Tools:

• 10mm Line Wrench
  12mm Line Wrench
  Regular Pliers
  Lift or Jack/Jack Stands

I used regular wrenches but it’s not advised.

1. Completely loosen fittings on both sides of the clutch line.

2. Remove both retainers.

3. Remove old line.

4. Install new line in its place making sure to align the fittings correctly.

5. Reinsert both retainers.

6. Tighten down both fittings.

Now you will need to refer to my How To: Bleed The Clutch.

The engine should be cool for this procedure, or you are likely to get burned.

First, you need to remove the ECU fuse or the positive battery terminal clamp. This allows the ECU to “reset” itself.

Seen here

What you’ll need to clean the MAF:MAF cleaner (the magazine article says choke & carb cleaner is OK too, but I just bought the dedicated stuff), Phillips head screwdriver

So, pop the hood and let’s see where this puppy lives.

Oh! There he is! (blue arrow)

Let’s get a little closer. Now he’s boxed in.

OK, now we know where he is. Let’s get started.

There’s a tab on the top of the MAF sensor wire harness. Push the tab down and pull the harness away from the MAF

There are 2 Phillips head screws to be removed, as indicated by the blue arrows. They’re little, so don’t lose them when you remove them!

Loosen the screws:

Remove the screws and put them somewhere safe.

Now the MAF will lift out:

You’re ready to clean it.

Here’s what you’re aiming for–the platinum wires in there. They can be damaged, so don’t put the spray nozzle directly in contact with them.

Spray the cleaner into the MAF to spray the platinum wires.

There is a little rubber O ring (blue arrow). The SpyderMagazine article mentions you might want to remove it on the chance the cleaner might make it brittle. I didn’t see the spray getting much on there, but you can also spray it with the MAF at an angle so the spray doesn’t get near the O ring.

Put the MAF back in the way it came out (there’s only one way it will fit), and tighten the screws.

Reconnect the MAF sensor wire harness by pushing it back into place.

…and VOILA! You’re done. Go have a beer, and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Or better yet, take the Spyder for a drive, THEN have that pat and beer.

When you clean the MAF, you should “reset” the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to put it through a “re-learning” process. You should do this when you clean the air filter, MAF, get new O2 sensors, spark plugs, injectors, a CAI, or exhaust and/or cat back system. Anything that affects the motor.

What you’ll need:

A Spyder! (year and color vary)

The engine should be cool when you perform this procedure, or you are likely to get burned.

–and a 10 mm wrench if you’re going to remove the negative battery terminal clamp.

You have 2 options: 1) remove the ECU fuse for 20+ minutes (preferred); or 2) remove the negative battery terminal for 20+ minutes. Although less time might be required for reset, it seems that 20+ minutes is the common method. For best results, remove the terminal or ECU fuse before you clean the MAF (or do whatever you’re doing to the car that necessitates the reset).

OPTION 1 (PREFERRED): Removing the ECU fuse. This method has less “collateral damage”–it will not lead to the loss of your radio presets or clock setting.

Where is it? It’s in the fuse box on the forward driver’s side portion of the engine bay, next to the battery.

There’s a small ‘catch’ on the front (frunk side) of the fuse box cover–push it in with your finger and lift up on that end of the cover. The cover will lift off. The rear catches are like hinges, so you pivot the cover and it will disengage from that side.

When you lift the cover off, it will be ‘upside down’–turn it 180 degrees so the diagram on the inside of the cover matches up with the fuses.

Examining the fuse diagram on the fuse box inside cover, you’ll see the ECU fuse as the 2nd one from the bottom on the left side (in the third slot–the lowest slot is empty in a stock Spyder). In this photo, the ECU fuse is outlined in blue boxes on the cover diagram and the fuse box itself. In the rear right corner of the box, there is a pair of plastic fuse pullers (they look like plastic tweezers) designed to safely remove the fuses (yellow arrow).

Remove the fuse pullers, squeeze the top together to separate the forks, and lower the forks over the fuse. Relax your grip on the top, and let the fuse pullers grasp the fuse. They will click into place.

Pull up gently on the fuse pullers (but don’t squeeze the top together, or they will let go of the fuse) to remove the ECU fuse.

Here is a view of the fuse box from the driver’s side of the car, with the ECU fuse removed.

