List of tools:

30 mm 12 point socket to remove the drive shaft nut (Ace Hardware)
14 mm 6 point socket to remove most bolts on tranny, engine mounts
17 mm 6 point socket to remove the two top tranny bolts and control arms
12 mm 6 point socket to remove battery tray, top engine mount bracket, ground wire to tranny
10mm 6 point socket to remove neg on battery etc
22 or 24mm 6 point to remove oil drain plug
Different length
extenders for sockets and universal joints for some angles to get socket on the bolts
1 Large flat head screw driver or small “pry bar” to pop off driver side axle
1 Jack two is better
3 Jack stands, two to hold up car one for engine when tranny is out (or jack to hold engine up)
Braker bar ( most tranny bolts are on with 50 ft lbs or less) not to bad
*2 cargo straps one with ratcheting ( time saver and makes removing / installing the tranny SO MUCH EASIER)
Dremmel or small hack saw to cut out small piece of the front engine mount to access the clutch release cylinder (so you don’t have to disconnect and bleed the clutch system)
1 Step stool
1 funnel
1 roll of paper towels

Now for the fun.

While the car is on the ground loosen the 30mm bolt holding the axle shaft. Make sure you bend up the locking tab on the nut I used a hole punch then a screw driver.

Remove the rear crossbrace (14mm) then battery and air box all the way up to the intake.

Remove the battery tray assembly 12mm

Remove the two pins holding the shift cables make sure to mark one of the cables to know which one goes to which pin. I use a paper towel and wire to mark the longest cable.

Remove the back up plug, bolt to ground wire 12mm

Remove the bolt holding down the wire harness to the transmission 12mm

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the rear of the car

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the front of the car. Its not easy to see but with a long screw driver or pry bar you can move around the engine hoses & wire harness to put on the socket

Now jack up the car and make sure you use jack stands. I have the smaller type 2 ton, you’ll need to raise the car high enough to slide the tranny out. I went three or four exposed notches.

When under the the car I started with the starter bolts 14mm

Then the two bolt holding the clutch cylinder 12mm

Then remove the the engine long bolt 14mm or 17mm and the three bolts 14mm holding the mount to the car and the bolt at the rear lower transmission 14mm

Remove the holding clip and then cut out a notch with a dremmel to slide the clutch cylinder out

Remove the two 14mm bolts behind the header. You might need extensions and universal joint with the scoket & ratchet.

Remove the lower tranny bolts 14mm

Remove the lower control arms bolts 17mm. The nut with the dial remove. The other control arms you must turn the bolt not the nuts. The nuts have a spike on back of them that will not let it turn. The bolts are the way to go.

Remove the three amigo header bolts and pop off the down pipe (you don’t need to remove the down pipe)

Place a oil pan under the tranny then remove the oil drain nut 22mm or 24mm. drain the oil.

I used an air chisel fork to pop off the axle a large flat head screw driver or small prybar will work (the air chisel fork was used as a pry bar only not hooked up to an air source, the bit has a turned up side like a fork has and that gives it a little more leverage). Turn the other wheel a little at a time until it just pops off. Don’t force it, keep turning the other wheel a little at a time until it comes off there is a C-clip that needs to slip down so the shaft slides out.

Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 4 bolts 14mm to the car.

This part you’ll need a jack to support the engine and lower it a little to slide out the tranny (only one engine mount will be attached) don’t drop it to low. Also, I used a jack stand as add comfort, I placed it an inch lower (just in case)

First replace the strut crossmember brace, then tie off one end of the cargo strap to it and wrap it around the bell housing through the engine mount brackets and hook or tie off ( leave slack to lower the engine two to three inches) Then place the jack under the oil pan closet to the bell housing, I used the first rib line. Don’t place it under the lowest widest part of the oil pan, that is where the oil pick up is and you don’t want to damage it. Depending on how high your jack goes, up I used a 4×4 the same length as my jack, my jack is small 2 ton. Jack up the engine just to take the load off the mount.
Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 3 bolts 14mm to the tranny

The arrow pointing to the left it where I place my flat head screw driver to pry the bell housing a little.

