I have never done this before on any car so it was all new to me. I knew several methods of removing them and didn’t think it would be difficult at all. Overall it was not difficult but I had some issues.

I have my complete control arm and strut rod off the car in one piece with the ball joint still attached.

I first attempted to use the hammer method. I removed the cotter pin and loosened the castle nut up to the top. I then placed a washer on top of the nut and started smacking it with a medium sized ball-pein hammer… didn’t come out.

So I figured I would try it on my newly purchased press. The press is more than enough to push it out but getting the item in there properly so it sits level and is resting on the area between the boot and control arm was not easy. I ended up getting some metal that was laying around and I had it all setup so it should push it straight out. After beginning to apply pressure the angle iron I had (1/4″ thick) started to bend… ball joint still not out.

After this I figured I would look for a price on the SST to do this. Partznet showed nothing so I searched on Google a bit to find it or others similar and didn’t come across anything except a pivot type separator.

I went back into the garage and figured I would try the pickle fork. I am not a fan of these because they can easily tear the boots and my ball joints were not showing signs of needing to be replaced. Infact they were showing signs of being replaced recently.

I got the pickle fork out, and then I thought about using a 2 jaw puller instead. Put the pickle fork back and found the 2 jaw puller.

I set it up so the two jaws of the puller were inbetween the boot of the ball joint and the control arm. The push rod of the puller was then directly on top of the ball joint stud. I started to tighten it down and before you knew it the ball joint was out.

Here is a picture of how I setup the puller on the second control arm. Once in this position all you do is crank the puller down with a wrench and in seconds the ball joint is out.

I will be calling Toyota one of these days to price the SST for this, if it is too expensive for me I will just continune to do it in this manner.

You may want to attempt to loosen the top strut bolt before jacking up the car.  This is the bolt located under the strut tower cover and is a 19mm bolt.  If the assembly moves when you turn the bolt, it can be removed later.  Only loosen this bolt a small amount, under no circumstances should you remove this bolt at this time.  Jack up the car, and remove the wheel. 

Rear Struts:
Rear strut assembly (spring, housing and strut) before removing:


Start by removing the anti-roll bar that connects to the strut housing.

Then remove the brake line ‘C’ clip, and brake line from the caliper.  Hang the brake line out of the way.

Remove the speed sensor cable, but do not remove the speed sensor.

Loosen the top four bolts that hold the strut in place, and then remove the large lower bolts.

The assembly can now be removed after removing the top four bolts.  You will have to push down on the rotor/hub to get enough clearance to remove the strut housing assembly.  It’s a good idea to put some sort of rag (underwear) to protect the CVT boot.
 

If you loosened the top strut bolt (19mm) before, it will make the next step easier.  If you are removing stock springs, you will need a spring compressor.  Please be careful as there can be a large amount of energy stored in the spring!  With the spring compressor installed, remove the top 19mm bolt and spring.  
Removing the gland nut can be difficult.  Soaking it in WD40 or other penetrating lubricant can help.  Then a pipe wrench and vice can be used to remove the nut.  I choose to paint the old components, and then install the new strut.
Pour a small amount of oil into the housing, and install the new strut.  The oil should take up the space between the strut and the housing.  Make sure not to over-fill it since you will need some space to tighten down the gland nut.

Then install a new boot.

Next the spring.

Lubricate the top piece.

Install the top using the 19mm bolt and spring compressor (if necessary).  Make sure to point the top mount piece toward the large bolt holes on the strut housing.  Tighten the bolt using a torque wrench and vice to hold the top.

Install the rear strut by pushing down on the hub/rotor and move the assembly into place.  Hand tighten the top four bolts.

Install the anti-roll bar to the strut housing.

Install the brake line and speed sensor line.

Don’t forget the ‘C’ clamp on the brake line.  Tighten the large bottom two bolts to 180ft-lb.  Tighten the top four strut assembly bolts to specification.

Front Struts:
Here is the old assembly in place.
 
The first step is to remove the anti-roll bar hook up to the strut housing.  This can be done in two places.  I found it easier to reach the bottom location.  You will most likely need a hex driver and 14mm wrench to remove this bolt.

Next remove the brake line.  You must remove the ‘C’ clip on the strut housing and the bolt on the caliper.

Then hang the brake line up with a string or wire so that it is out of the way and not dripping.

Next remove the speed sensor bolt.  You do not need to remove the sensor itself, there is plenty of slack in the speed sensor cable.

