Tools necessary:
-10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm wrenches (ratcheting kind is super handy)
-10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets
-ratchets and extensions for said sockets (the air variety will save time)
-channel lock pliers (handy for removing spring clips)
-cable, wire or string (for tieing stuff out of your way)
-clean table top or other horizontal surface, so you can
place the parts out of the way and not lose them
-cherry picker or lift (to pick the car up off of the engine)
-dolly of some kind (to roll the drivetrain out from under the car)
-catch can for coolant (you can drain this at any time, I choose
to do it when I first lift the car up over my head because its
convenient.
-catch can for transmission oil (if you take the axles out, I do
not take them out of the transmission in this walk through. If
I did, I would drain the transmission first to avoid a mess.)
-flathead screw driver
-common sense (please do not be a booger eating moron and get
yourself killed, people will laugh at your obituary.)

Suggested Tools:
-impact wrench (with one of these the tight bolts you encounter
do not pose as much of a threat to your knuckles and your cereal
will taste better the next day.)
-bright portable lights (if I have to explain why, you should not be
reading this and you are a booger eating moron.)
-plenty of room to work (will also make your cereal taste better
the next day.)

Time Needed to Drop:
This was done in 3 hours and 45 minutes of actual wrench time. That includes the 15-20 minute call I had to make to Blitzo because I got stuck and also includes doing several things out of order and needlessly raising and lowering the car. If I were to do this again in the order laid out in this document, I could have this joker out in 1.5 – 2 hours without breaking a sweat from the halogen lights.

Another handy thing to have is a cushy place for your butt. I don’t know about the rest of the world but I enjoy sitting on mine. Especially when I’m “working”.

btw – I also suggest not doing this in the FREAKING cold. It required me to wear gloves because I can’t work when my hands go numb. I generally hate using gloves because I lose a lot of fine dexterity with my fingers, but given my choices I think I picked the better option. I wholeheartedly suggest you invest in a pair if it is FREAKING cold where you plan to do this swap.

Before you get started, I suggest removing the battery. As you can see, I didn’t do that immediately – however I do recomend it first priority as far as safety for the mobile goes.

All setup on the lift, ready to work. I do not condone this type of action with one of these lifts. It is not designed to have the ass end of a car hanging off of it like I did. However, I didn’t see why it wouldn’t work so I did it anyway.

Gratuitous butt shot.

Off with the wheels. The lug wrench that came with the Spyder will do, but the impact made it nicer. 21mm socket, if anyone is curious.

Both rear wheels need to be removed.

As you can see the two 10mm bolts holding the license plate have been removed along with the plate. Do not forget about these small electrical clips. Leaving them on when you pull the bumper skin off will embarass you in front of your friends.

Hit all three 10mm screws that are on each side of the bumper skin. Two are where I have my ratchet placed, one is hiding up in the wheel well but is easy enough to spot.

This needs to be done on both sides.

Pop the hood

While hard to see, I’m removing one of the two 10mm bolts that secure the tail light in place.

This needs to be done for both lights.

Removing the electrical clip that is attached to the tail light housing.

This needs to be done for both lights.

Removing the two 10mm bolts that secure the bumper skin to some actual metal under the tail lights.

This needs to be done for both sides.

Using a flathead screwdriver to pop up the five (less if you tend to lose them like me) plastic clips that secure the bumper skin along the top.

Carefully pulling the bumper skin off. Make sure you have an adequate space already lined up for this joker to sit. Basically, its flimsy, oddly shaped and is something you do NOT want to scratch up. I ended up putting it on the roof of my Two Door.

Removing the two vertical bars behind the bumper skin that are held on with a 10mm bolt and 10mm nut.

Removing the rear strut brace. This is held on by two 14mm nuts at the struts and two 14mm bolts at the body. Once you have them out, it lifts up and you can set it aside out of the way.

Don’t forget about these little clip things that secure the third brake light wiring when you go to remove the hood. Also embarassing in front of your friends if you forget.

Removing the four 10mm bolts that hold the rear deck lid to the hinges. Don’t be a dumbass, get a friend to help you with this. Have them hold up one side while you remove the bolts from the other. It is possible to lay a towel out and work one side at a time but its easier to have a buddy hold up one side while you do the other. They can help you put the rear deck lid on a clear horizontal space as well. Be easy, scratching this piece will hurt your feelings.

Just taking a step back to admire the handy work…of the disassembly…the exhaust work is nothing to write home about and I’m glad that I’m finally getting rid of it. It used to be two mufflers, but I blew one out and had to cut it out and weld a piece of pipe in its place. I had to do this pronto because the muffler gave on a Thursday evening and I needed to be at work Friday morning. btw – This nastiness was what I learned to weld on. I expect the next exhaust system will reflect my improved metal sticking abilities (grin).

Popping the clips that secure the wires for the license plate lights.

Removing the rear bumper from the sub frame rails. There are three 14mm bolts holding this on each side.

Removing the O2 sensor. 2zz’s only use one for A/F ratios, plus its common to do a custom exhaust when you put one in your Spyder.

The exhaust for a 1zz would look nothing like the one pictured in this project.

After 30 minutes you too can have a spyder as light as this one.

Using a 19mm socket, loosen the accessory belt tensioner so you can take the belt off while you have the car on the ground.

Lift the car and pop the coolant drain plugs. There are two 12mm bolts. One on each coolant line. As an aside, the draining is helped if you pull the resevoir cap off the tank in the back of the car. As you can see from all the mud under my car, I hate dirt roads. Mine is finally paved but not before a few weeks of extremely nasty rainy weather got to visit and decorate the underside of my car.

Have a catch can of some sort for when the plugs come out.

Pictured here is me removing the two 12mm bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder to the bellhousing. I used a ratcheting wrench to get these as my air ratchet wouldn’t clear very easily.

Using the impact to zip the transmission mount by the clutch slave cylinder apart. As I recall, that was a 17mm. It may seem strange that I am taking this bolt out, but it needs to come out anyway because it keeps the mount bracket out of your way when you finally lower the engine from the car.

Removing the two 14mm bolts that secure the mount bracket to the bellhousing.

What I ended up with after I removed all that stuff. (one mount down, two to go – the fourth is left on, you’ll see)

Tie the slave cylinder up out of the way so its not stressing the clutch line.

Basically – there are four 12mm bolts that are holding the compressor on. Well that and an electrical clip. Don’t forget about the clip or you will embarass yourself in front of your friends. When removing the bolts, remove the two that are above the compressor first. The bolts are long and thin, so if you do the bottoms first, they won’t come off entirely and simply get in the way when you try to unbolt the top ones.

Untied the slave cylinder and tied the compressor in place. I then used the left over on the wire to secure the slave cylinder to the compressor.

This is the fuel line. More specifically, this is the spot where you should disconnect the fuel line if you intend to pull a 1zz/2zz engine from a Spyder. I simply pressed the white plastic thing together and the rubber line easily lifted off and out of the way.

Keep a rag handy for the little bit of gasoline that will pour out.

Yes, this white plastic thing.

Using a 10mm wrench to remove the bracket that keeps the hydraulic brake line from moving too much.

This is the ABS sensor for the wheel. There is a 10mm bolt that is holding it in place.

Actually removing said 10mm bolt and tucking the sensor up out of my way.

Some random bracket that is held on by a 10mm bolt. Since the hub assembly is coming off, this guy must stay with the car. So I’m taking it loose.

Using Mr. Impact again to zip off the lower 17mm (maybe 14mm, I forget at the moment) bolt that is holding the caliper on.

