing them results in a better bleed – I’ve tried it both ways with success.  Re-open the radiator cap and add more coolant.  If you’ve closed the air bleeders, reopen them and check if more air is released.  If so, keep doing this until all the air is bled out.  The service manual just says to repeat these steps, but it’s a good idea to let the engine coolant cool down some between runs.  You may want to close everything up (leave the cap on the first click) and go for a very short drive, to try to jostle the air bubbles to the highest location, and then allow it to cool, and add more coolant.  Once all the air is out, fill the overflow bottle, and place the radiator cap on tightly.  You may want to fill the overflow slightly higher than the full line as excess coolant will just blow out anyway.  This would also be a good time to check the line running from the radiator cap to the overflow, and be sure it is clear/clean.
The overflow bottle can be cleaned without removing it.  I just fill it up with a degreaser (simple green / castrol / whatever), and water.  Let it soak, and then suck out the contents with a wet/dry vac.  Then rinse (or rinse&suck) a good number of times with clean water.  I do the same with the intercooler.
The following picture shows coolant in the air bleed hoses while filling.

An overview video of the water injection setup is here (WMV format 8MB) – it’s a little nerdy – but all in good fun!
Video of each of the nozzles spraying inside the throttle body is here (WMV format 4.7MB – MPG format 19.6MB) and another of both spraying is here (WMV format 1.5MB – MPG format 6MPG).  In the first video one can here the Shurflow pump turn on for a few seconds to re-pressurize the accumulator at two points during the video.

Update (12/16/2002) – new Nozzle size.

I’ve switched the two mcmaster car nozzles from a 3GPH and 5GPH, to a 5GPH and 10GPH for a total 15GPH or 946cc/min.  This is not the actual flow, however, since I’m running almost 20psi of boost, and the water pressure fluctuates between 70 and 100psi.  So at 70psi of water pressure, and 20psi of boost, the actual pressure is 50psi.  The shurflow pump is adjustable, and I want to try to change it so that it will turn off at 100psi like it already does, but come back on at around 85-90psi.
Using the formula   where F represents flow and P represents pressure, one can calculate the flow difference.  In this case the nozzles should flow 15GPH at 100psi, so at 50psi, the actual flow is 10.6GPH or 668.75cc/min.  At 80psi the actual flow is13.4GPH or 845cc/min.  So, with the current setup the water flow can range from 30.4% of fuel flow to 38.4% fuel flow, assuming the 550cc/min injectors are static open.
The 3SGTE runs great with this setup – nice and smooth.  The previous day (about 40degrees outside) I was doing some tests and the ECU went into the bad gas mode (see TVIS document).  So, I thought it would be a good idea to raise the amount of water injected.  So far, it’s running great – same boost, same outside temperature, no bad gas mode.
It’s possible that it went into bad gas mode when the water pressure was at its lowest – that coupled with the low outside air temperature.

New Version 2.0 Water Injection!

The new version of my water injection setup uses the following components:

• Shurflow 100psi pump
• Shurflow accumulator
• 2 150psi Solenoid valves
• 2 pressure switches
• Water pressure gauge
• Mini mister nozzles from http://www.mcmaster.com
• Tank with level sensor from junk yard (Oldsmobile)
• LEDs to indicate pump on, solenoid 1 on, solenoid 2 on, and low water in tank