The four top strut bolts can now be loosened.

The large bottom bolts can now be removed.

Now the hub can move out of the way.

The top strut bolts can now be removed, and the whole spring/strut/strut housing assembly can come out.  
If there are stock springs installed, you will need to use a spring compressor to compress the spring so that it doesn’t fly off when you remove the strut bolt (19mm) at the top of the strut bar.  If you have loosened this bolt earlier on, great!  Otherwise you will have to hold the assembly in a vice while removing this bolt.  I’ve found that the Eibach springs I had installed didn’t need to be compressed.  Please be careful as there can be a large amount of energy stored in the springs.
Now comes the hard part.  Removing the gland nut can be somewhat difficult.  I recommended soaking it in WD40, or some other penetrating lubricant.  Then remove it with a pipe wrench.  If this doesn’t work, you can try to put the assembly in a vice, with the vice holding the gland nut.  Then use some extensions to twist the assembly.

Pour a small amount of oil into the housing, and install the new strut.  The oil should take up the space between the strut and the housing.  Make sure not to over-fill it since you will need some space to tighten down the gland nut.

Install a new boot.

Install the spring.  Line up the ‘larger end’ with the bottom.

Clean out the bearing and re-lubricate them.

Line up the top strut mount so that the ‘OUT’ faces the part of the strut housing that points toward the outside of the car (the part of the strut housing with the large bolts).  It also must be lined up with the top of the strut bar as shown.

You may need to use a spring compressor in order to tighten the 19mm bolt.  If you cannot tighten the 19mm bolt to the torque specifications, you can install the assembly, lower the car down, and then tighten the bolt.  Point the top piece (four studs) with cut-out toward the back of the car.

Install the assembly and just hand tighten the top four bolts.

Tighten the lower two bolts to 180ft-lbs.

Re-install the brake line, C-clip, and bolt for the speed sensor line.  Tighten the top four strut assembly bolts to specification.

Adjustable KYB AGXs:

Fuel line

Contrary to what was previously on this page, the 16V fuel line fits fine with no modifications (both SC & NA). I mistakenly used the 20V line which needed to be extended. Sorry about that.
 

Throttle Cable

For neatness this needs to be extended a couple feet. If not, the cable will have to drape over the engine. I combined the MR2 cable with that of the 20V.

Here’s the steps and pics:

- Cut the ends of each off with pliers, being careful not to cut the actual cable.
- Strip the protective rubber about 1/2″ back exposing the metal structure of the cable housing.
- Measure/mark the length of cable needed for when your foot is off the gas pedal & when it’s all the way down. Do the same on the extension end, this time using the actual throttle assembly. If you need to expose more cable on either side, cut off more of the housing.
- Once you get the lengths right, using a 1/16″ ferrule (you may need to enlarge the hole to allow both cables to fit), crimp the 2 cables together.
- Using some 5/16″ ID fuel hose I had sitting around, that acts as a protective covering for the exposed cable/ferrule. Make sure the crimped ferrule can slide through it easy enough.
- Use some heat shrink tubing on the ends of the joint to keep moisture & dirt out.
- Then some clamps to hold the hose onto the metal housing

Alternator Bracket

The 20V has a huge alternator bracket with an idler pulley so that the belt doesn’t interfere with the chassis. You can reuse the 16V NA bracket on the 20V block. However, on the blacktop you will need to cut away some material to clear the hydraulic timing belt tensioner.

Before:

After:

Oil Pressure Sender

Use the 16V oil pressure sensor, as the Trueno/Levins just have an idiot light instead of a gauge.

Clutch/Flywheel Info

If you are replacing the clutch or flywheel make sure to get one for a C series transmission. The MR2 SC clutch/flywheel will NOT fit. The shaft on the C series trannies are smaller than the E series.

Mounting (ECU, MAP, Ignitor/Coil, Coolant Overflow Bottle)

Fab mounts for the ECU in the new driver’s side location.

For the blacktop, mount the MAP sensor at a convenient location near the #1 intake side. I used an existing welded nut on the chassis.

Same goes with the ignitor & coil, but this time near #4. I chose a place on the strut tower. 2 bolts fit perfectly in existing holes. A third hole was drilled and tapped.

Since the filler neck was on the opposite side of the engine bay, I had to use a different location for the overflow bottle. I decided to use a different bottle altogether since mine was weathered pretty bad. Just using a cheapo from Autozone at the moment.