Removing the upper 17mm (maybe 14mm, I forget at the moment) bolt that is holding the caliper on.

Pulling the caliper off. At which point I balanced it on the forward locator bar for the hub.

Pulling the rotor off. I laid it on the floor out of the way.

Tied the caliper up out of the way so I could unbolt the forward locator bar for the hub.

Unbolting the two 19mm bolts that hold the cup to the strut. Incidentally, this is how you adjust your camber alignment if you’re curious. You buy different diameter sized bolts that allow the cup to tilt in or out a specified number of degrees and tighten them up while holding the hub assembly tilted one way or the other. My friends tried to explain to me that there was rocket science involved in automobile alignments…if they only knew.
btw – caster is not adjustable on these cars, if you have adjusted it you are not concerned with your alignment so much as the butt pillaging that the insurance company is going to give you for wrecking your car.

Removing the 17mm bolt that holds the forward locator bar to the hub. At this point the hub moves really easily.

As you can see.

Every detail shown regarding the hub must be duplicated for the other side of the car.

Removing the three 12mm bolts that hold the battery holder in place. The third one is way down low next to the strut. Its hobbies include making you go find a magnadoodle pen so you can retrieve it when it drops out of sight.

Removed the intake that was behind the battery. I am running a Pelican Racing style intake on my car. Stock intakes will need a little different finagling so I didn’t even go into it here…just remove your entire intake if you would still like to keep up.

Make sure this ground wire comes off the transmission. You will embarass yourself in front of your friends if you don’t when you go to lower the engine out of the car. Its a 10mm or 12mm as I recall.

Remove the 10mm nut holding the starter wire to the fuse panel.

Then take this wire loose and lay it over onto the engine.

All plugs to the ECM have been removed including the four wires that are necessary to integrate to the body harness if you are running a 2zz motor in your Spyder. These wires have to do with the O2 sensor if you’re curious because the Celica GTS keeps its O2 sensor so far away from the engine that it is wired in with the body harness. There are three plugs to the right of the two wiring bundles pictured that must also be removed. They come out with the engine wiring harness.

The scene just before I yank the engine harness through the firewall and lay it on the engine.

Said engine harness yanked through the firewall and laying on the engine.
btw – there are a few little clips for the harness to attach to the transmission that I have not mentioned here, they are pretty obvious when you see them in person and they simply require a flathead screw driver to disconnect.

Right after I laid everything up on the engine and made sure all the wiring junk was separated and out of the way.

The are the shift linkage connections. Just pull the little pin and the washer pops off along with the linkage head. Do not lose those parts.

These little clips tried to hurt my feelings. Basically I pushed the little metal piece down (circled) and forced the linkage (arrow points to it) up with a screwdriver. It popped out. I seem to recall there being a more convenient trick for this, but I don’t know what it is.

Using the impact wrench I zipped the driver’s side transmission mount loose. This was a 17mm I think. 17 or 14… I expect it will be pretty obvious when you start wrenching on it.

This is the modified celica mount used to keep the passenger side of the motor connected. I highly recomend to anyone using a 2zz in their Spyder to get a custom mount. Modifying the celica mount will let you get by, but the other three mounts tend to twist a little because its impossible to elongate the bolt hole enough to sit correctly.

I forget what this looks like on a 1zz, on the 2zz its just a 17mm bolt on the body side, two 14mm bolts on the motor side along with two 14mm nuts on the underside of the bridge mount toward the motor.

I used an old engine stand and laid a board across its legs. Then I placed two tires on the boards to let the motor and transmission sit on. This worked pretty darn well. Once I had the drive train sitting on this, I removed the two 17mm bolts holding the crossmember to the subframe rails and also the 12mm bolt that was holding some kind of bracket for the brake lines. Ignore the detail of the rear sway bar being disconnected. It was not necessary and I put the bolt back right after I took this picture.

Each side of the crossmember has two 17mm bolts and a 12mm bolt that need to be removed.

This is a pic of me lifting the car up from the drivetrain. I don’t recall moving, but apparently I was having some sort of epileptic fit when I pressed the button. Notice how I twisted the motor a bit to better clear the passenger side frame rail. It was at this point that I disconnected the throttle cable. If you forget about the throttle cable you will embarass yourself in front of your friends when you lift the car from the drivetrain.

Another pic to illustrate the twist I put on the drivetrain to clear the passenger subframe rail. BTW – something not pointed out during this is that the 2zz’s have a ground wire connected to the body above the valve cover towards the pullies. If you forget about this, you will embarass yourself in front of your friends when you lift the car from the drivetrain.

Voila – No more engine.

Still no more engine.

Everything that came out with the engine.

Everything I laid on one of my work tables. I keep the related bolts grouped together and move from a top to bottom, left to right motion as I put another pile of bolts on it. This way its easier for me to work backwards and put everything back in its place while I am reassembling.

Thats the whole show as far as I’m aware. The most important tool to use for this task is common sense. Yes that bears repeating. If you have any questions, please direct them to someone who cares.

Photos by Marilyn Murray – Copywrong 2005 my rights reserved and all that jazz.

Automatic transmission to manual transmission (1985 -86 MkI)

Extra tools I had to buy in addition to my normal hand tools:
Toyota Repair Manual or Haynes manual
10 mm deep socket
12 mm deep socket
14 mm deep socket
30 mm socket ½-inch drive (for axle nuts)
10 mm and 12 mm hydraulic nut wrenches
Drill bit (5/16)
A second hydraulic jack

PARTS I REMOVED FROM THE PARTS CAR Two 1985s, and one 1987) :
1. 5-speed transmission (which includes the shift lever on the transmission [selecting bell crank assembly: #3590F & control shift lever: # 33527] and reverse switch: # 84210) (Note: Use a transmission from an 85 or 86 if you have a 85 or 86 MR2. Sometime in 1987 they changed the transmission and I think the mounting point for the rear transmission mount may have changed.). Also need clutch release fork: #31240, clutch release bearing assembly: #31230, release fork ball: # 31236, and clutch release fork boot: # 31126.

17. ECU from the same year M/T car (1985 and 1986 are the same. I kept getting error codes when I used an ECU from a 1987 MKI.) NOTE: I have been informed that the A/T ECU will work with the manual transmission without any problems

NEW PARTS I BOUGHT:
1. Clutch pressure plate
2. Clutch disc
3. Throwout bearing
4. Transmission fluid
5. Hydraulic brake fluid
6. Electrical connectors
7. Cotter pins for the drive shafts
8. Rear transmission rubber isolator (Good time to inspect/replace all isolators for wear/tears)

1. Exhaust

-Silvertop

The complete 16v exhaust system can be used with the 20v silvertop. The only needed modification will be to the outermost flanges of the stock 16v header (pictures are of an ae86 header, but the bolt patern is the same)

The 20v header can also be used, but will require either a custom bpipe, or modifications to an existing 20v bpipe. The 20v silvertop header also has clearance issues with any exhaust side mounted starter. Clearance between the ST header and starter will only be a few millimeters.

The diameter of the 20v header pipes is identical to those on the 16v. The 20v header may have a slight advantage due to the use of theta plates, but dimensionally, the headers are the same or similar.

-Blacktop

The 16v header can also be used with the blacktop, but will result in power loss due to the Blacktop’s larger exhaust ports. A typical 16v header/manifold will be a bit constricting. 16v manifolds have been used with blacktops, so it is possible. Larger diameter 16v headers may be available.

For best results, use the blacktop header (or exhaust header that has the same exhaust port dimensions) when possible.

