Rear swaybar installation parts list:

1. Addco 7/8 swaybar
2. 2sRus High and Tight rear endlinks
3. Energy Suspension greaseable bushings (9.5158G)

Tools required:

1. Jack, stands
2. 14mm socket, 14mm combination wrench (x2)
3. Torque wrench
4. Dremel tool with metal grinding bit
5. Lithium grease

Procedure:

First, the good news. This is one of the easiest suspension mods to do. You only need a few tools. As with almost any mod, however, expect the unexpected as you go along.

Clear the decks for business by jacking up the rear end and pulling the wheels. If you have the engine splash guard in place, leave it there.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 718×514 and weights 96KB.

Grab a 14mm combination wrench and break the nuts holding on the stock endlink. The lower:

And the upper – and if your car is like mine, these come right off:

Leave the endlinks in place – they aren’t under load but they’ll help hold the bar as you go after the bushing brackets here with the 14mm socket:

As expected, the rear bar is ridiculously easy to remove. It’s almost insulting. Pull, a half-twist to clear the tailpipe, and out it comes. If you’re timing this job, you’d be at around the 30 min. mark by now. Here’s a parts comparison – note how the stock rear sway is a puny, little girlie swaybar, and appreciate the size and machismo of the High and Tights:

Speaking of the bushings, there’s a problem. The brackets are too wide and will not fit the holes in the underbody of the chassis. You could drill and tap a new hole (not recommended) or modify the bracket (recommended). Use the dremel tool:

You’ll grind the slots on the bracket inward toward the bracket saddle all the way up to the curve. Then the bolts will fit. Grease the bushings, grease the endlink ball pivots. Now, reverse all the above steps to install the Addco. (Make sure the curve in the bar points down.) It’d be nice to have a friend help but it’s simple enough solo. So easy, you’ll be laughing.

Note that you’ll need two 14mm combination wrenches to install the High and Tight endlinks. There’s a nut on the inside of the endlink you need to secure as you tighten the outer nut, which you can see in the comparison photo above.

Here’s the finished result:

In the above picture, follow the swaybar around to where it runs under the frame. There’s a slight indentation there made to accommodate the swaybar. The Addco is so large that it almost makes contact with the body. The ES bushings are large enough to prevent binding and contact, but on my car the clearance is really tight – maybe 1/32 of an inch. The bar rotates in place, but it doesn’t move up and down. So as long as you have clearance, you’re good to go. If you are getting contact, you’ll need spacers under the bushings, and maybe longer bolts.

If you’re clear, then affix the wheels, torque the lug nuts to 76 ft lbs and test the bar.

Driving impressions:
I already have the front Addco, which really planted the front – much more than a FSTB – so I was expecting good things from this mod. Just running the front bar, the back end breaks loose predictably and controllably. With the rear, you should have better cornering as you reduce the last of the body roll. On the other hand, I’ve got Che’s rear member braces back there already, so I wasn’t expecting any OMG! moments.

Backing out the driveway, I’ve got a berm at the end where the drive connects with the street. I felt the effect of the rear bar when the tires passed over this bump. Much more solid now. Heading out… Turn One. Nothing dramatic, but very nice. Turn Two. Ah, I see what it’s doing. The back feels tightened down like the front. Turn Three. Feels like the power of the car connects with the suspension immediately. Turn Four. Accelerating out of curves feels more authoritative.

On the way back, Turn Four is a sweeping right that I often use to test the back end, because I can break the tires loose an inch or two without drama. This time, I couldn’t do it. I didn’t go past 7/10 for the test drive, so I’ll need more time to discover the new limits of the back end – but they’re now beyond what they were. I recommend this mod very highly. PITA factor: One bottle of Stella Artois, and that only because of the bushing issue. Hat tip to lbridges for his advice with the procedure.

Tools needed:

• Various sockets, wrenches, pliers & ratchet
• Cheater bar for those stubborn nuts & bolts
• Bench Vice
• Monkey wrench or large channel locks
• Dremel tool (maybe, see step 6)
• Spring insulators x2
• Bumpstops x2

Rear Removal

1) Remove the 3 screws holding the decklid side panel.

2) Loosen the 19mm strut bolt (green) and the three 12mm strut top bolts (red). Do not remove.

3) Raise and support the rear of the car on jack stands.

4) Remove the rear wheel.