Vaccuum Lines

The 20V has 2 brake booster lines coming off the TBs. Luckily both are on the #1 side of the engine, making it easy to route the hose to the MR2′s single booster line. I used the one that comes of the #4 TB, since the #1′s fitting can be easily removed and a bolt inserted to block it off.

You can also block of a line that was used for the power steering system in the Levin/Trueno. Near the fuel rail by #4 cylinder there should be 3 hoses, each of distinct sizes. It’s the middle sized hose that can be capped.

Crank Pulley

If you have the Silvertop, make sure to use the 16V crank pulley and timing marker. This helps with adjusting the ignition timing. On the blacktop, you can’t use the 16V timing marker since it uses a different tensioner. However, make sure to paint marks along the crank pulley, on all edges. The belt gets in the way of the inside mark making it hard to see.

Decklid Latch

The intake box on the Blacktop interferes with the engine latch. So grind away at the latch until there’s room. I had to bend one side of the latch slightly, as well as remove the bottom bolt hole to make room for the coupling to the air filter.

Axles & Tranny Stiffener

The Levins and Truenos have equal length drive shafts. Unfortunately these shafts are an inch or 2 too long to use in the MR2. The MR2 axles fit fine of course, so it may be possible to Frankenstein something together. The cup of the 20V extension shaft on the passenger side is too large for the MR2′s tulip joints. You may be able to remove the tulip joint from the 20V axle and refit it to the MR2′s axle. I’m not sure. This is something I may try later, as I have a spare driver’s side MR2 axle.

Also, if you use the MR2 axles, the 20V tranny stiffener will not fit. You can either grind away some of the material to make the stiffener fit, or just run without it. To make it fit I believe you need to chop 1 corner off, using one less bolt holding it in place.

Intake pipe removed.

Remove the throttle body pipe (Four 12mm bolts) and throttle body stay.

Remove the throttle body air tube and disconnect the throttle position sensor.  The air tube is located on the bottom side of the throttle body and is a fairly large diameter air tube.  It can be seen in the following picture under the throttle body.

Remove the throttle cable – two 12mm bolts.

The cold start injector pipe needs to be removed by unbolting the two union bolts.

Cold start fuel pipe removed.

The EGR components need to be removed next.  There are two Allen bolts to be removed.  These can be tight, so I used a set of pliers to twist the Allen wrench.  Then remove the other bolts holding on the EGR components.

EGR removed.

The fuel union bolt is removed next.  This one has been tapped for fuel pressure readings.

Injectors can now be unplugged.

After un-bolting the two bolts that hold the wiring harness cover, the fuel rail can be coaxed out.  The wiring harness must be pulled up some before the rail will come out.

Supra Twin Turbo fuel injectors.

Fuel rail without injectors.

When installing different injectors, it’s a good idea to replace the various gaskets.  There are 4 small insulators that go on top of each injectors and the same insulator goes on the bottom of each injector on the inside of the rail.  There are 4 large insulators that go on the bottom of each injector port on the outside of the fuel rail.  The O-rings on each injector (there are two – a large and small) should also be replaced.  When installing the rail, be sure that the large rubber insulators that go on the fuel rail do not fall off!  This has happened to be numerous times – just check the garage floor before bolting the rail down.  It is not necessary, but probably a good idea to replace the copper crush washers on the union bolts for the cold start pipe and the fuel rail.  Leaks in the fuel system are generally a very bad thing!  There are also the two metal gaskets for the throttle body and the short throttle body inlet pipe that may or may not need to be replaced.  If you start the car and it barely runs, or runs very poorly, chances are the rail did not seal.

*Procedure of pressing the bushings out with just 2/3 jaw pullers courtesy of Dale Conner & Bill Merton from MR2 forum

Front Removal

1) Here’s a picture of what all is replaced in the TRD bushing set: strut top (green), control arm (purple), & strut arm (red). So, you need to remove the strut assembly & the two arms. The steering knuckle will be close to being removed, as it will still be attached to the tie rod end. If you don’t believe you need to replace the tie rod end bushing (which you need to purchase the entire end, not just bushing if you do), you can skip that step.

2) I would suggest loosening the strut bar nut first. If you have a deep well 22mm socket, you can use a ratchet. Else, a 22mm wrench will work.

3) Loosen lugnuts. Raise and support the front of the vehicle. Remove wheels.