The exhaust mounted starter will not clear the larger diameter blacktop header. This will be an issue with any 1985-1987.5 20v conversions where the original c50 transmission is to be used since these transmissions lack the intake side mounting position. You really have 3 options in this situation.

a. Use the 16v setup, and take the performance hit
b. Use a later c52 transmission (or bellhousing) that does have the intake starter mounting position
c. Modify the 20v header to clear the starter.

Once again, a custom bpipe will have to be made, or an existing bpipe modified

Keep in mind that 87+ mr2’s used a larger diameter bpipe, cat, and muffler, so this is your best choice for the 20v. The 4agze equipped mr2’s used the same exhaust setup as the NA cars did.

2. Transmission

All mk1 mr2 transmission will physically bolt up to the 4age 20v. There are considerations you must make though.

-A series motors used 2 different sizes of flywheel. Early mr2’s, up till around 1986, used a 200mm flywheel. From 86 on, a 212mm flywheel was used. (200mm and 212mm pertains to the griping area of the flywheel. The actual diameter of the flywheels was the same). The 20v came with the later size flywheel, so when ordering a replacement clutch and pressureplate, just ask for a clutch kit for a 1989 mr2. If using the smaller flywheel, ask for a set from an 85 mr2. Either clutch set will be sufficient for the stock 4age 20v.
-Early c50 transmissions only had one mounting position for the starter. With this transmission, you are limited to mounting the starter on the exhaust side of the motor. These transmissions are on the 85-87.5 mr2’s. Later mr2’s had the c52 transmission. This transmission had a secondary starter mounting position on the intake side of the motor, just like the stock 20v transmissions. If you plan on using your 16v exhaust manifold, which is perfectly fine with a silvertop, you can mount the starter on either side. If you plan on using a 20v header, especially the blacktop’s, the header will not clear the exhaust mounted starter. If you must use the exhaust mounted starter in this case, the header will have to be modified for clearance.

-The c52 and c56 that comes with a 20v can also be used with modification and transferring a few parts from the original mr2 transmission, namely your mr2 selector shaft, and the entire mr2 shifter assembly. On the silvertop c52, a hole will have to be drilled for the selector shaft and the oil seal. On the C56 however, there is no casting for the oil seal. One of 3 approaches has to be taken.
-Add the additional aluminum casting, and drill as you normally would
-Fab an adapter or a makeshift casting (this has been done with JB weld, not the ideal way, but seems to be holding up in this case)
-Reuse the center transmission casing from your original mr2 transmission. This requires taking both transmissions apart

Here are some pics of the problem area:

-6speed transmissions are available for the 20v, known as the c60. Some blacktops came with a 6speed stock, although it was not a real common option. The same considerations must be made for the oil seal casting that have to be made when using a blacktop c56 5 speed. Getting a blacktop with a 6speed is usually somewhat pricey.
One other option is to use a 00+ Celica 6speed. The bellhousings are different, but can be swapped somewhat easily. All that holds the bellhousing to the central casing are the external 12mm bolts, and two 12mm bolts on the inside of the bellhousing that are attached to a reverse lockout arm. Once the external bolts are removed, the internal ones can be removed and installed through the 1-2 inch resulting gap. It’s a little bit tricky, but is much easier than taking the transmission apart. Once apart, remove the old differential bearing races and shims from the 4age bellhousing and replace them with the ones from the original 6speed bellhousing. It is very important that the differential stay with all of its original races and shims. This is the only way to keep the tension on the differential somewhat within spec. Too much or too little tension, and you will burn your differential bearings.

The celica 6speed will also require the use of 1991+ mr2 NA axles. No drilling is required since the Celica’s selector shaft is already on the correct side of the motor. Just add the mr2 selector shaft and shift assembly.

3. Cooling

The 20v does require hoses to be run differently. It is very straight forward, and one of the easiest parts of the swap. Rather than draw up a detailed explanation, here are some detailed pictures:

The rule of thumb that I use is link the driver’s side hard line that runs under the center of the car to the driver’s side water outlet on the 20v motor. Same for the passenger side. The passenger side hardline (the one with the oil cooler) goes to the water inlet on the back of the head next to the exhaust manifold. I usually try to incorporate my filler neck into this side of the cooling system. The needed hose stock can be purchased at Napa along with any flexible hoses you might want to use.

The heater hoses are also very straight forward. The 16v hoses can be used, but it is better just to buy the correct diameter tubing, and simply cut new hoses to length.

4. Throttle cable

My preferred method for dealing with the 16v cable being too short for the 20v is to simply reroute it. I drill a second hole in the fire wall about 6inches to the passenger side of the original throttle cable hole (be careful not to hit anything under the dash when you do this). I then route the cable under the dash, under the center console, behind the rear firewall and out the trunk release cable hole in the rear firewall (if you want to keep your trunk release, a second hole can be drilled). This puts the throttle cable in the perfect position with more than enough length.

5. Wiring

This is the heart of this conversion. Many 20v swaps have failed due to installers being unable to master the wiring. To make this part of the swap go more smoothly, I offer a complete plug and play solution. Here is a picture of the finished product:

It is perfectly fitted for the aw11. The air conditioning works along with the enginebay cooling fan. The 20v ecu will mount in the stock aw11 location. I test every harness on my own vehicle so that it is know to be operational and defect free before I ship it. The harness is loomed and ready to run.

The whole concept is to offer a harness that looks and fits like it was oem. Its as if you went to the Toyota dealership and ordered a stock harness, although my harness is cheaper than a dealership replacement harness. The cost is $350 and has a 100% success rate.

It’s a superior product compared to other offerings on the internet that claim to be plug and play. Competitive offerings ship mostly unloomed (ie you get a barewire harness), totally untested and have been known to contain defects. You as the end user get to sort through all the issues. Far from a hook it up in 20 minutes and turn the key proposition.

If you decide to do the wiring yourself, it is best to get an uncut 20v harness. There will be plenty to modify and change to make it work with the aw11 bodyharness, but is much easier than trying to get a cut harness to work. With a typical cut harness, you end up reconstructing a good portion of the harness. Not good if you are not pretty advanced at automotive wiring. Either way, there is a lot of soldering involved.

Here is a link to a good step by step on how to get an uncut 20v harness to work in the aw11.

http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/blac…ng/wiring.html

Swapping a 20v 4age for a 16v 4age has become a very common practice. Aside from significant performance advantages, you will be getting a newer engine typically with much lower mileage. Parts availability for the 20v has improved over the years as well. There are a number of Toyota dealerships that specialize in JDM parts. Champion Toyota comes to mind. Almost all the parts can be purchased easily and are priced like normal USDM dealership replacement parts. Considering many mr2 replacement parts have to be ordered anyway, getting 20v parts is not much more of a hassle.

The 20v conversion is a fairly easy bolt-in swap. Perfect for those looking for a high revving engine with a wonderfully broad powerband who also want stock reliability.

1. Mounting Points- All 3 transaxle mounts can be used from the C-52. Some fab work is necessary for the passenger motor mount.

2. Evap/Fuel system – make returnless, somewhat extensive
*check the other board for write-up with pics on making a return system returnless*

3. Slave cylinder – minor requires 3/16 female to male M12 coupling (brake fitting) From the firewall chassis fitting to 3/16″ aluminum brake line. Use tube bender to make custom bends. Attach to the C-60′s slave.

4. Header – reweld flange or contact David Lea (LittleRocket) who sells Brad Bedell’s header. I custom frabricated my own B-Pipe. Bedell may eventually have a B-Pipe available.