5) Remove the clip holding the brake line to the strut bracket.

6) Push the line up and then bend the bracket to open up space to remove the brakeline from the bracket. You may need a dremel tool to cut a line into the bracket.

7) Remove the sway bar end link from the strut assembly. 14mm nut.

Mark the camber position on the axle carrier. Then remove the two 19mm bolts/nuts holding the strut assembly to the axle carrier.

9) Remove the three 12mm bolts (red) from the strut top.

10) May take some working of the strut assembly and axle carrier, but eventually you can wiggle the strut assembly loose and can remove it from the vehicle.

11) Remove the 19mm bolt holding the strut to the strut top. I did not need a spring compressor for the rear. However, to be safe, use one.

12) Remove the strut top, spring and bumpstop.

13) Place the strut assembly in a vice, and then using a pipe wrench or channel locks remove the gland nut. The insert should then pull right out. Be careful of some oil within the strut assembly.

14) Here’s the parts contained within the strut assembly.

Installation

1) Place the new strut insert inside the assembly.

2) Pour some coolant or oil in the assembly to provide a bath for the insert. Helps dissipate heat.

3) Insert the new gland nut and tighten it down to the spec provided by your new inserts. You also need to measure the distance between the gland nut and the strut assembly (the exposed threads). If not within spec you will need to use a spacer. FYI, my Tokico Illuminas did not need any spacers.

4) Slide new (or old if it’s in good shape) bumpstop onto the shaft of the insert. Notice I cut the top off the bumpstop, as I am using ST springs.

5) Insert new spring insulator.

6) Position the spring into the assembly, making sure that it is positioned correctly in the insulator.

7) Insert strut top and tighten down with new 19mm bolt provided with the inserts. Make sure the strut top is aligned the proper way relative to the strut assembly. Consult the BGB or Haynes. (The ‘point’ in the triangle of the strut top should point toward the outside of the vehicle.)

Also, make sure the top of the strut insert is properly aligned with the bottom of the strut top. I ended up having to wait till I installed the assemblies in the car, before I was able to tighten the strut top bolt all the way to spec. The insert kept turning, and I didn’t want to grab the shaft with a pair of pliers. That would have been a bad thing.

9) Here’s the two assemblies ready to go back into the car.

10) Attach the one end of the end-link to the strut assembly, lot easier than doing it with the strut assembly in the car.

11) Insert the strut assemblies back into the car, top first. Hand-tighten the three 12mm bolts to hold the assembly in place.

12) Set the camber adjuster back to where you marked it, and then wiggle the axle carrier back into the strut assembly.

13) Insert and tighten the 17mm bolts into the assembly and axle carrier. Also attach the other end of the end links to the sway bar.

14) Use a jack to raise the axle carrier up, to compress the spring.

15) This will allow you to easily tighten the three 12mm strut top bolts (red). Also, if you weren’t able to align the strut insert ino the bottom of the strut top, you can do that at this time. Tighten the 19mm bolt (green) down to spec.

16) Mount wheel & lower vehicle.

1.Those are 2 2×12 boards 2.5 feet long. When raising the car up and down, it rolls back and forth. The more level the car when doing the actual drop the easier to get it out. Thanks to Carl Crawford for this idea.

Wheels under the car when possible are a good idea in case something really bad happens. This is a good time to use jack stands under the rear of the car (in front of the rear wheels, not pictured).

2. Time to remove the axles. This will involve many steps. First, set the parking brake, and take the rear wheels off.

A: Take the cotter pins and axle end caps off.

Parking brake still on right? It’s 32mm socket and breaker bar time. Jeez.

This might help so the socket doesn’t slip off like it did on me multiple times. The pressure from the jack keeps the socket on the bolt where it would normally want to torque/twist off.

B: OPTIONALLY Remove the rear brakes. You do not have to do this if you are not changing your brakes out. I was putting 93 style brakes on, so now was a good time. Skip to C: if you do not need to do this.

This is a little trick to get more leverage out of your wrenches I learned from a local MR2-NW guy, Jay Atienza. Apparently he learned it in the Air Force. It’s probably common knowledge???

Bolt removed.

Lift the caliper up, and push it towards the engine to remove from the bracket.

It pushes straight off but you might have to do a little twisting to get there.

Remove the rear brake bracket. 2 bolts.

