1. Exhaust

-Silvertop

The complete 16v exhaust system can be used with the 20v silvertop. The only needed modification will be to the outermost flanges of the stock 16v header (pictures are of an ae86 header, but the bolt patern is the same)

The 20v header can also be used, but will require either a custom bpipe, or modifications to an existing 20v bpipe. The 20v silvertop header also has clearance issues with any exhaust side mounted starter. Clearance between the ST header and starter will only be a few millimeters.

The diameter of the 20v header pipes is identical to those on the 16v. The 20v header may have a slight advantage due to the use of theta plates, but dimensionally, the headers are the same or similar.

-Blacktop

The 16v header can also be used with the blacktop, but will result in power loss due to the Blacktop’s larger exhaust ports. A typical 16v header/manifold will be a bit constricting. 16v manifolds have been used with blacktops, so it is possible. Larger diameter 16v headers may be available.

For best results, use the blacktop header (or exhaust header that has the same exhaust port dimensions) when possible.

The exhaust mounted starter will not clear the larger diameter blacktop header. This will be an issue with any 1985-1987.5 20v conversions where the original c50 transmission is to be used since these transmissions lack the intake side mounting position. You really have 3 options in this situation.

a. Use the 16v setup, and take the performance hit
b. Use a later c52 transmission (or bellhousing) that does have the intake starter mounting position
c. Modify the 20v header to clear the starter.

Once again, a custom bpipe will have to be made, or an existing bpipe modified

Keep in mind that 87+ mr2’s used a larger diameter bpipe, cat, and muffler, so this is your best choice for the 20v. The 4agze equipped mr2’s used the same exhaust setup as the NA cars did.

2. Transmission

All mk1 mr2 transmission will physically bolt up to the 4age 20v. There are considerations you must make though.

-A series motors used 2 different sizes of flywheel. Early mr2’s, up till around 1986, used a 200mm flywheel. From 86 on, a 212mm flywheel was used. (200mm and 212mm pertains to the griping area of the flywheel. The actual diameter of the flywheels was the same). The 20v came with the later size flywheel, so when ordering a replacement clutch and pressureplate, just ask for a clutch kit for a 1989 mr2. If using the smaller flywheel, ask for a set from an 85 mr2. Either clutch set will be sufficient for the stock 4age 20v.
-Early c50 transmissions only had one mounting position for the starter. With this transmission, you are limited to mounting the starter on the exhaust side of the motor. These transmissions are on the 85-87.5 mr2’s. Later mr2’s had the c52 transmission. This transmission had a secondary starter mounting position on the intake side of the motor, just like the stock 20v transmissions. If you plan on using your 16v exhaust manifold, which is perfectly fine with a silvertop, you can mount the starter on either side. If you plan on using a 20v header, especially the blacktop’s, the header will not clear the exhaust mounted starter. If you must use the exhaust mounted starter in this case, the header will have to be modified for clearance.

-The c52 and c56 that comes with a 20v can also be used with modification and transferring a few parts from the original mr2 transmission, namely your mr2 selector shaft, and the entire mr2 shifter assembly. On the silvertop c52, a hole will have to be drilled for the selector shaft and the oil seal. On the C56 however, there is no casting for the oil seal. One of 3 approaches has to be taken.
-Add the additional aluminum casting, and drill as you normally would
-Fab an adapter or a makeshift casting (this has been done with JB weld, not the ideal way, but seems to be holding up in this case)
-Reuse the center transmission casing from your original mr2 transmission. This requires taking both transmissions apart

Here are some pics of the problem area:

-6speed transmissions are available for the 20v, known as the c60. Some blacktops came with a 6speed stock, although it was not a real common option. The same considerations must be made for the oil seal casting that have to be made when using a blacktop c56 5 speed. Getting a blacktop with a 6speed is usually somewhat pricey.
One other option is to use a 00+ Celica 6speed. The bellhousings are different, but can be swapped somewhat easily. All that holds the bellhousing to the central casing are the external 12mm bolts, and two 12mm bolts on the inside of the bellhousing that are attached to a reverse lockout arm. Once the external bolts are removed, the internal ones can be removed and installed through the 1-2 inch resulting gap. It’s a little bit tricky, but is much easier than taking the transmission apart. Once apart, remove the old differential bearing races and shims from the 4age bellhousing and replace them with the ones from the original 6speed bellhousing. It is very important that the differential stay with all of its original races and shims. This is the only way to keep the tension on the differential somewhat within spec. Too much or too little tension, and you will burn your differential bearings.

The celica 6speed will also require the use of 1991+ mr2 NA axles. No drilling is required since the Celica’s selector shaft is already on the correct side of the motor. Just add the mr2 selector shaft and shift assembly.