Put it in a safe place.

Leave the fuse out for at least 20 minutes for the “reset” procedure.

To reinsert the fuse, use the fuse pullers to gently reinsert it into its proper receptacle. NOTE: the numbers on the top of the fuse will be upside down to you when inserted correctly (look at all of the fuses–the numbers face opposite your direction). Make sure you put it back in the same direction you removed it. It will click into place.

Release the fuse pullers’ grip on the fuse by pinching the top together and pulling upward. Put the fuse pullers back in their place.

Replace the cover by turning it back around (so the diagram is now upside down to you), hook the two catches on the rear end on the ‘hinges,’ and push down on the front of the cover until it clicks into place.

OPTION 2: Removing the NEGATIVE battery terminal clamp.

**NOTE: this will result in the loss of your radio presets and clock setting.

The battery is on the driver’s side of the engine bay. Here’s a hint–the positive battery terminal is the one with the red cover with the big PLUS sign on it.

Using a 10mm wrench, loosen (but do not remove) the nut on the negative terminal clamp.

When the clamp is sufficiently loose, grasp both sides of the clamp. Wiggle it back and forth and pull up gently, and it will come off the terminal.

To protect the terminal clamp while you work on other things (like the MAF sensor cleaning), you can wrap it in a cloth.

Leave the terminal disconnected for 20 minutes. To reconnect, simply place the terminal clamp back over the battery terminal and gently push it downward until it is firmly seated on the terminal. Using the 10 mm wrench, tighten the nut so the terminal clamp is firmly secured. If you have an SMT, you may hear the accumulator pump start up when you reconnect the terminal–it can be startling, so just be prepared.

So, now that THAT’S done, let’s move on to the nitty gritty. You can clean the MAF while the ECU fuse or battery terminal clamp is disconnected, to make the most efficient use of your time. See the separate page for cleaning the MAF.

I went along to one of the local coach trimmers and bought an off cut of material to match the seats as near as possible.

OFF CUT + ADHESIVE £10.00

Below is the photo record of how I did it

A SLIGHT MISS MATCH

FOLD BACK TAB AND REMOVE SCREW

PLACE FLAT SCREWDRIVER HERE AND GENTLY LEVER UPWARDS WHILE PUSHING WITH FINGER

THE SAME UNDERNEATH (The cover will easily pop out)

PULL MATERIAL FROM ONE OF THE CORNERS AND PEEL OFF

THIS WILL LEAVE THE OLD BACKING FOAM AND GLUE
AFTER SCRAPING OFF THE OLD FOAM (I used my thumb nail)

CLEAN THE REST OFF WITH WHITE SPIRITS, DON’T WORRY IF IT IS STILL STICKY TO THE TOUCH (Will explain later)

On the back of most material is a number with an arrow showing < (After the “2A”)
This is an indication of the “Nap” (Which way the fibres run)

USING THE OLD CLOTH AS A TEMPLATE MARK OUT THE NEW CLOTH (The ruler is just to hold the material for a flat line)

CUT THE EDGES AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE BUT LEAVE ABOUT 2MM SPARE ROUND THE DOOR HANDLE (The original size doesn’t leave a margin for error and the excess can be tucked in)

MASK THE EDGE OFF BY ABOUT 10MM (No adhesive needed here)

SPRAY AN EVEN LIGHT COAT OF IMPACT ADHESIVE ON THE CLOTH

Leave for ten minutes and place in position, there is no need to spray the door card itself as the sticky material left after cleaning is still usable and you can reposition to get the right fit without any bother

I TUCKED IN THE EDGES USING MY MORRISONS POINTS CARD (It wasn’t as stiff as a credit card)

LIKE THE CAR IT WAS GOOD ON CORNERS

RE FIT THE HANDLE AND THAT’S IT

BETTER THAN THE RED ME THINKS

Also if you’re unsure what the issue with your fan is check out my idiots guide to diagnosing a bad cooling fan.

Tools required:
1) 10mm wrench.
2) 8mm wrench/socket.
3) Medium sized Phillips screwdriver.

Optional:
1) Flat headed screwdriver

Now onto the install. Once you remove the frunk plastics you will be greeted with this site.