Remove the discs, the first bolt you took off the calipers can be screwed into the two small holes to get the disc to pop off the assembly if necessary, see pic…

C: Disconnect sway bar from the end links. 14mm wrench and hex wrench.

D: Disconnect balljoint from lower suspension arm. 2 17mm bolts.

E: Disconnect adjustment arm from brake assembly.

F: Pop axles through the brake assembly. Use a piece of wood and hammer to hit the axles straight towards the engine. This may take a lot of hits, keep at it, it will free up, and pop through. G: Remove right hand (passenger) axle. There are a few ways to do this, the one I used was to remove the axle carrier and just pull the axle out. This first pic is looking through the crossmember at the back of the engine. From below, remove the following

1: Two carrier bolts (removed already)

2: Support brackets nut (removed already)

3: Short support bracket end bolt

4: Long support bracket end bolt

 
Now, once the bracket is loose (pop it off the block with a screwdriver so it’s free) just pull on the entire axle assembly, and it will dance out of the tranny.

Here’s the whole thing. I think this way is much easier than the BGB way. Thanks to Shane Craddock for the idea on this.

H: Unbolt rear motor mount through bolt.

I: If the car has ABS, detatch ABS line from the crossmember. 1 10mm bolt on each side. Also, be careful to move the ABS line above the swaybar, or you might damage it when you drop the crossmember.

J: Unbolt assembly arm from car body.

The left arrow points to a crossmember bolt that’s coming up next. The arrow on the right shows you a better shot of the assembly arm.

K: Time to drop the crossmember. Break the bolts loose, but do not take them out yet.

Now is a good time to get another person to help, or use a jack to support the crossmember. Undo the four bolts the rest of the way. Lower the crossmember and pull it out.

3: Here’s two pics showing you what you should have…

That’s right, we’re leaving the drivers side axle attatched during the drop. We’ll get it out later.

Get ready to drop

I got this 1,000 lb capacity furniture dolly from Home Depot for $19.95. The oil pan should sit on the right side, and the tranny has two spots that will sit on the left side. With just these three spots, the engine will be balanced. Get the engine hoist hooked up (you’re probably going to need a load balancer in between the hoist and the engine to keep the sides even).

Another view. Notice the blue slave cylinder hanging (we’ll remove it in a minute). Be sure to support it so that the hoses are not being stressed.

4. Remove Slave Cylinder and Front Motor Mount through bolt and Tranny side of the motor mount

Time to get the slave cylinder off the tranny otherwise you’ll have to cut the lines which would not make things any easier on you later.

The Slave Cylinder can be challenging to remove and install. It’s hard to see the bolts, and to reach them.
There are only 4 bolts to worry about. In the past I’ve always seen people (myself included) undoing most of the pictured bolts just because you can’t see what’s holding it on from above or below very well. The top two just hold it down to the tranny. The bottom two sandwich it to the front motor mount and the tranny. The motor mount is not pictured in this pic.

The next few pics are of an install, but will still be helpful, just do the reverse. Under the car, lining up that bolt hole on the right to make things easier.

First step to installing it, temporarily mount the two lower bolts without the engine mount installed.

Here you can see the upper bolt on the drivers side being tightened down with a small wrench and small socket. This is to give you an idea where the bolt is.

Same as above.

Another pic of that bolt.

Here’s the upper passenger side bolt being tightened down. Notice the longer socket than the drivers side bolt.

Another angle of the passenger side bolt.

Finally, remove the lower two bolts which were loosely on there, and put the motor mount on, then re-install the two lower bolts.

Remove the through bolt for the front motor mount.

On the left, the through bolt is removed, and on the right in the tranny side of the motor mount there are two bolts that due to lack of space must be undone with a wrench. The reason to pull these off is because they are holding the slave cylinder to the tranny.

5. Remove drivers side motor mount bolts

From below, these bolts hold the tranny to the tranny side of the motor mount.

Can’t remember what this one was???????

The left two arrows point to the top view of the bolts we saw from below two pictures ago. The bolts on the right hold a stay bar, and a mount for the speedo cable.

Another view with bolts loose.

6. Remove passenger side mount completely

Now we’re attacking the passenger side motor mount. We ended up undoing all 5 bolts.

Here’s are some more shots to show you what needs to come off.

Start with the two bottom nuts (easily accessed from below with a long extension). Then the three top bolts.

Finally the through bolt (which can come out even with the intercooler in place).

