List of tools:

30 mm 12 point socket to remove the drive shaft nut (Ace Hardware)
14 mm 6 point socket to remove most bolts on tranny, engine mounts
17 mm 6 point socket to remove the two top tranny bolts and control arms
12 mm 6 point socket to remove battery tray, top engine mount bracket, ground wire to tranny
10mm 6 point socket to remove neg on battery etc
22 or 24mm 6 point to remove oil drain plug
Different length
extenders for sockets and universal joints for some angles to get socket on the bolts
1 Large flat head screw driver or small “pry bar” to pop off driver side axle
1 Jack two is better
3 Jack stands, two to hold up car one for engine when tranny is out (or jack to hold engine up)
Braker bar ( most tranny bolts are on with 50 ft lbs or less) not to bad
*2 cargo straps one with ratcheting ( time saver and makes removing / installing the tranny SO MUCH EASIER)
Dremmel or small hack saw to cut out small piece of the front engine mount to access the clutch release cylinder (so you don’t have to disconnect and bleed the clutch system)
1 Step stool
1 funnel
1 roll of paper towels

Now for the fun.

While the car is on the ground loosen the 30mm bolt holding the axle shaft. Make sure you bend up the locking tab on the nut I used a hole punch then a screw driver.

Remove the rear crossbrace (14mm) then battery and air box all the way up to the intake.

Remove the battery tray assembly 12mm

Remove the two pins holding the shift cables make sure to mark one of the cables to know which one goes to which pin. I use a paper towel and wire to mark the longest cable.

Remove the back up plug, bolt to ground wire 12mm

Remove the bolt holding down the wire harness to the transmission 12mm

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the rear of the car

Remove the top tranny bolt 17mm closest to the front of the car. Its not easy to see but with a long screw driver or pry bar you can move around the engine hoses & wire harness to put on the socket

Now jack up the car and make sure you use jack stands. I have the smaller type 2 ton, you’ll need to raise the car high enough to slide the tranny out. I went three or four exposed notches.

When under the the car I started with the starter bolts 14mm

Then the two bolt holding the clutch cylinder 12mm

Then remove the the engine long bolt 14mm or 17mm and the three bolts 14mm holding the mount to the car and the bolt at the rear lower transmission 14mm

Remove the holding clip and then cut out a notch with a dremmel to slide the clutch cylinder out

Remove the two 14mm bolts behind the header. You might need extensions and universal joint with the scoket & ratchet.

Remove the lower tranny bolts 14mm

Remove the lower control arms bolts 17mm. The nut with the dial remove. The other control arms you must turn the bolt not the nuts. The nuts have a spike on back of them that will not let it turn. The bolts are the way to go.

Remove the three amigo header bolts and pop off the down pipe (you don’t need to remove the down pipe)

Place a oil pan under the tranny then remove the oil drain nut 22mm or 24mm. drain the oil.

I used an air chisel fork to pop off the axle a large flat head screw driver or small prybar will work (the air chisel fork was used as a pry bar only not hooked up to an air source, the bit has a turned up side like a fork has and that gives it a little more leverage). Turn the other wheel a little at a time until it just pops off. Don’t force it, keep turning the other wheel a little at a time until it comes off there is a C-clip that needs to slip down so the shaft slides out.

Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 4 bolts 14mm to the car.

This part you’ll need a jack to support the engine and lower it a little to slide out the tranny (only one engine mount will be attached) don’t drop it to low. Also, I used a jack stand as add comfort, I placed it an inch lower (just in case)

First replace the strut crossmember brace, then tie off one end of the cargo strap to it and wrap it around the bell housing through the engine mount brackets and hook or tie off ( leave slack to lower the engine two to three inches) Then place the jack under the oil pan closet to the bell housing, I used the first rib line. Don’t place it under the lowest widest part of the oil pan, that is where the oil pick up is and you don’t want to damage it. Depending on how high your jack goes, up I used a 4×4 the same length as my jack, my jack is small 2 ton. Jack up the engine just to take the load off the mount.
Remove the engine mount nut and bolt 17mm, then the 3 bolts 14mm to the tranny

The arrow pointing to the left it where I place my flat head screw driver to pry the bell housing a little.

At this point slide under the car and slide the tranny to the wheel side. All its wight will be supported by the cargo strap. FYI the tranny weighs around 65 or 70 lbs. not to heavy

Go back up and lower the tranny using the strap to the ground, slide it out.

Putting it back

Slide the tranny back under the car wrap one of the cargo straps back around the bell housing through engine mount brackets over the strut crossbrace like before.

New part: next place the ratcheting cargo strap around the small end of the tranny. You want to angle the transmission up into place parallel to the engine. You want to zig zag the straps up.

Rotate the tranny in the straps to align the tranny up. I was turning the tranny counter clockwise a few times when I was ratcheting it up.

When you have the tranny line up with the straps slide back under the car and push the tranny up and towards the engine. If its aligned up it will slide into place fairly easy. When you feel the drive shaft slide into the clutch your all most home. Make sure the bolt holes line up and the two pins and it should pop into place. I hand tightened the bolt just under the “pin” next to the header and the lower bolt closer to the firewall, then snug them down. Then put in the top two bolts and work your way around. Do the starter bolts after the Driver side tranny mount is installed.