At this point slide under the car and slide the tranny to the wheel side. All its wight will be supported by the cargo strap. FYI the tranny weighs around 65 or 70 lbs. not to heavy

Go back up and lower the tranny using the strap to the ground, slide it out.

Putting it back

Slide the tranny back under the car wrap one of the cargo straps back around the bell housing through engine mount brackets over the strut crossbrace like before.

New part: next place the ratcheting cargo strap around the small end of the tranny. You want to angle the transmission up into place parallel to the engine. You want to zig zag the straps up.

Rotate the tranny in the straps to align the tranny up. I was turning the tranny counter clockwise a few times when I was ratcheting it up.

When you have the tranny line up with the straps slide back under the car and push the tranny up and towards the engine. If its aligned up it will slide into place fairly easy. When you feel the drive shaft slide into the clutch your all most home. Make sure the bolt holes line up and the two pins and it should pop into place. I hand tightened the bolt just under the “pin” next to the header and the lower bolt closer to the firewall, then snug them down. Then put in the top two bolts and work your way around. Do the starter bolts after the Driver side tranny mount is installed.

At this point you should have 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine. Two large 17mm bolts on top two 14mm on the bottom and one 14mm bolt by the header. reattach the driver top engine mount bracket 3 12mm or 14mm bolts to the tranny then jack the engine/tranny up so you can slide the thru bolt to hold the tranny and engine mount together. The jack under the engine can come out the engine is supported by the two mounts. Then do everything in reverse and don’t forget to fill with gear oil.

Best of all we can use this cap (12mm bolt) at the top of the transmittion to fill with oil (no mess), unbolt and turn, its held in with a gasket

The final step filling with a funnel.

** IF YOU DON”T GET THE PINS TO LINE UP WITH THE BOLT HOLES SOMETHING IS MISS ALIGNED.** most likely the clutch is not centered after a clutch change. Don’t force the tranny in, just lower and check the clutch by loosing a few bolts on the housing and recenter the clutch and tighten it back to spec

Tools necessary:
-10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm wrenches (ratcheting kind is super handy)
-10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets
-ratchets and extensions for said sockets (the air variety will save time)
-channel lock pliers (handy for removing spring clips)
-cable, wire or string (for tieing stuff out of your way)
-clean table top or other horizontal surface, so you can
place the parts out of the way and not lose them
-cherry picker or lift (to pick the car up off of the engine)
-dolly of some kind (to roll the drivetrain out from under the car)
-catch can for coolant (you can drain this at any time, I choose
to do it when I first lift the car up over my head because its
convenient.
-catch can for transmission oil (if you take the axles out, I do
not take them out of the transmission in this walk through. If
I did, I would drain the transmission first to avoid a mess.)
-flathead screw driver
-common sense (please do not be a booger eating moron and get
yourself killed, people will laugh at your obituary.)

Suggested Tools:
-impact wrench (with one of these the tight bolts you encounter
do not pose as much of a threat to your knuckles and your cereal
will taste better the next day.)
-bright portable lights (if I have to explain why, you should not be
reading this and you are a booger eating moron.)
-plenty of room to work (will also make your cereal taste better
the next day.)

Time Needed to Drop:
This was done in 3 hours and 45 minutes of actual wrench time. That includes the 15-20 minute call I had to make to Blitzo because I got stuck and also includes doing several things out of order and needlessly raising and lowering the car. If I were to do this again in the order laid out in this document, I could have this joker out in 1.5 – 2 hours without breaking a sweat from the halogen lights.

Another handy thing to have is a cushy place for your butt. I don’t know about the rest of the world but I enjoy sitting on mine. Especially when I’m “working”.

btw – I also suggest not doing this in the FREAKING cold. It required me to wear gloves because I can’t work when my hands go numb. I generally hate using gloves because I lose a lot of fine dexterity with my fingers, but given my choices I think I picked the better option. I wholeheartedly suggest you invest in a pair if it is FREAKING cold where you plan to do this swap.

Before you get started, I suggest removing the battery. As you can see, I didn’t do that immediately – however I do recomend it first priority as far as safety for the mobile goes.

All setup on the lift, ready to work. I do not condone this type of action with one of these lifts. It is not designed to have the ass end of a car hanging off of it like I did. However, I didn’t see why it wouldn’t work so I did it anyway.