You’ll need to take off the two bolts (10mm) which have a red arrow going to them and remove the two bars they are holding. Then you will need to remove the two bolts that hold the fan assembly in. These are circled in green above and I have a close up picture with a red arrow pointing at one below.

^^This is why you need a 10mm wrench and not just a socket.
Next pull the wire out from all of the clips holding it in place. Two examples of these are circled in green below. Once that’s done push down on the black connector with a red arrow going to it so it pops off of it’s holder.

Now you can disconnect the plugs on the drivers side motor (pink arrow above) and the black plug that has a red arrow going to it. Below is a picture attempting to show where to push on the connector so you can pull it off. If you’ve ever worked with the other electrical connectors on this car these are no different. Basically you have to wrestle with it a little bit but eventually the thing will pop off. Just keep trying.

Now pull up on the whole fan assembly which will fully remove it (more on why that is in a bit). Once you can move the whole assembly around freely you can get the last connector shown in the picture below. Just put your fingernail or flat headed screw driver where mine is and pull that tab out and it should release quite easily.

Now you can also examine what it was that held in the fan assembly up until now. I have a picture of one of the connectors that slips in a slot on the assembly. This is useful information as you will need to make sure you get the slots lined up so the bottom is secured when you put the assembly back in at the end.

Next remove the nut holding on the fan blades (circled in red below) with a 8mm wrench/socket.

Once the blades are removed you can get to the three screws which are holding the motor in place (circled in red below).

The motor just slips right out at this point and it’s just a matter of doing the reverse of this whole process.

I also have a video to show how much extra resistance my old motor had compared to the one that still worked.

http://s20.photobucket.com/albums/b221/dar…es6-24-0830.flv

As for difficulty, on a scale of 1-10 (1 being cleaning your MAF) this is a 1.5 I would say. A very easy task which looks hard but probably would only take 15 minutes to half an hour.

Feel free to ask any questions or make comments!

These are designed to replace the oem rubber bushings in the engine compartment to improve feel at the gear stick.

I felt an install guide would be useful as there were a few things i would have done differently if i was doing this again.

Bought from speedsource here
Cost about £12 shipped.

In the packet.

First be aware that the two bushings differ slightly, one is marked L for lower, and goes on the lower of the two linkages.

I unplugged the passenger side 02 sensor to give a little more room.

First remove both cable ends, simply pull off the cotter pin and remove the top washer on each one, this allows you to lift the linkage and bushing off the shaft.

Now we need to remove the oem bushings you can see in the picture above.
This can be tricky, i found the best way was to push a slim flat blade screwdriver through the rubber then lever the bushing out.
Once out you are left with an empty ring.

And two oem bushings,

The instructions now tell you to remove the lower washers from the shaft, but mine had none.

Use the supplied piece of emery cloth to clean the shafts up if they require it.

Start with the lower of the two linkages at the left hand side as it will be easier to work on whilst the other is unattached. Place the speedsource bushing marked L in the ring with the groove to the top.
You now need to secure this by putting the e clip into the groove. I highly recommend you put a rag underneath the area you are working at to catch the e clip if it drops as it needs a fair amount of force to go on. I didn’t and subsequently lost an e clip.

Once the e clip is on replace the cotter pin with one of those supplied.

Repeat for the other linkage..

Job done.

Tbh, i have not noticed a great deal of difference, perhaps because my car has only 3000 miles on it, however Magicd from spyderchat who suggested these to me to compliment the che short shifter, found them to make a big difference.

And the one just to the left of it:

These two bushings are metal sleeves inside rubber washers inside the loops of the shifter-cable ends. When you shift, the pin that runs through the metal sleeve compresses the rubber that surrounds it, introducing a softness to the shifting process. Why did Toyota do this? One theory (posted at newcelica.org) is that the rubber bushings reduce potential vibration in the stick. It’s all part of the general automotive conspiracy to insulate the driver from the terrors of “road feel.” Well, we’re gonna correct that right now.