At this point you should have 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine. Two large 17mm bolts on top two 14mm on the bottom and one 14mm bolt by the header. reattach the driver top engine mount bracket 3 12mm or 14mm bolts to the tranny then jack the engine/tranny up so you can slide the thru bolt to hold the tranny and engine mount together. The jack under the engine can come out the engine is supported by the two mounts. Then do everything in reverse and don’t forget to fill with gear oil.

Best of all we can use this cap (12mm bolt) at the top of the transmittion to fill with oil (no mess), unbolt and turn, its held in with a gasket

The final step filling with a funnel.

** IF YOU DON”T GET THE PINS TO LINE UP WITH THE BOLT HOLES SOMETHING IS MISS ALIGNED.** most likely the clutch is not centered after a clutch change. Don’t force the tranny in, just lower and check the clutch by loosing a few bolts on the housing and recenter the clutch and tighten it back to spec

Automatic transmission to manual transmission (1985 -86 MkI)

Extra tools I had to buy in addition to my normal hand tools:
Toyota Repair Manual or Haynes manual
10 mm deep socket
12 mm deep socket
14 mm deep socket
30 mm socket ½-inch drive (for axle nuts)
10 mm and 12 mm hydraulic nut wrenches
Drill bit (5/16)
A second hydraulic jack

PARTS I REMOVED FROM THE PARTS CAR Two 1985s, and one 1987) :
1. 5-speed transmission (which includes the shift lever on the transmission [selecting bell crank assembly: #3590F & control shift lever: # 33527] and reverse switch: # 84210) (Note: Use a transmission from an 85 or 86 if you have a 85 or 86 MR2. Sometime in 1987 they changed the transmission and I think the mounting point for the rear transmission mount may have changed.). Also need clutch release fork: #31240, clutch release bearing assembly: #31230, release fork ball: # 31236, and clutch release fork boot: # 31126.

17. ECU from the same year M/T car (1985 and 1986 are the same. I kept getting error codes when I used an ECU from a 1987 MKI.) NOTE: I have been informed that the A/T ECU will work with the manual transmission without any problems

NEW PARTS I BOUGHT:
1. Clutch pressure plate
2. Clutch disc
3. Throwout bearing
4. Transmission fluid
5. Hydraulic brake fluid
6. Electrical connectors
7. Cotter pins for the drive shafts
8. Rear transmission rubber isolator (Good time to inspect/replace all isolators for wear/tears)

parts and tools:
vice grips
12mm flare nut wrench
14, 12 & 10 mm socket and ratchet
hammer and flat head screwdriver

all other tools to remove transmission

new manual transmission
shifter cables
master and slave cylindars
clutch hard lines and soft line
clutch hard line connector
brake and transmission fluid
entire shifter assembly
grease
brake pedal from manual transmission mr2
clutch pedal and assembly

start off by removing the center console:

there are some electrical plugs to remove, and you must remove the bolts holding the entire shifting assembly onto the car. You can just remove everything and disconnect the cable. I didn’t know this at first, and since i didn’t intend on keeping any of the pieces I just broke everything and then figured it out you may need to keep the small black computer attached to the shift assembly. I have heard that if you just do a straight manual conversion that you need it to start the car, and the automatic shifter needs to be in park when you remove it. otherwise the car may not start. I believe you also need to plug that computer back in when you’re done. I did not need that computer, probably because i put in the gen 3 with the new harness designed for a manual. after that disconnect the cable from the transmission.

remove the transmission from the car. ( I took the whole engine out ).

remove the gas tank. ( this I needed to do anyway, and would not have otherwise known where to route the cables).

Install your new master cylindar in the frunk. it bolts directly to the clutch pedal you must also install now. there is a dust cover over the hole. push it out from the passenger compartment. place a light on the floor of the passenger compartment facing forward. this allows you to see where to mount the master cylindar. you need to install both pieces at the same time, and it is easiest with two people, although this is the hardest part of the swap IMO. you may notice there is a sensor on the pedal assembly. You will not have anything to plug there so don’t worry about it. generally you would need to depress the clutch pedal to start the car, but I do not need to. I thus assume that the ecu defaults to allowing you to start the car if the sensor bugs out. Its a good thing toyota did that . you also need to install a new brake pedal because the manual car uses a smaller pedal so there is room for the clutch pedal.

now, you may want to rebuild your shifter assembly.