Gratuitous butt shot.

Off with the wheels. The lug wrench that came with the Spyder will do, but the impact made it nicer. 21mm socket, if anyone is curious.

Both rear wheels need to be removed.

As you can see the two 10mm bolts holding the license plate have been removed along with the plate. Do not forget about these small electrical clips. Leaving them on when you pull the bumper skin off will embarass you in front of your friends.

Hit all three 10mm screws that are on each side of the bumper skin. Two are where I have my ratchet placed, one is hiding up in the wheel well but is easy enough to spot.

This needs to be done on both sides.

Pop the hood

While hard to see, I’m removing one of the two 10mm bolts that secure the tail light in place.

This needs to be done for both lights.

Removing the electrical clip that is attached to the tail light housing.

This needs to be done for both lights.

Removing the two 10mm bolts that secure the bumper skin to some actual metal under the tail lights.

This needs to be done for both sides.

Using a flathead screwdriver to pop up the five (less if you tend to lose them like me) plastic clips that secure the bumper skin along the top.

Carefully pulling the bumper skin off. Make sure you have an adequate space already lined up for this joker to sit. Basically, its flimsy, oddly shaped and is something you do NOT want to scratch up. I ended up putting it on the roof of my Two Door.

Removing the two vertical bars behind the bumper skin that are held on with a 10mm bolt and 10mm nut.

Removing the rear strut brace. This is held on by two 14mm nuts at the struts and two 14mm bolts at the body. Once you have them out, it lifts up and you can set it aside out of the way.

Don’t forget about these little clip things that secure the third brake light wiring when you go to remove the hood. Also embarassing in front of your friends if you forget.

Removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the rear deck lid to the hinges. Don’t be a dumbass, get a friend to help you with this. Have them hold up one side while you remove the bolts from the other. It is possible to lay a towel out and work one side at a time but its easier to have a buddy hold up one side while you do the other. They can help you put the rear deck lid on a clear horizontal space as well. Be easy, scratching this piece will hurt your feelings.

Just taking a step back to admire the handy work…of the disassembly…the exhaust work is nothing to write home about and I’m glad that I’m finally getting rid of it. It used to be two mufflers, but I blew one out and had to cut it out and weld a piece of pipe in its place. I had to do this pronto because the muffler gave on a Thursday evening and I needed to be at work Friday morning. btw – This nastiness was what I learned to weld on. I expect the next exhaust system will reflect my improved metal sticking abilities (grin).

Popping the clips that secure the wires for the license plate lights.

Removing the rear bumper from the sub frame rails. There are three 14mm bolts holding this on each side.

Removing the O2 sensor. 2zz’s only use one for A/F ratios, plus its common to do a custom exhaust when you put one in your Spyder.

The exhaust for a 1zz would look nothing like the one pictured in this project.

After 30 minutes you too can have a spyder as light as this one.

Using a 19mm socket, loosen the accessory belt tensioner so you can take the belt off while you have the car on the ground.

Lift the car and pop the coolant drain plugs. There are two 12mm bolts. One on each coolant line. As an aside, the draining is helped if you pull the resevoir cap off the tank in the back of the car. As you can see from all the mud under my car, I hate dirt roads. Mine is finally paved but not before a few weeks of extremely nasty rainy weather got to visit and decorate the underside of my car.

Have a catch can of some sort for when the plugs come out.

Pictured here is me removing the two 12mm bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder to the bellhousing. I used a ratcheting wrench to get these as my air ratchet wouldn’t clear very easily.

Using the impact to zip the transmission mount by the clutch slave cylinder apart. As I recall, that was a 17mm. It may seem strange that I am taking this bolt out, but it needs to come out anyway because it keeps the mount bracket out of your way when you finally lower the engine from the car.

Removing the two 14mm bolts that secure the mount bracket to the bellhousing.

What I ended up with after I removed all that stuff. (one mount down, two to go – the fourth is left on, you’ll see)

Tie the slave cylinder up out of the way so its not stressing the clutch line.

Basically – there are four 12mm bolts that are holding the compressor on. Well that and an electrical clip. Don’t forget about the clip or you will embarass yourself in front of your friends. When removing the bolts, remove the two that are above the compressor first. The bolts are long and thin, so if you do the bottoms first, they won’t come off entirely and simply get in the way when you try to unbolt the top ones.