7. Dropping the engine

Then, just slowly lower the engine. If it gets caught up somewhere, raise it back up a little, and see what the problem is. Take care of the problem . We had to shake the chains a bit to swing the engine around and get it unstuck from this and that. Also, be sure you’re clearing the AC compressor if you have one.

Here’s some shots to help show the balance points.

Once the engine is down, you may have to raise the car up to get it out. To do this safely, get a good thick chain that the rear crossmember bolts will slide through, hook it so that it goes bolt through chain into rear crossmember hole – chain goes to hoist up top – chain goes to bolt on other side rear crossmember hole. Then use a towel or some old carpet to keep the paint from getting scratched by the chain, and raise the car up slowly. Watch what the front wheels are doing (rolling backwards) don’t let them fall off the boards (if you used them). You want the front wheels free so that the hoist isn’t pulling on the car enough to cause it to jump forward when you lower onto the jackstands. Raise the jackstands up to the new height, then lower the car down to the jackstands…. (Thanks Carl Crawford for the idea). Now hopefully you have a nice dolly to make this easier, pull the engine on out.

Ahhh, wasn’t that easy?

Now you could leave it on the dolly (or whatever you lowered it onto) or you could put it on a stand. To get it on a stand you have pull the tranny, pressure plate, and flywheel (well, you could leave the flywheel on, but why would you want to?). Then you gotta get some bigger bolts to hold the block to the stand. This will be covered a little on the tear down page.

Remove the Starter. There are some electrical connectors usually covered by a black plastic cover.

Be sure to have your battery disconnected first. The black box covers 2 of the wires. Pop it off.

Use the 14mm on that bad boy.

Pull the two wires off, and put the nut back on, then replace the black box so you don’t lose them.

There is one connector to the passenger side of the black box. Unclip that little guy.

Finally, there are two large bolts connecting the starter body to the transmission. These bolts are close to the tranny, and not the skinny ones easily visible at the end of the starter. Unbolt them with a socket and medium extension. Pull the starter out of the tranny, and set it down somewhere without damaging the teeth on the gear.
Disconnect the backup light switch (gray electrical connector on top of the tranny), ground cables (multiple, don’t worry if you can’t find them at this point, you will definitely find them when you start to drop the tranny down), and Speedo cable or Speed Sensor from the tranny.

Here’s a picture of the 91 speedo sensor. 10mm bolt holding it to the tranny at the bottom right.

Remove the rear wheels and raise the car. Place the wheels under the car for safety. You want to support it under the body in front of the rear wheels with jack stands. Note: Ignore the stand in the middle in this picture.

Remove the plastic undertray from below the car. 5 10mm bolts.
Drain the tranny fluid.

Push the axles through the axle carriers. This will involve many steps. First, set the parking brake, and take the rear wheels off.

A: Take the cotter pins and axle end caps off.

Parking brake still on right? It’s 32mm socket and breaker bar time. Jeez.

This might help so the socket doesn’t slip off like it did on me multiple times. The pressure from the jack keeps the socket on the bolt where it would normally want to torque/twist off.

Remove the discs with a 10mm bolt screwed into the two small holes to get the disc to pop off the assembly if necessary, see pic…

C: Disconnect sway bar from the end links. 14mm wrench and hex wrench.

D: Disconnect balljoint from lower suspension arm. 2 17mm bolts.

E: Disconnect adjustment arm from brake assembly.

Pop axles through the brake assembly. Before you do this you will have to undo the two strut bolts that connect the strut to the axle carrier (19mm). Use a piece of wood and hammer to hit the axles straight towards the engine. This may take a lot of hits, keep at it, it will free up, and pop through.

They should come out of the carriers and look like this

Remove right hand (passenger) axle only. There are a few ways to do this, the one I used was to remove the axle carrier and just pull the axle out. This first pic is looking through the crossmember at the back of the engine. From below, remove the following

1: Two carrier bolts (removed already)

2: Support brackets nut (removed already)

3: Short support bracket end bolt

4: Long support bracket end bolt

 
Now, once the bracket is loose (pop it off the block with a screwdriver so it’s free) just pull on the entire axle assembly, and it will dance out of the tranny.

Here’s the whole thing. I think this way is much easier than the BGB way. Thanks to Shane Craddock for the idea on this.

Disconnect the tranny control cables.