The Shurflow pump has an internal regulator set to 100psi.  The pump is therefore supplied with +12 volts at any time the ignition switch is turned on.  The two solenoids are controlled by the two pressure switches T’d into the intake manifold (boost pressure).  The solenoids and pressure switches were purchased from http://www.poweraire.com.  Total cost for the setup was approximately $30 per solenoid, $40 for accumulator, $80 for pump, $20 per pressure switch, $10 for the gauge from Lowes hardware, $10.00 for the nozzles, $30 for various fittings, hose etc, and about $15.00 for wiring, LEDs, fuse and so forth – so a total of ~$275.00 not including shipping.  The current nozzles are a 3 gallon per hour (first solenoid) and a 5GPH (2nd solenoid) nozzle for a total of 8GPH or 504cc/min at 100psi.  The current tank can hold about 1 gallon of water, so the setup can support full boost for 6 minutes.  The pressure from the setup varies from 60psi (where the pump turns on) to 100psi (where the pump turns off).  By using an accumulator, the pump runs very infrequently.  During ‘normal’ commuting of 50miles a day, I see the pump come on about 2 times.  It takes a good while for the pressure to drop from 100psi down to 60 where the pump turns on.  Once the pump turns on, the pressure builds very quickly from 60psi to 100psi; about 2.5 seconds.
I’m currently running 19.2psi of boost with this setup, and the ECU seems happy so far (no knock mode).  Personal best 0-60MPH time is 4.8 seconds.

Future
Currently there is no more intercooler mister, as I wanted to keep the hoses going from the solenoids to the throttle body nozzles as short as possible.  By keeping these lines short, there is minimal dripping after the solenoid closes.  It also ensures that when the solenoid opens, water will flow immediately.  I’m planning on adding an additional solenoid and nozzles to mist the intercooler and possibly the front radiator under high boost conditions.

Current Measured Performance
My most recent run with the GTech performance meter shows 258HP running 19.2 psi.
More pictures on the MR2 picture page.

Old version 1.0 Water Injection

I’ve finished putting together and installing my own water injection setup.  It uses a pressure tank that contains a water bladder.  The tank is 2 gallons.  I fill the water bladder with one gallon of water, and then pressurize the tank with an air compressor to 100psi.  The setup uses two pressure switches to control two misting water nozzles (mcmaster car mini-mister nozzles).  The first nozzles comes on at 5psi and sprays water onto the outside of the intercooler.  The second nozzle comes on at 10psi – currently using 189cc/min nozzle at 100psi, and injects right before the throttle plate.  The pressurized water is controlled via two solenoid valves.  This allows the not only a fail-safe for the throttle body injector (in case one solenoid fails), but also permits the use of a second nozzle for the intercooler mister.
Advantages:
No Pump – no pump delay – injection starts immediately.
Doubles as intercooler mister.
High pressure – excellent atomization (at 40-100psi).
Turn on pressure easily adjustable via adjustable switches.
Able to run with denatured alcohol.
Disadvantages:
Filling the tank is somewhat cumbersome, but not too bad.  Have to drain air out, open valve, and gravity feed the tank occasionally letting excess air out.  After filling – close the valve, and pressurize via air compressor.  On a two gallon tank, with one gallon water, and one gallon 100psi air, after all water has been used, pressure will have dropped to 50psi.  The user can just re-pressurize the tank – but that leads to – Knowing how full the tank is.  I’m still working on this one – can use pressure reading to see how full, but would be nice to use an additional pressure switch to turn on an LED when the tank is empty.
ObservationsWater injection really does work – I’ve noticed at least a 100 degree drop in EGTs, and I can run more boost without the ECU going into the bad gas mode.  This can be observed via two LEDs connected to the turbo VSV, and the TVIS ports on the ECU.  When the ECU goes into the bad gas (knock) mode, it will open the TVIS valves under any throttle position other than closed, and the ignition timing seems to be severely retarded.  Since I changed the headgasket (and had the head resurfaced) the ECU has been going into this mode under moderate (14.2psi) with PT upgraded 50 trim turbo – I believe this is due to increased compression.  I’ve been able to run 15.6 psi with water injection without problems, and also tried 17.1psi briefly without issues.  I did some GTech runs with and without water injection, and also with a 50/50 mixture of water and denatured alcohol – results are averaged:
Just distilled water:
14.2 psi without 225
14.2psi with 222
15.6psi with water 242.
50/50 mixture of distilled water and denatured alcohol:
14.2psi – 225
15.6psi – 235
17.1psi – 242.
I attribute the lower numbers with the alcohol to the engine running too rich – but that’s just a guess.
I also did a my personal best 0-60MPH time with distilled water at 15.6psi – 5.22seconds.
More pictures are on the pictures page.
Oh – BTW – the nozzle for the intercooler is 315cc/min.  So one gallon of water will last about 7.5minutes – course that would be under boost conditions – with just the throttle body water injector it would last 20 minutes.