3. Cooling

The 20v does require hoses to be run differently. It is very straight forward, and one of the easiest parts of the swap. Rather than draw up a detailed explanation, here are some detailed pictures:

The rule of thumb that I use is link the driver’s side hard line that runs under the center of the car to the driver’s side water outlet on the 20v motor. Same for the passenger side. The passenger side hardline (the one with the oil cooler) goes to the water inlet on the back of the head next to the exhaust manifold. I usually try to incorporate my filler neck into this side of the cooling system. The needed hose stock can be purchased at Napa along with any flexible hoses you might want to use.

The heater hoses are also very straight forward. The 16v hoses can be used, but it is better just to buy the correct diameter tubing, and simply cut new hoses to length.

4. Throttle cable

My preferred method for dealing with the 16v cable being too short for the 20v is to simply reroute it. I drill a second hole in the fire wall about 6inches to the passenger side of the original throttle cable hole (be careful not to hit anything under the dash when you do this). I then route the cable under the dash, under the center console, behind the rear firewall and out the trunk release cable hole in the rear firewall (if you want to keep your trunk release, a second hole can be drilled). This puts the throttle cable in the perfect position with more than enough length.

5. Wiring

This is the heart of this conversion. Many 20v swaps have failed due to installers being unable to master the wiring. To make this part of the swap go more smoothly, I offer a complete plug and play solution. Here is a picture of the finished product:

It is perfectly fitted for the aw11. The air conditioning works along with the enginebay cooling fan. The 20v ecu will mount in the stock aw11 location. I test every harness on my own vehicle so that it is know to be operational and defect free before I ship it. The harness is loomed and ready to run.

The whole concept is to offer a harness that looks and fits like it was oem. Its as if you went to the Toyota dealership and ordered a stock harness, although my harness is cheaper than a dealership replacement harness. The cost is $350 and has a 100% success rate.

It’s a superior product compared to other offerings on the internet that claim to be plug and play. Competitive offerings ship mostly unloomed (ie you get a barewire harness), totally untested and have been known to contain defects. You as the end user get to sort through all the issues. Far from a hook it up in 20 minutes and turn the key proposition.

If you decide to do the wiring yourself, it is best to get an uncut 20v harness. There will be plenty to modify and change to make it work with the aw11 bodyharness, but is much easier than trying to get a cut harness to work. With a typical cut harness, you end up reconstructing a good portion of the harness. Not good if you are not pretty advanced at automotive wiring. Either way, there is a lot of soldering involved.

Here is a link to a good step by step on how to get an uncut 20v harness to work in the aw11.

http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/blac…ng/wiring.html

Swapping a 20v 4age for a 16v 4age has become a very common practice. Aside from significant performance advantages, you will be getting a newer engine typically with much lower mileage. Parts availability for the 20v has improved over the years as well. There are a number of Toyota dealerships that specialize in JDM parts. Champion Toyota comes to mind. Almost all the parts can be purchased easily and are priced like normal USDM dealership replacement parts. Considering many mr2 replacement parts have to be ordered anyway, getting 20v parts is not much more of a hassle.

The 20v conversion is a fairly easy bolt-in swap. Perfect for those looking for a high revving engine with a wonderfully broad powerband who also want stock reliability.

There are a lot of nay-sayers out there that say the 5S-FE motor is a weak non-performance economy motor and can’t handle the boost. I don’t agree with this assumption and feel that many setups are not so much limited by the motor itself but by their owner’s understanding of how it works. The 5S-FE like any other motor has it weaknesses and strengths but overall is a very sturdy platform for modification. When planning modifications to a motor, I believe it should be thought of as a series of obstacles to be overcome. As you remove one big obstacle you find yourself facing another one but in general the overall system will become more efficient. In addition, upgrading one component can overstress another that was within it’s operating limits before the upgrade. To safely build a performance motor you need to understand what the limits of your motor are so you can know how far to push the envelope and what components need to work together to get the desired result. Here are some of the limits of the 5S-FE platform as I see them.