5. Axles – 91+ MR2 N/A non-ABS

6. Power Steering Pump removed – 1ZZ Idler pulley PN:13570-22010

7. Coolant/Heater hose – custom setup, many ways to do this.

8. Clutch selector cable bracket – Moddified C-52 bracket to sit higher on the C-60

9. Transaxle Mod – Note: I used a transaxle from a JDM Fielder which is like that of the Matrix/Vibe. I had to reverse the select lever to exit the front of the housing. Using the Celica version does not require this mod. PapoJ rotated the selector lever 180* to match the cables, but used a C-52 bellhousing. This allowed for him to use the C-52 cable bracket in the factory location. I modified my C-52 bracket to sit higher like it did on the original transaxle. All internal springs, clips, select levers, etc. were swapped from the Fielder’s select lever shaft to the Celica’s version select lever shaft.

Celica select lever shaft. PN: 33261-20080

9. Dipstick and Tube – MRS 1ZZ
- some minor tweaking was required to get it to fit.
Dipstick PN: 15301-22040
Guide(tube) PN: 11452-22040

10. Fuel Line – filter to fuel rail. I cut banjo fitting from the fuel line of the 4AGE where it mates to the filter and the quick-connect from the 2ZZ fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. These fittings were already barbed and inserted into 5/15″ fuel injection hose. *Dont Use Fuel/Evap Hose* Its not rated for the higher PSI. Hose clamps should be used as well. 1 hose to connect the 4AGE filter to the 2ZZ rail.

I still have my notes and the JDM Pinouts(wiring diagram), Connector Chart and Fuse/Relay Box for the early version of the Fielder/RunX/Alan in PDF format. Extensive…

This is how I have wired mine thus far.

I used the molex(N1) in the trunk and M1 and M2. I picked up mating connectors from the salvage yard. These were mated to coresponding wires of 2 of the ECU connectors, engine harness connectors and the added fuse box.

I used the fuse box from the Fielder to incorperate other fuses and relays. One of the relays was made the C/Open and also used the EFI relay and fuse for the EFI system. Unused fuses, relays and associated wiring were scrapped.

I basically used the MR2′s fusebox to run some of the components intended. The Fielder’s box was used to supply power to parts of the system I didnt think I could reconfigure. I was basicly trying to wire the 2ZZ as the engine would have originally been wired, basicly for OBD2 purposes.

The two systems are wired differently and being that I am no expert tried to do this in the most simple fashion for my understanding. The principles between the two systems are similar, but routing is different.

On a cpl of other notes, this being an OBD2 system, it only has one O2 sensor. I found this suprising, but I guess there are different regulations in Japan.

The Celica’s pinout indicates 2 O2′s where this system only has wiring for 1, which splices into the OBD2 port. I also have the Fielder’s exhaust and only 1 4-wire O2 sensor came with it.

The OBD2 port will be in my trunk as opposed to under the dash.

The only thing I havent figured out how to wire up are my oil sending wire, water temp wire and the VSV for the evap. (4age sending unit tee’d into the oil pressure selinoid for VVTL-i. Coolant temp sending unit yet to be installed. I have thought about the blocks drain-cock, but unsure.) I have one plug in the new system I dont have all the pinouts for and Im sure it mates to the oil and water. (I Found this to be incorrect. This connector had wires for the charging system) Im also under the impression that the Celi evap I purchased may be different than that of the JDM version as this schematic doesnt cover that VSV. The Celi’s did cover the wiring for it. This is something Ill have to work around or reconfigure once Im up and running.

Brief summery…

I had a hesitation issue with cam-changeover shortly after the swap. I had thought it was a fuel issue, but wasnt sure. Problem seemed to self correct as the seasons changed and temp dropped. On cooler days, changeover was great, no problems. Warmer (humid) weather and it was back…????

These results were on a Dynojet.

Mods:
-CAI
-Brad Bedell header
-My custom 2-1 collector B-Pipe
-Factory Cat with CherryBomb “turbo style” muffler
-B-pipe Collector merges to a 2.5″ into the cat and 2″ from cat exit back

All are SAE: 1.00 corrected, Max HP @ 7400, Max TQ @ 6800

Pull 1 – 158.64 HP 6:19pm
116.07 ft/lb
63.55 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 2 – 158.29 HP 6:22pm
114.31 ft/lb
63.42 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 3 – 161.35 HP 6:44pm
117.13 ft/lb
64.72 deg.
46% Humidity

I had originally thought the factory pump may have been limiting the fuel. Not the case… I’m running FAT!!! In all of the runs I was rich, down about 9 something.

The difference on the last run was the motor cooled a bit and we ran a fan for the radiator. It appears the fan also helped with the rich condition. The cooler air may have helped the air/fuel because on the last run I saw a low of about 10.5.

Im thinking if I can get my air/fuel into the 13.5-14.5 area I should be putting down about 169-173 HP. Time to fix some A/F ratios.

Im not sure if its the 4age’s fuel pump combined with the 2ZZ’s pressure regulator making for the wrong combo of parts. Should try the other pump. Or if its the cold air intake that the computer is over compensating for. It seems as if it hesitates more on hot days and not at all on the cooler days.

Im thinking this could also be due in part to a faulty O2 sensor. The one that came with 2ZZ’s downpipe was slightly damaged, though I still used it. It could be that the O2 isnt properly reading the signal.

**It is my understanding that the O2 only monitors in closed loop. I also understand that when under W.O.T. the system goes into open loop, at which time the computer just dumps fuel. …so this may not be my issue. I have considered using an Apex’i VAFC-II piggy-back to help lean it out. Some ppl say that the piggy-back will be over ridden by the factory ECU. I understand this as true, when in the closed loop. But, when under open throttle, your in open loop… At this time the piggy-back will kick in and run your engine at the parameters which you have set. Now some of this is just my theory, but really would like to try and correctly resolve the issue before going piggy-back.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2255550

3VZ-FE toysrme?
4VZ-FE JDM?
5VZ-FE Found in 1995.5-2004 Tacomas, 96-02 4runner, 95 T100(Rumor has it this was a Disti 5vz),00-03 Tundra -Weasy2k

1MZ-FE 94-99 Avalon, 94-02 Camry, 99-02 Solara, 98-03 Sienna
1MZ-FE*^ 03-04 Camry/Solara
1MZ-FE* 98-99 es300/rx300, 00-04 avalon/sienna 01-04 highlander
2MZ-FE* JDM?
3MZ-FE*^ 03-05 highlander, 04-05 Sienna, 05 camry/solara, 03-05 RX/ES 330

1GR-FE*^ 05 Tacoma
2GR-FE*^ 05 Avalon, 05 Rav4
3GR-FE*^
4GR-FE*^

2GRS-FE* IS350!!! i want!

* vvti equip
^ Drive by wire

Note: a Supra engine WILL NOT FIT!! it’s an inline6 get with the program!!

Drive by wire:
Out of all the new v6′s only the vvti 1mz never had it. the 3mz and gr series are all equip with it. There is also the +03 camry/solara too but they don’t have vvti. I wouldn’t suggest anyone to use these unless you plan to use a gr engine. Other wise you’ll have to deal lag; the pedal is designed for fuel economy in mind….

Transmission: The following transmission will work with some modification
E153 – although big compared to the s54 it’s much stronger and can take a beating. Mr2 transmission may need to have it’s dowel pins remove to fit on the block. I didn’t document the number of bolts used in a mr2T bellhousing as im using a v6 bellhousing w/ internals. but from my understanding it will cover more than the s54. Theres also a plus to using this tranny since some comes with LSD.