I’ve been waiting till its time to change my oil again to replace the oil cooler hoses, as these guys have been leaking for some time. I decided to replace them with Aeroquip Stainless Steel Braided hoses, since the price difference isn’t all that much, and maybe it could help in the cooling of the oil, since these hoses run so close to the exhaust manifold. But 3′ of regular oil cooler hoses from Autozone can be used for $3 total. The 2 hoses you need to replace are 16″ and 20″ long, with 3/8″ Inside Diameter (or -6AN).

Here’s the 3 feet of hose I ordered from Summit Racing for $15 + shipping, part #AER-FCA0603

I also ordered new copper crush washers for the banjo bolts from the local Toyota dealer, about $4 total. They are circled in red in the below pic (the green ovals representing the hoses I am to replace). I also purchased new worm gear clamps at local Autozone (smallest size they had, range: 7/32″-5/8″)

Washer Part #s: 90430-12018 & 90430-14235 (need 2 of each)

And since I’m up in this area working, I went ahead and replaced the o-rings that go between the oil filter, oil filter sandwich, and the block. Go here for that write-up. And I also dropped the oil pan to replace its gasket. I would suggest at least doing the oil filter gaskets at the same time as doing the oil cooler lines.

Parts:

• 3′ of 3/8″ ID oil cooler lines, $3 for regular rubber hose, $15 for braided stainless
• Copper Crush washers, $4
• Hose Clamps, $1

Removal:

1) Jack up rear of car and support on jack stands.

First off, drain out as much old coolant as you can. Jack up the back of the car higher than the front, remove the front-most underbody cover (seven 10mm bolts), and remove either the drain bolts shown here, or use the draincock on the bottom of the radiator. I chose to use these 2 drain bolts, because my radiator draincock was plugged. Make sure to remove the radiator cap and also loosen the drain cock on the top of the radiator. This will allow air to vent into the pipes, allowing the coolant to drain out easier.

Here’s what came out. Nice and brown huh? They say this is from mixing the Toyota red coolant with the typical Prestone green stuff. Make sure to dispose of this stuff properly. Ya wouldn’t want to kill any of your neighbors pets now would ya???

Flushing the coolant system

Here’s what I found to be the simplest for me. There are a few other ways to do this, e.g. using the radiator drain cock. But the drain cock on mine is plugged, so that didn’t work.

1) Remove the drain bolt on the coolant pipe going from the radiator cap to the radiator, the red circled one below (leave the other bolt on, unlike the below pic). Then without the car running, the rear of the car higher than the front, place a garden hose at the radiator cap, and begin running water through. Run the water through, until it becomes clear. Of course this may take a few pan-fulls. So watch the level of the pan closely. A second person to run the hose while you monitor the pan during this entire process helps tremendously. Be prepared to get your hands dirty when placing the bolt back on as it is still draining out and your pan is full. Replace the bolt when done.

2) Next up is flushing out the radiator. (This can get messy, and it is possible to skip this step if you don’t want to clean up after yourself) Remove both upper and lower hoses on the radiator, by moving the spring clips. Then place the garden hose into the upper hole in the radiator, draining the water out of the lower one. Flush it until clear water comes through, and then replace the hoses.

3) Now, use the drain bolt on the coolant pipe, that leads to the thermostat (red circle, leave the other bolt on, unlike shown in the below pic). Run the garden hose from the radiator cap flushing out the system from the radiator cap, up through the radiator and back halfway under the car. Again, once it turns clear you’re done with this step. Replace bolt.