Basic Strengths of the 5sfe:
- Solid block – High powered 500+rwhp MR2s often use these blocks.
- Stroked crank – The 5S-FE is a stroker motor from the factory. Also used in 500+rwhp MR2s.
- Displacement – 2.164 liters which is great for spooling a turbo.
- Long intake runners – Although not as good for high revs this gives the air more velocty at low RPMs for torque down low.
- 9.5:1 compression – Good for NA power and low boost power but lowers the maximum boost you can safely run.
- Fuel rail – The fuel rail on the 5S-FE is a top feed rail which is capable of supporting 850cc injectors, maybe larger

Limitations:
- 6300rpm redline – Valve springs and connecting rod bolts are not strong enough to be reliable past this.
- Short duration cams – ~220? and 8mm lift. The 3S-GTE has 236 advertised duration and 8.5mm lift.
- Small valves – 32.5mm intake and 28mm exhaust. The 3S-GTE has 33.5mm and 29mm exhaust.
- Linked intake and exhaust cams – There is a drive gear that keeps them synced so an adjustable cam gear can only be put on the intake cam and it also effects the exhaust.
- Fuel pump – Only good to ~235rwhp at stock pressure.
- 5S-FE Computer – Runs a little rich and is made for the stock NA injectors.
- Injectors – Made for max 150rwhp maybe less. 91-92 injectors are 205cc (yellow) and 93+ are 225cc (Dark green) from what I have read.
- Intake manifold – I don’t know the limits of the 5S-FE intake manifold but most people shooting for high power replace it with a custom one. If you are looking for power in a higher RPM range you will want to replace this with one that has shorter, wider runners.
- Throttlebody – I also don’t know the limits of the stock throttlebody but it is only 2″ in diameter which is a little small. If you need to move a lot more air then stock you will want something begger

What can you expect from your turbo 5S-FE?

A stock 5S-FE in good condition will easily handle boost of up to 9-10psi with as much as 180rwhp. An MR2 with a 5S-FTE is an absolute blast to drive and is a little faster then a stock turbo MR2. There is a missconception that the S54 transmision in the NA MR2 has shorter gears then an E153 turbo transmission. It is partially true but only the 4th and 5th gears are shorter. 1st through 3rd are almost identical when factoring in final drive gears. So why is a 5S-FTE MR2 faster? Because the turbo spools faster, the compression is higher and it’s a bigger engine.

A simple, bare minimum setup for a 5S-FTE includes the following:

Turbo Components
- Factory 3s-gte Turbo CT26 with wastegate actuator
- Factory 3s-gte Elbow and Primary Catalytic converter
- Factory 3s-gte Exhaust Manifold
- Factory 3s-gte Intercooler w/ fan
- Factory 3s-gte Oil Pan
- Factory 3s-gte Oil/Water Coolant Lines to and from Turbo w/oil drain hose and clamps
- Factory 3s-gte turbo to intercooler Pipe
- Custom intercooler to throttlebody pipe (mine is 2.5″ diameter)
- Factory 3s-gte Blow Off Valve with the VTV valve
- 4 MkIII Supra NA 315cc Injectors (light green top) part # 23250-70080
- 4 NGK BKR6E or BKR7E Spark Plugs (BKR7E is the colder plug for higher boost)
- Factory 3s-gte 2bar MAP Sensor part # 89420-17030
- 30 amp relay for intercooler fan
- Boost Gauge
- MSD-BTM # 5462
- MSD Tach Adapter #8910eis
- Oil and water send/return fitings (Many other ways possible or you can use JIC fittings)
Oil
- 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT male to male (For the oil feed at the head)
- 1/8 NPT female T or plus
- 1/8 NPT to 3/8 barbed hose
- 1/8 NPT to female 1/8 BSPT (To keep your oil preasure sender)
Water
- Coolant Gooseneck from a 91 NA MR2 (The 91-92 has a removable plug while the 93+ does not)
- M16×1.5 to 3/8 NPT (For the water return by the thermistat. I had to buy a M16×1.5 to 1/8, drill and tap it to 3/8)
- 3/8 male BSPT to 3/8 female NPT (For the water send at the coolant gooseneck.)
- 2 x 3/8 NPT to 3/8 hose barb 90 degree bends (The bends allow you to point the hose away from the downpipe or other obstacles.)
- 6 – 3/8″ hose clamps for oil and water lines
- Misc nuts and bolts for the turbo and manifold if you are missing any
- gaskets – Turbo to downpipe and exhaust manifold
- Misc Hoses and clamps
Hoses
- 12″long by 2″diam hose (IC pipe to IC)
- 2″diam coupler (Turbo to IC pipe)
- 2 to 2.5″diam transition coupler (IC to TB pipe)
- 2.5″diam coupler (TB pipe to TB)
Clamps
- 2 x 2.25″ clamps
- 3 x 2.5″ clamps
- 3 x 2.75″ clamps
- 4 feet of 3/8″ oil/coolant hose
- 10 feet 5/32″ vacuum hose
- 18 gauge wire and crimp connectors
- 2-1/8″ exhaust pipe coupler and two pipe clamps to join the down pipe to the NA exhaust if you cut your NA exhaust to fit
- Zip ties and misc hose clamps to secure vacuum lines under boost.