S54 – Opposite from the tranny above the mounting holes need to be enlarge.

note: if using an e153 on a n/a chasis you need the rear turbo hubs, axles and shifter cables

Clutch/Flywheel:
You need a v6 flywheel from any of the engine listed above that came with a manual transmission. With the exception of the vz’s truck flywheel. The MR2T flywheel will not work as the crank pattern is different; you can weld/redrill it but that will just compromise the strenght of the flywheel. Using a e153 you can use a stock turbo cluch setup but if using a s54 you need a E153 pressure plate and a s54 clutch combo (splines on the tranny is different)

Carrier bearing:
Every v6 from my understanding has one except for the longitudinal mounted ones like the 5vz’s. BUt if your using an S54 the axle doesnt need it. This is only for those using the E153. The bearing on Mr2T axle needs to be moved about 1/4″ left or right im not sure anymore it’s been too long.

Motor Mount:
In an Mr2 setup there are 4 mounts; 3 sits on the transmission and the other sits on the waterpump bracket (passenger side). You only need to make one mount for the passenger side. I suggest buying a spare driver side mount from the transmission and shaving off the plating and build a mount around it. You also need to reinforce the metal cylinder around the rubber mount because it has a weak spot. Mitch has a draft for the plate that goes ontop of the water pump bracket.

Exhaust:
Other than the 5vz where the exhaust joins ontop of the tranny, they will merge under the oilpan. Headers that come with precat are not usable as they will hit the motor mounts. Theres too many variants but i’ll just leave it for the exhaust shop to deal with

1992-1996 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6, 185 hp (137 kW)
1997-2001 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6, 194 hp (145 kW)
2001-2003 3.0 L 1MZ-FE* V6, 220 hp (164 kW)
1997-2001 2.5 L 2MZ-FE V6, 200 hp (149 kw) at 6000 rpm with 180 ft·lbf (244 N·m) at 4600 RPM
2004-2005 3.3 L 3MZ-FE* V6, 230 hp (172 kW)

1GR-FE* 236 hp (183 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 ft.lbf (382 Nm) of torque at 3800 rpm
2GR-FE* 268 hp (200 kW) at 6200 rpm with 248 ft.lbf (336 Nm) of torque at 4700 rpm
2GR-FSE** 315 hp (232 kW) at 6400 rpm and 377 Nm (277 ft.lbf) at 4800 rpm
3GR-FE* ???
3GR-FSE** ???
4GR-FSE** 204 hp at 6400 rpm with 265Nm of torque at 4800 rpm

*single vvt-I
** dual vvt-I

People complaining that the beams engine is too rare/expensive.

So here’s my guide, on how to go about getting a 200+hp 3SGE, for the least amount of money!

Firstly, the gearbox: Your standard gearbox is more than fine. LSD is fun, but definitely not needed.
Standard hubs/axles/etc are fine too.

Clutch: You cant use a 5SFE clutch/flywheel.
One from a gen 2 or gen 3 3SGE is fine. (note: gen 1 3S clutch will not work!)
The PCD of the flywheel bolts/crank is slightly larger on the 3S.

You can use a 3SGTE clutch cover plate and flywheel, but you need the clutch disk from a certain type of Hilux to make it work. As the input shaft spline diameter is different between turbo and NA gearboxes.
Although of course if you’re running a turbo gearbox (Which I dont reccomend) You need a clutch disc to suit an E153 gearbox.

Engine:
Alright this is a big call, but: Screw the redtop!
Basically, you’re paying a premium for an engine that isnt as rare as people make it out to be, and, according to CelicaRA45, who has had one of each and pulled them apart, the ONLY DIFFERENCE to a caldina ‘greytop’ engine, is the fact that the rocker covers arent red.
Worth an extra $3k? I dont think so!
UPDATE: I’ve now learnt, that there is a difference between the redtop and greytop models… The greytops have the catalytic converter built into the headers! As opposed to near the muffler for the SW20 and Celica. Which probably accounts for the 10hp difference. So get a decent set of headers, and you’ll more than likely get your 10hp back.

Caldina GTs are fairly common, definitely a lot moreso than SS2 celicas, or gen 5 SW20s! I see one at least once a day here in NZ.
Look to get one imported from a country like New Zealand, I think you’ll pay less of a premium for the engine/shipping than from Japan.
Also Caldina GTs are getting to the age where they are no longer in Japan all that much, so countries like NZ are getting flooded with them.

Wiring/ECU.
Okay, now here’s the biggest problem with running a Caldina engine.
Basically, they’re all autos.
I dont know how expensive a wiring loom is to suit an SW20 from toyota, but I’d imagine it’s prohibitively expensive.
I’m not sure how hard it is to run it with a manual transmission, as I’ve never tried. I believe there’s a way you can fool the auto trans computer with resistors or some such thing.

UPDATE: The way to go about this, is to earth out the pin that leads to the auto trans, which makes it think that the car is in neutral. I’m not sure which pin exactly this is, but that’s how you do it. There’s a guy in oz running a caldina beams auto engine in his AW11, and this is what he did.

The biggest advantage of getting a beams engine from an SW20 to swap into an SW20, is that the wiring is all virtually plug and play, barring one or two small items which are easy to solve. (Well it may be more complicated, if your car started life with a 5SFE)
Using a caldina loom, may take a significant amount of time tracing wiring etc.
I wouldnt reccomend using this engine, to someone that isnt familiar with wiring etc… You’d end up spending more than the cost of a redtop, just getting the wiring redone, etc.

I dont know for sure, but it’s possible that the auto ECU is tuned for 190HP instead of 200hp.
I would imagine because it’s got to pull around a lardy 4WD wagon instead of a light sports car, perhaps they have to retard the ignition or some such thing.
I’ve also heard that compression ratio is 10.5:1 instead of 11:1, but I cant say for sure. CelicaRA45 says they are Identical, and he knows what he’s talking about.

UPDATE: See above… 10hp difference is more than likely thanks to the catalytic converter being built into the headers.

Tacho signal/speedo signal.

Two ways to go about this. If you have a gen 2+ car, use the electric speedo signal from your existing gearbox.
If you have a gen 1, you can either use the cable, or convert it to electric. No problems either way! I’m using a cable, and the ECU still gets the speedo signal.. As I’ve still got the 180ish KPH speed cut in place.

For the tacho signal, you can either get a rev counter mechanism from a 1997+ toyota that has the same rev counter scale, or alternatively, get a tacho signal adaptor, to make your existing tacho work.

Basically, the problem is that the beams engine runs coil pack ignition, and the gen 2 or 3 3SGE or 5SFE doesnt.
So the ‘old’ signal runs at 20 volts or so, as it comes straight from the distributor.
The ‘new’ signal runs at either 5 volts or 12 volts, as it comes straight from the ECU or coils.

I’ve done a few things the hard way along the way with mine, so I thought I’d compile a list of things that might make it easier for someone else.

Things to remember:
Cap off coolent hoses
Protect fuel lines from contaminants and dont loose the banjo bolts and crush washers.
DONT CUT your wire harness, if your using a stock ECU you will be grafting the old MR2 harness into your V6 harness.

Keep the stock starter relay, you may remove the fan control and the stock ECU

The following is exactly the same for 3s or 5s swaps.

When your engine arrives check it over for sludge. Keep in mind some of the V6′es have been in grandmas car and may not have seen much attention.

This motor is a 5VZ but the swap is nearly identical to all other swaps. Notice the complete lack of motor mount on the front of the engine.

This is the 3S flywheel sitting on the 5VZ crank. I suggest replacing the 5VZ flywheel with a 1MZ wheel rather than modifying the 3s wheel.