4) Just for sake of simplicity for this page, I’m going to point you to other pages where I go over the strut assembly and steering knuckle removal. If you do not want to replace the strut top, or have the Fensport bushing set (which does not include a new strut top) then you do not need to remove the strut assembly.

• Strut Assembly Removal
• Steering Knuckle Removal

5) Measure the length of ‘A’ below, so that caster can be put back to the correct spot.

6) Remove the strut arm from the control arm, by removing the two 17mm nuts.

5) Remove the bolt that you loosened in step 1. You should then be able to remove the strut bar. Here’s some pics of it.

And disassembled. The 2 bushings (green arrows) are to be replaced by TRD ones. And the collar (red arrow) needs to be replaced with a new one from the dealer.

6) If you aren’t replacing the ball joints, skip this step.

I’d suggest removing the ball joint from the control arm at this point. Unless you have a vice handy. I placed a jack under the control arm to raise it up and then use a 2 or 3 jaw puller to pop it out. Beware, the ball joint will literally POP up once it is loose. So keep away from inside the fenderwell while you tighten the puller. (The below picture was taken before I actually got the ball joint off. That’s what the strut arm is there, and the jack isn’t.)

 

7) Remove the 17mm bolt holding the control arm to the frame of the car.

Here’s a pic of the control arm out of the car (ball joint is still in place):

If you’ve noticed, there’s only one bushing per side that needs pressed out in the front, the one in the end of the control arm. Here’s some pics of how I went about doing it. The “pusher” part of the puller I used was big enough that it didn’t fit inside the bushing, so I was able to just use it, instead of using a stack of washers. It would probably be easier to put the control arm in a vice, but since I didn’t have one at the time, I tried it without. It was surprisingly easy, just have the cheater bar handy. Here’s some pics of the different steps as I was pushing it out with a 2 jaw puller.

Front Control Arm Bushing Install

1) Here’s a pic of the new TRD bushing beside the control arm. Notice the tapered end, you will need to press that end in first.

2) Lube up the bushing with some grease. I just used some white lithium grease, since that’s all I had around. Silicone grease would probably work better.

3) Carefully position the 2 parts in a table vise and start squeezing the bushing in. Make sure everything is going in straight. It may help to have an extra pair of hands to help hold and turn the vise handle.

4) After a while, you will not be able to push the bushing in any further without damaging your vise. Trust me on this…my brand new vise now has a slightly bent handle.

5) Quickly reposition the control arm in the vise, and place your 2 jaw puller over the bushing. Use a few fender washers to disperse the force so that the entire bushing is pushed in instead of just the middle piece. Don’t just use one or 2 washers either, use at least 3 or 4. The bushing laughs at using just 2 washers, as they will just bend and be destroyed like crazy. Use some tape or super glue to hold the washers in place while you position the puller. An assistant is nice here as well.

6) Eventually after applying much force onto the bushing (you may need to use a cheater bar to turn the puller), You can see the other end popping out and locking the bushing into place.

7) Remove the puller once you are certain the bushing is all the way in. And clean up the excess grease.

Install the control arm back onto the car. Do not tighten al the way to spec yet.

Front Stut Bar Bushing Install

This should be fairly straightforward.

1) Here’s the pieces how they go back onto the strut bar:

2) Place one of the nuts to the original position. Remember the measurement you took back in step 1? Then place one of the retainers, a new collar, and a bushing. Notice the smaller end of the bushing is toward the end of the strut bar.

3) Then place the strut bar back on the car. Add the other bushing, retainer, lock washer and the other nut. Start tightening the nut down. Insert the 2 bolts at the end of the strut bar to the control arm, once the nut pulls the bushings tight enough.

4) Here’s the strut bar and control arm in place with their new bushings.

5) Reinstall the various other pieces you removed to get to the suspension arms.

6) Before attaching the wheel, jack up the corner of the car via the control arm. Raise it up until it gets into it’s normal position, as if the car was lowered onto the ground. Tighten the suspension arms’ nuts and bolts to spec. This is so the bushings aren’t twisted when the wheels are installed & the car is lowered to the ground.

Tools Needed:

• Various sockets, wrenches, & ratchet
• 2 or 3 jaw puller
• Jack & stands

1) Loosen wheel lugnuts. Raise and support front of car, and remove wheel.

2) There’s 2 different ways you could go about doing this. First, here’s probably the ‘proper’ way. I’ll let you decide which will be easier.

