Parts:
3/16 “Hanging Wire” ———————@ .23/ft – HomeDepot
1/4 Steel Round Solid Rod ———– 3′ @3.12 – HomeDepot
#6-32 x 1/4 In. Socket Set (2) Screw—- @ .52 – HomeDepot
HackSaw ——————————- @3.97 – HomeDepot
Extra Blades —————————- @2.49 – HomeDepot
#8-32 Drill Bit & Tap Set —————–@4.45 – HomeDepot

So well start with removing the throttle cable. Im not sure if these cars come more than one way, but the way my car is setup it has 2 halfs of a throttle cable. One for the pettle and the other half from a box to the throttle cable. That box has 3 cables coming out of it. One should be for the throttle, one should be for the cruise control, and one for the actual throttle body. Remove your passenger side engine cover. Under it should be the black box with the cables and a screw should be on the top of it. Remove the screw to remove the cover to gain access to the cables. After it is removed it should look like this.

Then you will remove the cable that links the throttle body to the box. You can remove the cable at the throttle body first so you have some slack to play with when removing the cable from the box. If your car is like mines the cable end will be stuck. What youll want to do now is remove the clip from the top of the shaft <<!!Becareful not to loose the washers ON TOP and UNDER the plastic pulleys!!>> Then youll want to use something slightly bigger than the opening of the barrel of the cable to brace the plastic while you tap the barrel end of the cable out.

Depending on the condition of your cable (which ill assume is not all that great, else why would u be looking at the write up) you might want to measure the cable from end to end and cut your new cable to that length <<!!the cable will untwist if not cut right!!>>. Then you’d want to cut your cable and remove it from the housing. I elected to spray some lubricant into the housing then run my new cable through the housing.

Now we’ll work on making the barrel ends. Take your rod and place one end in the pulley and line it up. Mark where you want to make your cut.

Then push the rod in further till you see the line you made ontop of the pulley. Make another mark, these will be your new barrel ends for the cable. While your there, you might want to mark the center points where the cable will sit.

You will now want to cut the two tips off of the rod at the marked points. (Thats why we bought the HackSaw). After they have been cut off <<!!CAUTION THEY WILL BE HOT!!>> Your going to want to Drill out the center of the rod and tap it with the drill and tap set. <<!!CAUTION THEY WILL BE HOT!!>>

After you’ve drilled and tapped both ends, you’ll want to drill your center hole <<!!ONLY HALFWAY THROUGH!!>>, this is what your cable will go through. (Start slow and work your way up with speed once your pilot divit has been made.) Once you’ve done that. Place your cable through the center and tighten your set screws on both sides to hold the cable in. Do this for both ends of the cable. After that is complete reinstall cable.

2.  The large white connector to the rear of the battery gets moisture. Pull apart (clean where necessary) and put it back together. This connector is associated with many electrical problems.

3.  Remove the ground strap at the top of the tranny, Clean very well. Replace. Also remove the ground connection on the same cable where it connects to the body and clean. Best bet=replace the cable.

4.  Starter electrical problems. Replace the positive cable. Most are corroded badly by now. Replace the smaller wire on the starter (ignition wire). This wire is also corroded badly and gets overheated by the exhaust. Don’t fix, replace.

5.  Remove and clean the ground wire close to the alternator. Adding additional ground straps is always a good idea.

6.  Replacing the connector for the alternator top post is a good idea. Through the years of replacing alt. the wires tend to break at the connector.

7.  The smaller wire on the battery positive cable is a fusible link. It should be replaced as age and corrosion can create all manner of problems.

8.  Rule of thumb for electrical problems=it’s the ground connection

9.  Use a volt meter on the battery. Ignition off=12v engine running=13.5 to 14v.

10.  Injector wire connectors sometimes pop off. A carefully placed dab of rtv between the connectors will hold them on.

11.  If your car doesn’t start after you washed it, there is likely water in the valley of the valve cover causing a short. Clean it out and try again.

11.1.  Do the same thing with the Distributor cap, remove, dry and put back into place.

12.  If three of your dash lights(just the engine cooling fan, charge, and brake) flash on or stay on while the car is turned on or while driving then test your alternator because it usually means it’s bad!

I took the advice to get twosrus gears, and after the gears came I took apart my doors to fix them, only to find a busted regulator gear.

I had to buy new regualtor assemblies to fix this problem. Here’s how you can tell which gear is broken without dissasembly of your doors:

1) If the window pauses for a second but continues on its own to move up or down, it is a bad motor gear. What happens is when the motor gear moves to it’s bad spot, it obviously won’t turn the regulator gear untill the motor gear spins back to where it still has teeth. Then it will re-engage the regulator gear untill it comes to the bad spot again. This will cause the window to stop for a second or 2 each time it passes the bad spot, but will continue again on it’s own.

2) If the window pauses and doesn’t resume by itself, but just makes a horrible grinding or repetitive clicking noise and you have to give it a little push or pull to resume operation, you have a bad regulator gear. What happens is the motor will spin the regulator untill it hit’s the regulator gear’s bad spot. Since there are no more usable teeth on that spot of the regulator gear, the motor gear will just keep spinning against it causing the grinding noise and the window stops moving. When this happens, you need to give the window a little help so that the busted regulator gear turns enough to re-engage with the motor gear with its remaining teeth. This scenario IS NOT REPAIRABLE with twosrus gears.

3) Another problem that can happen which will lock the window in place would either be a power failure, or the window cable gets wrapped around a piece of metal. There is normally a little plasitc piece on these metal tabs that the cable rests against so as not to get intertwined with anything. Over time, the plastic tabs can pop off or break. If this happens, the cable may slip around the metal tab that once held the plastic and jam the window. Repeated attempts to raise or lower the window in this scenario may damage your cable, causing it to start to fray or snap. If you believe this could be your problem, I would recommend removal of the door panel and checking it out to make sure the cable isn’t stuck on anything.

1) Remove the sunroof. Now you need to take the wind deflector out as one source of the rattle is here.

2) Remove the deflector c-clip (red) from the spring lever (green). Simply hold the lever with a screwdriver and push the deflector toward the front of the car. Repeat for the other side.

3) Now, you need to remove the little clips that the deflector slides on (this is actually the source of the rattling). Slide the deflector toward the back of the car, so that you can get to the front of the clips. Take a thin-bladed screwdriver to underside of the clips and pry them up with a simple twisting motion of the screwdriver.

4) Here’s just some pics of the deflector out of the car. Take this time to wipe off all the dirt that has sat all these years under the deflector.

5) Now place a piece of felt or fabric into the recesses that the sliding clips rest in, or attach them to the proper side of the sliding clips circled above.

(I just used a couple cut pieces of that material in toolboxes to keep tools from sliding around)

6) Now reinstall the wind deflector. Put the back of the sliding clip in first and then push the front of the clip down. I had to use a screwdriver to push it down in place, because of the thicker material that I used.

7) Clip back on the c-clips

The other source of potential rattles is the retaining spring and clip. You may try just lubricating it with WD40 or something similar. You can see in the first picture that the plastic had worn off, so that there is metal-on-metal contact that is causing the squeak. But I decided just to remove mine altogether.