Untied the slave cylinder and tied the compressor in place. I then used the left over on the wire to secure the slave cylinder to the compressor.

This is the fuel line. More specifically, this is the spot where you should disconnect the fuel line if you intend to pull a 1zz/2zz engine from a Spyder. I simply pressed the white plastic thing together and the rubber line easily lifted off and out of the way.

Keep a rag handy for the little bit of gasoline that will pour out.

Yes, this white plastic thing.

Using a 10mm wrench to remove the bracket that keeps the hydraulic brake line from moving too much.

This is the ABS sensor for the wheel. There is a 10mm bolt that is holding it in place.

Actually removing said 10mm bolt and tucking the sensor up out of my way.

Some random bracket that is held on by a 10mm bolt. Since the hub assembly is coming off, this guy must stay with the car. So I’m taking it loose.

Using Mr. Impact again to zip off the lower 17mm (maybe 14mm, I forget at the moment) bolt that is holding the caliper on.

Removing the upper 17mm (maybe 14mm, I forget at the moment) bolt that is holding the caliper on.

Pulling the caliper off. At which point I balanced it on the forward locator bar for the hub.

Pulling the rotor off. I laid it on the floor out of the way.

Tied the caliper up out of the way so I could unbolt the forward locator bar for the hub.

Unbolting the two 19mm bolts that hold the cup to the strut. Incidentally, this is how you adjust your camber alignment if you’re curious. You buy different diameter sized bolts that allow the cup to tilt in or out a specified number of degrees and tighten them up while holding the hub assembly tilted one way or the other. My friends tried to explain to me that there was rocket science involved in automobile alignments…if they only knew.
btw – caster is not adjustable on these cars, if you have adjusted it you are not concerned with your alignment so much as the butt pillaging that the insurance company is going to give you for wrecking your car.

Removing the 17mm bolt that holds the forward locator bar to the hub. At this point the hub moves really easily.

As you can see.

Every detail shown regarding the hub must be duplicated for the other side of the car.

Removing the three 12mm bolts that hold the battery holder in place. The third one is way down low next to the strut. Its hobbies include making you go find a magnadoodle pen so you can retrieve it when it drops out of sight.

Removed the intake that was behind the battery. I am running a Pelican Racing style intake on my car. Stock intakes will need a little different finagling so I didn’t even go into it here…just remove your entire intake if you would still like to keep up.

Make sure this ground wire comes off the transmission. You will embarass yourself in front of your friends if you don’t when you go to lower the engine out of the car. Its a 10mm or 12mm as I recall.

Remove the 10mm nut holding the starter wire to the fuse panel.

Then take this wire loose and lay it over onto the engine.

All plugs to the ECM have been removed including the four wires that are necessary to integrate to the body harness if you are running a 2zz motor in your Spyder. These wires have to do with the O2 sensor if you’re curious because the Celica GTS keeps its O2 sensor so far away from the engine that it is wired in with the body harness. There are three plugs to the right of the two wiring bundles pictured that must also be removed. They come out with the engine wiring harness.

The scene just before I yank the engine harness through the firewall and lay it on the engine.

Said engine harness yanked through the firewall and laying on the engine.
btw – there are a few little clips for the harness to attach to the transmission that I have not mentioned here, they are pretty obvious when you see them in person and they simply require a flathead screw driver to disconnect.

Right after I laid everything up on the engine and made sure all the wiring junk was separated and out of the way.

The are the shift linkage connections. Just pull the little pin and the washer pops off along with the linkage head. Do not lose those parts.

These little clips tried to hurt my feelings. Basically I pushed the little metal piece down (circled) and forced the linkage (arrow points to it) up with a screwdriver. It popped out. I seem to recall there being a more convenient trick for this, but I don’t know what it is.

Using the impact wrench I zipped the driver’s side transmission mount loose. This was a 17mm I think. 17 or 14… I expect it will be pretty obvious when you start wrenching on it.