Upgrades from the basic 5S-FTE could include:
- KO or other Downpipe
- Turbo exhaust system
- Boost Controller
- EGT Gauge
- Air/Fuel Ratio Guage (Modify for WOT reading from www.gadgetseller.com)
- Oil Pressure Gauge
- Oil Temp Gauge
- Pilar pod and/or steering column pod
- SPAL intercooler pull fan
- Silicon hoses for turbo/IC pipes
- T-Bolt clamps instead of screw type clamps
- SAFC with ajustable FPR for fuel tuning (Requires spending time on a dyno)
- J&S Safeguard instead of MSD-BTM
- SMT6 instead of MSD-BTM/SAFC (Requires spending time on a dyno)
- CT-20b or larger turbo. (Be very careful here. 9psi on a CT-26 is not the same as 9psi on a TD06. You’ll need more fuel per pound of boost with a bigger turbo and you will get more power at lower boost. The stock fuel maps may not match up very well to the VE curve of your motor with a larger turbo on it.)

Many people ask if they can substitute different injectors or MAP sensors. The answer is yes but you will require some advanced way to tune your WOT fuel maps and it will get a whole lot more expensive. Call it the magic square of the 5S-FTE: 5S-FE Computer, 315cc injectors, ct-26 and 2 bar stock turbo MAP sensor. It’s a balanced equation and anything else can throw it off. The combination of CT-26, turbo MAP sensor, stock fuel pump, 315cc injectors and 5S-FE computer is only good up to about 9-10psi of boost. At this point the injectors are probably over 90% duty cycle. With some kind of fuel tuning or an AFPR you could possibly go higher but be careful, use a wideband and take slow steps up. If you go too lean you risk detonation and damaging your engine.
Something else that is nessesary to keep your motor safe is a device to retard timing according to boost level. You need this because you are tricking the stock ECU into thinking that less air is going into the engine and it advances timing past what is safe at boost. I chose to use the MSD-BTM and Tach Adapter because it was the most economical solution. A J&S Safeguard or SMT6 or SMT7 will also work but are more expensive with more features. Most people have it set to retard 1/5 to 1/2 degree per pound of boost. If you have a 93+ 5S-FE it will also have a knock sensor which is an added level of safety.

If 10psi and 180rwhp aren’t enough for you then there is still hope. Toyota only planned for the 5S-FE to have 135hp at the crank but it is still the sister engine of the 3S-GTE and in some ways, as I mentioned above, the stronger of the two. All of the weaknesses of the 5S-FE can be overcome but not all of the solutions are cheap.

Here are some of the limits and what you can do to get past them:

- Cams - Webcams and others make cams that will increase duration and lift. Webcam grinds of 294, 577 and 101 should increase performance and still be streetable. Welded cams like Webcams are easier to fit then cams that are only ground because the base circle is kept the same so stock shims can be used. Also they will be able to create a more aggresive profile then on a ground cam. You will need an EMS to idle really aggressive cams like 256 degree and above. Remember that cams shift your torque curve to the right so buy cams to suite where you want your torque peak. An bad example would be buying 306 degree cams. They would be almost useless in a motor that has a 6300rpm redline. Also high lift or ground cams may require underbucket shims or shimless buckets to keep the shims from popping out and keep in mind that valve springs have a point at which they coil bind. I found the stock 93 springs to bind at about .360″. Just FYI the difference between 91-92 cams and 93+ cams is the diameter of the base circle and the width of the lobes (smaller base circle on the 91-92 with narrower lobes). Otherwise they would be interchangable.

- Valves – 1mm or 2mm oversized valves will do wonders for volumeteric efficiency. 2mm oversized valves will require larger seats, porting and deshrouding of the combustion chamber. Use valves from a 3S-GTE for 91-92 5S-FE and valves from a 2JZ-GTE for the 93+ 5S-FE for 1mm oversized. The +1mm version of these valves will be +2mm in a 5S-FE.
- Ports – Port matching and cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports will improve VE and may be required to see gains from oversized valves. When porting you will always get the best results from a shop that can flow test the head. Many people recommend Chris Katthage of Engine Logics because he deals almost exclusively in MR2 performance motors and will document gains in flow when doing head work.

- Fuel Pump – Good to 235rwhp with stock pressure. Replace with a Walbro 255lph or supra pump if you want more.

- 5S-FE Computer – Runs rich and fires the injectors in batches. Also it can’t idle a set of aggressive cams because of reversion . Replace with a standalone or add an advanced piggyback. An SMT6 or SMT7 will allow you to get past your fuel and timing issues but still has limits. Personally I would go with stand alone ECU because it will remove all the limitations of the 5S-FE ECU.

- Injectors – With a standalone or advanced piggyback and a big fuel pump you can run much larger injectors. They may have to be custom though because top feed injectors are not as common as the side feed injectors found on the 3S-GTE.