Here’s the kit:

Get it here: http://www.speed-source.net/
Or here: http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_inf…?products_id=78

A page of instructions comes with the bushings. None of the links to the speedsource online instructions work – they all deliver a “404.” So we’ll follow the paper directions. First, use pliers to remove the cotter pin on the upper (right) bushing:

Next, you remove a metal washer on top of the bushing, then you’re supposed to push at the bushing with the end of a screwdriver and it “should just pop out.” Well it doesn’t. You can lean on that sucker all day long and it’s going nowhere. I considered drilling it out, cutting it out with an Xacto knife, all kinds of stuff that would lead to a trip to the ER. Finally, I found a way to get leverage:

In the pic, you’ll see that I threaded a nut and washer combo on the end of a carriage bolt, then slipped that through the inner sleeve of the OEM bushing. By grabbing the end of the bolt with pliers, you can twist the bushing out just like popping a beer cap. Comes out like buddah. This is the trick I wanted to share with you.

Now clean the shifter bracket post, sand it lightly, grease it, and affix the brass insert. The instructions say to fit the insert to the end of the cable and clamp it in place with the e-clip. Don’t. Instead, affix the metal bushing to the post, then slip the cable bracket end over the bushing. And now lock it in place with the e-clip. This is much easier. The final result looks like this:

Once you’ve done the right (upper) bushing, the left (lower) bushing is easy to swap. The metal inserts are different, and the one for the lower arm is marked “L,” which conveniently is the same as the “L” in left.

Use heavy gloves or the bloody knuckles are on you.

Driving impressions
Aww yeah. More “snick-snick” action. Not quite the feel of a British gearbox, but this is as close as you’re gonna get it. Surprisingly, the shifting is not only more notchy, but it’s smoother too. Your 0 – 60 times may improve because the gears shift more cleanly and accurately. It’s like before they were approximating the target and now they hit it dead on, every time (2ZZ guys: this may be a defense against YAMS). I don’t know about you, but when I shift, I want to be a pro hitman putting the crosshairs on the target. Slam that stick, you’re in gear. This mod totally rocks.

Update: No apparent increase in stick vibration – the OEM bushings serve no purpose except adding play where you don’t want it.

Every car has different seat mounting locations. Therefore aftermarket seat manufacturers must sell brackets specific to the car. Sometimes this is included in the price, other times not. And almost always these brackets do not contain the sliders for adjusting the seats. These sliders are an even additional cost. The good news about this is that the stock MR2 seat brackets/sliders can be reused. It just takes a bit of work, and $5 worth of metal from Home Depot.

This writeup shows you how to do this using a set of Sparco Torino II’s. Just a bit of info about these seats if you are interested. These are a great comprimise between full on race seats and comfortable seats. They recline & include nice padding to make long trips or daily driving comfortable, while adding lots of support and side bolsters for more spirited driving. They are a bit on the heavy side though, especially once the mr2 sliders/brackets are added.

1) First of all detach the sliders from the stock seats. I purchased a spare set, so as not to destroy my stock seats. Sorry no pics of this step, but it’s straightforward. Here’s what you should end up with.

2) Now, use your favorite cut-off tool (Dremel) to remove all the unnecessary bits. The below picture shows what is safe to remove by the red lines. Do NOT remove what is circled in green. This is the mechanism for the slider adjuster.

3) Here’s pics of the progress. A good set of drill bits is nice to have to drill out these rivets. Again, do not remove anything marked in green.

I didn’t realize before I started priming that I could also remove this other set of teeth. The red circles mark the welds to be drilled out. Make sure you are removing the teeth from the rail WITHOUT the handle.

4) Once stripping all the now useless bits test fit the rails into the car.

5) Measure the lengths needed for the flat bar to go across the rails. I used 3/8″ steel that I purchased at Home Depot. You can now cut the lengths of the bar. Cutting a bit long wouldn’t hurt.

6) Make a template for the bolt locations on the new seat. Here’s pic of template I used. Use this template to figure out where to drill holes in the flat bar. Since the MR2′s steering wheel is shifted about one or two inches toward the center console, I tried to push the seat as far toward the console as possible. This took some test fitting of the seat in the vehicle.

7) Drill the holes in the bar and temporarily mount to the seat.

Now, fit the seat into the car to mark wear the bar should be welded to the rails. This is a bit cumbersome since there’s not much room (much less light) under there to work.

9) Tack weld the bars to the rails and do another test fit. Making sure the seat slides smoothly front to back. And to make sure its not crooked. Make any adjustments to the bar locations as needed. Then get to welding the bars permanently to the rails.