The starter (red circle) should give you a reference for where these are.. Pop the 2 clips off with a screwdriver or pliers, pull the cables off, and put back the washers and clips. One cable has 1 washer, and the other has 2, don’t mix them up.

Now, get under the car, and pop these two mount clips off the cables with a screw driver and hammer. They pop straight up and off.

Then push the cables out of the mounts so that they are free floating.

Here’s another shot of a clip partially off.

Here they are disconnected from below.

Remove Exhaust system.

Aftermarket systems are much easier than stock. You may want to use some PB Blaster on all of the bolts a day before hand to make your life easier. If you strip out a stud/nut/bolt, be prepared to drill it out. Notice I previously drilled out the stock studs, and used nuts and bolts instead.

3 on the cat.

2 on the rear b-pipe with the Greddy Power Extreme system.

The rest of the pics show the 3 hanger locations.

 
Remove Slave Cylinder and Front Motor Mount through bolt and Tranny side of the motor mount

Time to get the slave cylinder off the tranny otherwise you’ll have to cut the lines which would not make things any easier on you later.

The Slave Cylinder can be challenging to remove and install. It’s hard to see the bolts, and to reach them.
There are only 4 bolts to worry about. In the past I’ve always seen people (myself included) undoing most of the pictured bolts just because you can’t see what’s holding it on from above or below very well. The top two just hold it down to the tranny. The bottom two sandwich it to the front motor mount and the tranny. The motor mount is not pictured in this pic.

The next few pics are of an install, but will still be helpful, just do the reverse. Under the car, lining up that bolt hole on the right to make things easier.

First step to installing it, temporarily mount the two lower bolts without the engine mount installed.

Here you can see the upper bolt on the drivers side being tightened down with a small wrench and small socket. This is to give you an idea where the bolt is.

Same as above.

Another pic of that bolt.

Here’s the upper passenger side bolt being tightened down. Notice the longer socket than the drivers side bolt.

Another angle of the passenger side bolt.

Finally, remove the lower two bolts which were loosely on there, and put the motor mount on, then re-install the two lower bolts.

At this point it’s a good idea to use a jackstand and a 2×4 to support the engine. Put the 2×4 under the low part of oil pan, not the transmission. We want to keep the engine where it is so we can remove the motor mounts safely. Later it may be necessary to raise and lower the engine to get the transmission on and off. Keep that in mind and allow yourself space for a jack.

Remove the through bolt for the front motor mount.

On the left, the through bolt is removed, and on the right in the tranny side of the motor mount there are two bolts that due to lack of space must be undone with a wrench. The reason to pull these off is because they are holding the slave cylinder to the tranny.

Unbolt rear motor mount through bolt.

I: If the car has ABS, detatch ABS line from the crossmember. 1 10mm bolt on each side. Also, be careful to move the ABS line above the swaybar, or you might damage it when you drop the crossmember.

J: Unbolt assembly arm from car body.

The left arrow points to a crossmember bolt that’s coming up next. The arrow on the right shows you a better shot of the assembly arm.

K: Time to drop the crossmember. Break the bolts loose, but do not take them out yet.

Now is a good time to get another person to help, or use a jack to support the crossmember. Undo the four bolts the rest of the way. Lower the crossmember and pull it out.

Remove drivers side motor mount bolts

From below, these bolts hold the tranny to the tranny side of the motor mount.

The left two arrows point to the top view of the bolts we saw from below two pictures ago. The bolts on the right hold a stay bar, and a mount for the speedo cable.

Another view with bolts loose.

Feel around between the tranny and block and frame for any hoses/wires/clips/etc that are still connected. Disconnect them and don’t forget to install them later.