- 6300rpm redline - To safely go above this you need upgraded valve springs (3S-GTE springs for 91/92 or 2JZ-GTE springs for 93+), forged or 3S-GTE rods because they will have bigger bolts (3S-GTE and 5S-FE rods are almost identical except for the rod bolts) and a stand alone computer to raise the rev limiter. 3S-GTE rods can be made to fit by grinding the crank journals down but they are also a few thousandths shorter then the 5S-FE rods so that can slightly lower compression.

- Compression – Custom Forged pistons can be installed for just about any compression ratio. Remember that overboring and oversized valves can change your compression ratio. For high boost you may want to shoot for 9.0:1 or less. Aggressive cams can also let you run higher compression and higher boost because with teh right tuning they reduce the propensity for detonation.

- Cam Gears – An adjustable intake cam gear can be made from a 2JZ-GTE adjustable cam gear with the center machined to fit. As for the exhaust, it will move with the intake in the same direction. This is probably the hardest limit to get past on a 5S-FE but it may be possible with some custom machine work to one of the internal cam gears to make it adjustable (Future project?).

- Intake Manifold – Just like any stock manifold there is only so much air that can flow through it and choosing the correct runner length and plenum volume in a custom manifold can add some extra velocity at different rpms. Most of the custom manifolds I have seen for the 5S-FE are side feed to keep air flow as even as possible between the cylinders and have shorter runners then stock to increase velocity at higher RPMs.
- Throttlebody – You could use a 4A-GZE or Mustang throttlebody to get a bigger bore and get more air flow. This requires a custom intake manifold and possibly some custom work for the TPS and IAC. With a stand alone this should be easier to get working.

- Oil Pump – Replace with a 98 5S-FE pump and shim the relief valve 1-1.5mm to get a higher pressure. If you do this you may have to put a restrictor on your turbo oil feed line to keep from blowing oil past your seals. You might need to do that anyway if you find oil pushing past the turbo oil seals.

3VZ-FE toysrme?
4VZ-FE JDM?
5VZ-FE Found in 1995.5-2004 Tacomas, 96-02 4runner, 95 T100(Rumor has it this was a Disti 5vz),00-03 Tundra -Weasy2k

1MZ-FE 94-99 Avalon, 94-02 Camry, 99-02 Solara, 98-03 Sienna
1MZ-FE*^ 03-04 Camry/Solara
1MZ-FE* 98-99 es300/rx300, 00-04 avalon/sienna 01-04 highlander
2MZ-FE* JDM?
3MZ-FE*^ 03-05 highlander, 04-05 Sienna, 05 camry/solara, 03-05 RX/ES 330

1GR-FE*^ 05 Tacoma
2GR-FE*^ 05 Avalon, 05 Rav4
3GR-FE*^
4GR-FE*^

2GRS-FE* IS350!!! i want!

* vvti equip
^ Drive by wire

Note: a Supra engine WILL NOT FIT!! it’s an inline6 get with the program!!

Drive by wire:
Out of all the new v6’s only the vvti 1mz never had it. the 3mz and gr series are all equip with it. There is also the +03 camry/solara too but they don’t have vvti. I wouldn’t suggest anyone to use these unless you plan to use a gr engine. Other wise you’ll have to deal lag; the pedal is designed for fuel economy in mind….

Transmission: The following transmission will work with some modification
E153 – although big compared to the s54 it’s much stronger and can take a beating. Mr2 transmission may need to have it’s dowel pins remove to fit on the block. I didn’t document the number of bolts used in a mr2T bellhousing as im using a v6 bellhousing w/ internals. but from my understanding it will cover more than the s54. Theres also a plus to using this tranny since some comes with LSD.

S54 – Opposite from the tranny above the mounting holes need to be enlarge.

note: if using an e153 on a n/a chasis you need the rear turbo hubs, axles and shifter cables

Clutch/Flywheel:
You need a v6 flywheel from any of the engine listed above that came with a manual transmission. With the exception of the vz’s truck flywheel. The MR2T flywheel will not work as the crank pattern is different; you can weld/redrill it but that will just compromise the strenght of the flywheel. Using a e153 you can use a stock turbo cluch setup but if using a s54 you need a E153 pressure plate and a s54 clutch combo (splines on the tranny is different)

Carrier bearing:
Every v6 from my understanding has one except for the longitudinal mounted ones like the 5vz’s. BUt if your using an S54 the axle doesnt need it. This is only for those using the E153. The bearing on Mr2T axle needs to be moved about 1/4″ left or right im not sure anymore it’s been too long.