10) Grind the welds pretty and primer everything.

Painted black.

11) Fitted to the seat (pic is prior to paint of course). Use some threadlocker on the bolts into the seat. These are a pain to get to when the seat is installed in the car, so you don’t want these coming loose.

12) Installed and repeat for the other seat.

I don’t have any pics of the headliner removal process, but it’s fairly straightforward. Just a lot of little things.

1) Slide off the cover to the rear view mirror. Remove the 2 screws underneath to remove the mirror.

2) Remove the 2 screws holding each sunvisor in place. Remove the clips that each sunvisor clips into as well.

3) Remove the A-pillar trim pieces on each side. This are held in place by 3 or 4 hidden clips under the trim piece.

4) Remove the “oh-no!” handle on the passenger side and the trim piece under it. Remove that same trim piece from the driver’s side.

5) Remove the cover from the interior light, using a screwdriver to pry one edge out. Remove the 4 screws holding the light in place.

6) Remove the trim piece in the upper rear that was behind the light.

7) The directions here will differ depending if you have sunroof, t-top or hardtop. If hardtop I would assume the headliner should now come off. I’m not sure what needs done on the t-tops. On sunroof models, remove the sunroof, then dismantle the latch from the roof. This allows you to remove the weatherstripping from around the sunroof opening. You can then remove the headliner.

Thoroughly wash each piece that you will be dying and let dry. Then pain the pieces as directed on the spray can. Here are some comparison pictures of undyed vs. dyed.

9) Installation is opposite of removal. Here’s some pics after installation. It looks better in person than in the pics.

Just some reference pics of the headliner removed.

Things to remember:
Cap off coolent hoses
Protect fuel lines from contaminants and dont loose the banjo bolts and crush washers.
DONT CUT your wire harness, if your using a stock ECU you will be grafting the old MR2 harness into your V6 harness.

Keep the stock starter relay, you may remove the fan control and the stock ECU

The following is exactly the same for 3s or 5s swaps.

When your engine arrives check it over for sludge. Keep in mind some of the V6′es have been in grandmas car and may not have seen much attention.

This motor is a 5VZ but the swap is nearly identical to all other swaps. Notice the complete lack of motor mount on the front of the engine.

This is the 3S flywheel sitting on the 5VZ crank. I suggest replacing the 5VZ flywheel with a 1MZ wheel rather than modifying the 3s wheel.

The 3S-GTE pully fits right onto the 5VZ crank, the 5S pully should too. Remember to RE-mark the 4cly crank pully, the timing marks are in a different location than on the v6

You can not use the 5VZ spacer plate because the starter is on the opposite side. You will need to “modify” the 3S or 5S plate.

1MZ flywheel with MR2 TURBO pressure plate and disk

Here you can see an issue with the axel from the turbo transmission and the 5VZ block. There is no mount location for the axel holder. You will need to make an adapter that will bolt into the motor mount location.

Yes you CAN drop the motor and transaxel in from the top, by yourself I would say even the 4.0 v6 should fit through the top.

Here you can see a prototype adapter for the turbo axel. This should give you a good idea of how everything could bolt up without needing to machine the axel .

This is the coolant outlet on the 5VZ. Since its from a truck it faces the wrong way and needs to be cut and reshaped. I used an angle grinder, torch and bigass hammer. EDIT: the plastic 3VZ-FE coolant outlet bolts up and requires no moddification

 Here is the Cummings turbo coolant F pipe that works perfectly as a coolant fill pipe and heater core hose.

Sorry these are blurry but it serves as a warning to everyone planning a swap. You should get your ECU, harness and, engine from the same year. Toyota was nice enough to move some pins around between 96 and 98 so I had to MAKE my own ECU connector with DB25 computer pins and hot glue. Can you say “GHETTO” I think I can

You can swap all the mount plates from your 5s ECU or 3s to the OBDII ecu and it will mount in the stock location. I have an intercooler pipe running through there so I mounted it on the trunk floor.

Good luck.

Jim

[AndrewMcG]

I thought I would add a couple picks to this thread since I have yet to see any real good pictures of Jim’s motor mount actually mounted on the engine. I had a hard time picturing it until I had one in my hand so I hope this helps somebody.