4) Now for the engine block and the rest of the way up this pipe. Make sure all coolant bolts and hoses you removed before are securely fastened. Fill up the system with water from the garden hose, until it’s full in the radiator cap. Start up the car, with the heater control set to hot (no need to turn the fan on). Monitor the level in the radiator cap to keep it topped off. Once you see the water start to bubble over, place the radiator cap on halfway (to the first click). When the car approaches normal operating temperature, it is time to remove one of the coolant pipe drain bolts. (mine was about 2/3 the way up to normal operating temp when I undid the bolt) Have the person that is running the hose, be ready for when you remove the bolt, you would like to keep the coolant level topped off. Be very, very careful when undoing the bolt. The coolant will be hot and it will come out of the hole fairly quickly. I’d suggest wearing a good set of gloves when doing this. Just make sure not to drop the bolt in the pan. When the pan is almost full, replace the bolt. Again this will be messy, and the coolant coming out of the hole will be hot. Empty the pan and keep the garden hose running to top off the level. Once the pan is empty, position it again and undo the bolt, repeating this entire process till the water is clear. After a few times, the coolant cools down from the constant running of the garden hose water running through. So it becomes less painful…

Now repeat this process again, but with the other bolt on the coolant pipe. It won’t take near as long doing this one. Keep the car running during this entire process, making sure to keep the coolant level topped off.

Here’s a pic of the first night of flushing the system, over 8.5 gallons. About 2.5gallons came from draining the car initially (I ran out of containers). This was the morning after, before taking the containers to empty at the local recycling center. Once you notice that the coolant is starting to thin out it is probably safe to dump in your yard. Don’t quote me on that, save the environment…

5) When you are satisfied with the color of the water coming out of the coolant pipe, turn the car & garden hose off, and drain as much of the water out as you can. Then start filling the system with the Toyota coolant. Follow the repair manual for the filling procedure. Below is just a pic of the Toyota coolant mixed with water, 50/50.

Note: You may want to change out your timing belt when doing the water pump (and vice versa), as removing the timing belt is only a few bolts away. (Albeit one of those bolts is the crank pulley’s which can be a bear to get loose.) However, I chose not to do this, as mine was just done 30k miles ago. Believe me, the timing belt does get in the way, especially when installing the new pump, but it is definitely doable without removing the timing belt.

Here’s a couple pics of the new pump part #16100-19115:

Here’s what else I bought for this project (2gal Toyota coolant, Prestone Super Flush, Permatex Ultra Copper & Permatex Water pump and Thermostat Housing Gasket Maker). Not pictured, I also purchased new alternator and AC belts, since you need to remove these too.

Draining the old fluid:

First off, drain out as much old coolant as you can. Jack up the back of the car higher than the front, remove the front-most underbody cover (seven 10mm bolts), and remove either the drain bolts shown here, or use the draincock on the bottom of the radiator. I chose to use these 2 drain bolts, because my radiator draincock was plugged. Make sure to remove the radiator cap and also loosen the drain cock on the top of the radiator. This will allow air to vent into the pipes, allowing the coolant to drain out easier.

Here’s what came out. Nice and brown huh? They say this is from mixing the Toyota red coolant with the typical Prestone green stuff. Make sure to dispose of this stuff properly. Ya wouldn’t want to kill any of your neighbors pets now would ya???

You can chose one of two routes here. Either flush out the system now, or go ahead and change out the pump. I decided to change out the pump next. Here’s how to go about that:

Removal of old water pump

1) Remove the 2 hoses circled below and remove the coolant reservoir by pulling it straight up.

2) To give you ‘plenty’ of room to get to the water pump, remove the radiator cap mounting tube. Do this by removing the spring clips (shown in the square box on the right and pointed to by the red arrow) clamping the hose to this plastic tube. Remove the two 10mm bolts shown in the green circles. Then remove the hose going from the radiator cap to the engine, by removing the spring cliip contained in the left red square.

Here’s the result of the above removal. You can start to see the water pump now…

And here’s the parts that you just removed:

3) Now, disconnect the 3 different wires (black, green, and blue connectors) that will be in your way and tuck them away someplace..

4) The next thing you should do is loosen (not remove) the water pump pulley bolts (four 10mm bolts shown in the red square). This is alot easier to do while the belt is still in place.