This is the modified celica mount used to keep the passenger side of the motor connected. I highly recomend to anyone using a 2zz in their Spyder to get a custom mount. Modifying the celica mount will let you get by, but the other three mounts tend to twist a little because its impossible to elongate the bolt hole enough to sit correctly.

I forget what this looks like on a 1zz, on the 2zz its just a 17mm bolt on the body side, two 14mm bolts on the motor side along with two 14mm nuts on the underside of the bridge mount toward the motor.

I used an old engine stand and laid a board across its legs. Then I placed two tires on the boards to let the motor and transmission sit on. This worked pretty darn well. Once I had the drive train sitting on this, I removed the two 17mm bolts holding the crossmember to the subframe rails and also the 12mm bolt that was holding some kind of bracket for the brake lines. Ignore the detail of the rear sway bar being disconnected. It was not necessary and I put the bolt back right after I took this picture.

Each side of the crossmember has two 17mm bolts and a 12mm bolt that need to be removed.

This is a pic of me lifting the car up from the drivetrain. I don’t recall moving, but apparently I was having some sort of epileptic fit when I pressed the button. Notice how I twisted the motor a bit to better clear the passenger side frame rail. It was at this point that I disconnected the throttle cable. If you forget about the throttle cable you will embarass yourself in front of your friends when you lift the car from the drivetrain.

Another pic to illustrate the twist I put on the drivetrain to clear the passenger subframe rail. BTW – something not pointed out during this is that the 2zz’s have a ground wire connected to the body above the valve cover towards the pullies. If you forget about this, you will embarass yourself in front of your friends when you lift the car from the drivetrain.

Voila – No more engine.

Still no more engine.

Everything that came out with the engine.

Everything I laid on one of my work tables. I keep the related bolts grouped together and move from a top to bottom, left to right motion as I put another pile of bolts on it. This way its easier for me to work backwards and put everything back in its place while I am reassembling.

Thats the whole show as far as I’m aware. The most important tool to use for this task is common sense. Yes that bears repeating. If you have any questions, please direct them to someone who cares.

Photos by Marilyn Murray – Copywrong 2005 my rights reserved and all that jazz.

Front Removal

1) Loosen lug nuts. Raise and support the corner of the car you are working on. Remove wheel.

2) Remove two 17mm bolts holding caliper and mouting bracket to the rotor. Support the caliper on the strut assembly so as not to damage the brake line.

3) Remove rotor by jiggling and pulling it off.

4) Now you should see three Torx bolts holding the dust shield to the steering knuckle. You can also use a 10mm socket to get these loose. Here’s a pic of the bolts, there’s a third one on the opposite side as well. You have to go at these at an angle, becuase the hub is in the way. It also took a pair of pliers on the nut driver to get these loose.

5) Now the dust shield should be loose. However, you can’t just pull it off over the hub. So you need to cut a slot in it so you can. Do that in the spot below with a dremel or rotozip type tool.

6) Ended up having to cut off more than indicated above, since the metal was not as flexible as I thought. Used the side-cutting bit on a Rotozip. Here’s the dust shields off, to show you how much you need to cut off.

I don’t have any pics of the headliner removal process, but it’s fairly straightforward. Just a lot of little things.

1) Slide off the cover to the rear view mirror. Remove the 2 screws underneath to remove the mirror.

2) Remove the 2 screws holding each sunvisor in place. Remove the clips that each sunvisor clips into as well.

3) Remove the A-pillar trim pieces on each side. This are held in place by 3 or 4 hidden clips under the trim piece.

4) Remove the “oh-no!” handle on the passenger side and the trim piece under it. Remove that same trim piece from the driver’s side.

5) Remove the cover from the interior light, using a screwdriver to pry one edge out. Remove the 4 screws holding the light in place.

6) Remove the trim piece in the upper rear that was behind the light.

7) The directions here will differ depending if you have sunroof, t-top or hardtop. If hardtop I would assume the headliner should now come off. I’m not sure what needs done on the t-tops. On sunroof models, remove the sunroof, then dismantle the latch from the roof. This allows you to remove the weatherstripping from around the sunroof opening. You can then remove the headliner.

Thoroughly wash each piece that you will be dying and let dry. Then pain the pieces as directed on the spray can. Here are some comparison pictures of undyed vs. dyed.