It just takes some time and a little work you may need to get physical to get the shifter out of the bushing. I just hit it against a piece of steel until it came out (probably not the best idea, but it worked.) remove all bolts and retainers and washers, and just get the whole thing into as many peices as you can (remembering where everything goes of course ) now take a look at everything, isn’t that dirty!

clean everything well, and put fresh grease on the bushings. I took this time to install a TRD short shifter

Put it in the car!!! it bolts right in.

route your shifter cables through the rear firewall where your old one went. you can either customise that rubber seal to fit two cables, or get a new one.

see how the center console fits:

if you are just doing the manual conversion, plug that little black computer back in before you install the center console.

route your clutch lines. there is a short one from the master cylindar, and a longer one that attaches via connector to the short one. Use a flare nut wrench to connect them. size 12mm I believe for all connectors on the clutch lines. that is the only connector you need to buy. I got all my lines from Toyota. the long line follows the brake line perfectly, they even left dual hose brackets for you! Just unbolt them one by one and put them back on with both the clutch and brake lines in them. easy!

make sure your bleeder valve works for your slave cylindar BEFORE you put your transmission back in. its in a really bad place to replace if you break it. now put your transmission back in the car. fill it with fluid. hook up the flexible hose to the hard line at the front of the engine bay with a flare nut wrench (12mm). now you just need to bleed the system and you should be good to take it for a test drive. it took me an entire hour of bleeding for the pedal to get pressure, so don’t give up! Also, make sure you don’t let the master cylindar run out of fluid while bleeding. otherwise you get to start all over again!

Enjoy!!!

00-05 Celica GT & MR2 Spyder – 5 speed – C56
1- 3.17
2- 1.90
3- 1.39
4- 1.03
5- 0.82
R- 3.25
Final Drive- 4.312

Celica GTS & Lotus Elise 2ZZ – C60
1- 3.166
2- 2.050
3- 1.481
4- 1.166
5- 0.916
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

MR2 Spyder 6 Speed Sequential 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.392
4- 1.031
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

07 Corolla 6-Speed *with Puller Reverse*- C66
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

99+ Corolla (NOT FX) – 5 speed – C59
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.885
5- 0.725
Final Drive- 3.914

Euro Spec Transmissions

00-02 MR2 Spyder 5-Speed 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.914

03+ MR2 Spyder 6-Speed 1ZZ- C?
1- 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.914

2003 Avensis 1ZZ-FE – C250
1- 3.545
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 1.031
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 3.941

2003 Avensis 3ZZ-FE – C50
1- 3.545
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 0.969
5- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.312

2003 Celica 1ZZ-FE- C60-2
1 3.166
2- 1.904
3- 1.310
4- 1.031
5- 0.864
6- 0.725
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.312

99+ Corolla (NOT FX) – 5 speed – C59
1- 3.166
2- 2.050
3- 1.481
4- 1.166
5- 0.916
6- 0.815
R- 3.250
Final Drive- 4.529

1. Mounting Points- All 3 transaxle mounts can be used from the C-52. Some fab work is necessary for the passenger motor mount.

2. Evap/Fuel system – make returnless, somewhat extensive
*check the other board for write-up with pics on making a return system returnless*

3. Slave cylinder – minor requires 3/16 female to male M12 coupling (brake fitting) From the firewall chassis fitting to 3/16″ aluminum brake line. Use tube bender to make custom bends. Attach to the C-60′s slave.

4. Header – reweld flange or contact David Lea (LittleRocket) who sells Brad Bedell’s header. I custom frabricated my own B-Pipe. Bedell may eventually have a B-Pipe available.

5. Axles – 91+ MR2 N/A non-ABS

6. Power Steering Pump removed – 1ZZ Idler pulley PN:13570-22010

7. Coolant/Heater hose – custom setup, many ways to do this.

8. Clutch selector cable bracket – Moddified C-52 bracket to sit higher on the C-60

9. Transaxle Mod – Note: I used a transaxle from a JDM Fielder which is like that of the Matrix/Vibe. I had to reverse the select lever to exit the front of the housing. Using the Celica version does not require this mod. PapoJ rotated the selector lever 180* to match the cables, but used a C-52 bellhousing. This allowed for him to use the C-52 cable bracket in the factory location. I modified my C-52 bracket to sit higher like it did on the original transaxle. All internal springs, clips, select levers, etc. were swapped from the Fielder’s select lever shaft to the Celica’s version select lever shaft.

Celica select lever shaft. PN: 33261-20080

9. Dipstick and Tube – MRS 1ZZ
- some minor tweaking was required to get it to fit.
Dipstick PN: 15301-22040
Guide(tube) PN: 11452-22040

10. Fuel Line – filter to fuel rail. I cut banjo fitting from the fuel line of the 4AGE where it mates to the filter and the quick-connect from the 2ZZ fuel line where it attaches to the fuel rail. These fittings were already barbed and inserted into 5/15″ fuel injection hose. *Dont Use Fuel/Evap Hose* Its not rated for the higher PSI. Hose clamps should be used as well. 1 hose to connect the 4AGE filter to the 2ZZ rail.

I still have my notes and the JDM Pinouts(wiring diagram), Connector Chart and Fuse/Relay Box for the early version of the Fielder/RunX/Alan in PDF format. Extensive…

This is how I have wired mine thus far.

I used the molex(N1) in the trunk and M1 and M2. I picked up mating connectors from the salvage yard. These were mated to coresponding wires of 2 of the ECU connectors, engine harness connectors and the added fuse box.

I used the fuse box from the Fielder to incorperate other fuses and relays. One of the relays was made the C/Open and also used the EFI relay and fuse for the EFI system. Unused fuses, relays and associated wiring were scrapped.

I basically used the MR2′s fusebox to run some of the components intended. The Fielder’s box was used to supply power to parts of the system I didnt think I could reconfigure. I was basicly trying to wire the 2ZZ as the engine would have originally been wired, basicly for OBD2 purposes.