The 3S-GTE pully fits right onto the 5VZ crank, the 5S pully should too. Remember to RE-mark the 4cly crank pully, the timing marks are in a different location than on the v6

You can not use the 5VZ spacer plate because the starter is on the opposite side. You will need to “modify” the 3S or 5S plate.

1MZ flywheel with MR2 TURBO pressure plate and disk

Here you can see an issue with the axel from the turbo transmission and the 5VZ block. There is no mount location for the axel holder. You will need to make an adapter that will bolt into the motor mount location.

Yes you CAN drop the motor and transaxel in from the top, by yourself I would say even the 4.0 v6 should fit through the top.

Here you can see a prototype adapter for the turbo axel. This should give you a good idea of how everything could bolt up without needing to machine the axel .

This is the coolant outlet on the 5VZ. Since its from a truck it faces the wrong way and needs to be cut and reshaped. I used an angle grinder, torch and bigass hammer. EDIT: the plastic 3VZ-FE coolant outlet bolts up and requires no moddification

 Here is the Cummings turbo coolant F pipe that works perfectly as a coolant fill pipe and heater core hose.

Sorry these are blurry but it serves as a warning to everyone planning a swap. You should get your ECU, harness and, engine from the same year. Toyota was nice enough to move some pins around between 96 and 98 so I had to MAKE my own ECU connector with DB25 computer pins and hot glue. Can you say “GHETTO” I think I can

You can swap all the mount plates from your 5s ECU or 3s to the OBDII ecu and it will mount in the stock location. I have an intercooler pipe running through there so I mounted it on the trunk floor.

Good luck.

Jim

[AndrewMcG]

I thought I would add a couple picks to this thread since I have yet to see any real good pictures of Jim’s motor mount actually mounted on the engine. I had a hard time picturing it until I had one in my hand so I hope this helps somebody.

1992-1996: 1MZ-FE
Compatible, but not recommended.
Early 90′s 3vz is proven to work also*

Source Cars:
Avalon
Solara
Lexus ES300
Camry

What to Buy / Get with Engine:
“remember to get a 97+ manual motor w/ ecu or you will have drama”

– Engine Long Block -dugh
– Transmission (97+ recommended, not required for Turbo owners)
– AC Compressor
–Alternator*
– AC Lines to compressor (cut)
– Alternator
– Engine Mounts
– Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there)
– ECU
– ECU Harness (uncut)
– Dash Plugs that go to ECU
– Tachometer from 97+ 1MZ-FE Car (only if you started with a NA tach
– Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)*optional
– 94+ V6 Intermediate Shaft (with 6 bolts on CV joint) *must be modified
Credits -derek2000GT

Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read
There aren’t really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don’t worry about upsetting your balance.

Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT)

There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you’d like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003)

Engine Mounts: General
Someone should definitely post some blueprints here.

“In total there are 5 possible mounts–3 for the tranny and 2 for the engine (anterior and posterior). The passenger side 3S-GTE/5S-FE engine mount must be abandoned if you anticipate putting a supercharger on (and who doesn’t).” -chall

I have built two motor mounts that use the pass side mount. Complete fabrication of all mounts is not necessary but recommended if you want a mount to absorb any engine noise.

Fuel Return: Adapting Properly
The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accomodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from a 3VZ-FE which is a direct fit.

3VZ-FE Option
“This is old news to Camry guys but a 3VZ-FE return fuel rail system will bolt right on to 1MZ-FE. this set up gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. …if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in.

…if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail i would highly reccommend the 3VZ-FE rail install…save time and will be 100% OEM.” -derek2000GT

Tapping the Rail Option
“The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system.” -chall

I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars.

Tachometer: Get it Working
“You will need to buy a tach from a 97+ 1MZ-FE equipped car. (AVALON, CAMRY, SOLARA, SEINNA, ES300) The tachs are the same on all models and will bolt right into cluster w/ no mods at all.” -derek2000GT

“It is almost scary how plug and play most Toyota parts are, at least in this swap. The tach looks virtually identical to the stock MR2 tach (the mechanical part that attaches to the back of the face). …we found that the tach slips right in and, thud, no tach adaptor needed.” -chall

“You will need the tach overlay for an NA MKII MR2. It has a 180 deg sweep with a 6300 redline. As oppesed to a 180 deg sweep 7000 redline/ 7250 revlimit Turbo gauge. Without it your tach will be completely inaccurate. It fits and has the same font/ look as other MR2 gauges.” -Luke

I have also used a 1k ohm resistor and diode hooked to two of the negative sides of the coils and used the stock tach. If I’ve not updated the link, I will shortly.

BUT:
“The block-transmission bolt patterns on the 5S-FE, 3S-GTE, and the 1MZ-FE are the same. Any transmission that works with one engine should work with any of them.” -chall
(This includes manual transmissions)

Some Info About VVT-I
VVT-I Engines availble only in automatic, until 2003. (Manual Tranny bolts on though)
Wiring / ECU issues will need to be addressed, due to automatic transmission errors
TRD is developing piggyback VVT-I ECU, available 2003

A piggyback VVT-I controller is neccessary to properly run. (Wolf EMS: http://www.wolfems.com.au) -derek2000GT

Driveshafts: Adaption and Conversion
“The V6 intermediate shaft (A) bolt right to MR2 CV joint on passenger side. ….Use a V6 intermediate shaft that has 6 bolts on CV joint which is same a MR2 so you can bolt to outer MR2 axle” -derek2000GT

The 93+ Turbo drivers side driveshafts should fit properly, without any adjustments.

*EDIT*

Please see the FAQ on this, you will have to machine a new C-clip for the driveshaft to work. No one has successfully found a shaft that will correctly fit the V6 mount and MR2 tranny. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. (I want specific model and year info along with a quick photo if possible)

Radiator hoses I used
(1)71704 Hose to connect to the factory pipe in the engine bay, left side.
(2) 80413 Heater hoses 90 degree bend on the end.

These hoses work real well. I had to cut them to fit,but have the correct bends and are reasonably priced.

The right side hose will be a little harder, but consists of cutting the pipe under the car, rotating the bend roughly 90 degrees, and routing the hose up the firewall just on the outside of the Belt. I will post pics of this when I’m finished later this week.

Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified, see SCC’s how to install a V6 for the most simple solution.

**Pete94t**

IF you don’t want cruise, you can re-route the main line under the car to the driver’s side and it’s the perfect length to the throttle body, with no junction boxes the pedal feel is better.

**Edit**

This works well, I have this done on my Yellow 91.

**Chall**
Technically speaking, the solara/camry transmission is the E351, not the E153, and I think this denotes the difference in drive gear ratios and final drive. Also, the synchros are much better than in the ’91-’93 turbo transmission. If you have the turbo transmission it will work, but you run out of first gear more quickly. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. this lets you get rid of the speedo cable, which removes one of the major hassles of taking the MR2 guage cluster out. Of course, you will need the linkage from an MR2 transmission and also need to drill a hole to use this linkage on the solara tranny–easy to do.

The half shafts are turbo on the driver’s side, and solara on the passenger side only because there is a 1/8″ or 3mm*** difference in the carrier bearing position. Turbo shafts will fit nicely in the solara transmission. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. It is impossible to combine the two shafts to make one as the type of CV joint on the solara shaft is enclosed and the diameter of the shaft in the CV joint is smaller.

Personally, I think that the passenger side mount for the engine should be abandoned altogether because you cannont add the supercharger and you will definitely want to add the supercharger. Front and rear engine mounts are not hard to fabricate and I have autocad diagrams of one design, but not the only design by any means.