To get to all the bolts on the pump pulley you will have to turn the crank pulley. Do this by using a 17mm socket on the below circled bolt. To make this easier to turn it’s best to remove the spark plugs. (I didn’t do this however…) You have to remove the bottom engine cover (about seven 10mm bolts) to get to this easier.

4) Remove the alternator and it’s adjustor bracket. If you have not done this before, refer to my alternator write-up for the removal process. (some of the below steps show the alternator in the pics still. I didn’t remove it till I had to, but I would recommend doing it now.

5) Remove the water pump pulley bolts that you loosened earlier and remove the pulley.

6) Remove the ‘coolant inlet housing’ located in the red square box (two 10mm bolts from the front and one 10mm bolt that needs to be removed from under the car).

7) Remove timing belt cover #3. Here’s a pics of the cover removed to give you an idea of where all the 10mm bolts are located.

Here’s a pic of the timing belt cover #3 removed.

If you have AC, remove the AC idle pulley. The below picture already has the belts off but it should give you an idea of where the pulley is located, between and above the crank and AC pulleys. Use a 14mm box end wrench to remove the nut from the pulley.

The red circle below shows where the 15mm bolt (it’s a real long one) that holds the idle pulley bolt in place. Remove this bolt. The idle pulley should now be free, so remove it and the two belts.

Here’s the idle pulley after removal:

9) There are only 2 bolts holding timing cover #2 on, since #3 is out. Get to them from below the car, and here are pics of where they are located:

Here’s the one near the rear of the car, 10mm. (Ignore the fact that the new water pump is already in, I took the pics out of order.)

And here’s the one on the other side of the crank. It’s right behind the idle pulley bracket and is a pain to get to. I found a 10mm offset boxed wrench to do the job (luckily I had one).

Here’s a couple pics of the two removed timing covers. The one on the right shows how they are assembled when on the car. Be careful when removing timing cover #2, as the needle on the timing belt idle pulley comes out the hole in the bottom left of the cover. It’s actually a plug that surrounds this needle, that you can remove if you want/need to.

10) Remove the water pump bolts. There are two 12mm bolts (red circles) & one 10mm bolt (green circle) that hold the complete housing to the engine block. And also there’s 4 other 10mm bolts that hold the pump to the suction cover (not circled).

Remove the oil dipstick thingy, by pulling it straight out. Make sure to cover the hole with a rag or something. Once you are sure all the bolts are off, remove the water pump portion. It may take some pressure on it to remove it. I had quite a bit of coolant leakage here when I did this, since I didn’t bother draining the engine block. So make sure to have your pan close by. (Note: Feel free to drain the engine block if you’d like to be a little neater than me. Consult the BGB for it’s location.)

11) Remove the 2 below indicated 10mm bolts, which hold the suction cover to a coolant pipe. You can then easily remove the suction cover from the engine bay.

A couple pics of the water pump removed. Nasty down there huh?

And here’s a couple of the removed water pump and suction cover:

Removal is now complete.

Installation of Water Pump

1) Time to clean everything up (via Simple Green, WD40 & Carb Cleaner) and organize all the parts. Here’s what all you should have:

2) Permatex the 2 o-rings on the suction cover (update: ended up not using the o-ring on the left side of this picture, I just permatex’d the crap out of it.)

Note: If you have removed the timing belt it is not necessary to put the suction cover and water pump on separately. You can bolt the 2 together, and then bolt the assembly to the block.

3) Loosen the coolant pipe by removing the 10 or 12mm bolt shown here, that leads from the suction cover to the thermostat housing:

4) Very carefully, place the suction cover onto the block and into this pipe. Make sure that the o-ring that attaches to the block didn’t shift on you and that you still have some permatex back there. Secure (don’t tighten) the cover to the coolant pipe, either from up top….

or below:

5) Permatex the crap out of the water pump:

6) Very carefully, again, place the pump over the suction cover. Secure the pump to the cover by using a couple of the 10mm bolts to hold them together. Then line up the assembly with the block, and bolt it down with the 10mm (the longest one) and the 12mm bolts. (Note: The 10mm bolt for the assembly is for the uppermost hole.) Tighten down everything securely, according to the torque specs in the BGB, 9 & 11 ft-lbs I believe.