The two systems are wired differently and being that I am no expert tried to do this in the most simple fashion for my understanding. The principles between the two systems are similar, but routing is different.

On a cpl of other notes, this being an OBD2 system, it only has one O2 sensor. I found this suprising, but I guess there are different regulations in Japan.

The Celica’s pinout indicates 2 O2′s where this system only has wiring for 1, which splices into the OBD2 port. I also have the Fielder’s exhaust and only 1 4-wire O2 sensor came with it.

The OBD2 port will be in my trunk as opposed to under the dash.

The only thing I havent figured out how to wire up are my oil sending wire, water temp wire and the VSV for the evap. (4age sending unit tee’d into the oil pressure selinoid for VVTL-i. Coolant temp sending unit yet to be installed. I have thought about the blocks drain-cock, but unsure.) I have one plug in the new system I dont have all the pinouts for and Im sure it mates to the oil and water. (I Found this to be incorrect. This connector had wires for the charging system) Im also under the impression that the Celi evap I purchased may be different than that of the JDM version as this schematic doesnt cover that VSV. The Celi’s did cover the wiring for it. This is something Ill have to work around or reconfigure once Im up and running.

Brief summery…

I had a hesitation issue with cam-changeover shortly after the swap. I had thought it was a fuel issue, but wasnt sure. Problem seemed to self correct as the seasons changed and temp dropped. On cooler days, changeover was great, no problems. Warmer (humid) weather and it was back…????

These results were on a Dynojet.

Mods:
-CAI
-Brad Bedell header
-My custom 2-1 collector B-Pipe
-Factory Cat with CherryBomb “turbo style” muffler
-B-pipe Collector merges to a 2.5″ into the cat and 2″ from cat exit back

All are SAE: 1.00 corrected, Max HP @ 7400, Max TQ @ 6800

Pull 1 – 158.64 HP 6:19pm
116.07 ft/lb
63.55 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 2 – 158.29 HP 6:22pm
114.31 ft/lb
63.42 deg.
46% Humidity

Pull 3 – 161.35 HP 6:44pm
117.13 ft/lb
64.72 deg.
46% Humidity

I had originally thought the factory pump may have been limiting the fuel. Not the case… I’m running FAT!!! In all of the runs I was rich, down about 9 something.

The difference on the last run was the motor cooled a bit and we ran a fan for the radiator. It appears the fan also helped with the rich condition. The cooler air may have helped the air/fuel because on the last run I saw a low of about 10.5.

Im thinking if I can get my air/fuel into the 13.5-14.5 area I should be putting down about 169-173 HP. Time to fix some A/F ratios.

Im not sure if its the 4age’s fuel pump combined with the 2ZZ’s pressure regulator making for the wrong combo of parts. Should try the other pump. Or if its the cold air intake that the computer is over compensating for. It seems as if it hesitates more on hot days and not at all on the cooler days.

Im thinking this could also be due in part to a faulty O2 sensor. The one that came with 2ZZ’s downpipe was slightly damaged, though I still used it. It could be that the O2 isnt properly reading the signal.

**It is my understanding that the O2 only monitors in closed loop. I also understand that when under W.O.T. the system goes into open loop, at which time the computer just dumps fuel. …so this may not be my issue. I have considered using an Apex’i VAFC-II piggy-back to help lean it out. Some ppl say that the piggy-back will be over ridden by the factory ECU. I understand this as true, when in the closed loop. But, when under open throttle, your in open loop… At this time the piggy-back will kick in and run your engine at the parameters which you have set. Now some of this is just my theory, but really would like to try and correctly resolve the issue before going piggy-back.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2255550

And the one just to the left of it:

These two bushings are metal sleeves inside rubber washers inside the loops of the shifter-cable ends. When you shift, the pin that runs through the metal sleeve compresses the rubber that surrounds it, introducing a softness to the shifting process. Why did Toyota do this? One theory (posted at newcelica.org) is that the rubber bushings reduce potential vibration in the stick. It’s all part of the general automotive conspiracy to insulate the driver from the terrors of “road feel.” Well, we’re gonna correct that right now.

Here’s the kit:

Get it here: http://www.speed-source.net/
Or here: http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_inf…?products_id=78

A page of instructions comes with the bushings. None of the links to the speedsource online instructions work – they all deliver a “404.” So we’ll follow the paper directions. First, use pliers to remove the cotter pin on the upper (right) bushing:

Next, you remove a metal washer on top of the bushing, then you’re supposed to push at the bushing with the end of a screwdriver and it “should just pop out.” Well it doesn’t. You can lean on that sucker all day long and it’s going nowhere. I considered drilling it out, cutting it out with an Xacto knife, all kinds of stuff that would lead to a trip to the ER. Finally, I found a way to get leverage:

In the pic, you’ll see that I threaded a nut and washer combo on the end of a carriage bolt, then slipped that through the inner sleeve of the OEM bushing. By grabbing the end of the bolt with pliers, you can twist the bushing out just like popping a beer cap. Comes out like buddah. This is the trick I wanted to share with you.