1-3) Remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the knuckle to the ball joint. Ignore the strut assembly, rotor, and caliper being off…

1-4) Remove the 2 nuts holding the strut arm to the control arm. The control arm should then fall down toward the ground. If not, you may need to loosen the bolt holding the arm to the chassis.

1-5) Remove the cotter pin & castle nut from the ball joint, and attach your 2 or 3 jaw puller. Beware, the ball joint will literally POP out of the control arm, so keep away from inside the fenderwell while you tighten it down.

Now here’s another way…i haven’t tried it this way so it may not work as well as I envision it to.

2-3) Remove the 2 nuts holding the strut arm to the control arm.

2-4) Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the ball joint. Hit the top of the control arm near the hub with a mallet. Give it a good whack. That should loosen the ball joint from the control arm. This way you don’t have to bother with a 2 or 3 jaw puller. The control arm should fall to the ground once it is loose.

2-5) Remove the ball joint from the hub by removing the two 14mm bolts.

6) Here’s the new ball joint:

11) Bolt it onto the steering knuckle.

12) Now, place the steering knuckle onto the control arm and tighten down the castle nut. Insert new cotter pin.

13) The rest of the assembly is opposite the removal.

Tools Needed:

• Various sockets, wrenches, & ratchet
• 2 or 3 jaw puller (don’t get them from Harbor Freight! they stink!)
• Jack & stands

1) Loosen wheel lugnuts. Raise and support front of car, and remove wheel.

2) Remove caliper by the two 12mm bolts. Then remove the two 17mm bolts that attach the mounting brackets to the steering knuckle, indicated below. Remove the mounting bracket and brake pads from the rotor.

3) The rotor should then pull off.

4) Hang the caliper from the strut assembly, or if you removed the assembly like me, then hang it from the strut top bolt holes in the frame. This is so you don’t put any tension on the brake lines.

5) At this point, I would remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. If you have the strut assembly in place, the hub is solidly in place. (I probably should have done this before removing the strut assembly to make it alot easier…) Anyway, remove the cotter pin and 17mm bolt from the bottom of the tie rod end. Attach a 2 or 3 jaw puller to pop the tie rod out of the steering knuckle.

6) Scribe a mark in the strut bracket to indicate the current camber position. (Ignore the loose bolt and the brake line…)

7) Remove the steeering knuckle from the strut assembly, two 17mm nuts/bults. (Ignore the brake line.)

Remove the two 14mm bolts that hold the knuckle to the ball joint.

The steering knuckle should then fall in your lap and you are ready to take it to a machine shop to have them press out/in the wheel bearings. Or if you have the proper tools, you can do it yourself. I just took it to a shop, $25 for one hub.

9) Now would be a good time to change the ball joint and tie rod end if you haven’t in a long while.

10) The installation is opposite the removal.

*Procedure of pressing the bushings out with just 2/3 jaw pullers courtesy of Dale Conner & Bill Merton from MR2 forum

Rear Removal

1) Here’s a pic of what the rear TRD bushing set replaces: strut top (blue), control arm (purple), & strut arm (yellow & red). So you will need to remove the strut assembly and the 2 arms. The inner tie rod bushing is not included with the kit. The only way to order it from Toyota is to purchase the actual inner tie rod which runs about $50 from the dealer. The axle carrier does not need to be removed completely. It will still be attached to the drive shaft and the tie rod end.

2) Loosen lug nuts, raise & support the rear of vehicle with jack stands. Remove wheel. (Ignore that the caliper is removed below.)

3) If you have new TRD strut tops you need to remove the strut assemblies. If you have the set from Fensport, or don’t feel like removing the strut assemblies, goto step 4.

To save space on this page, goto my Rear Strut Removal page.

4) Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the bottom of the axle carrier to the lower control arm’s balljoint. Then remove the control arm from the body of the car, 17mm bolt.

5) Remove the 17mm bolt and nut holding the strut arm to the body of the car. May need to remove one bolt of the underbody cover to get to the bolt.

6) The strut arm and control arm should come out of the car together. You can then separate them by removing the 22mm bolt & the various other parts holding them together. (The below pic is with the ball joint removed)

7) Here’s pics of the removal of the control arm & strut rod bushings.

Rear Strut Arm Bushing Install

1) Take the new bushing and lube it up with some grease. Notice that one end of the bushing is tapered, while the other is not.

2) Position the bushing and strut arm in the vice and start pushing the bushing in. Make sure everything goes straight.