Also, don’t forget to install the oil dipstick guide, since it attaches to the water pump. Put a lil RTV on its gasket.

7) At this point I would suggest to reinstall the coolant inlet housing onto the engine and then taking a break. This way after a couple hours of letting the RTV cure, you can check the water pump for leaks by simply filling the system with water. If you notice any leaks from simply filling it up, you will not have wasted time putting everything else back together. Use the new o-ring and gasket that came with the pump assembly when installing the inlet housing. Also, use some RTV on the surfaces.

Once you are sure that the pump isn’t leaking, you may continue putting everything back on. Start with timing cover #2. Again, here are the 2 bolts that need to be replaced:

9) Next up is the AC idle pulley. Insert the bolt and it’s washer (circled):

And then the pulley, ‘big’ washer, and the nut. Tighten the nut down until the pulley is secure, and then make sure the hole in the bolt head is aligned with the hole in the top of the bracket.

The red-circled hole.

Then, thread the long 15mm bolt through the idle pulley bolt. No need to tighten it down fully, just get the threads so they atleast pass all the way through the bolt head.

10) Next, install the water pump pulley and bolts. Don’t worry about tightening the bolts for now.

11) Install the belts. Water pump and alternator belt go on the innermost crank pulley, then AC belt. Go ahead and tighten the AC belt, by pushing the idle pulley up while under the car. You may need to loosen the nut a little. I tried prying the pulley up with a big screwdriver, but the best method I found was just by pushing it up with your free hand, and then tightening the nut down with your other hand. Use one of them belt tensioner gauges (or index finger) to make sure the belt isn’t too loose or too tight. Get out from under the car, and tighten down the AC idle pulley bolt (the long 15mm one).

12) Install the water inlet housing with new gaskets.

12) Re-install alternator. In the below pic, the above mentioned AC idle pulley bolt is shown in the red square. The green arrow is pointing to the alternator of course. If you need assistance with the alternator refer to my alternator write-up.

13) Reinstall Timing cover #3. Again, here’s a picture of it uninstalled so u can figure out where all the bolts are located. The one in the bottom middle is the toughest to get to.

14) Reinstall radiator cap hardware and hose. Don’t forget to reconnect those 3 wire connectors. Also ground the yellow/black wire onto the body through one of the green circled bolts.

15) And finally, the coolant reservoir:

Tools needed:

• Various sockets and wrenches
• Screwdriver
• Rebuild kit ~$20(Toyota part # 04479-32011)
• Air compressor (to remove caliper piston)
• Denatured alcohol or brake fluid to clean parts

Front Removal

Here’s the front rebuild kit, about $15 from local auto parts store.

1) Loosen lugnuts, raise and support front of vehicle. Remove lugnuts and wheel.

2) Drain the brake fluid pressure from the bleed valve on the caliper. Place a hose over the valve and use an 8mm wrench to loosen the valve.

3) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to it’s mounting bracket.

4) Remove the 14mm banjo bolt holding the brake line to the caliper. Expect some brake fluid to leak through.

5) Here’s some pics of the caliper removed.

6) Push the slider out one side of the caliepr. I just used a pair of pliers as shown below to do this.

7) It should pop loose, then you can pull it the rest of the way out

Remove the 2 rubber dust boots.

9) Inside the caliper, you will see a collar. Remove this.

10) Do the same for the other sliders, and here’s the parts you will have removed.

11) Use a small screwdriver to pry out the piston set ring.

12) Pull out the piston boot.

13) Remove the piston from the cylinder with compressed air connected to the banjo bolt hole. Tighten the bleeder valve and make sure to place a block of wood or a rag inside the caliper, so that when the piston pops out it is not damaged. And believe me it will POP.

14) Pry out the piston o-ring with a small screwdriver. Be careful not to score the cylinder walls.

15) Just a pic of the cleaned up calipers after under a brass cleaning wheel.

16) Clean the sliders and collars in denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.