Now clean the shifter bracket post, sand it lightly, grease it, and affix the brass insert. The instructions say to fit the insert to the end of the cable and clamp it in place with the e-clip. Don’t. Instead, affix the metal bushing to the post, then slip the cable bracket end over the bushing. And now lock it in place with the e-clip. This is much easier. The final result looks like this:

Once you’ve done the right (upper) bushing, the left (lower) bushing is easy to swap. The metal inserts are different, and the one for the lower arm is marked “L,” which conveniently is the same as the “L” in left.

Use heavy gloves or the bloody knuckles are on you.

Driving impressions
Aww yeah. More “snick-snick” action. Not quite the feel of a British gearbox, but this is as close as you’re gonna get it. Surprisingly, the shifting is not only more notchy, but it’s smoother too. Your 0 – 60 times may improve because the gears shift more cleanly and accurately. It’s like before they were approximating the target and now they hit it dead on, every time (2ZZ guys: this may be a defense against YAMS). I don’t know about you, but when I shift, I want to be a pro hitman putting the crosshairs on the target. Slam that stick, you’re in gear. This mod totally rocks.

Update: No apparent increase in stick vibration – the OEM bushings serve no purpose except adding play where you don’t want it.

Things to remember:
Cap off coolent hoses
Protect fuel lines from contaminants and dont loose the banjo bolts and crush washers.
DONT CUT your wire harness, if your using a stock ECU you will be grafting the old MR2 harness into your V6 harness.

Keep the stock starter relay, you may remove the fan control and the stock ECU

The following is exactly the same for 3s or 5s swaps.

When your engine arrives check it over for sludge. Keep in mind some of the V6′es have been in grandmas car and may not have seen much attention.

This motor is a 5VZ but the swap is nearly identical to all other swaps. Notice the complete lack of motor mount on the front of the engine.

This is the 3S flywheel sitting on the 5VZ crank. I suggest replacing the 5VZ flywheel with a 1MZ wheel rather than modifying the 3s wheel.

The 3S-GTE pully fits right onto the 5VZ crank, the 5S pully should too. Remember to RE-mark the 4cly crank pully, the timing marks are in a different location than on the v6

You can not use the 5VZ spacer plate because the starter is on the opposite side. You will need to “modify” the 3S or 5S plate.

1MZ flywheel with MR2 TURBO pressure plate and disk

Here you can see an issue with the axel from the turbo transmission and the 5VZ block. There is no mount location for the axel holder. You will need to make an adapter that will bolt into the motor mount location.

Yes you CAN drop the motor and transaxel in from the top, by yourself I would say even the 4.0 v6 should fit through the top.

Here you can see a prototype adapter for the turbo axel. This should give you a good idea of how everything could bolt up without needing to machine the axel .

This is the coolant outlet on the 5VZ. Since its from a truck it faces the wrong way and needs to be cut and reshaped. I used an angle grinder, torch and bigass hammer. EDIT: the plastic 3VZ-FE coolant outlet bolts up and requires no moddification

 Here is the Cummings turbo coolant F pipe that works perfectly as a coolant fill pipe and heater core hose.

Sorry these are blurry but it serves as a warning to everyone planning a swap. You should get your ECU, harness and, engine from the same year. Toyota was nice enough to move some pins around between 96 and 98 so I had to MAKE my own ECU connector with DB25 computer pins and hot glue. Can you say “GHETTO” I think I can

You can swap all the mount plates from your 5s ECU or 3s to the OBDII ecu and it will mount in the stock location. I have an intercooler pipe running through there so I mounted it on the trunk floor.

Good luck.

Jim

[AndrewMcG]

I thought I would add a couple picks to this thread since I have yet to see any real good pictures of Jim’s motor mount actually mounted on the engine. I had a hard time picturing it until I had one in my hand so I hope this helps somebody.

1992-1996: 1MZ-FE
Compatible, but not recommended.
Early 90′s 3vz is proven to work also*

Source Cars:
Avalon
Solara
Lexus ES300
Camry

What to Buy / Get with Engine:
“remember to get a 97+ manual motor w/ ecu or you will have drama”

– Engine Long Block -dugh
– Transmission (97+ recommended, not required for Turbo owners)
– AC Compressor
–Alternator*
– AC Lines to compressor (cut)
– Alternator
– Engine Mounts
– Intake Tube w/ top of Airbox (ensure sensors are there)
– ECU
– ECU Harness (uncut)
– Dash Plugs that go to ECU
– Tachometer from 97+ 1MZ-FE Car (only if you started with a NA tach
– Fuel Rails (94-95 1MZ-FE with return system)*optional
– 94+ V6 Intermediate Shaft (with 6 bolts on CV joint) *must be modified
Credits -derek2000GT

Weight / Space Issues: Quick Read
There aren’t really any weight issues when using a 1MZ-FE engine, in fact the stock engine is about 30lbs. lighter than a 3S-GTE. So don’t worry about upsetting your balance.

Throwing a Supercharger/Turbo system on will add a few more pounds though, but it is definitely not an overbearing monster. (Credits: derek2000GT)

There is also the issue of space, which is another thing not to be worried about. The 1MZ-FE fits easily into the engine bay, and actually increases the space available on the passenger side for whatever performance part you’d like to stuff there. (Credits: Turbo Magazine, January 2003)

Engine Mounts: General
Someone should definitely post some blueprints here.