This is about as far as you can get with the vice.

3) Now, reposition the strut arm in your vice, and attach your 2/3 jaw puller.

Use a few fender washers to apply the pressure evenly across the bushing.

4) The other end of the bushing should pop out once it’s completely in place. Wipe off the excess grease.

Rear Control Arm Bushing Install

Do the same for the control arm bushing.

Rear Strut/Control Arm Bushings Install

This needs to be done when putting the arms back onto the car.

1) Install the strut arm back onto the car.

2) Place the retainer, new collar, new bushing, and then the control arm….

3) Another new bushing, retainer, and the nut. Just tighten the nut by hand.

4) And then install the control arm onto the body of the car

5) Tighten down the strut/control arm bushing 22mm nut.

6) Reinstall the rest of the parts you removed to get to the suspension arms.

7) Before attaching the wheel, jack up the corner of the car via the control arm. Raise it up until it gets into it’s normal position, as if the car was lowered onto the ground. Tighten the suspension arms’ nuts and bolts to spec. This is so the bushings aren’t twisted when the wheels are installed & the car is lowered to the ground.

All you need to upgrade your 85/86 to the bigger 87+ rotors are the rotors themselves and the caliper mounting brackets. If you want to go all out for this upgrade, you will need the dust shields from the 87+. You’ll need new brake pads too, since you are using new rotors. Any year brake pads will work, they are all the same.

*Note: You will probably notice that I mixmatched front and rear pics throughout this writeup. I’m not trying to confuse you, it’s just the best pics I had when I threw this page together.

1) First off, put the car on jackstands, and remove the wheel.

2) Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the caliper to it’s mounting bracket. Slide the caliper out of the way and secure it in place so as not to bind or put pressure on the brake line.

3) Remove the two 17mm bolts circled below holding the mounting bracket to the hub. (Ignore the fact that the strut assembly is removed from the hub, you don’t have to do that.) Remove the mounting bracket and brake pads off from the rotor.

4) Remove the rotor from the hub. It should just wiggle right off, but it could be stuck on there good. You may need to get two bolts the proper size to push the rotor off the hub.

5) Now you need to decide what to do with the dust shield. There’s 3 possibilities, each involve snipping off part of the shield:

• Replace it with the larger 87+ dust shield
• Cut/Trim it to fit the rotor
• Remove it completely

“Can’t be done. The tabs where the axle carrier (hub) mount to the struts on 85-86 are too thin to accommodate the wider 87+ hub assy. And larger bolts are used on the 87+, as well. You’d have to shave down the edge of the hub and drill the holes in the strut to do this. Ah…so I’ll just change the entire strut assembly…solves that problem, right?

“Next problem…the big metal pieces that the strut arm and control arm bolt to (that are bolted on right behind the engine compartment) are different. No problem…I’ll just shorten the control arm by using the 87+ arm and thereby account for the fact that the 87+ axle assembly’s control arm mounting point sticks out farther. Wrong. The angle is too steep and you end up with an amazing amount of rear wheel toe-in. )…

“Okay…so those damn mounting blocks need to be swapped, too. Wrong. The mounting holes on the frame are in different spots between 86 and 87+. Only one really lines up and without significant modification, those 87+ blocks simply won’t bolt on. Even IF you managed to do all this, remember to swap your ball joints while you’re at it. The mounting bolts for the 87+ are much larger and the 86 ball joints won’t bolt up. “

• Remove the three bolts holding the dust shield on the 87+ assy.
• Cut a wedge out of the bottom of the dust shield wide enough that you can wiggle it free of the hub assy.
• Remove the 85-86 hub the same way.
• Slide the 87+ shield on the 85-86 hub.
• Note points of interference, especially where the strut arm mounts up.
• Cut away material or bend as necessary to make the shield work.

Remove the 3 torx bolts. Just use a 10mm socket to remove them. Here’s a pic of the bolts, there’s a third one on the opposite side as well. You have to go at these at an angle, becuase the hub is in the way. It also took a pair of pliers on the nut driver to get these loose.

Now the dust shield should be loose. However, you can’t just pull it off over the hub. So you need to cut a slot in it so you can. Do that in the spot below with a dremel or rotozip type tool.

I ended up having to cut off more than indicated above, since the metal was not as flexible as I thought. Used the side-cutting bit on a Rotozip. Here’s the dust shields off, to show you how much you need to cut off.