17) Also, clean the inside of the cylinder and the piston with denatured alcohol or brake fluid.

Front Assembly

1) Here’s all the parts laid out:

2) Make sure everything is nice and clean. Use denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.

3) Using the grease that came with the rebuild kit, grease up the cylinder o-ring. And then place it in the cylinder.

4) Grease up the piston

5) And insert it in the cylinder. It may take some force to get it in there. But it should slide smoothly once over the seal.

6) Insert the new cylinder boot around the piston. Then insert its set ring that holds the boot in place.

7) Grease the outside of the collar and slide it into the cylinder.

Grease one of the dust boots and insert it into the cylinder. Then grease up the slider.

9) Now, here’s a little trick. Take the other boot, and place it backwards over one end of the slider.

10) Insert the end of the boot in the cylinder and slide the slider in place

11) Lock the boots in place over the ends of the slider. Repeat steps 7-11 for the other slider.

12) Reinstallation of the calipers on the car is opposite the removal. Make sure to bleed the brakes properly & thoroughly.

1) Support the front of the car on jackstands.

2) Drain the coolant out of the radiator. Either do this directly via the radiator drain, or use the draincocks in the coolant pipes running beneath the car. I chose the pipes, since my drain valve was clogged (the reason I did this repair).

3) Once you are sure the coolant has drained from the rad, disconnect the two hoses running to/from it.

4) Remove the coolant temp sensor above the bottom rad hose.

5) Remove the four 10mm bolts connecting the bottom of the rad fans to the radiator.

6) Disconnect the 2 rad fan plugs (green) and remove the 10mm bolts attaching the fans to the rad. The fans should now be loose from the radiator. However, you won’t be able to remove them from the car just yet. (If you have the car jacked up high enough you could remove them from the bottom.)

7) Remove the horn by disconnecting the plug and the 10mm mounting bolt (red). And then remove the two 10mm bolts attaching the rad to the body of the car.

The rad and it’s fans should then be loose. Remove the radiator first by pulling it straight up, then remove the fans.

9) Pics of the fans

Before taking the rad to a radiator shop, I attempted to clean it myself. After using the water hose & air compressor here’s a sample of what came out of the thing.

So I decided to have a radiator shop do the job properly. It cost $60 for them to disassemble the rad to clean & pressure test it thoroughly. They also painted it for me:

10) Installation is just the reverse of the removal. Insert the fans first if you don’t have room enough to put them in from underneath the car.

Parts:

• Tube of Permatex Ultra Copper, $3.
• New oil & oil filter

Removal:

1) Jack up rear of car and support on jackstands.

2) Drain oil.

3) Remove the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter, three 14mm bolts

4) Remove the three 14mm nuts that hold the downpipe to the exhaust manifold. These are most likely rusted on pretty good, so soak in your favorite lubricant for a few minutes.

Also remove the 19mm banjo bolt, that holds the oil cooler to the oil pan.

Just a pic of the removed exhaust piece:

5) Remove the flywheel cover, by removing the three 10mm bolts.

6) Remove the 20 million (actually 19) 10mm bolts and two 10mm nuts that hold the oil pan on. Dropping the pan may require breaking the seal loose by using a screwdriver or putty knife to work it between the baffle plate and the oil pan. Make sure you are aware that the oil pan and baffle plate cannot come off at the same time. So these need to be separated as well.

7) Remove the two 10mm bolts (green) that hold the legs of the pick-up tube to the block. Also remove the two 10mm nuts (red) that attach the pick-up tube to the oil pump.

Remove the baffle plate and you should see up into the engine block.

Installation:

9) Clean up everything real well, especially the strainer for the pick-up tube. Pay special attention to the mating surfaces of the block, baffle plate and oil pan.

10) Place RTV on the top ledge of the baffle plate:

11) Install the baffle plate, using a few bolts to temporarily hold it into place. The 2 circles indicate the studs in the block that align the baffle plate in place.

12) RTV the pick-up tube:

13) and install it, torque = 7ft-lbs.