“In total there are 5 possible mounts–3 for the tranny and 2 for the engine (anterior and posterior). The passenger side 3S-GTE/5S-FE engine mount must be abandoned if you anticipate putting a supercharger on (and who doesn’t).” -chall

I have built two motor mounts that use the pass side mount. Complete fabrication of all mounts is not necessary but recommended if you want a mount to absorb any engine noise.

Fuel Return: Adapting Properly
The MR2 comes stock with a fuel return system, which must be addressed by either installing the pump from the source car into the gas tank, tapping the fuel rail to accomodate the return line, or obtaining a fuel rail from a 3VZ-FE which is a direct fit.

3VZ-FE Option
“This is old news to Camry guys but a 3VZ-FE return fuel rail system will bolt right on to 1MZ-FE. this set up gives you the regulator, lines etc.. just bolt on. you can probably get one from junk /core motor at a yard for cheap. …if you have a turbo and still have fuel line it will bolt right up. otherwise (non-Turbo owners) you will have to have new hose crimped on. The rails from a 94-96 1MZ-FE will have full return style system and your MR2 return line plugs right in.

…if you are a little unsure about tapping stock 1MZ-FE rail i would highly reccommend the 3VZ-FE rail install…save time and will be 100% OEM.” -derek2000GT

Tapping the Rail Option
“The fuel rails are fine if you do not want a return system, but you will have to have a fuel pump with a FPR or an in tank FPR like a Camry, as the 3S-GTE has an FPR on the fuel rail in the return system. I have an adjustable FPR (AEM) on one of my fuel rails for when I go to larger injectors. I bored out the end of the stock rails, threaded them on the outside, and connected them with NPT fittings to the MR2 system.” -chall

I have used the earlier fuel rails and also welded -6 lines with an adjustable regulator for my two cars.

Tachometer: Get it Working
“You will need to buy a tach from a 97+ 1MZ-FE equipped car. (AVALON, CAMRY, SOLARA, SEINNA, ES300) The tachs are the same on all models and will bolt right into cluster w/ no mods at all.” -derek2000GT

“It is almost scary how plug and play most Toyota parts are, at least in this swap. The tach looks virtually identical to the stock MR2 tach (the mechanical part that attaches to the back of the face). …we found that the tach slips right in and, thud, no tach adaptor needed.” -chall

“You will need the tach overlay for an NA MKII MR2. It has a 180 deg sweep with a 6300 redline. As oppesed to a 180 deg sweep 7000 redline/ 7250 revlimit Turbo gauge. Without it your tach will be completely inaccurate. It fits and has the same font/ look as other MR2 gauges.” -Luke

I have also used a 1k ohm resistor and diode hooked to two of the negative sides of the coils and used the stock tach. If I’ve not updated the link, I will shortly.

BUT:
“The block-transmission bolt patterns on the 5S-FE, 3S-GTE, and the 1MZ-FE are the same. Any transmission that works with one engine should work with any of them.” -chall
(This includes manual transmissions)

Some Info About VVT-I
VVT-I Engines availble only in automatic, until 2003. (Manual Tranny bolts on though)
Wiring / ECU issues will need to be addressed, due to automatic transmission errors
TRD is developing piggyback VVT-I ECU, available 2003

A piggyback VVT-I controller is neccessary to properly run. (Wolf EMS: http://www.wolfems.com.au) -derek2000GT

Driveshafts: Adaption and Conversion
“The V6 intermediate shaft (A) bolt right to MR2 CV joint on passenger side. ….Use a V6 intermediate shaft that has 6 bolts on CV joint which is same a MR2 so you can bolt to outer MR2 axle” -derek2000GT

The 93+ Turbo drivers side driveshafts should fit properly, without any adjustments.

*EDIT*

Please see the FAQ on this, you will have to machine a new C-clip for the driveshaft to work. No one has successfully found a shaft that will correctly fit the V6 mount and MR2 tranny. Someone please update me once you find the correct part. (I want specific model and year info along with a quick photo if possible)

Radiator hoses I used
(1)71704 Hose to connect to the factory pipe in the engine bay, left side.
(2) 80413 Heater hoses 90 degree bend on the end.

These hoses work real well. I had to cut them to fit,but have the correct bends and are reasonably priced.

The right side hose will be a little harder, but consists of cutting the pipe under the car, rotating the bend roughly 90 degrees, and routing the hose up the firewall just on the outside of the Belt. I will post pics of this when I’m finished later this week.

Exhaust manifolds will need to be modified, see SCC’s how to install a V6 for the most simple solution.

**Pete94t**

IF you don’t want cruise, you can re-route the main line under the car to the driver’s side and it’s the perfect length to the throttle body, with no junction boxes the pedal feel is better.

**Edit**

This works well, I have this done on my Yellow 91.