–I have lowered my compression ratio by using 8.5:1 JE pistons and Eagle 22R rods but the rods take machining to thin them for the 1MZ (by .135 per side) and they are about .012 different in their C-C. But you can get them on Ebay and they are an initial $350 investment plus whatever it costs in your area to machine them. When and if you order pistons, let them know so that you can get pistons with the piston pin positon correct.

–I would use the 1MZ alternator. What Luke and I did was to attach the wires to the alternator using simple electrical connections and pouring epoxy around the connections so that now we have an alternator that has the long wires attached.

Claire

*** Edit by Brad, Original was 1cm

**Chall**
If I am understanding correctly, you are asking whether the turbo transmission without LSD uses the same axles as the LSD E153 and the Solara 351. I put a Toyota MR2 LSD into a Camry 5 speed (year 2000) and it uses the MR2 axles that I had machined to move the carrier bearing retainer groove. Of course, the differential defines which axles are used in these transaxles, so using an MR2 LSD (which fits exactly) guarantees that the turbo axles will work.

I don’t have succesful experience with mixing axles. I tried it but perhaps I used a too new axle to try to change the intermediate shaft, as the newer axles from the Solara/Camry are entirely different from the ’90/’95 US MR2 axles. It cost me $50 to have the turbo axle machined, and I thing that was kind of a rip-off.

Here is what I think about the swap:

–Not much needs to be done to the 1MZ-FE itself unless you are going to more than 4 PSI of boost. Derek has found that the return fuel system from other engines works well, or you can simply drill and tap both ends of the fuel rail and make a U-shape out of it to make a return system.

–You can use the stock Solara/Camry ECU, auto or manual, with the wiring diagrams that Luke worked out.

–I would abandon the passenger mount and make front and rear engine mounts for the 1MZ-FE so that you can supercharge later.

–I would abandon the turbo/NA water system after the main pipes beneath the gas tank, and connect more directly with a couple of pipe bends.

–I would get rid of the brake booster line across the firewall.

–I would move the oil filter with a remote kit.

–I would have the passenger axle machined.

–If you want A/C, have the MR2 lines tig welded to the 1MZ-FE lines. There may be much better solutions; I don’t know.

–You can direct connect the cruise control to the throttle and the throttle body very simply, but you have to move the throttle cable to the drivers’ side.

–I prefer the ratios of the Camry/Solara transmission E351 over those of the MR2 E153.

Overall, this is a simple process and should not take long if you prepare for it.

**SBCelicaGT**

1MZFE engine debuted in 1992. in 1997 it was updated with among other small changes, a returnless fuel system. later on it had VVTi as an option. all 3 generations of engine are aluminum. the 92-96 return fuel rails will bolt to the gen2 engines. or you can make your own returnless fuel system and it doesnt require any drilling or tapping.

axles: all the solara/avalon/sienna/ etc. axles I have seen arent rebuildable. I.E. they dont have the bolts in the middle to attach the inner and outer sections.

the mr2 turbo inner axles work just fine with the Solara tranny. the only mod you need to do is to slot the carrier bearing mount ever so slightly as it will be off by a few millimeters. For the celicas, you can then bolt outer alltrac axles to the inner turbo axles. for you mr2 guys, you can just use the whole turbo axles.

ecu: auto tranny ecu will work but you will have ECU codes till you find a way to fool the ECU into thinking there is an A/T in your engine bay by way of wiring resistors to the ends of the solonoid plug. Easy fix.

Eagle rods for the 22R will work. You will need to do the following:

1. As you can see, the shifter from the 89 SC MR2 I had was quite long.  As far as I know, all of the MK1 shifters are the same from 85 to 89.  The shift knob was also quite long and I was very annoyed with it after having a B & M in one of my MK2 MR2s for several years now.  I swapped in one of the B & M replica shifters without the drop-plate which worked out well.  The OEM shift knob would not work on the B & M replica, but it was rather phallic anyway, so I was quite happy to ditch it.
2. The OEM shifter from the 91 MR2 is only slightly shorter than the MK1 shifter and has a similarly phallic shift knob.  I recommend upgrading to a B & M or at least a 93 OEM version if possible.
3. The 93 OEM shifter is a good bit shorter and much nicer than the versions from the prior years.  The shifter is quite a bit shorter installed and the knob was revised on the 93-95 USDM models.
4. The TRD version is slightly shorter than the 93 OEM counterpart and the shift linkage has a slight adjustment making it mount higher.  The shifter works flawlessly and is well engineered as would be expected with the entire TRD product line.  The TRD short shifters were shipped with a drop-plate similar to the B & M and the knob with the TRD shifter is superb.
5. The B & M replica shifters (in some cases labeled as a Fidanza shifter) are quite short.  Although it visibly looks to be the same length as the authentic B & M, it is considerably shorter when installed for some reason and is almost too short to be usable if you use the drop plate.  It was so short that I was unable to shift to 2nd gear if the shift boot was still installed.  It is tolerable if you bypass installing the drop-plate and it did work quite well in the MK1 without the drop-plate.  Another option since these replica shifters are fairly inexpensive is simply using the drop-plate from the kit with your 93 version shifter.  All of the replica B & M shifters I’ve seen have been polished aluminum.
6. The B & M shifter kit is by far the best version available for the MR2 in my opinion.  It has the most complete kit and works the best out of all the models available in my experience.  The kit included the shifter, drop plate and mounting hardware, tube of grease, a billet extension, and detailed instructions.  The authentic version is easily identifiable by the anodized blue components and the brushed aluminum finish.  Old versions of the shifter included a nice, heavy shift knob, but those were phased out in the later kits available for the MR2.  B & M ended production for the MR2 short shift kit sometime around the 2005-6 time frame.  When it was available, it was approximately $170.  The B & M installation instructions can be found here.

Disclaimers/Notes:
- All references are to the way my ’86 NA (manufactured 8/85) were wired. The references are to the actual plug and pin designation Toyota gives in the electrical wiring diagrams (I have the ’88 one, but not an ’86 one, so there was still a lot of stuff to figure out!). YMMV.

M1 = the gray connector in the engine bay…the side with 12 pins.
M2 = the gray connector in the engine bay…the side with 4 pins.
N1 = the “molex” connector in the trunk that mates to the engine harness.
If I say M1-9, it means M1, pin 9.

- I will use the standard Toyota color code.
B = Black
Br = Brown
G = Green
Gr = Gray
L = Blue
LG = Light Green
O = Orange
P= Pink
R = Red
V = Violet
W = White
Y = Yellow

If the wire is striped, the first letter indicates the basic color of the wire and the second indicates the color of the stripe. Ex: B-W would be a black wire with a white stripe.

- There will be some duplication, as I’ll go through each plug separately and if a wire was on one plug, it will be referenced again on another plug, if it went there.

- I was modifying my ’86 body’s electrical harness to mate to the ’88′s engine harness.

- The car hasn’t been cranked, yet…the motor is still on the ground, so I can’t claim victory, yet. But I’m supremely confident (I guess!) it will work. It MUST work!
First off, I wanted to eliminate my ECT connector, since my car has always been (and always will be) a manual tranny. So, I uncoiled the ECT connector Toyota so thoughtfully put in there and did the following to the respective pins:

1. B “IDL” This goes to M1-9. I clipped it. It was simply being routed back to the ECT. The real magic is still happening between the TPS and the ECU via the engine harness.