9) Installation is opposite of removal. Here’s some pics after installation. It looks better in person than in the pics.

Just some reference pics of the headliner removed.

(2) – now the number plate needs to come off, behind it there’s 2 screws, remove them and the number mount will lift out revealing 2 connectors, these are for the number plate lights, disconnect them.

(3) – Next I disconnected the nappy, this is done by removing 5 x 10mm bolts, 3 from the bottom edge of the bumper panel, they look like this, and 2 that are held at the front of the nappy, there is also a plastic clip on the right that will need to be removed, it’s the same as all theother plastic clips in this job, just lever out the middle a few mm and then pull the whole thing out.

(4) – With the nappy removed, there are 3 plastic clips up behind it, they’re the same design as the one on the nappy.

(5) – Also along the same edge as the 3 nappy bolts you will find, just behind the wheels, the 2 bolts that attach through U-clip shaped pieces of plastic that are part of the wheel arch, pry the U-clips off to make life easier when removing the bumper

(6) – Next I disconnected the wheel arch bolt, again it’s a 10mm bolt located here (Arrow)The circle marks a clip, once the 10mm bolt has been removed, this clip can be popped out with some minor pressure applied to the back.

(7) – Now you’re almost there, remove the 5 plastic clips along the top in the same way as before.

(8) – This now leaves the bumper panel suspended on the 4 bolts that are underneath the where the lights sat, for peace of mind I got someone to hold the panel whilst I removed these.Now with these bolts out just gentle pull and the bumper will come off!

Things to remember:
Cap off coolent hoses
Protect fuel lines from contaminants and dont loose the banjo bolts and crush washers.
DONT CUT your wire harness, if your using a stock ECU you will be grafting the old MR2 harness into your V6 harness.

Keep the stock starter relay, you may remove the fan control and the stock ECU

The following is exactly the same for 3s or 5s swaps.

When your engine arrives check it over for sludge. Keep in mind some of the V6′es have been in grandmas car and may not have seen much attention.

This motor is a 5VZ but the swap is nearly identical to all other swaps. Notice the complete lack of motor mount on the front of the engine.

This is the 3S flywheel sitting on the 5VZ crank. I suggest replacing the 5VZ flywheel with a 1MZ wheel rather than modifying the 3s wheel.

The 3S-GTE pully fits right onto the 5VZ crank, the 5S pully should too. Remember to RE-mark the 4cly crank pully, the timing marks are in a different location than on the v6

You can not use the 5VZ spacer plate because the starter is on the opposite side. You will need to “modify” the 3S or 5S plate.

1MZ flywheel with MR2 TURBO pressure plate and disk

Here you can see an issue with the axel from the turbo transmission and the 5VZ block. There is no mount location for the axel holder. You will need to make an adapter that will bolt into the motor mount location.

Yes you CAN drop the motor and transaxel in from the top, by yourself I would say even the 4.0 v6 should fit through the top.

Here you can see a prototype adapter for the turbo axel. This should give you a good idea of how everything could bolt up without needing to machine the axel .

This is the coolant outlet on the 5VZ. Since its from a truck it faces the wrong way and needs to be cut and reshaped. I used an angle grinder, torch and bigass hammer. EDIT: the plastic 3VZ-FE coolant outlet bolts up and requires no moddification

 Here is the Cummings turbo coolant F pipe that works perfectly as a coolant fill pipe and heater core hose.

Sorry these are blurry but it serves as a warning to everyone planning a swap. You should get your ECU, harness and, engine from the same year. Toyota was nice enough to move some pins around between 96 and 98 so I had to MAKE my own ECU connector with DB25 computer pins and hot glue. Can you say “GHETTO” I think I can

You can swap all the mount plates from your 5s ECU or 3s to the OBDII ecu and it will mount in the stock location. I have an intercooler pipe running through there so I mounted it on the trunk floor.

Good luck.

Jim

[AndrewMcG]

I thought I would add a couple picks to this thread since I have yet to see any real good pictures of Jim’s motor mount actually mounted on the engine. I had a hard time picturing it until I had one in my hand so I hope this helps somebody.

Startup video after rebuild (right click and save-as).
Engine running video after rebuild (right click and save-as).