At this point, the BGB says “REMOVE TRANSAXLE”. Meaning, remove the transmission from the engine block. To do this, you have to unbolt many bolts all the way around the tranny, top/bottom/sides. Below are many pics of a tranny out of the car to give you an idea of where the bolts are. I removed the them in a clockwise order, and then used a marker to write down numbers on the bolt heads. This made reinstall very easy. I suggest you do some sort of organization with the bolts, otherwise you’ll be doing what I’ve seen happen twice, guessing at which bolts go where. Since some of these bolts take a lot of stress, you want to be sure to put them in their proper places. SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION WITH A JACK AND 2X4 or 2X6. YOU NEED A FRIEND TO HELP AT THIS POINT. Your helper will sit on the drivers side of the car with the jack and 2×4 under the tranny. They will raise and lower the jack to help you get the tranny out, as well as help balance the transmission. Sometimes it will be necessary to lower the engine down to get the tranny off. You should already have a jackstand and 2×4 under the oil pan. Use another jack to lower the engine. When you are lowering the tranny, you may find wires/groundstraps/hoses/etc still connected, just disconnect them and write them down on a piece of paper to reinstall when you put it back in. It can actually take some time to separate the tranny from the block. Just keep checking for bolts you may have missed. You can use flathead screwdrivers to help pry the tranny off. Be very careful on this step. The transmission is very heavy, so absolutely make sure you are ready at all times, and have a friend backing you up.

Here you can see how some of the connect to the block.

Notice the “peg” in this picture. There are a few of them in between the block and tranny, and they help position the tranny on install. They also make it a pain to seperate the tranny and block sometimes. Be aware of them.

Here are some about to be removed.

This what the BGB shows you.

Once you get that badboy off and out of the way, you’ll have something like this sticking to the engine (ok, hopefully not this damaged!). Remove this clutch cover and then the clutch disc (14ft lbs on reinstall). There are multiple bolts connecting it to the flywheel. Note which way the clutch is facing. There is a right way and a wrong way, the center section sticks out on one side, and not on the other.

Remove the 8 bolts on the flywheel. Note this is a resufaced flywheel, your old one won’t look quite so nice.

Here’s a new stock clutch on the left next to an old stock one on the right.

Aftermarket on the left.

Old clutch cover.

Here’s the flywheel after being “turned”. In order to maximize the life and biting power of the new clutch, you will want to take your old flywheel to a machine shop to have it turned. Definitely do this!

Another resurfaced flywheel.

Reinstall the newly resurfaced flywheel. Put a drop of locktite or threadlocker on each of the bolts, and torque them down to 72ft lbs in a criss cross pattern, do one pass at 20ft lbs, another at 40, another at 60, then 72.

Clean the hell out of the flywheel and clutch cover with brake cleaner.

FYI: You want to clean the flywheel after it’s on the car otherwise it will get dirty from the install.

Install the clutch cover with the clutch in between the cover and flywheel, facing the correct way.

Use the tool that comes with most clutches to center the clutch disc. Just use your best guess, it can still be adjusted later.

I can’t stress this cleaning and greasing part enough, do this well or you will have a squeaky clutch in neutral. Remove old throwout bearing and release fork, clean them with Brake Cleaner as well. Grease the inside of the new throwout bearing, and the mating surfaces where it meets the the realease fork. Also grease the end of the realease fork where the slave cylinder pushrod connects. I used some lithium grease for this entire section. Be sure that you do a good job on the cleaning, and when greasing, don’t get any large gobs anywhere otherwise some could get on the clutch surfaces and ruin it.
Reinstall tranny. Here we’ve got the tranny and engine on jacks, (normally the balance point of the tranny is closer towards the drivers side, but once you’ve got it on, you can move the jack around as shown in this pic) and raised the tranny up, and slid it over onto the engine. You can see a hand at the top starting one of the first bolts. If you are having trouble mounting the tranny on, try to get one of the larger bolts started, but don’t strip it out. Once you get one started, you can move on to the other bolts that are near it. You also have to line up the splines with the clutch disc otherwise the tranny will not slide all the way on, and this can take a few tries. Then you have to get the tranny mated to the block. Just start trying to get the large bolts started. Once you get one or two going, tighten them down a bit, and try the others. Remember the pegs sticking out of the block. These have to be centered first before you can start any of the bolts. Have a friend help raise and lower the tranny and engine to line them up while you try to start some of the bolts.

Note: Be careful when putting the passenger axle back in to not damage the outer seal by putting it in at an angle otherwise you’ll have a tranny fluid leak there. I think we were crossing our fingers in this pic because it’s tough getting those new seals in there correctly

Finally, started redoing the entire suspension in the car. I went ahead and removed the strut assemblies first, that way this writeup is more meaningful.

Tools needed:

• Various sockets, wrenches, pliers & ratchet
• Cheater bar for those stubborn nuts & bolts
• Spring compressor
• Bench Vice
• Monkey wrench or large channel locks
• Dremel tool (maybe, see step 4)

Front Removal (pictures show driver’s side replacement)