**Chall**
Technically speaking, the solara/camry transmission is the E351, not the E153, and I think this denotes the difference in drive gear ratios and final drive. Also, the synchros are much better than in the ’91-’93 turbo transmission. If you have the turbo transmission it will work, but you run out of first gear more quickly. Also, you can make the diode change that Brad discovered but you are going to have to use an electronic speedo with the solara tranny and so you might as well pick up a guage cluster and use both the speedo and the tach for your swap. this lets you get rid of the speedo cable, which removes one of the major hassles of taking the MR2 guage cluster out. Of course, you will need the linkage from an MR2 transmission and also need to drill a hole to use this linkage on the solara tranny–easy to do.

The half shafts are turbo on the driver’s side, and solara on the passenger side only because there is a 1/8″ or 3mm*** difference in the carrier bearing position. Turbo shafts will fit nicely in the solara transmission. I had the bearing ring machined so that I could use the turbo passenger side shaft. It is impossible to combine the two shafts to make one as the type of CV joint on the solara shaft is enclosed and the diameter of the shaft in the CV joint is smaller.

Personally, I think that the passenger side mount for the engine should be abandoned altogether because you cannont add the supercharger and you will definitely want to add the supercharger. Front and rear engine mounts are not hard to fabricate and I have autocad diagrams of one design, but not the only design by any means.

–I have lowered my compression ratio by using 8.5:1 JE pistons and Eagle 22R rods but the rods take machining to thin them for the 1MZ (by .135 per side) and they are about .012 different in their C-C. But you can get them on Ebay and they are an initial $350 investment plus whatever it costs in your area to machine them. When and if you order pistons, let them know so that you can get pistons with the piston pin positon correct.

–I would use the 1MZ alternator. What Luke and I did was to attach the wires to the alternator using simple electrical connections and pouring epoxy around the connections so that now we have an alternator that has the long wires attached.

Claire

*** Edit by Brad, Original was 1cm

**Chall**
If I am understanding correctly, you are asking whether the turbo transmission without LSD uses the same axles as the LSD E153 and the Solara 351. I put a Toyota MR2 LSD into a Camry 5 speed (year 2000) and it uses the MR2 axles that I had machined to move the carrier bearing retainer groove. Of course, the differential defines which axles are used in these transaxles, so using an MR2 LSD (which fits exactly) guarantees that the turbo axles will work.

I don’t have succesful experience with mixing axles. I tried it but perhaps I used a too new axle to try to change the intermediate shaft, as the newer axles from the Solara/Camry are entirely different from the ’90/’95 US MR2 axles. It cost me $50 to have the turbo axle machined, and I thing that was kind of a rip-off.

Here is what I think about the swap:

–Not much needs to be done to the 1MZ-FE itself unless you are going to more than 4 PSI of boost. Derek has found that the return fuel system from other engines works well, or you can simply drill and tap both ends of the fuel rail and make a U-shape out of it to make a return system.

–You can use the stock Solara/Camry ECU, auto or manual, with the wiring diagrams that Luke worked out.

–I would abandon the passenger mount and make front and rear engine mounts for the 1MZ-FE so that you can supercharge later.

–I would abandon the turbo/NA water system after the main pipes beneath the gas tank, and connect more directly with a couple of pipe bends.

–I would get rid of the brake booster line across the firewall.

–I would move the oil filter with a remote kit.

–I would have the passenger axle machined.

–If you want A/C, have the MR2 lines tig welded to the 1MZ-FE lines. There may be much better solutions; I don’t know.

–You can direct connect the cruise control to the throttle and the throttle body very simply, but you have to move the throttle cable to the drivers’ side.

–I prefer the ratios of the Camry/Solara transmission E351 over those of the MR2 E153.

Overall, this is a simple process and should not take long if you prepare for it.

**SBCelicaGT**

1MZFE engine debuted in 1992. in 1997 it was updated with among other small changes, a returnless fuel system. later on it had VVTi as an option. all 3 generations of engine are aluminum. the 92-96 return fuel rails will bolt to the gen2 engines. or you can make your own returnless fuel system and it doesnt require any drilling or tapping.

axles: all the solara/avalon/sienna/ etc. axles I have seen arent rebuildable. I.E. they dont have the bolts in the middle to attach the inner and outer sections.

the mr2 turbo inner axles work just fine with the Solara tranny. the only mod you need to do is to slot the carrier bearing mount ever so slightly as it will be off by a few millimeters. For the celicas, you can then bolt outer alltrac axles to the inner turbo axles. for you mr2 guys, you can just use the whole turbo axles.

ecu: auto tranny ecu will work but you will have ECU codes till you find a way to fool the ECU into thinking there is an A/T in your engine bay by way of wiring resistors to the ends of the solonoid plug. Easy fix.

Eagle rods for the 22R will work. You will need to do the following:

Which fluid?

I have tried Mobil One, Redline MTL, and Redline MT-90, and have the best results with MT-90.  The difference, in my case, was much easier shifting, no more grinding on 3rd gear up-shifts, and easier downshifts into 1st gear.  I would have to say that the improvement in shifter feel was significant when using MT-90.

Draining

The first step is to remove the fill plug.  While this may sound strange, it is best to make sure it can be removed before draining the transaxle of fluid.  I find it easiest to jack up the car and remove the driver’s side rear tire.  This makes access to the plugs much easier.   
Tools used – 24mm socket.