Here are the four pistons removed:

• Engine Removal Pictures

After the engine was removed from the car, the head was then removed from the engine.

• Removed Head Pictures

The block was then stripped of the accesories.

• Stripping the Block

The following machine work was done to the block:

• Bore cylinders 0.5mm over the stock bore.
• Clean and hone the block.
• Install 8.5 compression ratio forged Ross pistons, and Ross racing rings.
• Shot-pean the stock rods.
• Balance the rotating assembly.
• Install Clevite crankshaft bearings.

The block was then assembled and painted with high temp paint.

• Assembling the Block

The head was sent to Alabama cylinder head where it was cleaned, the valves were re-seated, and it was pressure tested.  After installing the camshafts, the valve clearance was set.

• Installing the Head

Here are some pictures of the engine before it was installed back into the car:

• Engine about to be Installed

The engine was then installed from the bottom.

• Installing the Engine

The break in procedure could be done as follows:

1. Right before starting for the first time, put a cap-full of oil into each spark plug well.
2. Install and torque the spark plugs.
3. Fill the crankcase with non-synthetic oil.
4. Start the engine, and immediately hold the RPMs around 2000RPM for 1 to 2 minutes.
5. Set the ignition timing.
6. Bleed the coolant.
7. Drive the car gently until hot.
8. Use 50% throttle in 4th gear between 3000 and 4000RPM, then snap the throttle shut.  Use the lowest boost possible.
9. Repeat 10 times, then use 60% throttle, and up to 80% throttle – repeating each different throttle position multiple times.  This should help seat the rings.
10. Drive the car at under 4500RPM for about 200 miles at varying loads and RPMs, then change the oil.
11. Drive as above until 500 miles.
12. Change the oil again, and crank up the boost

I have never done this before on any car so it was all new to me. I knew several methods of removing them and didn’t think it would be difficult at all. Overall it was not difficult but I had some issues.

I have my complete control arm and strut rod off the car in one piece with the ball joint still attached.

I first attempted to use the hammer method. I removed the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut up to the top. I then placed a washer on top of the nut and started smacking it with a medium sized ball-pein hammer… didn’t come out.

So I figured I would try it on my newly purchased press. The press is more than enough to push it out but getting the item in there properly so it sits level and is resting on the area between the boot and control arm was not easy. I ended up getting some metal that was laying around and I had it all setup so it should push it straight out. After beginning to apply pressure the angle iron I had (1/4″ thick) started to bend… ball joint still not out.

After this I figured I would look for a price on the SST to do this. Partznet showed nothing so I searched on Google a bit to find it or others similar and didn’t come across anything except a pivot type separator.

I went back into the garage and figured I would try the pickle fork. I am not a fan of these because they can easily tear the boots and my ball joints were not showing signs of needing to be replaced. Infact they were showing signs of being replaced recently.

I got the pickle fork out, and then I thought about using a 2 jaw puller instead. Put the pickle fork back and found the 2 jaw puller.

I set it up so the two jaws of the puller were inbetween the boot of the ball joint and the control arm. The push rod of the puller was then directly on top of the ball joint stud. I started to tighten it down and before you knew it the ball joint was out.

Here is a picture of how I setup the puller on the second control arm. Once in this position all you do is crank the puller down with a wrench and in seconds the ball joint is out.

I will be calling Toyota one of these days to price the SST for this, if it is too expensive for me I will just continune to do it in this manner.

I used Grant’s procedure as outlined here:
http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/precat-removal/

In addition to his list of needed items, I found it helpful to have:

A torque wrench rated from 20-150 ft-lbs
A full assortment of ratchets, various 10, 12 and 14mm spanners
Craftsman 10, 12, and 14mm sockets both shallow and deep
An air compressor
A power drill
Box of sandwich bags, masking tape, and a pen
Tube of anti-seize bolt treatment
Can of WD-40
Can of Boeshield T-9
Can of matte black spray paint
Can of bolt loosener
A dozen shop rags
A roll of shop cloths
Shop light
A notebook
Bandages
Scotch, aspirin, Ibuprofin

I wrote down everything I did, in order. Each part that came off (bolt, nut, O2 sensor, etc.) went into a labeled baggie. Special notes were made if one bolt was longer than another, etc. Each removed item was stored with its hardware, and labeled.