14) RTV the oil pan (and no it’s not gobbed on as much as it seems ):

15) Install the oil pan. The couple bolts you used to temporarily hold the baffle plate in place should now be able to be removed. The RTV should hold the plate in place long enough for you to install the oil pan. Torque the bolts to spec, 4ft-lbs. Make sure to follow this, or risk breaking the bolts off. It’s also a good idea to put some rtv on the individual bolts. This is time consuming and is quite messy. You can see I did this from the below pic.

16) Install the flywheel cover (torque = 4ft-lbs), and the banjo bolt to the oil pan (torque = 18ft-lbs).

17) Reinstall the exhaust, opposite of removal.

18) Remove car from jack stands, refill with oil.

Wait a few hours before running car to give the RTV enough time to cure. Check for leaks over the next few days.

I’d say about 2 hours for this repair. Since you have to be so careful with the RTV, and having to torque all them bolts. Can also take longer if your exhaust bolts are welded on…

Part #s: 90029-20013 & 96732-31060 (need 1 of each, circled in red)

Also, the washer for the bolt that holds the oil filter sandwich to the block, circled in green, $9! list (I had to pay $4…).

Part #: 90201-19272

Parts:

• O-rings for filter adapter and sandwich, $6
• Washer for union bolt, $4
• New oil & oil filter

Removal:

1) Jack up rear of car and support on jack stands.

2) Drain oil and remove oil filter.

3) If you have AC skip to step 4.

Unfortunately, you have AC, and will need to remove the compressor to make getting to the bolts easier. I’m not terribly certain that you have to remove the compressor to do just these o-rings. Since I needed to remove the AC to do the oil cooler lines, I had the AC off already. So decide for yourself if this is necessary, when you get your hands dirty. Here are the steps to remove the compressor anyway:

Loosen the 15mm idle pulley bolt from above. (Ignore the fact that the timing cover is off, I reused a pic from a previous repair.)

Loosen the idle pulley bolt, 14mm I believe.

Now remove the four long 12mm bolts that hold the AC compressor to the engine. Before you get the last bolt all the way loose, tie the compressor up, so that it does not hang by its wires and hoses.

Circled in green are 2 of the bolts. There are 2 more on top side which you can’t see. The one on the passenger side top, you need to get your rachet extension in between the 2 pipes to reach it. The compressor rests on the 2 red circled ledges.

Here’s how I tied the compressor to the AC idle pulley bracket. I then wrapped the string around the compressor, and attached the other side around the oil cooler.

4) Remove the 21mm (i think) banjo bolt for the oil cooler line, circled in blue below. Remove the 4 indicated 12mm nuts and bolts (2 each). The bolt circled in red isn’t necessary to remove, but it is 21mm I believe. (No my filter adapter was not this clean, this is a pic of the reinstall

Here it is removed.

5) Now remove the sandwich by removing the 27mm (yes 27mm!) union bolt that holds it in place:

Here’s both parts of the filter assembly

Installation:

6) Clean everything up…

And place some RTV in the groove for the o-ring and push the o-ring into place.

7) Reattach the oil filter sandwich with the 27mm union bolt. Torque to 33ft-lbs.

Take a look here, how the sandwich is to line up on the engine block. There’s a lil nub that sticks out of the block, which should fit in the hole in the sandwich. On the below pic it is installed incorrectly, and needs to be rotated clockwise slightly.

RTV the other piece, and place the new o-ring.

9) Install it onto the filter sandwich. Finger tighten the 4 green circled nuts and bolts. Then start the threads on the banjo bolt, which goes in the hole circled blue. Torque them down to specs: banjo bolt = 22ft-lbs, nuts/bolts = 14ft-lbs. Thread in the bolt cicled in red, and torque to 33ft-lbs

10) Thread on new oil filter.

11) Reinstall the AC compressor, opposite the removal procedure (torque for compressor bolts = 20ft-lbs).

12) Remove car from jack stands, and fill with oil. You may want to wait a few hours at least for the RTV to cure, before running the car. Check for any leaks over the next few days.

Doing just this repair, probably about an hour or so, add 30-45 min to that if you have AC.