Motor Mount:
In an Mr2 setup there are 4 mounts; 3 sits on the transmission and the other sits on the waterpump bracket (passenger side). You only need to make one mount for the passenger side. I suggest buying a spare driver side mount from the transmission and shaving off the plating and build a mount around it. You also need to reinforce the metal cylinder around the rubber mount because it has a weak spot. Mitch has a draft for the plate that goes ontop of the water pump bracket.

Exhaust:
Other than the 5vz where the exhaust joins ontop of the tranny, they will merge under the oilpan. Headers that come with precat are not usable as they will hit the motor mounts. Theres too many variants but i’ll just leave it for the exhaust shop to deal with

1992-1996 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6, 185 hp (137 kW)
1997-2001 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6, 194 hp (145 kW)
2001-2003 3.0 L 1MZ-FE* V6, 220 hp (164 kW)
1997-2001 2.5 L 2MZ-FE V6, 200 hp (149 kw) at 6000 rpm with 180 ft·lbf (244 N·m) at 4600 RPM
2004-2005 3.3 L 3MZ-FE* V6, 230 hp (172 kW)

1GR-FE* 236 hp (183 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 ft.lbf (382 Nm) of torque at 3800 rpm
2GR-FE* 268 hp (200 kW) at 6200 rpm with 248 ft.lbf (336 Nm) of torque at 4700 rpm
2GR-FSE** 315 hp (232 kW) at 6400 rpm and 377 Nm (277 ft.lbf) at 4800 rpm
3GR-FE* ???
3GR-FSE** ???
4GR-FSE** 204 hp at 6400 rpm with 265Nm of torque at 4800 rpm

*single vvt-I
** dual vvt-I

People complaining that the beams engine is too rare/expensive.

So here’s my guide, on how to go about getting a 200+hp 3SGE, for the least amount of money!

Firstly, the gearbox: Your standard gearbox is more than fine. LSD is fun, but definitely not needed.
Standard hubs/axles/etc are fine too.

Clutch: You cant use a 5SFE clutch/flywheel.
One from a gen 2 or gen 3 3SGE is fine. (note: gen 1 3S clutch will not work!)
The PCD of the flywheel bolts/crank is slightly larger on the 3S.

You can use a 3SGTE clutch cover plate and flywheel, but you need the clutch disk from a certain type of Hilux to make it work. As the input shaft spline diameter is different between turbo and NA gearboxes.
Although of course if you’re running a turbo gearbox (Which I dont reccomend) You need a clutch disc to suit an E153 gearbox.

Engine:
Alright this is a big call, but: Screw the redtop!
Basically, you’re paying a premium for an engine that isnt as rare as people make it out to be, and, according to CelicaRA45, who has had one of each and pulled them apart, the ONLY DIFFERENCE to a caldina ‘greytop’ engine, is the fact that the rocker covers arent red.
Worth an extra $3k? I dont think so!
UPDATE: I’ve now learnt, that there is a difference between the redtop and greytop models… The greytops have the catalytic converter built into the headers! As opposed to near the muffler for the SW20 and Celica. Which probably accounts for the 10hp difference. So get a decent set of headers, and you’ll more than likely get your 10hp back.

Caldina GTs are fairly common, definitely a lot moreso than SS2 celicas, or gen 5 SW20s! I see one at least once a day here in NZ.
Look to get one imported from a country like New Zealand, I think you’ll pay less of a premium for the engine/shipping than from Japan.
Also Caldina GTs are getting to the age where they are no longer in Japan all that much, so countries like NZ are getting flooded with them.

Wiring/ECU.
Okay, now here’s the biggest problem with running a Caldina engine.
Basically, they’re all autos.
I dont know how expensive a wiring loom is to suit an SW20 from toyota, but I’d imagine it’s prohibitively expensive.
I’m not sure how hard it is to run it with a manual transmission, as I’ve never tried. I believe there’s a way you can fool the auto trans computer with resistors or some such thing.

UPDATE: The way to go about this, is to earth out the pin that leads to the auto trans, which makes it think that the car is in neutral. I’m not sure which pin exactly this is, but that’s how you do it. There’s a guy in oz running a caldina beams auto engine in his AW11, and this is what he did.

The biggest advantage of getting a beams engine from an SW20 to swap into an SW20, is that the wiring is all virtually plug and play, barring one or two small items which are easy to solve. (Well it may be more complicated, if your car started life with a 5SFE)
Using a caldina loom, may take a significant amount of time tracing wiring etc.
I wouldnt reccomend using this engine, to someone that isnt familiar with wiring etc… You’d end up spending more than the cost of a redtop, just getting the wiring redone, etc.