Once the main heatshield was off, I painted it matte black. Since your car is going to be off the road a while, why not perform this upgrade? You’ll have plenty of time to apply the dozen or so coats necessary.

Eventually, you’ll get the header off. Expect major trouble with the three 14mm pre-cat to main cat bolts. The nuts are lock-nuts and will resist removal. The gasket set ran me $56 (including a set of three 14mm studs and locknuts). I needed a propane torch to heat one of them and I needed a garage to remove one broken stud.

Sooner or later, you’ll have the target isolated. At this point, I have 21.5K miles on the odometer. Oil consumption is approx. 1/2 quart per 3,000 miles. Visual inspection of the O2 sensor ports indicates no precat damage. Now’s the time to do it.

Still OK from the bottom – and the top looks the same. This is what I was hoping to find. Note that new studs and nuts have been installed. MrT did that for me for free, once I bought the parts. Otherwise, you’ll probably need an allen driver and a 14mm thread tap.

It took about 20 to 30 minutes to clear each chamber. Once you have a good bite on the polystyrene housing, they come out quick. A drill with a large-bore bit helped, but a long-shaft screwdriver and hammer were enough. I wore a mask, goggles, and gloves for most of the procedure – the material is considerably hazardous and I’d avoid contact with it. The header-to-manifold gasket has two indentations on the upper corners. These should be turned toward the front of the car.

If anyone needs this stuff, I’ve got a boxful. Although getting to this point may be time-consuming because of troubles and tool acquisition, consult your notes and reverse the procedure. Re-assembly only took about 4 hours. Here’s where labeled baggies and notes will pay off big time.

I found that it was best to attach all the nuts and bolts loosely, and then tighten them gradually. The upper heat shield didn’t want to sit right until I loosened up the mid-shield bolts, then the upper locked in. So just set the mid-shield bolts enough to grab, affix the upper shield, then lock down the mid-shield last. Put anti-seize on anything you think will be heated. Clean and wipe everything you have access to, including sways, rods, everything you can see. You won’t be down here again anytime soon, so make the most of the opportunity.

Didn’t throw the CEL on startup and went for a road test. Sound is far improved – just about on a par with my old ’71 MGB. Gurglier and poppier, and the lower-range sound is deeper and throatier. In the high revs, I’m hearing more of a “ripping” sound – and this mates perfectly with the TM duals. Volume isn’t increased but there’s more intimidation available. And now I can sleep easy. Total time: 1 week. Cost: approx. $250

I got the wiring diagrams for doing this at: http://www.kersur.net/~btillman/bob/garage/vw/side_marker/

Here’s the schematic courtesy of the above page.

Front

1) Pop hood, and turn headlights to the up & off position.

2) Remove the 4 screws holding the side garnish on one of the headlights.

3) Remove the side garnish and then remove the four 8mm bolts holding the cover over the light. Remove the cover.

4) This allows you access to the lighting loom. Peak under the light to the side of the car and you can remove the sidemarker by pulling on the rear edge (red arrow) and pushing out. Then using a pair of pliers remove the plastic clip (blue circle) holding the loom to the car.

5) Now looking to the front of the light, disconnect the turn signal/parking light connector. Then remove the other plastic clip.

6) Now feed the loom through the sidemarker hole to allow you room to do the mod.

7) Clip the ground wire from the sidemarker bulb and splice it into the wire from the turn signal light (G/Y passenger side, G/Blk driver side). Tape the other end of the ground on the body harness (i.e. leave it floating).

Retape the loom and assemble everything the opposite of removal.

9) Repeat for the other side.

Rear

1) In the rear trunk, remove the rear carpeted covering.

2) Disconnect the side marker bulb from the holder.

3) Remove the tail light connector from one of the assemblies.

4) Remove the assembly by pushing down the big clip and pulling out. Here’s the passenger side after removal.

5) Clip the ground (W/Blk) from the sidemarker bulb and tie it to the G/Y from the sidemarker. Just tape the other end of the ground that is tied to one of the bulb bases.

6) Here’s the finished product after solder & tape.

7) Repeat for the driver’s side.

Assembly opposite of removal.