2. Y-R “L3″. Goes to ECU, N1-19. Remove.

3. Y-G “L2″. Goes to ECU, N1-14. Remove.

4. Y-L “L1″. Goes to ECU, N1-9. Remove.

5. G-O. “OD2″ Goes to passenger cabin G2-11, driver’s side kick panel. Can remove…but I kept this wire and used it (since it was already run for me) for my Reg/Prem fuel select switch. It turned from G-O to R in the trunk and was routed to N1-5. (Yeah, I know…there’s still a wire in N1-5. We’ll get to that later.)

6. G-B. “Prk” according to the 88 wiring diagram. Wasn’t there on my car.

7. L. “N”. Went to a spade connector in my trunk. Removed.

8. L-Y. “Pwr”. Went to G2-5 under the driver’s kick panel. Can be removed, but I used it since it was already run for me. It became the wire for my Air/Fuel Ratio gauge and connects to the oxygen sensor line on the ECU.

9. Had no connection.

10. L-Y. “S3″. Went to M1-8. Remove.

11. Br-Y. “S2″. Went to M1-7. Remove.

12. V. “S1″. Went to M1-6. Remove.

13. Br-B. “DG”. Went to N1-16. Remove.

14. Not connected.

15. LG. “SPD2″. Went to N1-1. Remove.

16. V-W. “SPD1″. Also goes to Cruise computer and N1-10. Clip this wire where it joins the others and seal it with brush-on electrical tape or something.

17. P-W. “OD1″. Clip from Cruise connector, pin 6.

18. Not Connected.

19. W-B. “Gnd”. Clip from wire bundle in trunk.

20. LG. “L”. Went to M1-3. Remove.

21. LR-R. “S”. Went to N1-3. Remove.

22. G-W. “STP” or “BRAKE” depending on which diagram you look at. Clip from where it bundles to other G-W wires in the trunk and seal.

23. W-R. “+B”. Went to two other wires under the fuse box in the engine compartment. Clip there.

24. B-Y. “IG”. Clip from where it connects to other wires in the trunk.

That completes removal of the ECT connector. The cruise connector stays. Next up I’ll discuss the M1 and M2 (gray) connectors in the engine bay….

Okay, first off, M2 (the one with four pins) stays as is.

M1 had some changes…a lot have been discussed already. At this point there are only a few wires left on it, but I’ll hit all twelve pins, anyway.

1. B-W. This one gives you +12V to your starter only if you have an automatic tranny…and only when your key is in the “Start” position. Disconnect or leave. I used this pre-existing line, though. I disconnected it from the Blue connector (sorry…don’t know the pin number, but it was the third pin up from the bottom left of the connector, if I remember correctly). Anyway, I used this one to run my SC light. I connected a R-W wire to this one, just under the fuse box and ran it to N1-9.

2. B-W. Disconnect and connect to the wire that is currently at M1-4. This wire provides +12V when the clutch is pressed and the key is in the “Start” position. It energizes the Starter relay to route +12V out M2-4 to the starter, etc.

3. LG. “L” from ECT-20. Clip it.

4. B-W. Disconnect and wire directly to the wire that WAS at M1-2. This is the wire that actually goes to the hot side of the starter relay in the fuse box.

5. G-W. “Ck Engine Light”. This needs to be extended into the trunk to go to N1-1.

6. V. “S1″ from ECT-12. Clip it.

7. Br-Y. “S2″ from ECT-11. Clip it.

8. L-Y. “S3″ from ECT-10. Clip it.

9. B. “IDL” from ECT. Clip it.

10. P-W. “OD1″. Came from ECT-17 and Cruise-6. Remove.

11. B-W. I believe this is supposed to come from N1-16 (in the trunk) as the “A/C” signal to the A/C Amplifier. I don’t have A/C on this car…never will, but see the discussion of N1-16 to see how I used this wire.

12. L-W. I believe this is the signal from the cooling fan computer wire. I hooked it to N1-11.

I guess I should discuss the JSpec GZE clip that has two wires on M1 at pins 10 and 11. According to the 88 EWD, these supposedly have something to do with the A/C Lock Sensor. I used a couple of wires I removed earlier, LG and LG-R from another harness to actually put in M1 to mate up with these, just in case they turn out to be something different. I routed them into the passenger cabin behind the seat the coiled them up there with a piece of masking tape to explain what they are, should future generations need to know.
Next up, the N1 trunk connector that mates to the JSpec GZE engine harness!

Alright….now the N1 connector that actually mates with the engine harness. If you’ve followed the posts previous to this, there are already several pins removed and already explained, but I’ll briefly cover those again, in the spirit of full disclosure for every pin.

1. G-W. “WAN” or “Ck Engine Light”. M1-5 was extended to here.

2. Same as 86. Stays. Y-B. Oil pressure sender.

3. G-W. “Brake” for CHMSL (Center High-Mounted Stop Light). My ’86 has a separate connector already wired up for the spoiler light, so I left this empty. (It was removed previously from the ECT connector removal.)

4. B-W. To Injectors. Big changes here. The ’86 has the EFI Injector resistor mounted behind the battery bracket. They then route a black wire to this pin, which feeds injectors 3 & 4 on the NA and a red wire to pin 5 to feed injectors 1 & 2. The ’88 puts the injector resistor on the engine harness and only requires one wire to feed it through this connector. The wire on this pin needs to connect to the injector relay, pin 4, in the engine bay fuse box.

5. R. “Reg/Prem”. Gas selector switch in the dash board provides this signal. I used the wire left behind from pin 5 on the ECT removal and tapped this R wire to it. See the discussion on pin 4, above. This WAS the connection for the signal to injectors 3 & 4.

6. Same as 86. Stays. Y-G. Water temp sender.

7. Same as 86. Stays. B. EFI Main Relay.

8. Same as 86. Stays. B-Y. 10A Engine Fuse.

9. R-W. “TIL”. This is the SC light signal. I connected it to what was connected at M1-1, since that runs all the way to the driver’s kick panel and will be a breeze to wire from there.

10. Same as 86. Stays. V-W. Speed Sensor.

11. L-W. Cooling Fan Computer signal. Wired to the wire that was at M1-12. I’ve not confirmed this is the correct wire. Still need to find out about this one.

12. Same as 86. Stays. B-R. Engine Main Relay to Coil.

13. Same as 86. Stays. W-R. Battery AM2 Fuse.

14. Not used. Was removed when disconnecting the ECT connector.

15. Same as 86. Stays. B. To igniter and tach.

16. B-W. “A/C” signal from A/C Amplifier. I hooked this to the B-W wire that was at M1-11 before and disconnected it from this connector. I then extended the wire and routed it back into the engine bay to use as a control ground for my SPAL fan. The wire by the kick panel was extended up to the right side of the gauge cluster housing, where I replaced the switch blank there with a spare defroster switch to control the SPAL fan. See the discussion for M1-11 in the previous post.

17. Same as 86. Stays. Y. IC Regulator.

18. Same as 86. Stays. L. Fuel Pump.

19. G-W. “Stop”. I jumpered this to the separate spoiler brake light harness which is very nearby and accessible. You’ll remember that the Y-R wire that was here was removed with the ECT connector.

20. Same as 86. Stays. B-G. “IG2″

21. Same as 86. Stays. W-B. Ground to seatbelt warning relay.

22. Same as 86. Stays. B. “V-ISC”. Idle up VSV signal.

Hope that helps somebody. It’s correct AFAIK for my particular car. I’ve talked to somebody else that had an ’86 with no power anything and he didn’t have hardly any pins on M1. I figured that they would have used the same harness on every ’86, so YMMV, even if you have an ’86!