I dont know for sure, but it’s possible that the auto ECU is tuned for 190HP instead of 200hp.
I would imagine because it’s got to pull around a lardy 4WD wagon instead of a light sports car, perhaps they have to retard the ignition or some such thing.
I’ve also heard that compression ratio is 10.5:1 instead of 11:1, but I cant say for sure. CelicaRA45 says they are Identical, and he knows what he’s talking about.

UPDATE: See above… 10hp difference is more than likely thanks to the catalytic converter being built into the headers.

Tacho signal/speedo signal.

Two ways to go about this. If you have a gen 2+ car, use the electric speedo signal from your existing gearbox.
If you have a gen 1, you can either use the cable, or convert it to electric. No problems either way! I’m using a cable, and the ECU still gets the speedo signal.. As I’ve still got the 180ish KPH speed cut in place.

For the tacho signal, you can either get a rev counter mechanism from a 1997+ toyota that has the same rev counter scale, or alternatively, get a tacho signal adaptor, to make your existing tacho work.

Basically, the problem is that the beams engine runs coil pack ignition, and the gen 2 or 3 3SGE or 5SFE doesnt.
So the ‘old’ signal runs at 20 volts or so, as it comes straight from the distributor.
The ‘new’ signal runs at either 5 volts or 12 volts, as it comes straight from the ECU or coils.

I’ve done a few things the hard way along the way with mine, so I thought I’d compile a list of things that might make it easier for someone else.

The 5vz-fe has proven strong parts, when the TRD supercharger is used, good power can be made. Even safely if you add fuel!

Why the 3vz-fe is superior

Mostly ECU reasons:

It’s OBD-I ECU is the least trouble code throwing, least caring ECU in the line-up. I have tuned 720cc injectors to run on an N/A 3vz-fe acceptibly.

It does not throw/store codes from o2 sensor feedback – even if it is massively different. Black smoke rich to engine melting lean. It doesn’t care.

1mz-fe’s have horrible over sensitive knock sensor problems. 3vz-fe’s do not.

Like running a mild turbo, or N/A without much in the way of fuel/ignition tuning? The 3vz-fe has the large Denso AFM, and a distributor. Stock, off the bat leaning the AFM cog & adding 7* of timing (17*btdc base) advance puts the 92-93 3vz-fe 185bhp to the 94-97.5 3vz-fe’s 200bhp.

200cc stock injectors are Bleh. But with a combination of a walbro 190+, FPR, and either an extra injector, or larger injectors (330cc @ 41/43psi), you can run up to 300bhp out of one without touching the ECU if you don’t want.

Yes… You can install a FPR, 550cc’s, and a Walbro 255 & use the AFM cog to tune over 350bhp… All without a piggyback. it has been done. You will need lots of money, as you will rich so ungodly rich you’ll get stuck at the gas pump.

The 3vz-fe ECU is very accommodating when it comes to closed loop changes. Don’t like the fact that a normal ECU likes to run stoich under boost until open loop? 3vz-fe’s are not prone to tuning such changes out. If they do, we have it covered with $10. A relay +wire
3vz-fe also has a neat ability, transforming it into what essentially stand alone.
Run the TPS’s output (VTA) through one side of a double pole double throw (DPDT) relay. Take the 5v TPS/AFM supply (VC). Run this through the other side of the DPDT relay.
Trigger the relay however you want, when you want to enter open loop mode. Be that all the time, a $3 ebay boost pressure switch, or an output for your piggyback.
Because of it’s ability to run massive size injectors compared to stock, it doesn’t care!
OBD-I > OBD-II
1)easy tuning
2)the one fuel trim change do not continue through open-loop

Afraid you’ll miss OBD-II’s anal retentiveness for troubleshooting?
The 3vz-fe has you covered. Tho the ‘94 1mz-fe had the world’s first complaint engine/ECU, the 3vz-fe’s do have an ace up their sleeve.
Diagnostic mode II. Yes… The 3vz-fe is the only v6, and one of two OBD-II Toyota’s with DIAG2! This can’t even be entered with the ECU OFF! It has to be done with the engine running! It will throw every code possible instantly. Guess what happens when you trigger it & you’re not moving more than 6mph? Yep, wheel speed sensor code. All your temp & o2 sensors haven’t warmed up? Ya – count all them too. Along with a half dozen other codes.
Anything triggers anything in DIAG2.

All MZ block engine’s have a 139mph hard speed limit.
All 3vz-fe’s have no limit… You need power VS Aerodynamics to do 190mph.

Mechanical side:

The 3vz-fe itself is *highly* resistant to detonation. Many times more than a 3vz-e, 1mz-fe, or 5vz-fe is. The most resistant to detonation of any of the v6’s. I have personally run 22* of maximum advance over 6000rpm with my SMT-6 with no pinging. On Chevron 87.
Another ported & polished 3vz-fe went to a drag strip to test ignition timing. A base timing of 20* (stock is 10* universal to all v6’s/normal Toyota engines) produced no pinging, but poor performance. On 87 octane.