Filler Plug:

Now remove the drain plug.
Another view:

Make sure the car is level.  If you have removed a wheel to gain access to the filler and drain plugs, just adjust the jack so that the car is level.  Fluid draining:

Once the fluid is drained, replace the drain plug.  To fill the transaxle, I use a funnel, a tube (from Home Depot) and some duck tape.

Run the tube through the engine compartment and down into the filler plug.  Then place some sort of oil pan / bucket under the filler plug to collect any excess transaxle fluid.  You want to fill the transaxle until fluid starts to run out of the fill plug.  Make sure the car is level when filling – it usually takes 4 quarts, sometimes a touch more.
Tube inserted into fill plug:

Then just start adding fluid to the funnel.  If it is particularly cold when performing the fluid change, it can help to warm up the gear oil by bringing it inside, or even putting it in an oven at very low heat.  Wives love it when you do that!  This will help it pour and drain into the filler more quickly.  It does take time.

Allow any excess fluid to drain from the filler plug, replace the filler plug, and your done!  I usually replace the fluid once per year, and have been using Redline MT-90 for about 6 years now.

Fuel line

Contrary to what was previously on this page, the 16V fuel line fits fine with no modifications (both SC & NA). I mistakenly used the 20V line which needed to be extended. Sorry about that.
 

Throttle Cable

For neatness this needs to be extended a couple feet. If not, the cable will have to drape over the engine. I combined the MR2 cable with that of the 20V.

Here’s the steps and pics:

- Cut the ends of each off with pliers, being careful not to cut the actual cable.
- Strip the protective rubber about 1/2″ back exposing the metal structure of the cable housing.
- Measure/mark the length of cable needed for when your foot is off the gas pedal & when it’s all the way down. Do the same on the extension end, this time using the actual throttle assembly. If you need to expose more cable on either side, cut off more of the housing.
- Once you get the lengths right, using a 1/16″ ferrule (you may need to enlarge the hole to allow both cables to fit), crimp the 2 cables together.
- Using some 5/16″ ID fuel hose I had sitting around, that acts as a protective covering for the exposed cable/ferrule. Make sure the crimped ferrule can slide through it easy enough.
- Use some heat shrink tubing on the ends of the joint to keep moisture & dirt out.
- Then some clamps to hold the hose onto the metal housing

Alternator Bracket

The 20V has a huge alternator bracket with an idler pulley so that the belt doesn’t interfere with the chassis. You can reuse the 16V NA bracket on the 20V block. However, on the blacktop you will need to cut away some material to clear the hydraulic timing belt tensioner.

Before:

After:

Oil Pressure Sender

Use the 16V oil pressure sensor, as the Trueno/Levins just have an idiot light instead of a gauge.

Clutch/Flywheel Info

If you are replacing the clutch or flywheel make sure to get one for a C series transmission. The MR2 SC clutch/flywheel will NOT fit. The shaft on the C series trannies are smaller than the E series.

Mounting (ECU, MAP, Ignitor/Coil, Coolant Overflow Bottle)

Fab mounts for the ECU in the new driver’s side location.

For the blacktop, mount the MAP sensor at a convenient location near the #1 intake side. I used an existing welded nut on the chassis.

Same goes with the ignitor & coil, but this time near #4. I chose a place on the strut tower. 2 bolts fit perfectly in existing holes. A third hole was drilled and tapped.

Since the filler neck was on the opposite side of the engine bay, I had to use a different location for the overflow bottle. I decided to use a different bottle altogether since mine was weathered pretty bad. Just using a cheapo from Autozone at the moment.

Vaccuum Lines

The 20V has 2 brake booster lines coming off the TBs. Luckily both are on the #1 side of the engine, making it easy to route the hose to the MR2′s single booster line. I used the one that comes of the #4 TB, since the #1′s fitting can be easily removed and a bolt inserted to block it off.

You can also block of a line that was used for the power steering system in the Levin/Trueno. Near the fuel rail by #4 cylinder there should be 3 hoses, each of distinct sizes. It’s the middle sized hose that can be capped.

Crank Pulley

If you have the Silvertop, make sure to use the 16V crank pulley and timing marker. This helps with adjusting the ignition timing. On the blacktop, you can’t use the 16V timing marker since it uses a different tensioner. However, make sure to paint marks along the crank pulley, on all edges. The belt gets in the way of the inside mark making it hard to see.

Decklid Latch

The intake box on the Blacktop interferes with the engine latch. So grind away at the latch until there’s room. I had to bend one side of the latch slightly, as well as remove the bottom bolt hole to make room for the coupling to the air filter.

Axles & Tranny Stiffener

The Levins and Truenos have equal length drive shafts. Unfortunately these shafts are an inch or 2 too long to use in the MR2. The MR2 axles fit fine of course, so it may be possible to Frankenstein something together. The cup of the 20V extension shaft on the passenger side is too large for the MR2′s tulip joints. You may be able to remove the tulip joint from the 20V axle and refit it to the MR2′s axle. I’m not sure. This is something I may try later, as I have a spare driver’s side MR2 axle.

Also, if you use the MR2 axles, the 20V tranny stiffener will not fit. You can either grind away some of the material to make the stiffener fit, or just run without it. To make it fit I believe you need to chop 1 corner off, using one less bolt holding it in place.