The 3vz-fe has the strongest stock rods used on any v6. They are massive.
Huge… Iron… Block… We don’t need sleeves, we don’t need block work to lay down 600whp. It’s too similar in construction to a 3000GT’s v6 not to say maybe even 900bhp+.
Other than the cast pistons, the 3vz-fe is stronger part for part than any other v6. It has yet to be seen if the biggest stock 3vz-fe can take down the biggest stock 5vz-fe. Why?

Because Neither Sean, nor I have set out to do it yet.

Like oil? 3vz-fe’s don’t. Yes, even 3psi at a cold idle is in spec… If you’re not on the gas, they don’t have a ton of oil pressure. This is great for turbo life.
FYI Camry 3vz-fe’s have no oil pressure sensor installed while ES 300/Windom’s do.
As long as the red light of death is off – you don’t have an oil problem, no matter HOW bright the yellow low oil level light is! (That’s an inside joke. I killed my OLS when I installed my turbo oil return somehow.)

3vz-fe redlines a 6850rpm, and the fuel cut is at 7100rpm.
Toyota RPM gauges read very, very slow I have logged my engine at 7400rpm on my SMT6… A 5vz-fe would come apart at that rpm without cams, valve springs & other work. Not us. (We have very diminishing power on stock cams after 6000rpm, however it’s best to shift at 6500-6900rpm to stay in powerband)

We don’t waste money on cams… Our engine has the biggest powerband (except maybe a 5vz-fe) under 3000rpm. We have OVER 100whp at 2000rpm. Yes… That’s right… Only a 3vz-fe has the power to spin tires on the Camry platform!

We get HUGE gains from head porting!!!
Seam McElligott got 30-35bhp.
I did my MYSELF and got 25-30.
A Camry owner had his done and got 25, possibly 30.
What do cams do on a 3vz-fe? Turn it into a 1mz-fe! <BLAH!> A cammed 3vz-fe made 220bhp on an MR2 with zero powerband.
We make 220bhp off P&P light N/A tuning, & a y-pipe… And still have the massive low rpm powerband.

The fully built N/A 3vz-e’s made 320bhp.
A fully built N/A 3vz-fe should then make 370bhp. Hey… If two extra valves are good for 50bhps tock, they should be worth it built too!

The downside is that the 3vz-fe has stock cast pistons. Not a problem when you run the correct amount of fuel, however 1mz-fe’s ahve cast pistons WITH a coating. They are minutely stronger (I say minutely because no 3vz-fe has hurt it’s bottom end, stock 1mz-fe’s have melted rings & pistons by running slightly lean at lower power levels than have been achieved by 3vz-fe’s)

Despite what anyone says, the 5vz-fe has one important edge. Displacement… 11.7% displacement advantage will ALWAYS equal an 11.7% power advantage when comparing the same basic setup.
If you have money, this doesn’t matter. A source once had a machinist calculate how far you could possibly stroke a 3vz-fe. 3.7L. The supposed kit that was coming from that was going to cost $4000+, and stroke to 3.5-3.6L.

I’ve worked on them all. Had a hand in one turbo 3vz-e, then turboed another from scratch. Turboed mine a few different odd ways so far. Rebuilt my 3vz-fe more times than you will ever want to know. Worked with 1mz-fe’s & worked on 5vz-fe’s.

3vz-fe JDM’s have no EGR. US’s can be throw away & blocked off. 1mz-fe1’s? Nopers!
3vz-fe’s have EVAP, but don’t care if you throw it away. 1mz-fe’s? Nope!
3vz-fe loose their 5-10bhp from carbon over a few years. 1mz-fe1’s have HORRIBLY over used EGR systems. What a 3vz-fe builds up over a few years, a 1mz-fe1 builds up in 9 months. Guess what, that new 1mz-fe you bought? if the entire intake track hasn’t been cleaned in the last 9-12 months, you can subtract 10bhp.

3vz-fe’s are non-interference. 1mz-fe1’s are also, 1mz-fe2’s are not.
My 2 favorite demonstration pictures of all time.
Don’t think that’s important? I destroyed my first OEM timing belt doing a top speed run when I got to 143mph, but still made it home.

I split my second within min of if running the first time. Shutup. They were installed correctly…

Is a 3vz-fe perfect? No. is it more perfect than everything else? Yes.
It’s the pinnacle of old & new engine design & controls when it comes to tuning.
SMT-6, or SMT-7’s kick other piggybacks’s asses.

Lastly, I like them & own them, so they’re instantly 36.8427545% better than what anyone else owns!